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2014 Fazer 1000 Spluttering

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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 26 Aug 2020    Post subject: 2014 Fazer 1000 Spluttering Reply with quote

Got on my bike to go to work this morning. Everything seemed fine at first but 2 miles down the road it started spluttering. Only seems to do it when accelerating gently or cruising at low speed / low revs. Give it half a fistful and she's perfectly happy screaming through the gears as long as you keep the power on. Parked it up at work and idle is rough, jumping about a bit.

Some background... she's not garaged and not covered so is exposed to the elements. Also yesterday I filled up from nearly empty at my local Co-op I always use with the super 97 stuff (not the standard 95, I know there are better quality fuels out there like BP Ultimate and Shell V-Power but I use this garage because it's local and convenient so always insist on getting the expensive stuff), always use this garage for diesel and petrol never had a problem but thought it worth mentioning as I only filled it up from nearly empty and was only 5 miles home from there although all seemed OK on way home after filling up and first 2 miles this morning.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 26 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds exactly like a coil breaking down, running on 3 intermittently, then back on 4 once you give it a bit more power.

Gut says HT lead end/plug cap has some corrosion or split.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 13:53 - 26 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tdibs wrote:
Sounds exactly like a coil breaking down, running on 3 intermittently, then back on 4 once you give it a bit more power.

Gut says HT lead end/plug cap has some corrosion or split.

+1. Your complaint does not sound fuel related. I'd pull the spark plugs and inspect.
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P.
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 26 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just use any old shit fuel, wouldn't bother paying for the better one for a start.

My GSXR felt a bit shitty for a while, spluttering and the like, when was it actually serviced? I changed the plugs, filter and oil and it was back to being perfect again.
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stevo123
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 26 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the contrary to above I would say fuel related. Ignition problems usually show when under load. Poor fueling tends to be in a section of the rev range - in this case low throttle openings. As it has happened suddenly I would be looking for air leaks or a vacuum pipe split/detached. At an outside guess could be water in the fuel given the weather we've had.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 26 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your input guys. Was serviced just very recently with new plugs but the coils and leads were not renewed.

When I started it up at work to come earlier it was idling rough and behaving the same on the way home as it was this morning, until about the last five minutes it seemed to sort itself out. I was going straight to my mechanic to let him have a look so bloody typical it would stop doing it just before it got there. He speculated it might be a bit of water in the fuel as stevo said. I guess keep riding and see if it re-occurs...

Thanks again everyone.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 28 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry guys just revisiting this. Seemed to go away for a while but very much back again today. Mind you it's been over a week since I rode it. Might be my imagination but it seems to behave itself more when it's rode regularly but if getting it out after being stood for a week or so the symptoms present themselves again.

If going down the ignition route, what is recommended? 4 new coils with HT leads? Spark plugs were changed recently. Do these even have HT leads??? I looked on the fowler website https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/6483009/fz1-sa-fazer-5d0f-2012-040-b/electrical-1 seems to be coils listed plus "WIRE, SUB LEAD 2D1-82309-00" would you guys recommend me replacing this part too?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 28 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

"""Some background... she's not garaged and not covered so is exposed to the elements.""" Shocked
You should be hung drawn & quartered Rolling Eyes
Sounds short of fuel when warmed up.
Has the injectors been cleaned and tested along with the fuel supply?
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 00:00 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. It's spluttering on idle tickover and spluttering when pulling away gently, as soon as I give it any sort of power it clears straight up.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:16 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok then it`s short of fuel at low revs.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:09 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tuberculosis wrote:
4 new coils with HT leads? Spark plugs were changed recently. Do these even have HT leads??? I looked on the fowler website https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/6483009/fz1-sa-fazer-5d0f-2012-040-b/electrical-1 seems to be coils listed plus "WIRE, SUB LEAD 2D1-82309-00" would you guys recommend me replacing this part too?


OOh Stick coils - mucho denarii. Shocked Id be inclined t change the plugs again first and check all plug/coil connections while I was at it.

Also since this is an uber modern (by my standards) bike does it not have some kind of OBD facility? e.g. to detect flakey injector or something.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep apologies, coil sticks on the second gen. You can measure the resistance on them with a multi meter to detect if they are out of spec.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/763431/Yamaha-Fz1-N.html?page=428

I would pull the coils and do a VERY careful inspection, the smallest hairline crack can be causing a arc to the head. Also mechanic pulling them off to change plugs lines up with the theory, old rubber that has been sitting in place for years, you try to yank it out, can easily cause damage.

For ex https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHZpTlRVbpc&ab_channel=Quickshift820

Not sure if they are exactly the same as R1 coils, but spares going from 30-50£ a stick on ebay.

I had the same deal on my gen 1 recently, rough idle, would want to stall out at lights, had to give a good amount of throttle to get off the line. Ran perfect on the motorway etc.

Cause was this. Was impossible to spot unless you pulled the rubber to one side https://puu.sh/GxAZg.jpg
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. So difference of opinion here could be fuel, could be ignition :-/

I've searched ebay for an OBD tool but all the ones listed say they only work on 2017 models onwards. Can't find nuffink for my 2014 Fazer. Maybe they didn't start having OBD until 2017???

I'll take it to a bike place that my car mechanic recommended, as the old boy I usually use is a bit old school and not bang up to date with modern stuff (think I've said before he mostly works on Enfields and classics etc.).

Replacing all four coils is a lump on money but I'm happy to spend it if that's what the problem is. Question - if I do replace the coils is it recommended to also change this part at the same time?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ1-2D1-Engine-coil-wiring-loom-harness-2006-to-2012/130404191051?hash=item1e5cb20b4b%3Ag%3AT1oAAOSwezVWvg8V&LH_BIN=1

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/2D1-82309-00
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A100man
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PostPosted: 23:49 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tuberculosis wrote:

Replacing all four coils is a lump on money but I'm happy to spend it if that's what the problem is. Question - if I do replace the coils is it recommended to also change this part at the same time?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ1-2D1-Engine-coil-wiring-loom-harness-2006-to-2012/130404191051?hash=item1e5cb20b4b%3Ag%3AT1oAAOSwezVWvg8V&LH_BIN=1

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/2D1-82309-00


I wouldn't have thought so given it's the low tension side.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 29 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 30 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would only bother replacing all if you are strapped for time, but you only really need to find the one that is faulty.

Basic test to do, start it up from cold, dont rev it, assuming it is poor ignition on one coil and misfiring. Spray water at the header pipes as it idles. It should steam off consistently, if one is noticeably beading water and not instantly steaming off you have found the faulty cylinder.

Can repeat the test a few times to make sure. Heatgun if you have one.

Obviously this has a limited time window before the headers are too hot and they will all look the same.

I would assume it will throw you dash codes rather than OBD port but could be wrong.

Draining the tank fully/running it dry then going on fresh fuel will rule out bad fuel. Also would be able to see if there is water in the fuel. Drain cap could be a place to check there, there is usually a drain line/overflow hose, could be not draining water.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 13 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update - pretty sure this was just moisture getting in the plugs as it's been behaving itself since I've been covering it up Very Happy
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