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UncleFester
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Joined: 30 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: 16:49 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

C_dug sounds like the science museum is too well funded if your offering out repairs of cheap rubbish like this. Abuse of position perhaps.


Calm down dear - for people who do this day in day out it's childs play and probably 10 minutes 'work. What business is it of yours if someone chooses to offer a helping hand in the interests of helping out.

If i can help someone out with something during work time at no cost / detriment to work why would I not? I have and will do again. Sometimes i even help work out in my own time without being officially paid - it's called being flexible - most decent employers are happy to foster that approach.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 18:08 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:

C_dug sounds like the science museum is too well funded if your offering out repairs of cheap rubbish like this. Abuse of position perhaps.


Self righteous twattery on BCF? Surely not... Laughing
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P.
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
C_dug sounds like the science museum is too well funded if your offering out repairs of cheap rubbish like this. Abuse of position perhaps.


Gimp.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
...fuckwitted waffling...

Yet again you prove yourself a spunk trumpet of the highest order.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you get sorted for this?
If not, I dont mind doing them for free if you cover postage.
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
Science

My very first job was restoring old printing machines.
I was very proficient at it and was tasked of restoring an Albion Printing Press for the Science museum. I visited some years later and noticed it was on display(I signed it under the bed in gold paint). A proud moment.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 20:43 - 18 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
C_dug sounds like the science museum is too well funded if your offering out repairs of cheap rubbish like this. Abuse of position perhaps.


Sickpup is a very long standing forum member who regularly offers sound advice to people who ask, so, yes I'd go out of my way to ask a favour of one of my technicians to do it in their own time. I have a very good relationship with the people who work for me, so I have no doubt they'd be willing to help.

Nothing to do with funding, nothing to do with abuse of power.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 03:44 - 19 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Never had those skills? Its not something you just loose. With the right tools it is easy to learn. You have claimed to do repairs for profit in the past, I guess that was somone else doing the work.
The boards look rubbish design, no reason for a low power controller to get that hot or need a thermal fuse. 196c! ! Wasting a lot of power if its on battery.


I'm certain I haven't claimed to do PCB repairs but yes I do basic rewiring and repairs on these heated jackets but don't remember mentioning it. You sure you haven't mixed me up with someone else again?

It's good to know that another one of your imaginary skills is PCB design, perhaps you should design a better board I mean you recognised a low power board when in fact it is rated at about 18amps, it's fused at 15 so I would expect a 20% overhead.

kramdra wrote:
if you dont care about it being original Id just replace the board, china is producing them by the million. Ive got a couple of cheap small PWM button types, which are good just the way it was wired was shite with no strain relief.


It's a 3 zone heat controller which can handle over 15 amps without using heatsinks and has longevity measured in years if not decades, yep some that I have have been in use more than 10 years and you the ultimate cheapskate are suggesting that these button PWMs are suitable swap? Do you ever think before shooting your mouth off?

If it didn't matter if it was original I wouldn't have started this thread.

kramdra wrote:
C_dug sounds like the science museum is too well funded if your offering out repairs of cheap rubbish like this. Abuse of position perhaps.


I've been thinking about this for the last 6 hours and all I can think is can you really be this nasty and spiteful? You are attacking c_dug because he offered to help me and you hate me which let's face it means as much to me as tears in the rain.

I tried to help you with your forks but you lied so much no one could help.
I tried to help you with your engine thread but again you kept telling lies and so got called on them, it was so obvious you were lying it was like listening to a 6 year old.

You really need to grow up and learn to value what skills (if any) other than being a dick that you have and stop being jealous of others. I don't just mean me, you attacked c_dug in this thread for being a good bloke, Paddy in another for knowing more about computers than you and others all the time. You don't do this on mig-welding.co.uk so why do it here?
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 19 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ho hum. Do I just go to the enemy list now so I dont have to see any more drivel?
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Ste
Not Work Safe



Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 19 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Abuse of position perhaps.

srsly?

What have you got against c_dug?
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Pjay
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PostPosted: 17:32 - 19 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
What have you got against c_dug?


He doesn't like his cavalier attitude towards his position.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 10:20 - 23 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sickpup you have mentioned your heated clothing repairs as a sideline many times.

You read too much into my posts. You really spent 6 hours haha, quite a bit longer than I cared to type it. I dont dislike you other than you can be a stubborn git when you are proved wrong, again bringing up the forks and engine threads, which you were anything but helpful.

Attacking c_dug Laughing I realise this is not the place for politics, my opinion museums should not get public cash, or for it to be wasted on Sickpups sideline.

It is a low power board.. Amps doesnt make it high power. It is a simple low quality board with shit thermal design. Omitting a heatsink is cheap, good engineering, but not good quality.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 07:51 - 24 Oct 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Sickpup you have mentioned your heated clothing repairs as a sideline many times.


But never PCB repairs.

kramdra wrote:
You read too much into my posts. You really spent 6 hours haha, quite a bit longer than I cared to type it.


So that's an agreement that you just shoot your mouth off without thinking.

kramdra wrote:
Attacking c_dug Laughing I realise this is not the place for politics, my opinion museums should not get public cash, or for it to be wasted on Sickpups sideline.


Now the embarrassed laugh of someone who realises he has been a bit of a dick.

Now I didn't say these board repairs were for customers, they're not so why are you trying to cover being a dick by claiming they are or is this just a rhetorical question?

kramdra wrote:
It is a low power board.. Amps doesnt make it high power. It is a simple low quality board with shit thermal design. Omitting a heatsink is cheap, good engineering, but not good quality.


But you can't design better and no one else has.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 08 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just been looking closely at the reverse of the circuit board this morning under a loupe and yes it is beyond my skill level and my old eyes, should really get an eye test as haven't had one for 2 years.
I would need a much better than my cheap Clarke's soldering iron as well as a large magnifying lamp which I don't have room for at the moment.

I've had a good look around and a replacement controller is a minimum of £46 and a bit of work on the jacket to make it work. It is also lower rated than the controllers I have so although it will be able to run a jacket and inner soles once you add in the trousers you are pushing the limits, I like having a high head space for surges. A twin channel controller that could run everything runs £69. These prices include a modification circuit.

What I could do is build a two channel controller using 2x12v 15a motor PWM controllers in an aluminium project box. Yes it would be a bit bulky but with remote twist controls it could be hidden on the bike with the pots on the left hand bar or the top yoke. Question is would it have decent reliability or not in the harsh environment of a motorcycle?
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 08 Nov 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never had or played with heated clothing just some heated grips ages ago
so just musing.
I had a quick shufty at the previous pic and saw the
2 main power MOSfets and thermal fuse side of the board,
so can only speak in broad terms.

If I was considering repairs and alternatives, I'd start by
totting up the maximum power usage of all heaters on full whack

We know they're nominally 12v which would actually run closer to 14V
on a running bike so knowing the static resistance of each element would help us
determine power considerations.

IIRC The grips had a static resistance of about 20 ohms each
At 14V this gives us a current of 0.7A and power of 9.8 Watts.
X2 of course so in ballpark figures, I'd want a control circuit capable of easily
handling better than a continuous 2A/20W.

Those MOSfets are probably rated at about 30A each so (on paper) well up to running
a few heaters if fully turned on and heat sinked.
I've made my own flasher units potted inside 35mm film canisters
using a 555 and MOSfet and the MOSfets never got above
a very comfortable/easily touchable temp on a 1 hour soak test with a 3A load @2hz

Of course you dont have to use PWM
My old K series beemers heated grips used a simple resistor to give 3 states.
Off, fully on and partially on using a series resistor of sufficient wattage
to reduce current in the elements.

I've fucked up plenty me and experience has told me to spend time
on considerations and options before firing up the soldering iron
and ask myself questions like:
What's the simplest way do it?
Does it really need to be complicated?
Would a complex system really give tangible benefits over a simpler one?
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The last post was made 3 years, 140 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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