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Shandy
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Dec 2020
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 13 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for the advice, I've got my theory test booked for early jan, then I'll get booked in for conversion. Any idea what to expect? It's 3 hours
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Keithy
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 22 Sep 2020
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 13 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can download a DVSA Theory test app, it’s about a tenner. It’s basically traffic signs, Highway Code and hazard perception. The download has hazard perception examples. As a professional driver it shouldn’t be much of a hassle Thumbs Up
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ThunderGuts
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Joined: 13 Nov 2018
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PostPosted: 09:08 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shandy wrote:
Cheers for the advice, I've got my theory test booked for early jan, then I'll get booked in for conversion. Any idea what to expect? It's 3 hours


Conversion is essentially just getting used to riding a big bike; so it'll start (if it was anything like mine) with riding around the school's car park / training area for a bit to get used to it, then out on the road for a good few hours of riding. Our instructor covered countersteering and a few other bits too and gave us the chance to apply these principles, but I don't know if that's "standard issue". The idea is when you get to the end of the conversion session, you'll be comfortable enough and familiar enough to then start your mod 1 training.
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Shandy
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Dec 2020
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Rob. I'm looking forward to it.
I'm having a few teething troubles here, but it's all good learning, lol. Discovered I have a 'sticky clutch' yesterday, after trying to put her into first, she'd jerk forward and stall. The fifth time it happened, i googled the symptoms and found out about the phenomenon, and that, a rev in neutral, then select first should sort it. It did, but it got me wondering if I'd overfilled the oil, prior to trying to head out. The level on the window was only just above "min" so i topped it up to just below "max". Maybe the old boy I bought it from had kept it low on purpose?
Also when I started the engine and tried to blip the throttle, it cut out - related? Or do you need to let them warn up for a while, before doing anything? It's all new to me.
Also, i ordered a used chrome sissy bar/pannier rack, which arrived today, but the bolts on my bike are about 2 inches wide than the bar... picture attached. Think I need a specific year? I thought all marauder 125s would be the same centres...[img]https://i.ibb.co/yk64nXX/20201214-105620.jpg[/img]
What else? Oh yes, my rear L plate appears to be a watercolour! [img]https://i.ibb.co/F5ygyw4/20201214-105632.jpg[/img]

And .. what's this keyhole? Some sort of isolator? [img]https://i.ibb.co/mqQkSj7/20201214-124152.jpg[/img]
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Ayrton
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Joined: 02 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You usually need to let it warm up a little before touching the throttle or it will stall. it's good to wait a minute anyway so the oil warms up and starts circulating. Usually I just let mine idle while I put my helmet and gloves on.

I think having the oil just below max is fine but I usually like to leave it a bit lower just in case you overfill it. It might be worth changing the oil now though unless you know for sure when it was done last.
That panel with the key hole is probably where the battery lives. Unlock it and see if the panel pulls off.
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ThunderGuts
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Joined: 13 Nov 2018
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PostPosted: 14:46 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure about the sticky clutch issue; use may ease that. Engine oil level is unlikely to be factor that I can think of if it's within the normal range (i.e. above min and below max). Blip the engine - from cold? Presumably a carb'd engine? In which case until it's warmed a bit I wouldn't be surprised; do you use the choke to start it (given it's fairly cold at the moment)?

On the rack, can't tell but is there enough space to get a strip of steel and drill holes for both sets of bolts, then have that bolted to the bike and the rack bolted to the steel strip?

Quite possibly the most appropriate VRM I've ever seen for a learner bike! You may find it'll get an advisory on MOT and a plod having a particularly bad day might pull you on it but unlikely. They're a few quid anyway for a new one.

Keyhole - looks like it's securing that panel - toolkit behind it?
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A100man
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Joined: 19 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sticking clutch is because it's not been used a while not oil level. (although you might want to change the oil soon anyway)

Pannier rack will need some adapter bracketry or a grinder and a welder.

Key-hole could be seat flip release or 'helmet lock or something. Not likely to be an isolator.
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I expect that locked panel reveals the tool kit and main fuses.

Be careful on the oil window. Some bikes you check the level on the side stand but most you need the bike level.
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Polarbear
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Joined: 24 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the arrow not pointing to the screw in cover that I would guess is the swing arm bearing cover?

Edited to add - it isn't an arrow, Shut up John Brick Wall
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Shandy
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Dec 2020
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:


Quite possibly the most appropriate VRM I've ever seen for a learner bike! You may find it'll get an advisory on MOT and a plod having a particularly bad day might pull you on it but unlikely. They're a few quid anyway for a new one.

Keyhole - looks like it's securing that panel - toolkit behind it?


Haha, I know that's what I thought, Rob, CBT...
I think the idea that it releases the seat might be on the money, because when I turned the barrel I heard a clock, which I thought might be an electrical isolator, but it could very well have been a release catch. I'm at work now, but I'll check it out tomorrow.
Re the bracketry - what metal do you think? stainless? Spaced out with stainless washers, or since kind of rubber washer?
Thanks to all, I appreciate you helping out a complete noob to biking.
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ThunderGuts
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Joined: 13 Nov 2018
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it could be a seat release actually.

Stainless has benefits, but it's a ballache to work with. Assuming the load isn't massive (i.e. not filling your panniers with bricks etc.), you could probably work with steel that's 2 or 3mm thick. Wouldn't bother with rubber washers, the key thing is ensuring a space between the bracket and the bike so you don't get scratching, so using sufficient washers to space it out but only as much as you need to. The bigger issue is if there's enough space to fit a bolt head behind the bracket and still slot over the bike.

The other option is to return the rack and find one that fits . . . if it looks faffy to adapt, probably going to be easier!
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Freddyfruitba...
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Joined: 20 May 2016
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 14 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
I expect that locked panel reveals an empty cavity where the tool kit used to be and main fuses.

FTFY Thumbs Up
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DUCAUDI
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 May 2019
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 19 Dec 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome!

That's a pretty bike. Very similar to the Kawasaki Eliminator 125 we bought for my wife, we were considering the Marauder as well as one or two other bikes but the Kwak came up not far away at a reasonable price so opted for that. She's taking her DAS course next week (COVID-19 restrictions permitting).

As others have said it won't take long for the bug to take effect, get your full licence in time for the summer.

Also to reiterate what others have said, it doesn't HAVE to be a cruiser-style in order to have comfortable knees. Many upright nakeds and ADVs should also suit. Maybe even sports tourers.
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