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Stud extractors.

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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Stud extractors. Reply with quote

From a chance remark in another thread.

Has anyone here ever had any success in using a stud extractor on a badly siezed stud (or bolt)? The sort of seizng that results in the bold/stud shearing off?

I have not (but I have seen someone who tried one, and made matters even worse).
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droog
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Re: Stud extractors. Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
From a chance remark in another thread.

Has anyone here ever had any success in using a stud extractor on a badly siezed stud (or bolt)? The sort of seizng that results in the bold/stud shearing off?

I have not (but I have seen someone who tried one, and made matters even worse).


I tried to remove a SS seized/galled, flush sheared bolt stuck in an upper yolk with a stud extractor.

I read all the warnings about how if you get it stuck in there you are in serious trouble because the extractor is too hard to drill out etc - but I had a go anyway and it got stuck.

I expect some people have had success with these things but judging by the forums my experience was not uncommon.

I eventually removed the bolt by placing the upper yoke in a boiling pot of alum - which dissolved the SS bolt - the stud extractor then simply fell out of the now empty bolt hole . . .


Last edited by droog on 14:55 - 18 Jan 2021; edited 1 time in total
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droog
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

p.s.

With the benefit of hindsight I would have not bothered with the stud extractor - instead I would have drilled the bolt out - and if the threads could not be saved then helicoiled it.


Last edited by droog on 14:54 - 18 Jan 2021; edited 1 time in total
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got an impact stud extractor, and yes that worked on one. But it's so powerful, even on the lowest torque setting on my windy gun completely sheared another.

I also tried normal cam style stud extractors and they didn't work.
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droog
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bolt I was describing above was sheared flush with the surface of the yoke which limited my options.

But I have had sheared bolts with 7/8mm of the bolt protruding - in which case I cut a notch in the top of the bolt and got it out using a combination of butane torch heat and an impact driver fitted with a screwdriver/slot type fitting to get the bolt turning and out - plus plenty pf penetrating oil.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't even try them.

I only use extractors on studs that were broken putting them in.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's seized enough to shear off in the first place it's unlikely any mechanical means will shift what's left. Usually there's no substitute for the big guns, drilling / spark erosion etc etc.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on many factors but if you have an extractor then there's no harm in trying.
The broken bit could have failed for reasons that an extractor won't help.
Too many possibilities to list.
I don't bother with extractors if the broken bit can be welded on.
Then I weld a nut onto what's left and remove.
95% of the time that is it.
For the deep rooted bastirts then finding the exact centre and having hard drill bits is the option.

But yes, stud extractors work but there are limits.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 18:53 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those long threaded or spiral tapered stud extractors are the worst thing ever......
almost guaranteed to spread what is left of the broken stud, jamming it in the hole even more and then snap off, leaving a rock hard impossible to drill portion down the centre of the stud.

Methods that work.

Drill hole down centre hammer in tapered square file tang ( does anyone know what these are anymore?) these don't spread the stud so much as the screw in extractors and ... may .... give you something to unscrew against.

Those Lidl/Aldi /Ebay left hand drill type extractors work pretty well actually.

Someone who knows what they are doing to drill down at the tapping size and remove the remaining thread spiral / retap thread.
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Last edited by steve the grease on 19:40 - 18 Jan 2021; edited 1 time in total
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
Drill hole down centre hammer in tapered square file tang ( does anyone know what these are anymore?)

Yes, I know what that is. I can also tell you that the tang is not "file hard". So there.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
steve the grease wrote:
Drill hole down centre hammer in tapered square file tang ( does anyone know what these are anymore?)

Yes, I know what that is. I can also tell you that the tang is not "file hard". So there.


Well we are the lucky ones, there's no such thing as a metalwork room anymore in schools . My nephew who apparently did a degree in mechanical engineering had never touched a lathe ( or probably a file) I made him have a go on mine. 'Oh that's a clever idea' he says. ' you could make allsorts on one of these. '.

Me 'FFS'.

In the background - the sound of Joseph Whitworth turning in his grave.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 18 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mig weld blobs on the end and wind out with mole grips.

It's the only way I've had any luck with. Most often there's no access for drilling - even if there was I wouldn't waste the effort.
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davebike
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I had a few suscesfull goes but badly sized it weld a nut on and even that dos not work all the time so then it down to drill and tap or drill and timesert !
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
Well we are the lucky ones, there's no such thing as a metalwork room anymore in schools . My nephew who apparently did a degree in mechanical engineering had never touched a lathe ( or probably a file) I made him have a go on mine. 'Oh that's a clever idea' he says. ' you could make allsorts on one of these. '.


For what it's worth, this is changing now.

I am involved with one of the biggest college groups in the UK, and part of their engineering program includes a "summer camp" for secondary school kids to experience engineering - they've had school kids on the program who have gone on to study engineering at the college, and then on to apprenticeships with some very well known places.

We take half a dozen or so of them on each year as work experience placements, into a properly old school mechanical engineering workshop, and you would be pleasantly surprised at how well they do.

There is a small glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel!
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:55 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schools don't teach engineering coz there's no engineering in UK.
There was mass engineering in most industrial regions but that's been replaced with.... nothing.

And the HSE requirements to supervise delinquents in a workshop would be exponentially disastrous.
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BenR
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you on about ez outs? They're pretty shit. I have recently invested in one of these though & was suitably impressed. Thumbs Up

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluespot-Impact-Stud-Bolt-Extractor-Removal-Socket-Tool-3-8-Drive-6mm-12mm/233479891657?epid=11037057727&hash=item365c7c6ac9:g:tU0AAOSwHCNeMbmD&redirect=mobile
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use similar to these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Multi-Spline-Screw-Extractor-Set-Broken-Stud-Bolt-Removal-Hex-Head-10pc/312209499393?epid=20017011934&hash=item48b122e501:g:1bIAAOSwP8ld88lv

Easy to use, pilot hole the broken bolt and go up in sizes till you get to the size marked on the smallest suitable extractor then use the extractor in a ratchet. I was taught to use them that way by a HGV mechanic, his reason being if you drill the widest hole possible and use the biggest one possible you end up with the metal of the bolt being so thin the extractor can push it outward against the threads making life harder. From many uses I have only had one fail and that was trying to remove a snapped off mirror bolt from the mount in the switchgear on a 1977 v75a, it was corroded in so solid when I started to turn the extractor the entire metal switchgear started creasing rather than the bolt freeing...... it may have been stuck in there though since the '70's.

The long "EZ out" style extractors I've found are much easier to cock up, the ones above unless you are a total sperg at drilling the pilot hole shouldn't wreck anything or snap off. Worst you can really do is fail, chew up the remains of the bolt and end up having to drill/tap or drill/helicoil.

Total disclosure if I owned a welder I'd do it that way, it's far easier. However as I along with probably most of the population do not own welding gear, extractors are the "get me out of the shit", option.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used easy out type things before and it worked quite well. Best was on some allen bolts because It's very easy to snap one though and then your in a world of mess trying to get it out. I wouldn't bother with them on something really bad like a exhaust.

Welding is my preferred method now. Got 2 exhaust bolts out the other day for a mate and one was barely flush with the hole. Built it up with weld on max setting then welded a washer and socket to it.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 19 Jan 2021    Post subject: Drill Reply with quote

Mig method

Mig method, as in mig welder

So your going to use a mig welder to....er glue ?

No, mig weld summut 🤩

Mig method is the best, been harping on about that method for years...and years.....and years....bike tax and MOT exempt now 😁

If the mig method fails due to shear, try again, and again, and one last time. Think what your doing wrong and try again, what have you got to loose, a broken easy out or drill, then your in the shit, but don't dispare, weld summut to the broken bit and remove the easy out or drill the other way...drill is final final final resort, even then, get the mig out !

Car brake bleeder nipples are a favourite.....
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Last edited by bikenut on 07:44 - 02 Feb 2021; edited 1 time in total
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 06:57 - 20 Jan 2021    Post subject: Re: Drill Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Might method is the best, been harping on about that method for years...and years.....and years....bike tax and MOT exempt now 😁

If the mighty method fails due to shear, try again, and again, and one last time. Think what your doing wrong and try again, what have you got to loose, a broken easy out or drill, then your in the shit, but don't dispare, weld summut to the broken bit and remove the easy out or drill the other way...drill is final final final resort, even then, get the mig out !

Car brake bleeder nipples are a favourite.....


It might just be me but this doesn't seem to make any sense at all. You are saying to use a particular method but not telling us what the method is.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 20 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using this... yes. Using "easy outs", is a mixed bag.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-Pro-25pc-SCREW-EXTRACTOR-DRILL-AND-GUIDE-SET-for-Broken-Studs-Bolts-2632/303030385183?epid=24018191095&hash=item468e04ba1f:g:JzYAAOSw8kRcPb27
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 20 Jan 2021    Post subject: Re: Drill Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
bikenut wrote:
Might method is the best, been harping on about that method for years...and years.....and years....bike tax and MOT exempt now 😁

If the mighty method fails due to shear, try again, and again, and one last time. Think what your doing wrong and try again, what have you got to loose, a broken easy out or drill, then your in the shit, but don't dispare, weld summut to the broken bit and remove the easy out or drill the other way...drill is final final final resort, even then, get the mig out !

Car brake bleeder nipples are a favourite.....


It might just be me but this doesn't seem to make any sense at all. You are saying to use a particular method but not telling us what the method is.


Must be drug related. 🤔
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 20 Jan 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weld a nut on. The heat of the weld will usually free the stud up.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

c_dug wrote:
steve the grease wrote:
Well we are the lucky ones, there's no such thing as a metalwork room anymore in schools . My nephew who apparently did a degree in mechanical engineering had never touched a lathe ( or probably a file) I made him have a go on mine. 'Oh that's a clever idea' he says. ' you could make allsorts on one of these. '.


For what it's worth, this is changing now.

I am involved with one of the biggest college groups in the UK, and part of their engineering program includes a "summer camp" for secondary school kids to experience engineering - they've had school kids on the program who have gone on to study engineering at the college, and then on to apprenticeships with some very well known places.

We take half a dozen or so of them on each year as work experience placements, into a properly old school mechanical engineering workshop, and you would be pleasantly surprised at how well they do.

There is a small glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel!


I am very happy to hear this.
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All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 01 Feb 2021    Post subject: Mig Reply with quote

Yeh you probably are on drugs, just keep taking the medication, the right pills would help you.

Yep islander, weld a nut on, or a prepared bolt, tapered being good, using a mig, even a monkey can use one of them, which means the druggies are out.


Sorry but.........the doubters have been on here longer than I have, I've been mentioning and explaining the mig method for ages, you don't remember, those pills again eh.

Peeps hated CMSNL exploded views even, extremely helpful diagrams etc., remember, no, those pills again probably

Yeh and old bikes are now tax and mot exempt....you didn't believe that a few years ago did you.

It's gets like this on here sometimes EBC, very vitriolic at times, but it's good to put the natives back in the cage....

🤩 And get your bloody hair cut boy.
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Last edited by bikenut on 18:42 - 01 Feb 2021; edited 1 time in total
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