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| NJD |
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NJD
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Joined: 11 Mar 2015
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 Posted: 23:37 - 31 Mar 2021  Post subject: [99/MK1] Fazer 600 - Wrong spark plugs, issue? |
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Hi,
So recently I purchased some new spark plugs from a local bike shop for a 1999 Yamaha Fazer 600 (MK1 / Box-eye) and now, a few days later, realise that they might be the wrong ones (to clarify they looked at the book to see what ones I'd need and sold me them, I didn't pick them out).
The ones I purchased and currently have fitted are NGK CR9EK (4548 NGK code) which are for the FZ6 Fazer (not the bike I own).
The manual for the 99 Fazer 600 that I own says I can use NGK CR8E (1275 NGK code) or CR9E (6263 NGK code), but no mention of the CR9EK (4548 NGK code).
Here's the CR8E specs:
https://i.postimg.cc/Y9XVqbKw/cr8e.jpg
CR9EK specs:
https://i.postimg.cc/FHt6RYq1/cr9ek.jpg
I did wonder why the plugs had a dual head when I got home after buying them to fit them, but figured they were just uprated ones that I'd been sold. 
I do have a intermittent starting issue at the moment that I can't pinpoint a cause (only just started looking), and nor can I say definitively when it started to occur (although may stem from the plug change). The revs basically hang low for a few seconds then get up above 1,000 and increase as I'd expect. Bike is difficult to start from cold and shows similar rev issue when warm starting (not always). Once the bike starts its all I'd expect, and out on the road.
Might re-fit the CR8E's tomorrow morning and see if the starting issues vanish. If they do I'm tempted to take the CR9EK's back and ask for CR8E's, CR9E's or refund.
Agree, or am I worrying about nothing and looking in the wrong place?
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| jaffa90 |
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jaffa90
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| jeffyjeff |
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jeffyjeff
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| MCN |
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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Posted: 07:37 - 01 Apr 2021  Post subject: |
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Heat range indicates the self-cleaning property of the plug more than anything.
The twin side-wire is an efficiency measure.
It's intended to reduce mis-sparks/ensure more sparks.
I think there are 4 wire plugs too.
I only use Iridium plugs.
They really improve cold start and kind-of appear to improve response.
Interesting info here.
https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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| NJD |
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NJD
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| Posted: 12:58 - 01 Apr 2021 Post subject: |
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Cheers for the link: I'd been trying to find similar info via Google and wasn't having much luck.
I removed plug #4 before even touching the stater button this morning and it all looked okay, but did think it came out a tad easy (fitted loose or vibrated loose slightly) so went over all four and nipped them up ever so slightly. The threads for the spark plug holes on this engine cause me a mini heart attack every time I attempt to remove or re-fit a plug. Their not rounded by any means, but their far from fresh; and so I don't blame myself for being over cautious when fitting the new plugs recently. I'll try and stay away from removing them for as long as possible now. Convinced their going to be the death of the bike one day. 
I also removed the Denali Mini Sound-Bomb horn that draws 5 amps instead of the standard 3 amps (no relay fitted, but it doesn't come with one nor state that it needs one), but once I'm convinced I've resolved the starting issue (believe I have) over a number of days in various weather I'll re-fit it. It had previously sounded by itself when I turned the ignition on a week or so ago on one occasion (fixed since), but had to remove it to rule out a ground connection issue since something had clearly been touching something it shouldn't: that and the fact the mounting options for that horn on this bike are stupid due to size / location of O.E.M horn mount.
Also removed the wire that I'd connected to enable the H4 high beam bulb to come on all the time (standard set-up just enables the H1 L/H side to run and the H4 R/H side to power on via high beam toggle switch). I wasn't attempting to start the bike with the lights on (can switch them all the way off on the FZS 600), but the power draw on the battery went from 14.something v to 12. something volts when switched on and just over 13 v when revved and straight down to 12. something volts again.
Alongside pushing the connectors for the ground earth wire and positive connection into the stater relay to ensure firm connection I believe that should be all for now.
Bike started from fairly cold-ish with throttle held open and then pushing the button without choke. It ran like turd because it wasn't warmed up properly, of course, but is exactly the result I wanted.
Weathers pants so can't really comment on running performance (high wind, low temps) but seems good enough for the short run I did (famous last words).
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶ |
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| MCN |
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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Posted: 16:23 - 01 Apr 2021  Post subject: |
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| NJD wrote: |
Cheers for the link: I'd been trying to find similar info via Google and wasn't having much luck.
I removed plug #4 before even touching the stater button this morning and it all looked okay, but did think it came out a tad easy (fitted loose or vibrated loose slightly) so went over all four and nipped them up ever so slightly. The threads for the spark plug holes on this engine cause me a mini heart attack every time I attempt to remove or re-fit a plug. Their not rounded by any means, but their far from fresh; and so I don't blame myself for being over cautious when fitting the new plugs recently. I'll try and stay away from removing them for as long as possible now. Convinced their going to be the death of the bike one day.
I also removed the Denali Mini Sound-Bomb horn that draws 5 amps instead of the standard 3 amps (no relay fitted, but it doesn't come with one nor state that it needs one), but once I'm convinced I've resolved the starting issue (believe I have) over a number of days in various weather I'll re-fit it. It had previously sounded by itself when I turned the ignition on a week or so ago on one occasion (fixed since), but had to remove it to rule out a ground connection issue since something had clearly been touching something it shouldn't: that and the fact the mounting options for that horn on this bike are stupid due to size / location of O.E.M horn mount.
Also removed the wire that I'd connected to enable the H4 high beam bulb to come on all the time (standard set-up just enables the H1 L/H side to run and the H4 R/H side to power on via high beam toggle switch). I wasn't attempting to start the bike with the lights on (can switch them all the way off on the FZS 600), but the power draw on the battery went from 14.something v to 12. something volts when switched on and just over 13 v when revved and straight down to 12. something volts again.
Alongside pushing the connectors for the ground earth wire and positive connection into the stater relay to ensure firm connection I believe that should be all for now.
Bike started from fairly cold-ish with throttle held open and then pushing the button without choke. It ran like turd because it wasn't warmed up properly, of course, but is exactly the result I wanted.
Weathers pants so can't really comment on running performance (high wind, low temps) but seems good enough for the short run I did (famous last words). |
You can get sparkplug taps.
Or.. Make a Ghetto Sparkplug tap from an old spark plug.
Dremel a couple or four flutes (slots) up the thread.
Use a wire brush to remove any metal or grindings from the modifikated thread.
Thread it into the plug hole and remove.
Any shite should be collected in the flutes.
Rinse and repeat with the other holes.
Also, the washers are sort of 'single use' so compress to provides a good gas seal 1st time they are fitted. There is a tightening procedure to ensure the correct 'torque'.
It may be:
Screw in until they contact the the washer then turn an additional 1/2 turn. That is the first virgin time.
If removed then they should not be turned as much after the washer meets the head.
Possibly just 1/3 turn then.
If you tighten too much they can be a bitch to remove.
Or you risk over stressing the thread in the head.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 3 years, 25 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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