Starting an engine after many years

[BanditsHigh]

My 'good' GSX1400 has been off the road for quite a few years, stored in an unheated garage ... done over 103k miles on it and only took it off the road as needing lots of work done after riding through many winters!

I know a full engine strip/rebuild would be best, but could I basically put flushing oil in (pour some over the top end as well), fresh fuel and fire her up?

Basic idea was for flushing oil, turn it over by hand a few times just to make sure nothing is stuck, then run (if it does) for a few minutes before then replacing the oil etc.

Any and all advice appreciated.

All the best ... Barry

[stinkwheel]

If it's old oil I'd drain it down. I wouldn't use specific flushing oil, I'd just use cheap normal oil, maybe get a couple of filters at the same time so you can do a short-interval change.

Once it's oiled up, I'd give it a good turn over without fuel or spark to get all the oilways primed. You can turn them over by shorting across the starter solenoid.

I'd drain down any fuel that's stil int here, have a look in the tank with a torch and decide if you want to put fresh fuel in there ro give it a good clean out.

Evict any mice from the airbox.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[jeffyjeff]

Here is my suggestion:
Remove the plugs, squirt in a tablespoon (or 2) engine oil in each cylinder. Drain the engine oil, replace the filter and refill with fresh oil less 1 litre. Remove the valve cover and pour in the last litre over the valve train. Turn the engine over by hand at least 2 revolutions and observe the valve train action. If all feels and looks good, replace the spark plugs. Drain the coolant and pour in fresh (consider replacing the pressure cap). Remove the low tension wires from the coils to disable the ignition system. Crank the engine over with the starter in two 15 second intervals to circulate oil through the galleries and lube the main and rod bearings. Replace the low tension wires, cross fingers, and crank.

Engine should start with a puff of blue smoke that will fade. Listen for abnormality. Idle until the hose to the top of the radiator gets hot. Check for coolant leaks and inspect hoses for bulges or visible abnormality. Check for oil leaks. Ride around the block and inspect again.

Edit: Stinkwheel is right; fresh fuel is important. Airbox mice reduce power.
____________________
History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[steve the grease]

I think I would remove the plugs and spin the engine over for a minute on the starter to hopefully ensure that there is plenty of oil where it's needed.
Drain the tank and carbs- refill with fresh petrol and, make sure the petrol is getting through by undoing one of the carb drains and see it running out.
Then put it all back together and try it , give it a few whiffs of easy start to give it a bit of encouragement. It will probably cough and splutter and eventually come in on a few cylinders before settling down- hopefully.

Once the oil has circulated a bit it will pick up all the dirt, which may have settled out whilst stood. Once its up and running - that is the best time to drain and refill, but before using the bike on the road, in my opinion.
.
____________________
All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of.....

[virus]

If it was a known good engine with no faults when it was parked and hasnt been 'open' aka inlet/spark plugs/ exhaust/ rocker cover off then I wouldnt bother with taking anything off.

Id turn the ignition on so the oil pressure light functions then short the starter solenoid to crank it without any voltage going to the sparks. once its proven oil pressure once or twice Id give it fresh oil and filter, fresh fuel and filter then give it a chance at starting. Once it fires up let it idle for 5/10 mins to warm up.
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

[jeffyjeff]

No shortage of opinions on this one. Pick one and go for it. What could go wrong?
____________________
History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[BanditsHigh]

Thanks for the advice guys ... you've all basically said to do what I was intending to do ... didn't want to muddy the waters by giving a full description of my own thoughts.

It needs a lot of TLC to get it back on the road, but if I can get the engine running again without issue then that's a start!

Will let you know how I get on.

All the best ... Barry

[Weisse Schlange]

Oil change for cheap oil, leave filter till second oil change
Airbox off and hoovered out then new filter.
Drain all fuel and check tank condition.
Carb bowls off and cleaned out. Carb cleaner on the lot.
Plugs out and new ones in.
Check it turns over nice and free and that all drives do the same (alternator , starter )
Check coolant for gunge/crystals/general crap and replace.
Battery out and clean up terminals before refitting.
Release oil down bores for a wee bit, just to help avoid any scoring.

Give it some.
____________________
Hing Oan

[Islander]

[Shaft]

[bikenut]

You are aware that things can stick.

Once established all valves free and it turns over well, with a prepared sump and new oil filter, plugs out and bores lubed, turn very by hand and watch oil flow to filter, good, fit filter and keep turning.

By this stage use a racket on crank bolt and crank.

You will feel when the system starts to pressurise, keep cranking, has the oil light go e out ? Make sure engine ignition is dead via kill switch.

How many turns to put the oil light out, and to initial "oil gush ) from filter feed...

It's old, had problems before it's rest period, and it's your bike.

When it's comes to starting time, I would use some 2t in the fuel if carbed...

You can you can easy access the cams, will the engine turn over ok with them exposed...

Since the clutch will be stuck, maybe prodent to remove clutch cover for a look-see, and use any holes to internals for a low pressure flush out .

I would give it a good flush out.

Whilst it's dripping down, add some coloured fluid to the plug holes pistons mid bore.

Watch for this ...

Take your time, get it clean inside, make sure it turns over easily and puts the oil light out by hand when cold.

Check ignition( which was dead, off, killed, protected during all that rachet cranking ? Yes...

Test tank or main tank....carbs and cables...

Bike safe and on centre stand, add fuel, no overflows ? Good...

Battery good and working, if I t has a kick starter, give it a swing...

When it's started, minimum revs...check charging system, let it run low revs...computer fans for cooling...etc.
____________________
nuts about bikes

[bikenut]

Your bike has had a long rest in jancurs, so needs to see the light of day, or arrange so fresh is is abundant.

Engine. All free, low pressure flushed out, clutch cover off, clean internals for flush out, the clutch will be stuck so a step down and clean. New steels plates at least ?

So flushed out, clutch sorted, cover on, new gasket.

All happy engine is free, well lubed and whizzes over on starter, ignition good, fuel system serviced, air systems ready to go, no fuel leaks/overflows, she has even compressions, fire extinguisher just over there, all ready, hit the title and it gently burrbles into life, reborn....for now.

Brakes etc...

Deep service...

Mot

Enjoy...what year is she ?
____________________
nuts about bikes

[stinkwheel]

I don't understand fuel injection at all. Are there any bits of an FI system that could have got blocked/varnished up? Pump? Tap?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Islander]

[BanditsHigh]

God knows how much is 'jammed up' external to the engine (never mind internally)... I do need new throttle cables ... throttle bodies may be ok or not etc.

I'm not in any rush to get it done as I have another GSX1400 which I'm riding at the moment.

My 'good' 14 (2003) has one off billet yokes (designed by myself), gas flowed head, individual air filters, full Akra system, power commander, Hagon Nitro shocks (gubbed) etc ... I got around 125bhp at the back with just under 100ft/lb of torque.

Over 103k miles and still the original clutch .... but riding through winters has taken it's toll again .... but if I know the engine is good then I can start spending time on her and get her back to pristine again.

Again, thanks for all the hints/tips ... mucho appreciated.

All the best ... Barry

[Pete.]

[MCN]