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Easy-X |
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Posted: 11:04 - 22 May 2021 Post subject: |
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When you get to such low ohms it's easy to gain a tiny bit of resistance through dirt and minor corrosion. The main thing it's not massively high resistance which would imply the coil's burnt out and not close to zero resistance which would imply the coil's shorted out. I'd peg it as a "maybe" for now.
The "black box" is variously called a CDI, TDI, Ignitor, etc. depending on the design and how the manufacturer's feeling at the time This controls when the angry electrical piskies are released. Old bikes would have the points system where mechanical rotation effectively closes a switch near top-dead-centre of the piston travel. The black box on newer bikes picks up this rotation from the electrical pulses from the magneto and through a circuit of capacitors and transistors emulates what the mechanical points would have done...
Unfortunately this "black box" is not as easy to test as the other components and is best categorised as "it works or it doesn't"
After that it's there's the chunky high tension lead from the coil, the plug cap and the spark plug itself.
I take it if you touch the spark plug to any patch of unpainted engine or frame you're getting nothing when you turn it over? (Worth doing in the shade in case you're getting a very weak spark.) ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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jaffa90 |
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jaffa90 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 18:05 - 22 May 2021 Post subject: |
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UR, U no answer Questions. |
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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Posted: 11:09 - 23 May 2021 Post subject: T |
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So you now have a spark, but at the right time ?
The engine has compression, breathes ok and has fresh fuel in the carb
Saw an advert on TV last night, a chap getting a close shave via remote control using a mobile phone powered by EE, balonney ! Try that around here EE, the chap would have his throat cut !!!
Can't access CMSNL for the exploded views which would show me and you a lot, internet being a pita the last few days.
Anyways, do the timing marks line up on the flywheel for tdc etc..
A sheared flywheel key will allow the ignition system to work, but, at the incorrect time.
Get a red neon plug cap that flashes when they pass HT, they fit between plug and ie plug cap but you may have to make an adapter. Cheap and a quick real world HT tester......
You may have a spark with the plug out, but does the system create a spark when the plug is in ?
Good clean plug ?
I assume you have not seen or heard the engine running ?
Has the previous owner had the engine apart ? Chewed screws)bolts, new gaskets, sealer ouzzing out of joints/gasket faces....is the piston in the wrong way ( Kawasaki k100 many many many years ago, non starter, found piston fitted backwards, it had an arrow on the crown ffs !!!! ). ____________________ nuts about bikes
Last edited by bikenut on 11:40 - 23 May 2021; edited 2 times in total |
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Robby |
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Posted: 14:29 - 23 May 2021 Post subject: |
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You have spark. We will assume it's happening at the right time and strong enough, and put that to one side. Next things you need are fuel and compression.
Compression can only be properly tested with a compression tester, comparing the figures against the workshop manual.
Which leaves fuel. Seeing as the bike doesn't seem to have fun for a while, I would assume the fuel you have is fairly old and may have some water in. The carb may also be full of crap as well, but let's not go down that road just yet - even a filthy carb will still often allow the engine to run, or at least try.
I would drain the fuel out of the tank and carb and refill with a gallon of fresh petrol. If it is running pre-mix, then mix it up. If not, make sure the oil tank has oil in it. Fresh petrol, full choke, kick it over and see if it will live.
In reality, kick it over many, many times. Eventually it will cough, and then run. |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 12:51 - 30 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Worth mentioning for non-Yammie/2-stroke ppl that "YPVS" is the "Yamaha Power Valve System" (which is servo driven.)
As to why it's connected to the rear brake switch? The [probably] brown wire you're talking about is the switched power from the battery and it runs to lots of things on the bike
As far as I can tell the magneto is wired straight to the CDI and the other 3 wires on the CDI are "engine stop" "ground" and an output to the power valve controller - doesn't look like it needs the battery to start but it would need it to run well as the YPVS is on the switched battery circuit. Maybe it could just run from the power from the regulator but you'd need someone who has a DT125R/DT200R to tell you that.
<addendum> If the blurry picture hurts your eyes: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1101765/Yamaha-Dt200r.html?page=115#manual ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 2 years, 325 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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