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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
Joined: 05 May 2021 Karma :
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Posted: 22:58 - 05 May 2021 Post subject: Learner bike - new vs used - and how to check used bikes? |
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Hi yall! I'm new to forum and new to bikes to
Long story short I'm doing my CBT next week and want to buy a learners bike, the 125cc (but not a scooter) . But if I'm feeling confident and like this is for me I would do a proper motorcycle license in the future.
The problem is with my budget - £1700 - I have no idea if I should go after a new chinese bike or have a look at used ones.
And watching YouTube for few days just turned my brains into a mush...
I also have to buy something with lower seat, I'm a short 5ft2 girl so that's important for me to be able to put both feet on the ground to feel safely and stable.
I love the look of Suzuki Marauder and even found something in my area on ebay.
The problem is I'm really scared of buying used bike. I have no idea what should be checked and have no friends who know anything about motorcycles to help me out.
I watched some videos on YT about this but IRL I feel like this will be harder to tell if the bike is in a good enough condition.
So my question to the forum - what should I check when buying a used bike?
Maybe there's some courses around Manchester/Liverpool area to learn about bikes or something ...
Or should I just go for a cheapo new Chinese like Lexmoto/Zontes?
Maybe someone has recommendations what bike to pick in that price range?
Thanks, Riley |
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wr6133 |
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wr6133 World Chat Champion
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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
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wr6133 |
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wr6133 World Chat Champion
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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
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Posted: 00:07 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Wow, that's a lot o things to tell from the photos. Thanks!
Do You have any recommendations when it comes for bikes for shorter folks?
Is there anything else apart from seat height I should be looking at?
Do You know by any chance if is there any learning I could do to spot things like that and learn how to find a bike in a really good state? YouTube videos, books or whatever really? Or is it something that comes with experience ? Thanks |
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pepperami |
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pepperami Super Spammer
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 01:50 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Punt the number plate of any potential purchase here:
https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
Things like tyres near wear limit should be the normal stuff to see but a big block of "serious! fix immediately" notes might be a warning. Also you can get an idea of how much mileage it did per year. 90% of a bike you can inspect by looking but things like having the oil changed regularly you can only guess at (as a beginner) unless there's service history supplied. For the Marauder I'd say the bike looks well used, certainly not being sold at a bargain price.
As to new vs 2nd hand? A long running debate on this forum but generally the consensus is a big brand old bike will keep its value whereas a new Chinese bike will lose half its value in a year. Obviously the latter doesn't require much thought as it's new so there's that.
At 5'2" you'll probably be most comfortable on a cruiser. I'm not overly tall so I started on a Keeway Superlight and that was very easy to handle both riding and moving about by hand. ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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TaffyTDM |
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TaffyTDM Spanner Monkey
Joined: 15 Jul 2015 Karma :
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Posted: 05:59 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Tell your partner you are at no less risk on a 125 than a larger machine. Point out that bigger bikes tend to have improved braking, tyres, can keep up with traffic without invoking impatience and rage from others, and that to ride one you actually need to demonstrate how safe you are to a man from the gubbermint, having recieved about 36 hours of training.
If you are old enough, do nothing until your cbt then either walk away or spend your money on further training and a ticket, then if she still wont let you buy anything more than a 125, so be it, but at least you have been trained and tested rather than wobbling around solo after a lap of the primary school and a chocolate hobnob |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion
Joined: 22 Nov 2012 Karma :
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Posted: 06:58 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Riley90 wrote: | Wow, that's a lot o things to tell from the photos. Thanks!
Do You have any recommendations when it comes for bikes for shorter folks?
Is there anything else apart from seat height I should be looking at?
Do You know by any chance if is there any learning I could do to spot things like that and learn how to find a bike in a really good state? YouTube videos, books or whatever really? Or is it something that comes with experience ? Thanks |
Have you seen the Tins on Tour youtube channel - she's a bit ahead of where you are now, and rides a Lexmoto Michigan (iirc she bought it new). Not sure how tall she is but she's short. Has just bought a Fazer though - and there's a short woman in my club who rides a Fazer and she won't be over 5' 3" I reckon.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8hF-oz-DiML0SE61t1mbUw/videos
The Cheyleesi channel has some views on bikes, cruisers for shorter riders as well.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFtNxrwKDxoitvM3WX9bfPg/videos
As for buying secondhand bikes, I personally just look for any signs of rust firstly. I might expect the odd spot but I certainly don't want to see any on fork sliders i.e. stanchions, petrol tank nor actually spokes/ The spokes part, unless excessive, is a cosmetic thing - unless very advanced, in which case it will obviously dangerously weaken the strength of the whole wheel itself. But even a slight amount can be a bit tricky to remove and keep at bay once occurred. And although chain and sprockets can be relatively easily replaced, I don't want to see any rust on a chain - that just speaks to general neglect, lack of mechanical sympathy and an owner who is stupid. Some slight rust on the rear side plates of the chain, yeah okay. But not even that, really. The rest of the bike needs to be rust and oxide free, afaic. Especially if its a twin shock. I don't won't springs rusty. But this can be difficult to find on bikes below £1700, sometimes.
Secondly, look at the paperwork if there is any (and if there isn't any, that could be a sign in itself that the bike hasn't been cared for much - or has passed from owner to owner to owner, nobody really giving a shit). What sort of receipts and work's been done. Although of course evidence of really serious stuff might be absent. But are there at least regular MOTs, and what sorts of information is on those? If the bike's failed tests, why? Etc.
Thirdly, how easily does it start from cold? How does it sound when it runs? This is more difficult. But any untoward sounds should be readily apparent to someone whose owned bikes previously - you just need a second pair of ears and eyes when you go to look at a bike.
If the bike's good and decent cosmetically (and I personally wouldn't really say that Marauder was - I mean, it's okay...but like wr6133 says, those painted spokes and rims are shit, and have almost certainly been done to hide untidiness, which will just annoyingly reappear over the next few months).
What bike does the riding school have, where you will do the CBT? ____________________ "Life is a sexually transmitted disease and the mortality rate is one hundred percent."
Mobylette Type 50 ---> Raleigh Grifter ---> Neval Minsk 125 |
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UncleFester |
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UncleFester World Chat Champion
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Posted: 07:11 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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That's a chunk of cash for an 11 year old 125!
I know they are cheapish rubbish ( but so are most 125 and don't be fooled by Honda being any better at this end of the market)
https://www.keeway.co.uk/new-bikes/bike/2020-keeway-superlight-125cc-se-31
£2200 brand new with a 2 year warranty.
Look at the 2nd hand prices and see what you think you can sell a 2 year old bike for - if it gets you through your test and the first 2 years of riding and you've got a good bike shop locally then they make sense. If you can walk away with a few hundred quid in your bike pocket at the end of that to throw at something you really want then job done.
Our local bike place sells AJS and Keeway by the bucket load to people who use them to commute to the local train station and treat them as disposable - replaced every 2 years just because they are cheap enough to do so.
I don't hear many complaints. ____________________ Module 1 and 2 passed - October 2014. Happy owner of a 2017 Z1000SX, ex owner of a YBR125 / CB500 / VFR800. |
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wr6133 |
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wr6133 World Chat Champion
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Karma :
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Posted: 07:47 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Riley90 wrote: | Wow, that's a lot o things to tell from the photos. Thanks! |
Just zoom in on photos (preferably on a decent PC monitor not a phone) and look at any bare metal parts for corrosion and painted parts for quality of paint. Any consumables you can see (tyres, chains, sprockets, etc), if they look fucked are indicative of poor care.
Quote: | Do You have any recommendations when it comes for bikes for shorter folks?
Is there anything else apart from seat height I should be looking at? |
Inside leg is what matters so if you are short but leggy you'll have an easier time than short and stumpy.
Appearance or even height of the bike isn't everything, some have really wide seats that splay you out a bit so maybe worse than something an inch taller but narrower. My wife is only a little bit taller than you and she can't get her feet down on one of my small looking Enfields but can get 1 foot down (confidently) on my massive looking GSXR 1000. Best thing is to take a day going round as many dealers as you can and sitting on everything. You may though need to accept not flat footing both feet.
One to watch on cruisers is controls. Forward controls (pegs right up at front of frame) is going to mean your legs need to stretch forward to rest on the pegs and operate rear brake/gears, you may if vertically challenged find that stretch uncomfortable, same with tall handlebars. Again only way to judge is sit on one.
Riley90 wrote: | Do You know by any chance if is there any learning I could do to spot things like that and learn how to find a bike in a really good state? YouTube videos, books or whatever really? Or is it something that comes with experience ? Thanks |
Alot of it is common sense, some is learning/experience (or getting fucked over).
Adverts are easy to filter, if they sound like they were written as a class project by a special school, skip over. If photos are really poor, skip over (most people have a good camera on their phone these days, so crap resolution photos I view as intentional). Study photos for the points I mentioned above. Ask the seller some basic questions judge their character from how they answer.
Do a HPI check before going to see the bike, checks for any write offs and finance.
Finally viewing the bike. For your 1st try to take someone who has done it before failing that pore over it front to back, judge condition. You don't need to be an expert to spot poor bodges, cosmetics, etc. Consumables such as tyres, chain, sprocket (rear) can easily be seen and if in a poor state make you wonder about the state of things you can't see. Crap DIY paint is often hiding crash damage or rust, cheap aftermarket tat can also be an indicator that it's been thrown down the road and slapped back together on a budget of 50p.
Hold the front brake on and bounce the front end a few times, look for oil traces on the fork stanchions (knackered fork seals). Check the oil, via the window or dipstick, if the level is not correct it's a sign of poor care. If it's really old and black also poor care. Touch the exhaust pipe near the engine, you want to start the bike from cold, if the pipe is warm they may have run it up to hide any horrible (expensive) engine noises that can be heard from cold. Start the bike and listen, rev it a little, you are listening for any noises that make you think "engines shouldn't make that sound". As a new learner a test ride is unlikely but if you do blag one take it through all the gears and give it a good handul of throttle in each, if it jumps out of a gear under load or has any selection issues, walk away. Check the numbers on the V5 (logbook) match the numbers on the engine and frame.
Your CBT will actually tell you how to inspect a bike prior to riding, you can apply most of that to inspecting prior to purchasing.
Always remember every bike you look at was mass produced. If you really want a specific model there are loads out there so don't feel pressured to buy one you are not totally happy with, another will come along. |
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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
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Posted: 19:59 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Wow, thank You so much everyone for replies !
I'm going have to find a nice used bike.
I called 20 ish dealers in the area and it's impossible to find a new 125 below 2099. And I have only 1700.
So I thought I'll try to get a used bike from a dealer that offers warranty.
I found this Keeway on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133738945464?hash=item1f23765bb8:g:FP0AAOSwrwtggxuG |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha World Chat Champion
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wr6133 |
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wr6133 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 21:38 - 06 May 2021 Post subject: |
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The lack of photos would put me off a bit. Same seller was happy to have loads of pictures of this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/133687105143 and you can see the corrosion on the left hand fork stanchion (if not in travel area not a major issue), makes me wonder why the Keeway has 3 photos showing very little. From what is on show though it looks clean, Easy-X on here had one and I don't think it exploded on him. |
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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
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wr6133 |
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wr6133 World Chat Champion
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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
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Posted: 00:23 - 07 May 2021 Post subject: |
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote: | Riley90 wrote: | Wow, that's a lot o things to tell from the photos. Thanks!
Do You have any recommendations when it comes for bikes for shorter folks?
Is there anything else apart from seat height I should be looking at?
Do You know by any chance if is there any learning I could do to spot things like that and learn how to find a bike in a really good state? YouTube videos, books or whatever really? Or is it something that comes with experience ? Thanks |
Have you seen the Tins on Tour youtube channel - she's a bit ahead of where you are now, and rides a Lexmoto Michigan (iirc she bought it new). Not sure how tall she is but she's short. Has just bought a Fazer though - and there's a short woman in my club who rides a Fazer and she won't be over 5' 3" I reckon.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8hF-oz-DiML0SE61t1mbUw/videos
The Cheyleesi channel has some views on bikes, cruisers for shorter riders as well.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFtNxrwKDxoitvM3WX9bfPg/videos
As for buying secondhand bikes, I personally just look for any signs of rust firstly. I might expect the odd spot but I certainly don't want to see any on fork sliders i.e. stanchions, petrol tank nor actually spokes/ The spokes part, unless excessive, is a cosmetic thing - unless very advanced, in which case it will obviously dangerously weaken the strength of the whole wheel itself. But even a slight amount can be a bit tricky to remove and keep at bay once occurred. And although chain and sprockets can be relatively easily replaced, I don't want to see any rust on a chain - that just speaks to general neglect, lack of mechanical sympathy and an owner who is stupid. Some slight rust on the rear side plates of the chain, yeah okay. But not even that, really. The rest of the bike needs to be rust and oxide free, afaic. Especially if its a twin shock. I don't won't springs rusty. But this can be difficult to find on bikes below £1700, sometimes.
Secondly, look at the paperwork if there is any (and if there isn't any, that could be a sign in itself that the bike hasn't been cared for much - or has passed from owner to owner to owner, nobody really giving a shit). What sort of receipts and work's been done. Although of course evidence of really serious stuff might be absent. But are there at least regular MOTs, and what sorts of information is on those? If the bike's failed tests, why? Etc.
Thirdly, how easily does it start from cold? How does it sound when it runs? This is more difficult. But any untoward sounds should be readily apparent to someone whose owned bikes previously - you just need a second pair of ears and eyes when you go to look at a bike.
If the bike's good and decent cosmetically (and I personally wouldn't really say that Marauder was - I mean, it's okay...but like wr6133 says, those painted spokes and rims are shit, and have almost certainly been done to hide untidiness, which will just annoyingly reappear over the next few months).
What bike does the riding school have, where you will do the CBT? |
Thanks for the tips.
I'm just preparing the list from things You guys posted here to check when I'm looking at the bikes.
I've watched some of her videos. It's kinda of scary thinking I won't be able to put my feet flat on the ground
https://www.cbt-ridertraining.com/ That's the school I'm going to get CBT, they got the best reviews in the area. They've got Suzuki GN125 and Honda CG125. Obv I'll go with Suzuki for the learning. |
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Riley90 |
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Riley90 L Plate Warrior
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Posted: 12:10 - 10 May 2021 Post subject: |
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Lil update!
So managed to get a cruiser after all!
On wednesday I'm doing my CBT and a day after I'm getting a Sinnis CruiseStar
Thank You everyone for sharing Your knowledge ! |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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wr6133 World Chat Champion
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BRUN Trackday Trickster
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 2 years, 352 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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