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SV650s k3 won't start (odd priming noise?)

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Fred3606
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 26 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 04 May 2021    Post subject: SV650s k3 won't start (odd priming noise?) Reply with quote

A few days ago I was on my way home, stopped off to fill up with fuel then started the bike to set off. I only got about 20m down away from the petrol station when the bike cut out. When I tried to restart it would turn over but not fire.
I have tried it again 2 days later but it is still the same problem.
When I turn the key the usual whirring from the fuel pump is replaced with a bit of a coarser sound, almost like an extremely rapid clicking. The FI light often will flash but sometimes won't.
The bike is an SV650S K3
Any help appreciated,
Fred
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 04 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

After trying to start the engine is the front spark plug wet with fuel or dry? Also does the end of the exhaust pipes smell of fuel?
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 09:14 - 05 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

dodgy fuel is not unheard of, especially with Tesco stations.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 05 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diesel? Do you have your receipt?
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 05 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locate the clicking, if it's the relay for the pump then the pump itself maybe dead.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 05 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:
Diesel? Do you have your receipt?


Exactly what I was going to say. A local guy I know did it last month. Filled up in Sainsburys, conked out on the roundabout. I said "you put diesel in it" and he swore blind he didn't.

Ten minutes later the phone rang "I'm so stupid" Very Happy

Honda scooter which was a real sumbitch to get the tank out of. In the end we gave up and up-ended the bike.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:57 - 06 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm... I've never done this personally but the wife's fucked a few cars up with the wrong fuel Sad

I'm minded to ask for the receipt every time they ask from now on just so I can check I haven't been a numpty Smile
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Fred3606
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PostPosted: 15:51 - 06 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the responses.
I just got round to removing the seat to get a recording and possibly locate the odd noise. I pulled out the fuse cluster and the ECU then turned the ignition and it made the usual priming noise and started.
Have just been for a brief run and it seems fine.
Any thoughts on what it was for if it happens again. The fuel pump relay sounds likely!
Thanks again,
Fred
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doggone
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 06 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like what you fiddled with has a bad or corroded connection.
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Fred3606
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's back and it's consistent.
I can usually get it to work for a bit if I wiggle the ECU around but it will only run for a few hundred metres before cutting out again. Made for a long push home!
I have a restricted and unrestricted ECU and changed them over with the same problem.
I think I'll have to take it somewhere and get it looked at but wondered if anyone here has anything to comment on. Any ideas how much it will cost?
I have attached the priming sound in case that helps. (Bear in mind my phone is right next to the wiring under the seat and it isn't that loud usually)
Thanks again
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:04 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a bad relay but I think I'd be grabbing a wiring diagram and tracing it back (probably goes straight to the ECU) and looking for frayed cable.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's an electrical fault IMO, something wrong with a loom connector or earthing ring at a guess.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Fred3606
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 29 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies for the late reply, I have had exams and the bike has had to sit on the back burner.
I thought the clicking noise was coming from the ECU and after pulling it out and putting it back the bike would restart temporarily back when this started. However, after checking now I could feel that it is the black relay between the battery and fuse box which I believe is the fuel pump relay (judging from the wire colours matching the diagram). Does this imply I need a new relay or is it making the noise due to the fuel pump being blocked?
I should also say, a while ago (perhaps 7 months) I completely ran out of fuel and first had the bike cut out not long after though only for a few minutes, and continued after as normal. Though this may be confirmation bias on my part.
Thanks,
Fred
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 29 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Relays click. That's how they work. They are electro-mechanical.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 29 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the fuel pump relay is clicking and the pump is not priming then either:

1. The pump is faulty
2 The fuse is blown
3 There's a wiring fault between the relay and pump
4 Some idiot has cut the power line to the pump and routed it through the relay on an immobiliser, and the immobiliser is kaput.

Given the symptoms I would first suspect the alarm/immobiliser if it has one, especially if it's a Datatool. After that look at the pump.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Fred3606
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PostPosted: 18:21 - 30 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have checked the battery voltage while it is clicking and it's a healthy 11.6V.
Your last guess worries my as I think the previous owner had a datatool immobilizer and removed it. Where would the changes be made and is there a way for me to check?
Thanks all for the responses
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 30 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fred3606 wrote:
I have checked the battery voltage while it is clicking and it's a healthy 11.6V.


Shocked Shocked

Thats not healthy.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 30 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried using a screwdriver to bypass the high current side of the solenoid?
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Fred3606
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 01 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would the high current side of the solenoid be the O/W and Y/B wires? I checked the voltage at O/W wire and it was around 10V.
Forgive my electrical knowledge, it's a little lacking.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 01 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

No the starter solenoid.....
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Fred3606
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 25 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
I realise a lot of time has passed, I'm gonna get it to a garage but the problem has changed a bit and wondered if anyone has anything to add.
After taking off the back plastics and fiddling around the fuel pump now whirrs and seems to prime normally (probably not for long). However when I tried to start it it wouldn't.
The battery voltage is 11.6V, when I hold the starter it seems to start to turn over for 0.1sec then the speedo goes out for half a second then it starts to turn over but it doesn't sound that strong and won't start.

Thanks
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:53 - 25 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A healthy resting (no load) battery voltage should be 12.6v.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 25 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fred3606 wrote:
Would the high current side of the solenoid be the O/W and Y/B wires? I checked the voltage at O/W wire and it was around 10V.
Forgive my electrical knowledge, it's a little lacking.


The B/Y and O/W wires carry the current that energises the relay - the coil they connect to is an electromagnet. When current is applied, the coil energises and the magnetic field it generates pulls an armature in which in turn closes the contacts and allows current to flow to whatever it's controlling.

You should be seeing a healthy 12.6v at the coil (non-grounded side) when it's energised. If you're seeing 10v then the battery isn't performing.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:29 - 26 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, battery knackered or loose terminal connection. Put jump leads on it and try again.

Aldo on the -ve side of the battery should be 2 blck wires siamesed together. Follow the thinner of the pair until you find a plastic connector. Pull it apart and inspect the condition. Should be a single large spade and they often corrode.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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