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Suzuki GSR600 (2008) won't start ☹️

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colinM
Two Stroke Sniffer



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PostPosted: 15:11 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Suzuki GSR600 (2008) won't start ☹️ Reply with quote

I'm having an issue with my bike I had to get it towed at the weekend because it wouldn't start.

The main headlight high/low is not working and the bike won't start (no ignition, it won't even try) I've charged the battery up. I think there's a short on the high and low beam fuses they are both connected to gnd. I've lifted the tank and disconnected every plug and connector I can find. left and right controls, dash etc.. but this gnd short is still there. The negative of the battery terminal has a connector coming from it that goes into the writing harness (gnd)

if I disconnect that , the gnd on the harness side is what's connected to the headlights.

I have a writing diagram but these should ask be positive connections I don't see a point which they would intersect.

Any tips on how to solve this issue
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry but you're painting a confusing picture:

Is the bike entirely dead? As in turn the ignition on there's no neutral light or anything else.

If the bike isn't entirely dead what is working? Does the fuel pump prime, does the starter relay click... anything at all.
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colinM
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PostPosted: 19:35 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Sorry but you're painting a confusing picture:

Is the bike entirely dead? As in turn the ignition on there's no neutral light or anything else.

If the bike isn't entirely dead what is working? Does the fuel pump prime, does the starter relay click... anything at all.


Thanks for the reply any input is welcome two heads are better than one and all that.

Everything works except the main beam which should be on when the ignition is on (bulb is ok). There is no relay click..I have removed the starter relay and confirmed that it works by applying 12v from a power supply. There are no error codes and I've checked the safety cut outs (when triggered an error code appears on the console) the fuel pump primes (I can hear it) everything appears normal but it won't start.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wiring diagram you've posted is for a different model and 7 yrs older at that.
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colinM
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 23 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
The wiring diagram you've posted is for a different model and 7 yrs older at that.


I've just realized that as the immobilizer isn't on it.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 24 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've checked sidestand, tipover, clutch and emergency switches?

Have you pulled the fuses for the lighting circuit and tried?
If there's a short on the lighting circuit it should have blown the fuse.

From what you describe everything works apart from lights and it lights the dash like it's good to go but won't spin the starter. Try tapping the starter a few times.

There's a 30A fuse for that usually located near the battery for the starter. Check battery main connections too. These can be loose enough for low power stuff but not tight enough to give the amps for the starter.

If it is fuses, you'll need to trace the cause or there's a chance you'll be stranded again.
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colinM
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 24 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
You've checked side stand, tip-over, clutch and emergency switches?

Have you pulled the fuses for the lighting circuit and tried?
If there's a short on the lighting circuit it should have blown the fuse.

From what you describe everything works apart from lights and it lights the dash like it's good to go but won't spin the starter. Try tapping the starter a few times.

There's a 30A fuse for that usually located near the battery for the starter. Check battery main connections too. These can be loose enough for low power stuff but not tight enough to give the amps for the starter.

If it is fuses, you'll need to trace the cause or there's a chance you'll be stranded again.


I checked the side stand, tip-over, clutch and stop switch at the side of the road (they give a check warning on the dash)

Pulled all the fuses and checked continuity to ground, all check ok except the lights, seems to be a 0 ohm short on one side of both high and low. I pulled the bulb and checked the continuity and voltage at that end also only 0.5-1v getting to the bulb.

I bought a replacement starter relay.. it was of poor quality so I put the original back on, after checking it (it has a separate 30a) fuse on it. I checked that with a power supply takes 12v and an amp or two to trigger.

It's just an assumption but my thinking is whatever's pulling the lights down to 1v is what's also causing it not to trigger the starter relay.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 24 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

colinM wrote:


I checked the side stand, tip-over, clutch and stop switch at the side of the road (they give a check warning on the dash)

Pulled all the fuses and checked continuity to ground, all check ok except the lights, seems to be a 0 ohm short on one side of both high and low. I pulled the bulb and checked the continuity and voltage at that end also only 0.5-1v getting to the bulb.

I bought a replacement starter relay.. it was of poor quality so I put the original back on, after checking it (it has a separate 30a) fuse on it. I checked that with a power supply takes 12v and an amp or two to trigger.

It's just an assumption but my thinking is whatever's pulling the lights down to 1v is what's also causing it not to trigger the starter relay.


It's not necessarily a short that's causing the voltage drop. A high resistance joint or connector could do the same.

It could also prevent the starter relay from engaging.

Have you measure the voltage at the battery when you try to start it or switch the lights on? A high resistance cell could give you a normal reading under no load - it would drop the instant a load was applied to it.
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colinM
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 24 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:

It's not necessarily a short that's causing the voltage drop. A high resistance joint or connector could do the same.

It could also prevent the starter relay from engaging.

Have you measure the voltage at the battery when you try to start it or switch the lights on? A high resistance cell could give you a normal reading under no load - it would drop the instant a load was applied to it.


I did go round to specifically check how much it draws with no load and with a load (turned on) no load it's about 140ma turned on it's 3.5-4A if I remember correctly but I can't remember if I had the headlight fuses in at that point.. the voltage drops a bit from the fully charged 13v to 12.6 .. I might have to check that again.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 24 May 2021    Post subject: Re: Suzuki GSR600 (2008) won't start ☹️ Reply with quote

colinM wrote:
I'm having an issue with my bike I had to get it towed at the weekend because it wouldn't start.

The main headlight high/low is not working and the bike won't start (no ignition, it won't even try) I've charged the battery up. I think there's a short on the high and low beam fuses they are both connected to gnd. I've lifted the tank and disconnected every plug and connector I can find. left and right controls, dash etc.. but this gnd short is still there. The negative of the battery terminal has a connector coming from it that goes into the writing harness (gnd)

if I disconnect that , the gnd on the harness side is what's connected to the headlights.

I have a writing diagram but these should ask be positive connections I don't see a point which they would intersect.

Any tips on how to solve this issue


That big spade connector on the loom return (the earth) to the battery is often troublesome. They corrode and cause a bad earth, poor charging voltage etc.

Go back to the bulb and re-do your checks. Presumably you put a meter across the spade terminals in the bulb connector? If you did, go back and do this:

Put your meter across the spade terminals again. If you get 1.x volts move the black lead for the tester to the battery negative. If the red lead still shows 1.xv you have a problem with the bulb live feed. If the red lead shows battery voltage you have a problem with the loom earth. Double-check by putting the black lead on the spade terminal for bulb earth and move the RED lead to battery =ve. Now you should read full battery voltage (minus a bit for losses) if the earth is good. If it reads low, you have a loom earth issue.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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colinM
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PostPosted: 08:09 - 25 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give that a try!
I did check the voltage but I didn't check across the spades just from the battery - to the bulb connector. Probably won't get back near it until the weekend unfortunately.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 25 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've put the meter from battery negative to bulb feed terminal and got a low reading then you've got a supply problem.

The closest wiring diagram I can find to it is for a 2007 GSXR750, so here's what to check based on that. Put the black lead of the meter directly on the battery and use the red for testing.

Power from the battery goes to the solenoid then out through the 30A fuse there (via a red wire) to the ignition switch AND directly to fuse 5 and 6 (signal and fan). This is so that the hazards and fan can run with the ignition off.

So if you check the voltage coming in at fuse 5 or 6 and it shows battery voltage then all that section is good.


That red wire feeds the ignition switch and with the switch on it comes out via the orange wire which feeds fuses 3 and 4 (as well as feeding the RH switch cluster).

So, turn the ignition on and check the voltage feeding fuse 3 or 4. If it is 12-13v then the ignition switch is good.


Now that orange wire feeding fuses 3 and 4 also feeds the headlights via the starter button. When the button is not pushed, the switch is closed and the lights will be on. When you push the button the circuit is broken and the lights go out to reduce the load on the battery when cranking.

Since you say that your bike won't crank and that the lights won't work one would suspect that the problem is within the push-button switch for starting the engine inside the right switch cluster.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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GettinBetter
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 25 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good post Pete....Had that with my last bike.

Has the OP recently fitted any addition front lights to the bike?
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colinM
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 25 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bike is 100% standard.
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colinM
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 25 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
If you've put the meter from battery negative to bulb feed terminal and got a low reading then you've got a supply problem.

The closest wiring diagram I can find to it is for a 2007 GSXR750, so here's what to check based on that. Put the black lead of the meter directly on the battery and use the red for testing.

Power from the battery goes to the solenoid then out through the 30A fuse there (via a red wire) to the ignition switch AND directly to fuse 5 and 6 (signal and fan). This is so that the hazards and fan can run with the ignition off.

So if you check the voltage coming in at fuse 5 or 6 and it shows battery voltage then all that section is good.


That red wire feeds the ignition switch and with the switch on it comes out via the orange wire which feeds fuses 3 and 4 (as well as feeding the RH switch cluster).

So, turn the ignition on and check the voltage feeding fuse 3 or 4. If it is 12-13v then the ignition switch is good.


Now that orange wire feeding fuses 3 and 4 also feeds the headlights via the starter button. When the button is not pushed, the switch is closed and the lights will be on. When you push the button the circuit is broken and the lights go out to reduce the load on the battery when cranking.

Since you say that your bike won't crank and that the lights won't work one would suspect that the problem is within the push-button switch for starting the engine inside the right switch cluster.


This is very helpful! Funny you should mention about the hazards as they work, but not with the bike off ..I was sure they worked before with the ignition off.
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colinM
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 28 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all for your help and suggestions.

Pete you were spot on, the push start was the culprit.

I've removed it and the contacts were all tarnished also the plastic was a little warped, after cleaning with a fiberglass pencil, smoothing off the lump in the plastic and cleaning with Alcohol it's still playing up.

I can't find a replacement part, however I can find some gsxr ones slightly different (different connector) but I may be able to use the actual switch mechanism. It's that or I find an aftermarket start switch and light switch. Which might not be so bad as being able to turn off the main headlight could be useful (topping up low batteries etc)
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 28 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good excuse to fit a quick action throttle...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283635952247?var=0
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colinM
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 28 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Good excuse to fit a quick action throttle...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283635952247?var=0


Stupid question.. does the throttle handle and cables fit into this ?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 28 May 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

colinM wrote:
Thanks all for your help and suggestions.

Pete you were spot on, the push start was the culprit.

I've removed it and the contacts were all tarnished also the plastic was a little warped, after cleaning with a fiberglass pencil, smoothing off the lump in the plastic and cleaning with Alcohol it's still playing up.

I can't find a replacement part, however I can find some gsxr ones slightly different (different connector) but I may be able to use the actual switch mechanism. It's that or I find an aftermarket start switch and light switch. Which might not be so bad as being able to turn off the main headlight could be useful (topping up low batteries etc)


Some steel wool or a fine wire brush should clean those contacts up nicely.
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