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Royal Enfield Bullet 612cc project

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jimspeed
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Joined: 05 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 28 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awsome, I've always had a soft spot for Enfields and I've followed this project for ages so it's good to see the outcome of your hard work, infact its inspired me to buy myself one Smile
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"
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BusterGonads
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Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 11:23 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You deserve a medal for all this work. I dread to think what it has cost, but it looks and sounds brilliant. I know someone who did the 612 conversion. The oil pump drive stripped and it blew the crank up. He bought a Triumph and the Enfield has become a museum piece.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers.

Just gone over 1000 miles now.It conked out the other day, I landed up getting the AA out (had no tools with me). Turned out to be water shorting out the ignition switch. Easy fix.

Oil pumps are a known issue. It's why I was particularly anal about getting mine lapped in and relieved so it was running very smoothly with thumb pressure. Also why I fitted a scavenge pump pressure relief valve from the get-go.

There isn't really anything other than a blocked oilway that should be able to put any significant load onto that pump now.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 12 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

So. One real nioggle with this bike has been the clutch. It slips at apeed. It was never designed for this amount of power/torque and even with stronger springs and an extra plate, it's just not man-enough for the job.

So throw money at the problem until it goes away. Cue a phone call to Bob Newby. I already had a compatible clutch hub which came with the close ratio gearbox making the rest of the clutch a mere £400. Pale I could have gone full idiot and ordered a dry clutch with belt primary but I already splurged on a brand new primary chain and it would make altering the engine gearing very difficult.

At least it looks the part!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eBsIfo8_x7vXF_hHweQvr86LxS4cz_Wg65a1NZvp-EgqjiaALf9W-kCeLuh3NYtX280h9RDL7jOx1ujjCLQQdWNlaw_RUZWBljQoAQbRF5YVFeEk4XgaeajyxnN22swbdHZNCdm6LyI25iAUJkIKJI=w1155-h866-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dafylqsRJqn36kIQwZUlQVcEwxCWO0t5ZhAh70R9OxLQgOvD9Yj2_4tTAaagUIKEdTbcbxEiNHiZHzmWxao_oaRei9nHaYkrZJxmBjTl3yw6fJjfIn0O6MsyRVKR3hySjqMhionFR_WC1OY7e-vnLK=w1155-h866-no

Normal looking friction plates.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fMdyiBmVK2q0z2LIsGTkIjDIHyhIRnQP5Vn34UUuFCdNLg2QF6pAkkt2WcI-SV61GBBYV1ai474EDWGW6-rMzdpUofvfp2xzhmUyXDOJKmokFylsG3ftdeqgVGQdXozpGQzLx8j_iyU04U69rGFdVe=w1155-h866-no

The plain plates are funky as hell, presumably CNC/waterjet cut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dIM2aClIN2ND2sWL5hRbdlx5BpFsayhn3FfvZGUV4_4EoXlkHg7Z0k50mzXfvLpM7iNrx_EPKhz0Tb8YhlQe3nGmkhuiSIHKyuYESFZgH7nf1QCNUUOTvdRxrzDIFFMQF7aDH8xIHZVuOU3wTCbjWs=w1155-h866-no

Basket in was childsplay thanks to the windy-gun.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eLImXNxo9sPBBHjdN161GnXZW9_6YtMuFKmbTemKKLN8rtkzstGH1FaVK6u7u1fmkbwL4SirPyvCaTHR35SYk9LaZLBTWw_3Mv5RTTMDoy9nWe-Br3WH1wGNTe5LQbxKWWTwVMbKHKtB3ZcTXlSLp1=w1155-h866-no

New pushrod required. I still had some EN8 1/4" rod left from the last lot. No silly little top-hat thing, one end pushes against a dished adjuster bolt in the pressure plate. So rounded that off with a file and emery paper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cJps1YPokEzqrYk5VLM_2AKbnHZlfggmYbY5hR9SAfa7y0WztKATpDSTzkradgNpNpbD1vT0bhNiT9cqcbPpEIgIFbEBinMBrsgkC_N1FBI2UqLwnXIwcCakxSDISJAmcUwTHylbEbUe9oSjUsvCz1=w1155-h866-no

I was head-scratching how to get the correct length, then I realised I just needed to fit the rod without the centre bolt, mark it then subtract the thickness of the pressure plate.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3epULmiJLFJ5H0Tw4XMwaUvqkuiEMjP1Zsnz4HYSV_PnM_JUsdwSvUSjMzxHOCNWNHzBN8aJUuWNW1l7rlL82E_XRwE8ZyYYt4xX9RnFnVlR9jdHrV_a2CiNm7ZPMs-K1e-CWl_EsoF2B4UOf7gfnzb=w1155-h866-no

Also subtract 1/4" because I'm running a 2-piece pushrod with a ceramic ball bearing between the two pieces to reduce friction and likleyhood of warping/heat transfer.

Having cut it, the ends need hardening because it's rapidly rotating metal-on-metal. yes there's oil there but still. Watching blacksmithing/knife making videos has given me a much better understanding of what i'm doing here. So heated the tip of the rod to non-magnetic, quenched in oil then reheated further back away from the tip to run temper colours along towards the tip so only the very end of the rod is super-hard (and therefore brittle).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cL_dW7KeQm2y4M75XIPWxITdPJaBis6rzS4ZWA-GXIZkm3jCrnPO2BeJqZwlR4UJqN3HyBAc6DoWClQkcIpqDZeheOcXOCUH3ST4uBJIeORb6iJCGCPXNMDPwM8B2zXsrtklx1n2jxbz7cuEpx61am=w1155-h866-no

The cklutch springs are adjustable so I can rack up the tension if it starts slipping. I set it to what felt comfortable at the lever. Made a wee tool to make this easier.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eTymyrqk533L5SZlsuKOeLMoGiglJGjbXlVPKbPb6yNdDeuLejBx1x6Tkb2nPrFz1USMUdkNzbVGJp2UTgqhYhmfp2Cx2E4NgDl1c7Wfo0_q6WbkIkcRXoh8urSH-8HF3vDF8ZWCfmgH5pCwqPwHl8=w1155-h866-no

All fitted and bolted-up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3ebuDYIasa0muSrTHdjVDYCBhkphkoqzVwDI2z3S_J8NXQ4GC6dFhbA0JbyWqQZIK-wu5ON89hCuv7RhG1Ym9nYmK42wdklPATaWKKc3AuzQ0Qg7MzWnnAisrWGOv1T09VlwaUg7n_4zSZNEUoIRH0a=w1155-h866-no

Not tried it yet, it's currently on furlough.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 12 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

As impressive as the home-made pushrod is, is a professionally made one available? I would be uncomfortable dropping £400 on a clutch then breaking it with a home-made part. Same sort of discomfort from rebuilding an engine, but re-using circlips or a thermostat.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 13 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
As impressive as the home-made pushrod is, is a professionally made one available? I would be uncomfortable dropping £400 on a clutch then breaking it with a home-made part. Same sort of discomfort from rebuilding an engine, but re-using circlips or a thermostat.


What I've made there is actually better than original rods. It's proper, named steel of an appropriate grade, it's straight and it's been properly hardened. The one I took out of it originally was about as straight as a bananna and had the end dished where it had been wearing against the adjuster, presumably because it was made of monkey-metal.

That said, hardening it was quite probably unecessary, EN8 is pretty hard as it comes and would surface harden itself to a degree if it started getting a lot of friction on the contact surface. So I suspect all it really needed was a rod of the right length in 1/4" bar

If you buy a Newby clutch kit from Hitchcocks at £££, it comes with a 2-piece pushrod. It has square ends and a steel ball. The cermic one was my idea. I inspected the one that's been in there for 2,500 miles now and it was pristine. I suspect a certyain percentage would need modifying anyway, there are differences in manufacture of engines over the years and this is a place where four seperate engine parts (each of which could have slight variations) are bolted together in a not very precise manner. Crankcase, primary drive case, gearbox outer cover and mainshaft. If I loosened the bolts, I could physically wiggle all these parts about in relation to one another.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 13 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

EN8 is one step up from EN3 mild steel in that it has just enough carbon to be called a medium carbon steel, but it is supplied soft and also turns like dogshit or worse than mild, and likes to tear. En8 will not "surface harden itself" , but it is adequate. If you have the ability harden the full length and give it a decent hot temper as, if the original bent, I doubt soft en8 would stand any better.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 21 Jun 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did 350 miles this weekend. The new clutch performed flawlessly and with about half the pull weigth of the original, gear shifts are slick(er), can stop at lights with the clutch in without crabbing and no slippage at all.

Was cruising at 80mph. I think it's geared a touch high though. Could do with a 20t front. I'll only change the 21t when it's worn down to a nub though because you have to remove the whole prinary drive to swap it out.

Only two things fell off. Another bar end weight (gorilla glue for the next one!) and for some reason the sidestand spring (fencing wire to the rescue).

Also has an odd fault which threw up a problem with my wiring design. The battery came loose and pulled the terminal off. It must have been sparking before it did so and popped the fuse. All the lights stil work with the engine running though. I now realise this is because the generator self-excites so the ignition has nothing to do with the battery and the charging current feeds in upstream of the fuse on the other side of the ammeter (so you can tell if it's charging).

Good because the lights still worked and my plan to seperate the lighting and ignition circuits came together. Bad because a short in the lighting system could cause a fire. Easy fix, I need to fit another fuse the other side of the ammeter.

I'm excusing myself because I based the loom on a standard bullet loom, they would do this too if it wasn't for the fact that the ignition is powered from the battery so the fuse blowing would kill the engine.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 08 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm.

Was looking closely at the front wheel today.

It all looks ok from a distance:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cQx1P4uwe69FpoNcnovWNNUyJLLU7lPPK-_nZTYaSoaqCM8l4f7pS1aVp-ZUDjCGmjSMZW_qpWaQsHdMaYppEpHm4JVV8YMn64pKhsQY2Zo0S2CkFr-epDvjjyrIX0bgi3TKIa7ru4Y9dgsL8W5U5i=w1155-h866-no

A closer look shows there is something very odd with the spoking. Some of the spokes enter the nipples at an odd angle and there is a lot of unused thread sticking out of some of them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dgw7-2Qfl06sBge52PkkRvSdAXYGsHRJUbTE8JSdTX6EROlBOdle8sIEVmgdQRPhRQdCHjhU5CBhwfJgFZEakVZiMevxCF5vGI6ItDlxgSe2v5S35j52ZZ2461avN9zS-Gs-KjygArK_-gXCxqY65U=w1155-h866-no

Ordinarily, these would be the first two spokes you fit...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3f7NAf956i7yWbccFfoeyXPZi7i3ls4jWVpMgmqlN7oUSrU82g33E6cvrdX049BNUu5H68OXjGoiRnY8vpJBIbIbtD0Kt0x26rNlWT9gH7drijl6W2ckJ45WjDmgqkT_Zdr9Pi9h5heTriwWIjeOxtn=w1155-h866-no

Not at all happy with this. It's straight and true but with the forces in a spoked wheel, it's a recipe for disaster. I'm not sure what's going on. The lacing pattern LOOKS ok but something is amiss. Looking at other wheels, there seem to be no two laced exactly the same regarding crossover however that shouldn't really be affecting the angle they strike the rim at.

There are two different length spokes in these wheels so it may be that whoever laced this got them mixed up OR someone has laced a drum brake rim onto a disc brake hub (the drilling angles are different).

The spokes on this wheel are stainless which means it's either off an export spec bike for the UK market (which are usually pretty good) or a home-built wheel. Whoever built it has got the tension and true correct so it wasn't made by a total idiot, it is however not something I'm happy doing an emergency stop from 85mph on.

I'm going to take it off, measure the dish then dismantle it and re-lace it myself. If it's still not right, I'll just buy a good used wheel off Hitchcocks because they come in at the same price as a stainless rim by itself.

It's passed two MOTs like this.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided I'm not happy with the wiring. I've had a couple of annoying shorts where the fuse popped and cut the lighting, just on sidelight bulb holders.

I also realised I needed two fuses, one each side of the ammeter because of the self-exciting nature of the alternator. The spark continues with a blown main fuse so the alternator carrys on feeding power into the lights.

This kind of pointed me in the direction of not really needing a battery at all. It was running the lights and flashers with a blown main fuse anyway.

Electrex world do a smoothing capacitor designed to help provide a stable 12V output from the alternator in place of a battery. The lights won't work with the engine off but it fills in highs and lows in the voltage curve. It's cheap and considerably smaller than a battery.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3cYlVYkFvAuSQX1NeFfezDX390Rhwhih2wzMab-Fbm1gy9GqrMLaqBISF8q9oWMIa4GIHhwfrhBtSWcR66osNcP2cke8QSgz7vwO7vyIMSkAqLWWzlRufO3wtAGyX-RSFiFUWyoNiPw0tnszp2vK1g3=w1711-h962-no

Removing the battery means I don't need a battery box. I can move most of the wiring into one of the toolboxes and remove the "tea caddy" air filter box I was using for holding the wiring. I don't have a good "before" picture but this shows the rough setup.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eEv7XteaCJuGByT2jMNOZGaQwy4K5cIbifzq3XxcHKedC9nsuvozXfkOu7RLGdjPEOMSiKwTKzXgIbAuwdFIFU6W5ADp5Pgw9XuCXYayA8g0r-ihdmDE38YPNKGF9RJUBBeXLxOa4pZhg2O_1SpQ3e=w1283-h962-no

So a considerable amount of re-routing, I left enough length on the wires to do this. They were a sod to thread through the rubber grommet into the toolbox though! I've moved the CDI, flasher relay and the capacitor into the toolbox. I've left the reg-rec bolted to the metal mudguard for heat sinking. Stil a bit of a rats nest but actually less complex and neater than it was before.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fM3tdT51RvgCtGy67aRL-d34QohX6hpU3PNcqk1TIy-Jr63ljhcXCO3dyv6Ladd1mM-al1DBagONimIbTUMWpvixGxG8iT9iwD5RGSMYYSGpbHzYNKkZvp5JpGKgHMdk5pnhQj76p2rIWLPGfwaWsO=w1711-h962-no

So there are now 4 "clusters" going into and out of the toolbox. The main multicore loom, the feed from the alternator, the wires to the rec/rec and the taillight sub-loom. I've routed the orange wire carrying the spark separately for redundancy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eikEKo86rmIGPO4_sAi7Xp3TP7OUHNVhuDqBWfzlPlZlKh_JVN_Ty1B1_Xldok4I1PvGV4uI2tcy4a-xQ3mXk-csXjsKAZLAThjDFy4_5o4TgVsxomTHPdZgsFojyUq5YFqlva5nPFxTAKn7FwJ7-_=w1711-h962-no

Obviously the battery box can now be removed. Cleaner lines, simpler wiring, less to go wrong.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fLJwEQW-joSSQRW60o_8cVdYjP_7JEuqrtmDDyl81ICZkpOMokv3V81wjEKPSdIZdd2JnkQ3gpLwsSpokfKZHHo3xh2hcfMRzymKyoljjE-0p4Gvj55lpShzbkaMLwOY7CsDzejmOilLwiw_Ipz7b4=w1711-h962-no

Tank is off to let me fit a pingel fuel tap in readiness for a mikuni flatslide carb being fitted. I think the overall fuel flow has been holding it back. I'm also fed up with having to fuck about with the carb every time I want to ride it, a mikuni shoul dbe fit and forget (once it's jetted right). Carb's been on order since the start of February though!

May even get a bit of dyno work done once the carb is something close to set up.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah. I never updated the wheel thing.

It was fine, there was still plenty of thread in the nipples, they'd just been lazy and had used one length of spoke where they should really have used two.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

but they look bent and like you said, enter the rim at weird angles - is that normal??
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

trevor saxe-coburg-gotha wrote:
but they look bent and like you said, enter the rim at weird angles - is that normal??


Seems that way. The holes in the nipples aren't necessarily directly in the centre of the nipple. They all came up to tension ok when I re-built it. With hindsight, I should have replaced the nipples. That said, it's a solid wheel, I'm happy with it as-is for functionality.

One day I might build a fancy alloy rim onto it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:48 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't sweat the wiring, it's no worse than what's lurking inside most headlamp buckets Smile

OCD requires wrapping the loom though Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:57 - 23 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. It turns out the "old" electrex reg/recs (RR215) do not work with the capacitors.

Not only do they not work, they fail to work very badly. Took the bike to the MOT last week and by the time I got there my head and tail LED bulbs had failed.

When I got home, I checked the charging system and it was going over 20V at higher revs, not regulating at all.

In defference to electrex, it was never designed or recommended to be used like this. After a couple of helpful and informative emails, it turns out, that particular reg/rec is NOT a DC regulator. It's a halfwave rectifier and AC regulator (there is an optional AC output for direct lighting). So basically what Japanese 125s had up to the mid 90's. It relies on there being a battery in the system to regulate the voltage and normally only uses a split charging phase for the DC output.

So scrub £50 worth of LED bulbs!

I've fitted their single phase reg/rec (RR120) and iut's nailed the voltage to 14.6v maximum.

Unfortunately, I think I might also have fried one or both of the charging coils but the ignition is still working flawlessly.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 09:47 - 24 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those forks off an Electra?

I have a box full of untested slightly used stators (3 and 4 wire) if you need one you can have one for postage cost.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 24 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
Those forks off an Electra?

I have a box full of untested slightly used stators (3 and 4 wire) if you need one you can have one for postage cost.


The forks are off one of the UCE 500 models. A pre 2014 B5 as I recall, which has threaded tops on the fork legs and the old-school stay-mounted mudguards. Could've fited fork shrouds with it but i think the gaiters look more sporty.

It's an abortion of a design, there's no actual way of unscrewing them once they are screwed on without gripping the outside of the stanchion itself. I've pre-emptively bought a fairly sturdy alloy clamp designed for attaching steering dampers in anticipation of this being a near impossible task.

Thanks for the offer of stators however it's an electrex crank mounted ignition/lighting system I've got on there.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 28 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Techy bods confirm stator is dead. It's putting out JUST enough to run the side, tail and brake lights so I can still bimble about in daylight while I'm awaiting a replacement to come in stock.

Anyway. I still have a grand plan to go touring in the Picos on it in October and for that it's going to need a luggage rack. I'm hoping to travel really light and just take a tail pack but might want to use throwovers. I'm currently sitting them on the mudguard but it's not ideal, a rack will stop them sliding back and forwards and I can make my own rack with my throwovers in mind so they have somewhere to rest.

First step is a rectangular frame. I got some 12.7mm o/d x 1.22mm wall ERW steel tube. Pretty sure that's actually 1/2" x 16g. Most of the straight metric stuff is 2mm wall thickness which is a bit too heavy and I'm not convinced I'm man enough to cold set it.

First step was to flatten one end, fill it with silver sand, pack it down well with a rod and hammer then flatten the other end. This should stop it kinking.

I cut out a form from plywood, anchored the tube downb with cable ties and started to bend it round the form by hand. It turns out the cable ties aren't strong enough with this thicker bar, I've done 10mm x 1mm bar like this before but they did hold it in place.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVlJEPOeH5x4Bg5-6eBLgwPcIJByxsjxgfs4IwV18cScRrVIaF4Y385CRqDwLczpImZV4ht_eahx4LZcmV42htWcxjHf-s4hz6KnOzN7PujspRLiHmk1CtSDq7hnORThW2nOKgC6o5JPPvDRAAp4xbA=w1576-h886-no

I eventually found that using a couple of clamps worked well. One to hold the end down and the other gradually moved round near the "working" end as I made the bends.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUbg1biypIWXdi6IbBrPCQem8fEF64viLxXlb3nH60th0dxpLGs-xzqbHwBHUm_g3GKXAAKFO1ndY1ALpb1mb8F4GUkh4mywHpULh18yHbchPUwkHprAN-mcY0b9EVcVn9HKC2ihFBmuWsJO6TCpsgy=w1576-h886-no

As you can see, there is a certain amount of spring-back. You'd ideally make your curves in the form about 80 degrees if you want to finish with a 90 degree bend. I've been here before and decided that using a whole form was a better plan because it at least puts the bends in the right place which is hard to do if you're setting them one at a time round an acute curve.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUkMo_G_TgzxWTOebKX0W124YuRcaE0FAtw34EJpiPpig9Lj40fWAsYBeyjFZ9JjpKGymZV2o5QeY2NT8zOkVM2pI-u0tMaJAH08DTBkxiYPZL-O2vUwuB5Oqx0mrs1BcDrgi9mYMQqVcv-GAFkzV1l=w1576-h886-no

I decided this was close enough and I could fenagle the curves a bit tighter by hand after it was mostly there but another way would be to make a single 80 degree bend and finish the set over that once the main shape is dialled in.

Here's what I landed up with.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWyvu74t5ylZWgDM61RA5sz9kyLWFI_X2r_tW-b0vsgEZUPl7iMTq2qtlIJSB_N6eyw6o-bKuIstzuc_G_q07CclmKKoheFqJ8Lwsv8krw5Z9-Ot0DcqgxirIiN90bnVVGcuRMsIBrJeXyxbUijXYfv=w1576-h886-no

I reckon that's not a bad effort. I'll cut the ends so they meet flush in the middle, press in a slug of solid bar and braze the ends. I've deliberately overbent that end so the cut ends will be springing together somewhat when they meet square.

Next step will be drilling a 1/2" hole through the side of a piece of the bar so I have curved ends to braze the "legs" to the frame. I haven't decided if I'll make the cross-pieces from round bar or flat yet... Or maybe even make leather/canvas straps with brass rivetts like a camp chair.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 28 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Techy bods confirm stator is dead. It's putting out JUST enough to run the side, tail and brake lights so I can still bimble about in daylight while I'm awaiting a replacement to come in stock.


Mic the wire gauge, buy a reel of enamelled wire and re-wind that sucker. There's no magic involved just so many turns of so-and-so gauge wire. Bind it tight, bit of potting and you're good.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 28 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:

Mic the wire gauge, buy a reel of enamelled wire and re-wind that sucker. There's no magic involved just so many turns of so-and-so gauge wire. Bind it tight, bit of potting and you're good.


Nothing to lose giving it a try, although the newer replacement is a bit different, not set up for a split AC lighting circuit, just straight single-phase DC.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 29 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. It turns out the AC/DC stator is not compatible with any meaningful level of DC output. Pretty much just enough to power the accessories intermittantly with some charging time inbetween.

While it looks like all the lights have been working so far, the single DC coil only puts out a trickle that can't keep up with even the 25W I'm askng of it. It's just been running the headlight off the charged battery all this time.

It's possible to re-wind the stator so it only has a much more powerful, single phase DC output. I'm just not sure on the windings/directions.

I've asked this as a question in another thread: https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=4770624#4770624
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 29 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I take it you have metered the individual coils and checked them to earth?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 29 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
I take it you have metered the individual coils and checked them to earth?


Yeah. It's weirder than you'd imagine.

There was different coil resistance to earth through both outputs. I assumed this meant it was dead but that's not it at all.

The AC lighting output consisted of three coils in series at 90 degree intervals connected to earth with an AC regulator. The charging output was a single coil wrapped over the top of one of the lighting coils, earthed through the lighting coil and halfwave rectified. The original reg/rec wasn't actually a reg/rec. It was an AC regulator shunting to earth with a diode for an unregulated, halfwave DC output.

Never seen a setup like it. I only found this out when I stripped it. It'll give a fairly hefty AC output for lighting and an incredibly weedy charging output. It's not compatible with LED bulbs or a capacitor. It also wasn't charging my battery as fast as the LED headlamp was discharging it, it would have needed the lamp on for about 4 hours to discharge the battery though.

Going to re-wind it so there are three coils in series feeding into a conventional single phase reg/rec. The output will be dirty as hell but it should work with the topmost of my proposed setups here:.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXQFSyN4ufht9KSKzC1SkDGiboJcG7spq5bwogo2vG4M-yjccmCRG2ohrv978v9WsSB1NG-Y57jAp4YpTVZmU4jbJSkZMqxnQDafHp0Qg3s8TGpoEbSLpXlsr6qVNzbEcv0n7XquNl51jyXIEO6ZU6p=w499-h886-no
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 18 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rewound stator works. Output is still a bit weedy so I'll either need more capacitors or to go back to a battery to smooth it out a bit. Functioning lights though which is the important thing.

Did 600 miles on it last week. Had one flat front tyre for no immediately apparent reason which fixed with a can of spray foam.

About 200 miles in, I noticed a clattering noise after not putting my earplugs in. When I chacked the tappets, I found another bent pushrod! (Best Daily Mail sadface)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVpciOkDgiJKse75Cz4wCAg86ko68e2albPlqjmBMQqy7SYKSR-hg3f_9BsfTMf2mnS5qD7zRketJIk4KYQzCuod-16m7UCNC20TPKEKi8OjkJfUquPWhhJMJKxfYQLOdqqKx9J-Uf2It67ZCbhH7Hh=w499-h886-no

Handily, I was camping only half an hour from Hitchcocks motorcycles so I was able to get a lift in for a replacement. They reckon it was most likely a result of backfires on startup rather than thrashing. I've got the ignition timing dialled in properly now having bought a new strobe so that issue is hopefully sorted.

Overall very pleased. It's sitting at about 75 on the motorway and that's not particularly stressing the engine with the gearing I have. It used hardly any oil on the journey and was returning 75mpg on average!

There's more power in the engine, I've currently got 7.5mm of compression plates and three base gaskets in there just now. It seemed prudent to keep it in a soft state of tune until niggles are sorted out. If/when my mikuni carb comes, I'll get that set up and then think about taking one of the compression plates out to give it a bit more hooligan factor.

Todays job was finishing off the luggage rack. My brazing is improving. I needed to worrry more about getting the piece up to temperature quickly and less about using a reducing flame. I was getting more oxidisation by taking ages to warm the piece than I was by having the MAPP torch turned up a bit more.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLURLG9oV8pnsPN2TgE5YEfrf-Meyt9aSu5TNLPY3Q09WzBcxPbmtgxCp6VswXKg3mx6qZMgQJjW9vF3Ph2CNal8qG3doh7zmD6p4sBGRsX-2OnsVyOljQ6B4imOMnBmNPdfoknSyZJt1tTc6bzNUg45=w1576-h886-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVFjPxssg1Vc6fmYmpMCcuUn_5ckx5sQ1LzJy3vuX-TU6Hxl43rZN3VXIPN9wyGvX8LIBY_cs-5KHFE7d3mkABCcvwsPPMhNOZxdO3aKxYaikJVy_hgUUEWuQiN3h00POpUUnhFQIbGO9FhV1IWdxGU=w499-h886-no

This was made with my ortleib panniers in mind.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXNrsirMD1eeQirn48lidNp-wAF9FtBly7ehfxTweu3vNog8ZDXiezLMaDiAIsYhuRsdjxwadTMEmQ3i2rHhj1EdR4Y18bp7aZWF8ZdIOz6LT1whwc1bPZBFGQy4B1rqzrpWbgBf_jSxSnE74iNJUYD=w499-h886-no

I'm not sure if I want bars across it or straps. I've temporarily rivetted on some webbing straps to see how I get on when I'm away this weekend. If they work out well, I'll paint it then replace the straps with either canvas or leather rivveted at one side and with some nice figure of eight buckles to tension them. If they don't, I'll add some cross-pieces. The resulting rack weighs in at about half the weight of a standard bullet rack and is bothy longer and wider.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVO8eSZ6NCCBpmiVNb3sXrWIUlOHTFvMtgIjO22ihR5dEzM7Ipm2MCkMn9JTdtVbIpsFXuiE6t7A3cEs5YOx8iginGpvhVwroB66qk23Cc8FE7owkp2ykdSHZUcw1sF04IlD2wDRyrzY2YcVtSe_qvY=w499-h886-no
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 18 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

"We found 324 videos of Bent Rod"

inb4 ste Wink

Nice work on the racking. Are you just using MAPP gas or MAPP + oxygen? I only managed to get my torch hot enough for silver solder Thinking
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