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Unable to remove exhaust header nuts.

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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 09 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just out of interest, the pics seem to show the nuts were rusted but still accepting of a socket.

So given the studs ends are corroded, why not just use the locked nut to wind out the exhaust studs?

Were the studs also seized?
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sapstar
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 11 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:
Just out of interest, the pics seem to show the nuts were rusted but still accepting of a socket.

So given the studs ends are corroded, why not just use the locked nut to wind out the exhaust studs?

Were the studs also seized?

The picture was taken as a reference before trying to remove the nuts. I did spray WD40 and wipe out some of the excess rust from the nuts and the bolt. Anyways I ended up getting the work done at a garage now as I didn't want to risk damaging anything.
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sapstar
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 16 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

This doesn't seem to be going well at all for me Sad.

I went to the garage today with exhaust gaskets and new nuts (The garage fitted the rusted nuts back last week). They changed the gaskets and were only able to replace 1 nut. For the remaining three, the nuts weren't moving and the whole studs came out... Sad

They finished the job now. No exhaust leak with the gaskets in, and all seems to be working well. But the rusted nuts are still there... Is there any point replacing the studs now?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 16 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

sapstar wrote:

They finished the job now. No exhaust leak with the gaskets in, and all seems to be working well. But the rusted nuts are still there... Is there any point replacing the studs now?


Sound like it's bothering you as it would me. Since everything is now 'moving' I'd fit new studs. Make your own from some M8 studding for pennies. Loctite the head end and copperslip the f*ck out of the nut end would be my tactic.
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sapstar
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PostPosted: 21:29 - 16 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone knows if these are the right studs?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144136741789?hash=item218f38239d:g:amwAAOSw0S1fQDEA

Would I need to replace the gaskets again to do this job?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 16 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

sapstar wrote:
Anyone knows if these are the right studs?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144136741789?hash=item218f38239d:g:amwAAOSw0S1fQDEA

Would I need to replace the gaskets again to do this job?


Looks good. It's one of those parts that doesn't change much over the years.

Shouldn't need to do the gaskets if you do them one at a time. Don't over-tighten them!
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sapstar
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 16 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found another one on ebay. This one is stainless steel. Cheaper... and probably better...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372897528675?hash=item56d26cbb63:g:ZMMAAOSwEeFVSyhO
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:57 - 16 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

sapstar wrote:
I found another one on ebay. This one is stainless steel. Cheaper... and probably better...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372897528675?hash=item56d26cbb63:g:ZMMAAOSwEeFVSyhO


Nope, stainless undergoes galvanaic corrosion in contact with aluminium alloy and galls the alloy thread. Stick with mild steel and use an anti-seize compound on it.

*awaits shitstorm*
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 00:27 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stainless bolts in Ally head on a Bandit. Snap like twigs if the bike has seen several winters of riding. I once had all eight snap and had to drill them all out.

A4 stainless should stand up better than A2.
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Kris
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PostPosted: 08:42 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What about titanium bolts in an ally head? Are they better than OE steel?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kris wrote:
What about titanium bolts in an ally head? Are they better than OE steel?


Not as strong as (good quality) steel size-for-size, much lighter though. A quick google shows it's also prone to galling threads.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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davebike
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PostPosted: 07:34 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOTHING is better than OEM steel for head to exhaust studs
mild steel is least inclined to stick to the alloy head but fit them with antisize like copper or better alloy slip
Brass nuts are great as an upgrade
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

davebike wrote:
NOTHING is better than OEM steel for head to exhaust studs


I don't thnk the exhaust would stay on if you just used nothing.
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