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Wrangling the Retro - XSR700 Mods

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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 11 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
At 6000 miles I'd only do oil and filter and regular checks.


Well you say that but...

I replaced the foot pegs not long ago and that necessitated taking off the gear shift pedal, most of the grease had long gone Sad
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to v or not to v
Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 21:36 - 11 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
doggone wrote:
At 6000 miles I'd only do oil and filter and regular checks.


Well you say that but...

I replaced the foot pegs not long ago and that necessitated taking off the gear shift pedal, most of the grease had long gone Sad


i've looked at a few Yamaha mt's close up, and the build quality does seem lacking.

id be inclined to give the bike a thorough going over, just for peace of mind.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 11 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
i've looked at a few Yamaha mt's close up, and the build quality does seem lacking.


The engine's solid and that's the main thing. There's a bit less plastic on the XSR - just from the design - plus the faux-aluminium fuel tank vs the plastic shell on the MT07.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 23 Aug 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything's on order, including new spark plugs as a little treat Smile 2x XSR700 oil sump washers = £3.10 on eBay but 10x M14 generic copper sump washers = £4.35 Rolling Eyes

While I got the bike last December I've had a flick through the paperwork and the original owner bought it in June 2016. Nice. Gives me an excuse to service it next month while the weather's still reasonable rather than fumbling in the middle of winter Very Happy
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Contemplating LED headlamps (which I personally quite like.) I had worked out a bracket for a 5 3/4" unit to fit in the OEM bucket but due to the layered nature of 3D printing I can't make something I feel is strong enough. I might revisit the idea by combining with some metal elements but suffice to say the plan seems a lot of hassle Sad

As an alternative I'm contemplating a generic 7" bowl. There's >200mm width available which is relatively standard but consider the depth of the OEM part:

https://i.imgur.com/g0Z7DdE.jpg?1

And this particular generic part - just offered up to get an idea - is one of the deeper ones:

https://i.imgur.com/yfYTNZ6.jpg

Just not happy with all that wiring exposed Thinking
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Day 2 of the major service (Day 1 was dropping the fluids.) Today I will be changing the air filter and spark plugs.

And of course all of that is under the fuel tank:

https://i.imgur.com/RKia9bH.jpg?1

First undoing the two columns hex bolts (2.5 & 3mm) to get the outer shell off. There are two plastic rivets on the front side of the tank. Don't just yank the panels off, ease them off these clips:

https://i.imgur.com/lVbN429.jpg?1

And here we have the actual steel tank:

https://i.imgur.com/y0eZQnq.jpg?1

I suppose it's a nice idea. In the event of some unscheduled horizontal action the panels are easier to replace than getting dents beaten out and the tank repainting. Bit of a faff though, all to get to the main fixings.

Just loosen this one at the from for now:

https://i.imgur.com/Tlb2UKq.jpg?1

These are the main ones at the back:

https://i.imgur.com/UprO5lv.jpg?1

And now we can pivot the tank up a bit to get to the pipes and cable connectors:

https://i.imgur.com/L6VqHqi.jpg?1

Before that though disconnect the breather and drain pipes, front-right:

https://i.imgur.com/6rNfIR6.jpg?1

And whatever this connector is:

https://i.imgur.com/se4R1g9.jpg?1

With those out of the way the tank lifts up a bit easier. There's another electrical connector to unplug and then the fuel line:

https://i.imgur.com/una8oOJ.jpg?1

The red safety clip needs to get slid back and then you can squeeze the square release panels (one on either side) it helps if you have small fingers Smile I put a towel down but hardly any fuel leaked out however if you'd ridden the bike recently there might still be some pressure in there.

And now the big bolt at the front and the tank can come off, helps at this point to have the foresight to let the fuel run low Smile Air box is very easy. I was expecting a breather pipe going to the lid but maybe that's just on the MT07:

https://i.imgur.com/WFtLpa1.jpg?1

Filter's looking grubby at the bottom, note the final screw holding the filter in:

https://i.imgur.com/uR77DPD.jpg?1

Looking at the snorkel we can see why only the bottom of the filter is dirty:

https://i.imgur.com/iggdDqn.jpg?1

AFAIK a Stage 1 airbox mod would be remove the snorkel and Stage 2 is to replace the lid entirely with a bigger air inlet. Something on my list of things to do if I get a flash/tune. Go easy on putting these screws back as it's very easy to overtighten going into plastic!

For the spark plugs you will need: long 14mm socket, a knuckle, a very long extension & a magnetic pickup. If you don't have these things stop now, you have been warned Very Happy

I managed to get to the coil packs and plugs by removing the ECU:

https://i.imgur.com/MoWJvbK.jpg?1

WARNING!!! Disconnect the battery otherwise you might fuck the ECU up.

The coil packs are a bitch to get out. The best tip I found was to twist, wriggle, twist, wriggle... they do pop out eventually. Then you have the logic puzzle of how to get them past all the pipes and cables:

https://i.imgur.com/XPZYIfO.jpg?1

Did I say you needed a long extension to get the plugs out?

https://i.imgur.com/webXzPP.jpg?1

As expected, a bit lean:

https://i.imgur.com/OSDSD9q.jpg?1

50% down to "that's the way we roll" with modern, water-cooled bikes but obviously the exhaust system I fitted isn't helping. Anyhoo, I'd rather throw money at new tyres first before getting the ECU reflashed... not that I'd probably notice the extra ~5bhp anyway Laughing

Slowly working my way through the service schedule. Still have wheel bearings to check, maybe lube the kickstand, etc. Oiling the clutch cable looks straightforward but I might leave the throttle cables - there's a rubber boot over them on the handlebar side so it's not like they exposed to rain. And the other end (at the throttle bodies) is under the airbox Sad
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck me how long are those plugs?
I thought you'd photoshopped them until I googled them !

Don't look that lean to me, look about right IMO

Leds are all very well but I'd suggest considering the amount of power the RegRec will have to burn off.
You might want to see how hot it runs with/without before committing
and remember you're not actually saving energy with leds on a bike with a stator and shunt regulator, just dissipating it in a different way.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Fuck me how long are those plugs?
I thought you'd photoshopped them until I googled them !

Don't look that lean to me, look about right IMO


The last one's I eyeballed were on a 2-stroke so maybe I'm biased and yes not only are they long there's a 3 inch drop to get them in.

Quote:
Leds are all very well but I'd suggest considering the amount of power the RegRec will have to burn off.
You might want to see how hot it runs with/without before committing
and remember you're not actually saving energy with leds on a bike with a stator and shunt regulator, just dissipating it in a different way.


I was going with "the back light is LED, let's make the indicators and headlamp match" rather than power saving but I take your point. One of the things I really like about the XSR is the reg/rec is an exposed "feature" (front left panel) so very easy to check how hot it gets.

As far as I can tell the point of the massively oversized headlamp bucket is to cover/protect the electrics of the ignition both from the weather and overly optimist 'erberts who think they could easily hot-wire it. I'm wonder whether I might cut and form some thin tin sheet metal in lieu of protection if I went with the 7" lamp Thinking
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 21:27 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

just noticed.....

You got a brown seat cover and bar end mirrors...........


https://i.imgur.com/oDxh63p.mp4
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The seat's factory, the bar ends... well there are certain stereotypes one must conform to Shifty
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Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 23:10 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont listen to him, he rides a scooter! Razz
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah but, no but,
bar end mirrors

https://bestanimations.com/media/enterprise/1049634336star-trek-enterprise-picard-animated-gif-2.gif


GHEY!!
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Brolly Dolly



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PostPosted: 23:41 - 17 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


is that Paul Hogan in your display pic? if it is my respect for you will overcome your penchant for scooters Very Happy

my old eyes cant tell.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 08:04 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeez what a bollock ache - worse that changing the plugs on the FZ.. and the same opportunity to drop shite down the holes unsighted.

Agree with WD - plug colour looks fine.

I wonder if you might get more use from the air fllter if you cut down the inner input tube.. Buy another for experimentation? Or drill holes that can be taped over..
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grr666
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PostPosted: 09:01 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
just noticed.....
You got a brown seat cover and bar end mirrors...........

All the best people do.... Wink Laughing
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
I wonder if you might get more use from the air fllter if you cut down the inner input tube.. Buy another for experimentation? Or drill holes that can be taped over..


Actually Yamaha reckon 20,000+ miles from an air filter. I'd imagine that dirt band would creep up as one approached the service life of the filter.

To be clear: the air filter & plug change is not absolutely necessary at the 3rd Service / 6000 mile mark but I thought it couldn't hurt to draw a very fat line across the servicing list. That and I wanted see how hard it actually was to remove the fuel tank. TBH it's only removing the panels that's a chore the actual tank itself is very easy to take off, relative to the Rebel for example.

But anyway, removing the bottom bit would still disturb the airflow and I'd rather buy new tyres next over a retune.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I'll give you a pass on the 'Yamaha made me a ghey' seat Smile
but I honestly do regard bell end... I mean bar end! mirrors as a form over function move.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:04 - 18 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last few bits today: re-grease the pedal pivot bolts, kickstand and oil the cables. (Check tyre pressures which I should have done yesterday.)

As I had the shift pedal off I thought I'd take a look at the front sprocket, not that I was expecting any wear. Yamaha thought red thread-lock appropriate for the sprocket cover for some reason.

https://i.imgur.com/teZlBw7.jpg?1

Ewwwwww! Sick TBH I was expecting this having already replaced the Kwacker & Bonnie front sprockets recently. Thankfully Yamaha make cleaning this area easy as there's a plastic bit around the sprocket that just pulls out:

https://i.imgur.com/CeDrUbt.jpg?1

Much better:

https://i.imgur.com/lYfFr2X.jpg?1

Moving onto the actual pivot bolts the brake and shift pedals are both the same in that they have a little channel to act as a grease reservoir:

https://i.imgur.com/BEwmBFh.jpg?1

And similarly a little channel (that will get covered by a washer) on the arm:

https://i.imgur.com/xQb3iDX.jpg?1

So slap on some grease but not the bolt threads as they want blue thread-lock.

Oh and I wonder if people avoid doing this stuff with the kickstand and brake as getting the return spring back on can be a pain. I highly recommend getting one of these:

https://i.imgur.com/n7AlkqX.jpg?1

Only cost a few quid Smile

This is a handy little gadget to oil the clutch cable:

https://i.imgur.com/wOVZORv.jpg?1

I went with PTFE. Loosen up the clutch cable, squirt some in and work back and forth till it drips out the end (stop sniggering at the back!)

https://i.imgur.com/zOl7bPA.jpg?1

The cable wasn't too bad previously but it fairly glides back and forth now Smile

Throttle assembly is actually pretty easy to take apart:

https://i.imgur.com/3WANVJB.jpg?1

Can't use the special tool to feed in the PTFE but I just filled up the plastic channel and worked the cable, probably wasted loads. BTW while the throttle bodies are pretty inaccessible under the air box the other end of the throttle cables is not, just need to remove this panel...

https://i.imgur.com/Gd7pELk.jpg?1

and...

https://i.imgur.com/oWivbjz.jpg?

Oh ffs Laughing Anyhoo, removing the next panel I checked there was evidence of fresh PTFE and adjusted the throttle slack.

After reassembling the throttle it seemed appropriate to crack open a beer and generally threaten the bike with a set of hex tools ("Check Chassis Fastenings" on service schedule.) Job done for another few years Very Happy

Obviously one would need to go on a test ride to assess the workmanship and it was after all a lovely afternoon. Observations: gear box is more "snick" than "thud" at least going from 2nd upwards. Taking out the slack has made the throttle a lot more precise but next time I start the bike I'd best check there's no rev increase when I turn the handlebars full lock Thinking

Overall everything's just a teeny bit better, a very easy bike to work on bar the spark plugs Laughing
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 25 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Last few bits today: re-grease the pedal pivot bolts, kickstand and oil the cables. (Check tyre pressures which I should have done yesterday.)

As I had the shift pedal off I thought I'd take a look at the front sprocket, not that I was expecting any wear. Yamaha thought red thread-lock appropriate for the sprocket cover for some reason.

https://i.imgur.com/teZlBw7.jpg?1




needs moar weld
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DJP
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PostPosted: 06:52 - 18 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Part 2: The Swing Arm

No one's ever said the MT-07 / XSR700 is deluxe so while the rust spots on the swing arm are unwelcome they're really not bad for the age of the bike apparently...


Get some ACF50 inside the swing arm, they rust for fun.

This was mine after 2 years:
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 18 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

DJP wrote:
Easy-X wrote:
Part 2: The Swing Arm

No one's ever said the MT-07 / XSR700 is deluxe so while the rust spots on the swing arm are unwelcome they're really not bad for the age of the bike apparently...


Get some ACF50 inside the swing arm, they rust for fun.

This was mine after 2 years:


Eeek! I'll check underneath Wait, I've just put on my glasses, for some reason I thought that was an underside view Laughing Almost seems worth stripping the swing arm on Day 1 and getting it powder coated Sad
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