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CBF125 2011 - Issue with gear shifter bolt

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obs.tacle
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 21 Oct 2021
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PostPosted: 15:15 - 13 Nov 2021    Post subject: CBF125 2011 - Issue with gear shifter bolt Reply with quote

Hi all (new here)

I've got an issue with my gear shifter on my CBF125.
Attached is a diagram from BPH - it's the bolt labelled 22.

https://tinyurl.com/b5ucrfth (Link)

I can't tighten this up too much or the pedal won't move - any looser and it unscrews itself over time. I bought a new bolt (22) and washer (16) to try and fix it, but ran into the same issue. I'm sure I'm meant to be able to screw it tight and still have the pedal move freely which makes me think there's a part missing. When I first got it - it looked like it had the remnants of a white soft rubber ring in there. Couldn't tell if it was a bodge or not and I can't tell from any diagrams what bit I need (if any)


For context, the bike has been through the wars and almost nothing has been maintained for 12000 miles - most of which it spent outside. I picked it up a few months ago for £200 and have spent a good bit of time getting it roadworthy - just passed it's MOT - this is the last pain point.

Cheers all.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 13 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tightening up that boltnis supposed to stop the pedal from moving I relation to the shift itsnon. It shouldn't stop thenshaftncrom moving though.

A.drop of loctite will solve your issue though.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
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jaffa90
World Chat Champion



Joined: 06 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 13 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like the No` 1 pivoting lever is an aftermarket one and needs filing narrower so that the pivoting stud is more proud than the pivoting lever.
No` 2 lever is the gear shaft lever and is fixed.

I hope the washer is the correct one and does not slide on the stud as well.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 13 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
It sounds like the No` 1 pivoting lever is an aftermarket one and needs filing narrower so that the pivoting stud is more proud than the pivoting lever.
No` 2 lever is the gear shaft lever and is fixed.

I hope the washer is the correct one and does not slide on the stud as well.


This. ^ The pin the lever pivots on should be marginally longer than the sleeved portion of the lever, it should stick out very slightly when the lever is fully in place. The bolt and washer then tighten down against the pin, not the lever.

If it's sticking out too much, you will get a lot of sideways play, if it's not sticking out enough, it will cause the lever to bind.

As jaffa90 says, the washer should fit over the threads but not the pin. If it fits over the pin too, that's at least part of your problem.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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obs.tacle
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 21 Oct 2021
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PostPosted: 22:29 - 13 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
jaffa90 wrote:
It sounds like the No` 1 pivoting lever is an aftermarket one and needs filing narrower so that the pivoting stud is more proud than the pivoting lever.
No` 2 lever is the gear shaft lever and is fixed.

I hope the washer is the correct one and does not slide on the stud as well.


This. ^ The pin the lever pivots on should be marginally longer than the sleeved portion of the lever, it should stick out very slightly when the lever is fully in place. The bolt and washer then tighten down against the pin, not the lever.

If it's sticking out too much, you will get a lot of sideways play, if it's not sticking out enough, it will cause the lever to bind.

As jaffa90 says, the washer should fit over the threads but not the pin. If it fits over the pin too, that's at least part of your problem.


Cheers. Now that I know how it works and that I'm not missing any parts I'll give it a try in the morn. It does look like an aftermarket part - the pivot is not sitting proud of the sleeve.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 13 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

obs.tacle wrote:

Cheers. Now that I know how it works and that I'm not missing any parts I'll give it a try in the morn. It does look like an aftermarket part - the pivot is not sitting proud of the sleeve.


Easy fix if it's that. Either file some material off the sleeve part of the lever or find another washer that has an internal diameter the same as the threads and an external diameter that fits inside the sleeve to use as a spacer.

Filing material would be the way I'd go as long as you're happy with your filng technique. Use a hand file and remember to mark a line where you want to stop, that way you screw things up a lot more slowly. Machine tools make the same mistakes as hand tools, just a lot more quickly.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:06 - 14 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arsecakes, I was looking at the wrong bolt....
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
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Islander
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 12:05 - 14 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're going to be filing aluminium alloy then a good tip is to french chalk your file first to stop it from clogging (you can get sticks of the stuff). It's horrible stuff to clean out otherwise. Thumbs Up
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