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ER6F 2007 Headlights died (fixed: replaced bad relay)

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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 21:31 - 23 Nov 2021    Post subject: ER6F 2007 Headlights died (fixed: replaced bad relay) Reply with quote

So that was eventful....

Last night on the way back from town (I'm in the pitch black countryside)

Just as i was joining a dual carriage way my headlights went out. Short flicker then dead.

The thing is. When i checked my highbeam, that was dead too.

Managed to get home as i was about 8 miles from home, dad came out and with hazards on we he guided me back on minor roads...

Anyway going to properly go over the bike tomorrow and wanted to check in to see if anyone has any suggestions to really look into.

First things first, fuse hasnt blown. I am using LED bulbs, theyve been working for a few years. Ive not checked to see if they burned out.

But i find it strange if they have, why would they take out the high beam at the same time?

(one bulb for normal one bulb for high beam)

Wiggled what connections I could find reaching up under the fairing in the pitch black. In case it was a loose connection.

Anyway so yeah, before i spend the day tomorrow fixing it. Any ideas?
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Last edited by NutsyUk on 14:38 - 25 Nov 2021; edited 1 time in total
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 23 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If its lost both its an earth or the wires to the hi low switch.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 23 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
If its lost both its an earth or the wires to the hi low switch.


yeah might be a funky earth as they are connected.... Was going to check that tomorrow.

Also no switch for the main beam as its always on.
High beam is well... normal switch Very Happy

But yeah earth is my first check.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this is bad...

Wireing looks fine, doesnt look like any mouse nibbled anything or burned out loom where i can see....

But both earth lines are fine, just no 12V to the light sockets :/

Which means its still something in the loom or ECU :/

Shite!
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yen_powell
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PostPosted: 13:13 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did you check the fuse?
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

yen_powell wrote:
How did you check the fuse?


to begin with I looked at it, then ran continuity on it just to be sure.
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Mysteriass
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PostPosted: 16:04 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put 12v onto the LED lamp and make sure it's not burned out. Examine the lamp circuitry carefully if you can get at it. The LED's might be fine but one of the tracks might be burned and could be repaired. Or...one of the LED's burned out which put more voltage into the other LED's and catalytically burned the lot out. Just depends how clever the circuit was.

Then, is there some kind of resistor / stabiliser circuit box that takes care of the LED headlight? LED's are very sensitive to overvoltage so there's sometimes something to keep the voltage down inline. If so, that circuit could be bust. It could literally be a resistor taped into the loom somewhere.

Is the handlebar switch a direct on / off between the battery and headlight? Or does the switch go to a relay?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mysteriass wrote:
catalytically


A bit like in an exhaust?
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

new update.... Its the relay... Funnily enough bigclive had a teardown of the same unit... That has the exact same fault!

The coil is burned out.

managed to take mine apart and desolder the contacts. Now im just struggling to find a replacement part.
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Mysteriass
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Mysteriass wrote:
catalytically


A bit like in an exhaust?


Poor choice of word on my part.

If one LED shorted therefore increasing voltage to the other LED's thus burning them then we could say that the first LED to die was the catalyst for burning the other LED's out.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
new update.... Its the relay... Funnily enough bigclive had a teardown of the same unit... That has the exact same fault!

The coil is burned out.

managed to take mine apart and desolder the contacts. Now im just struggling to find a replacement part.


Id be surprised if its anything other than a normal 4 pin relay.you can buy them in halfords for about a fiver


https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin-184013.html
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Mysteriass
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
Now im just struggling to find a replacement part.


Sometimes it's better to buy an entire loom with everything included. Obviously cost a bit more but you'll have a bunch of spares. You can also strip the spare loom down / use meter on it easily to figure out how it works before you work on your own.

Worth a look perhaps.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:
new update.... Its the relay... Funnily enough bigclive had a teardown of the same unit... That has the exact same fault!

The coil is burned out.

managed to take mine apart and desolder the contacts. Now im just struggling to find a replacement part.


Id be surprised if its anything other than a normal 4 pin relay.you can buy them in halfords for about a fiver


https://www.halfords.com/tools/fuses-electricals-and-fixings/electricals/halfords-hef554-relay-12v-30amp-4-pin-184013.html


sadly not, I mean im sure I could hack that in some how but it wont be weather proof.

The part I need is a
NEC EQ1-11111S

Or a clone other brand part.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mysteriass wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:
Now im just struggling to find a replacement part.


Sometimes it's better to buy an entire loom with everything included. Obviously cost a bit more but you'll have a bunch of spares. You can also strip the spare loom down / use meter on it easily to figure out how it works before you work on your own.

Worth a look perhaps.

I mean the specific component... It should only cost a couple of quid rather than the cost of a whole box or loom...

The trouble with getting a breakers yard box is, that this seems to be fairly common. They burn out. And theres a good chance the box id get might be burned out too. or On its way to being burned out.

Still my best option is to find the replacement relay part and solder that into the pcb.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why the fuck is there a pcb controlling power to the fucking front light?
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Why the fuck is there a pcb controlling power to the fucking front light?


it latches on the main headlight / running light when the engine starts...

Theres about 5 other relays in the box.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

NutsyUk wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Why the fuck is there a pcb controlling power to the fucking front light?


it latches on the main headlight / running light when the engine starts...

Theres about 5 other relays in the box.


Just bypass it entirely and have both the front and running lights on permanantly. If you must, have a relay set up that cuts the power to the lights when the starter is running.

You'll need a 5 connector relay for that.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 24 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
NutsyUk wrote:


it latches on the main headlight / running light when the engine starts...

Theres about 5 other relays in the box.


Just bypass it entirely and have both the front and running lights on permanantly.


Well think ive just found a replacement alternative part https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/non-latching-relays/0492894/

Trouble is I dont know if the ECU is sending the signel as 12V or 6.5v.... Its a bit confusing.
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 14:37 - 25 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good news, the relay from RS worked....

Its a pain in the arse to get into the relay box. You have to desolder the plug connector pins. And i used a solder sucker that mostly worked. But a proper desoldering gun with a vacuum pump would be far easier.

it also seems to be a fairly common problem with this relay box. (googled around even bigclive had a video with the exact same dead relay)

So if anyone else has their headlights die like this...

You can get the part from RS for a reasonable price. Link in my previous post.

The 12VCD version works just fine. I was worried it wouldnt as the old part might be a 6.5V (according to a badly translated datasheet)
which is an odd voltage.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 28 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The relay box normally burns out because the reg-rec is on it's way out and overcharging.
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