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Ducati Multistrada Scrambler project

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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 28 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear shocker was actually OK…. but the plating was poor on many of the parts, and I knew that would niggle me! so I pulled it all apart and zinc plated all the parts that needed it, including the banjos on the end of the pipe. I bought a new seal kit, and some oil and re-assembled. the only tricky part was undoing the threaded centre tube out of the body. I didn't want to use grips so I wrapped some thin rubber around it and tightened a couple of jubilee clips around it and used the grips on that. worked a treat!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/shocker-12345.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 30 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

here are a few photos of the detail as it comes together… I am particularly pleased with the rear number plate arrangement and speedo housing.

Another batch of polishing done... its a hard, filthy and quite dangerous job, so I tend to do it in batches, I thought this was the last batch, but as usual when I had finished and cleaned the workshop and myself... I find parts I have missed!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/51640943011_b8a3c990cb_o.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 31 Oct 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny how you think some jobs are going to be easy… I needed to bend some stainless steel rod into some hoops for the exhausts springs… easy enough I though, and tried to bend it over an 8mm bolt. After about the 5th attempt and failing to get a nice radius I ran out of rod.. Embarassed I needed to think again! so I made this little jig and managed to finally get some nice even bends!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/10/stainless-bend.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 11:13 - 01 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started work on the wiring diagram… I always do one of these for a build, and invest some time in it as (1) its easier to design in stages, and ( 2) I think of the poor next owner trying to fault find in years to come! and (3) I can do it while she watches stuff like Strictly come dancing

Its not finished yet, but its getting there.

I did start to do it on my iPad on an App… which was a actually very good... but I got conned! after a few days it came up “your trial period is over – please pay” I wish I had spotted that in the small print before I started! so it was back to good old Microsoft Visio

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/ducati-9-wire-diagram-v-1.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 02 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

First time in the sunlight for a while… the exhaust is now finished and I have added a heat shield to protect the underside of the seat, and some protectors for the stanchions.

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-6.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-5.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-1.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-2.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-sterrt-best.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/in-the-street-4.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 17:25 - 06 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little break today to do something I love doing… making things from scratch…. I have always liked the window in the cover on some of the bevel bikes, so I decided to make a window for the desmo valve gear…

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51659816644_6440c95c98_o.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51659393568_5209e7cf09_o.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 15:03 - 10 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the things I like to do on any build is to rubber mount any electrical components, it gives them a much easier life. The coils and the rear number plate holder are therefore supported by rubber bushes with collars in them to isolate the components from vibration. The coil rubbers are a standard size, but I needed to have a custom pair for the rear number plate as it was a none standard size. Rubber is almost impossible to turn… I read people put it in the freezer and use a very sharp tool, but in my experience that simply does not work… What does work is grinding it. Here is a 30 second video of widening the groove in a rubber bush in the lathe with a cutting disc in a Dremel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-vn8Qtouss

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/rubber-bush-3.jpg
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Zen Dog
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Joined: 11 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 10 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is like a show bike build. Everything is bloody beautiful. Are you actually going to ride it when you're done?
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My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 20:19 - 10 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always ride my builds Very Happy normally sell them on after 12 months but the last one got under my skin and i kept it … this one is much like it but with a dual seat so I can take my wife out on it Smile Smile
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 14 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

In an effort to keep the lines of the bike as clean as I can, I have designed the loom to all come together under the tank, which makes it a little messy under there… I also struggled to make a bracket for the fuel tap I am using… I wont divulge how long that little bracket took to make!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/wireing-1-copy.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51679356568_41182e090e_o-copy.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 20 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

into some of the detail jobs now… Somehow I “lost” the brake light switch… I remember taking it off and putting it and the tiny plunger into a plastic bag… after spending a frustrating couple of hours searching (and finding stuff I had forgotten I had!!) I admitted defeat and bought a Hydraulic one, which worked out OK as I needed a new double banjo bolt to fit the brake lines! I took apart the stand switch cleaned and re- assembled and covered the cables with braided sleeving, which I find great. Its important the switch works well as its connected to the ignition… When the stand is down, the engine is limited to 2000 RPM, which prevents you pulling away with it down. Also made up some custom HT leads with copper cores so I can just use resistor plugs.

Finally I finished the ignition trigger… I have made a few of these in the past, but this time when I tried to order the Hall Sensors they were out of stock, with a delivery date of sept 22! There are alternatives, but better the devil you know… A good friend managed to find me 5 in Germany though. I held them in place with some hot glue, and then filled the void with potting compound which I have never used before. if anyone wants to make a trigger, the values of the capacitors and resistors are on the diagram.

the hall sensors are triggered by tiny magnets ( 3 x 5 mm) The south pole turns it on, north off… which means you have to determine the pole of the magnets! this is easily done by floating them on a piece of wood where they quickly align.

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51692933659_2a594d845b_o.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/ignition-2.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/north-pole.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/mall-diagram.jpg
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 20 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apologies if you've previously mentioned this but for the braided lines do you use the stuff with a clear plastic cover or just bare metal?
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 20 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Apologies if you've previously mentioned this but for the braided lines do you use the stuff with a clear plastic cover or just bare metal?


I use both... If I custom make them I buy the ends and hose and make them up, but that's quite expensive! The hose does not come plastic coated... those in the picture are off Ebay and come ready made and are cheap to buy, but the quality seems pretty good. they are plastic covered.
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 22 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted the new cambelts today… I like the Gates carbon Drive app to tension the belts. It measures the frequency of them when you give them a twang, like a guitar string, very sensitive and accurate. I set them to 110 HZ which also “feels” right.

I also went to pick up the oil cooler pipes I had dropped off to have the ends crimped on…I just don’t have the tool to do this. The miserable git plonked them on the counter and said £20… Rolling Eyes I looked and he had fitted different size ferrules on the ends… when I pointed this out he shrugged and told me it didn’t matter… well it does to my OCD… Mr. Green he was not happy when I refused to pay! This is why I hate putting work out.

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51696299263_f7d7e47e1b_o.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/crimp.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 25 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

into the detailed jobs at the moment, in preparation for start up. The oil cooler was pretty tatty so I left it in a container with some thinners in the bottom for a few days, then washed the paint straight off. As its aluminium and I was going to paint it, I grit blasted it before giving a a thin coat of etch primer, followed by a couple of coats of satin black, which I prefer over matt. It came out really well.

Then onto the carb installation. The outer diameter of the carb inlets are different to that of the fuel filter, so I needed a “T” piece with different size ends. I made one out of brass and silver soldered the parts together. Finally I needed some cable adjusters. I popped to the cycle shop where I buy my bowden cable to make the throttle cables but they didn’t have any suitable. Again I ended up making these out of brass and a couple of bolts. The yellow tube is Tygon, made for Ethanol fuel. its very flexible and I like the idea I can see through it! It works best with Mikalor clips which are quite neat.

Finally I fitted the frame number sticker with the VIN number on, just to keep the MOT man happy. one of the problems with blasting and powder coating the frame is it becomes very difficult to see the frame number.

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/oil-cooler.jpg

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/11/51703659110_2ab5caf2f1_o.jpg
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 26 Nov 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

One aspect of a build I like to get right is the throttle action... too quick and action and its jerky to ride and often heavy... too slow an action and it becomes two handfuls to fully open and I hate that...

I popped the cable on with the twin pull throttle of the Multistrada and it was just too quick and heavy... I needed to take 1mm off the diameter where the cables run. Of course you cant just pop it in the lathe as the cable boss prevents that... I looked at doing it in the milling machine and couldn't see any way of doing it... so I came up with this!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlxAjcEi7Kk
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 03 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I would like to say it started first time… but it didn’t… Rolling Eyes I would like to say I found the problem in 10 mins… Rolling Eyes but I spent HOURS looking why it didn’t start. In the end I tracked it down to the fact that I had placed the magnets wrong on the ignition trigger wheel! Embarassed easily sorted soon as I spotted it.

https://youtu.be/WVhmfhXmU7Q
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buzzer1955
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PostPosted: 15:57 - 06 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wasn’t really in the market for another project just yet… but when this came along VERY cheap, I couldn’t resist! Its tatty but is a runner and sounds sweet! I think it will be a good basis for a project… I have done 9 Ducati’s now, need a change! Watch this space!

https://jtccc.files.wordpress.com/2021/12/guzzi-2.jpg
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