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CBF125 2012 Ignition Barrel/Fuse

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CoachDom
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Joined: 18 Jan 2022
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: CBF125 2012 Ignition Barrel/Fuse Reply with quote

Hi folks,

I took out my CBF125 for a spin this weekend to make sure everything is all nice and dandy before I will start commuting. So I adjusted the chain, checked the brakes & took it to the petrol station to inflate the tyres. As I was leaving the station the bike all of the sudden died on me completely - not just the engine, all the lights went off. So I pushed it to the side and upon further inspection I found out that one of the two cables from the ignition barrel cam of and only made connection when the bar was in a specific position.

I whipped out my soldering iron and tried to wiggle into there and solder it back on but now it's not coming up at all. Even though the cable is soldered back on nothing seems to be coming up when turning the key.

I have ordered a new ignition barrel and will give it a shot replacing it the next weekend but now I'm worried I have blew the fuse when soldering.

Are there any other fuses apart from the ones here?
https://cbf125rider.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/100_0772.jpg

Many thanks,
Dom
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out around the battery area, that'd be the next likely place. There might be in-line fuses on any accessories you have like heated grips, USB socket, trickle charger but I doubt they'd be affected.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Re: CBF125 2012 Ignition Barrel/Fuse Reply with quote

CoachDom wrote:
Hupon further inspection I found out that one of the two cables from the ignition barrel cam of and only made connection when the bar was in a specific position.

I whipped out my soldering iron


So at one point before soldering attempts you got ignition lights with the bars in a certain place - but now not at all?
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CoachDom
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Re: CBF125 2012 Ignition Barrel/Fuse Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Check out around the battery area, that'd be the next likely place. There might be in-line fuses on any accessories you have like heated grips, USB socket, trickle charger but I doubt they'd be affected.


I was looking for CBF125 fuses online and the only things I found were these red 10amp blade fuses and this. Is that something that could possibly "pop" when messing around the ignition?
No accessories at all.

A100man wrote:
CoachDom wrote:
Hupon further inspection I found out that one of the two cables from the ignition barrel cam of and only made connection when the bar was in a specific position.

I whipped out my soldering iron


So at one point before soldering attempts you got ignition lights with the bars in a certain place - but now not at all?


Correct
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 18:47 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

On an unrelated note - that looks lovely and clean for a 10 year old bike. Nice!
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/thumbs/h/motog/100069/IMGE/930_930/TOOLS--BATTERY-BOX-Honda-MOTO-125-CBF-2011-CBF125MA-F_27.jpg

Looks like there is one on top of the battery cover too (thought could just be a spare). Its going to be worth removing the barrel and really going over the wiring coming out of it, making sure nothing is still shorting.

Do you have a test light or multimeter? these are going to come in very handy and remove guesswork.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Over the years I've had a few of these switches to bits and often been able to fix them.
With the switch removed from the underneath there is usually a bakelite disk with the wires soldered on to brass contacts , this is usually held in with 3 or 4 crimps, that can be bent back allowing the disk to be removed ( watching out that various small springs, ball bearings and contacts don't fly everywhere) .

What has usually happened is that in our lovely climate raindrops/ water has found its way past the lock bit into the switch bit and made a horrid goop with the grease that is supposed to be in there, usually causing the contacts or the moving contact to corrode up. Clean everything up , with wet and dry/ sandpaper/ emery /whatever ( tomato sauce is good here for cleaning small bits ( immerse for an hour or two then rinse)- shiny!) New grease , bang it back together - re crimp bakelite in place - away to go.

Since new locks are on Ebay for beans it's often not worth it, but hey you might be stuck- not in stock etc.
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CoachDom
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PostPosted: 15:05 - 19 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Hans wrote:
On an unrelated note - that looks lovely and clean for a 10 year old bike. Nice!


Unfortunately, that's not mine Very Happy Just got it from the internet.

Tdibs wrote:
https://www.bike-parts-honda.com/thumbs/h/motog/100069/IMGE/930_930/TOOLS--BATTERY-BOX-Honda-MOTO-125-CBF-2011-CBF125MA-F_27.jpg

Looks like there is one on top of the battery cover too (thought could just be a spare). Its going to be worth removing the barrel and really going over the wiring coming out of it, making sure nothing is still shorting.

Do you have a test light or multimeter? these are going to come in very handy and remove guesswork.


So I reckon we are talking about the part 8? I noticed that the part 18 its your typical car fuse so if the new barrel itself not going to be enough, I will replace that.

steve the grease wrote:
Over the years I've had a few of these switches to bits and often been able to fix them.
With the switch removed from the underneath there is usually a bakelite disk with the wires soldered on to brass contacts , this is usually held in with 3 or 4 crimps, that can be bent back allowing the disk to be removed ( watching out that various small springs, ball bearings and contacts don't fly everywhere) .

What has usually happened is that in our lovely climate raindrops/ water has found its way past the lock bit into the switch bit and made a horrid goop with the grease that is supposed to be in there, usually causing the contacts or the moving contact to corrode up. Clean everything up , with wet and dry/ sandpaper/ emery /whatever ( tomato sauce is good here for cleaning small bits ( immerse for an hour or two then rinse)- shiny!) New grease , bang it back together - re crimp bakelite in place - away to go.

Since new locks are on Ebay for beans it's often not worth it, but hey you might be stuck- not in stock etc.


Thanks for that - I have already ordered a new barrel but nice knowing Smile
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CoachDom
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 20 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the new ignition barrel today and quickly wired it in to see if it's working but obviously, it's not. Upon further inspection (the part nr 8) I have noticed the 15 amp fuse has blown so I will be trying again tonight.
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CoachDom
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 20 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right, so it seems that it's all good!
Only two issues:
1) Wires from the switch are way too short (which is weird because it's specificaly for my model and all of them available on ebay seem to be the same) so I will have to exchange that

2) Someone (probably before I bought the bike) tried to remove the mounting bolts with a grinder and the bolt is mostly flat and useless. I want to replace that but to get the the bolts from Honda Motorcycle Parts (part 16), it will cost 6 quid for delivery and all together comes down to 10 quid (for two bolts!). Do you reckon I could just use this instead (given I will go for the M6x12)?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 20 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

They've not been ground down, they are shear bolts and the hex bit on the end snaps off once done up to a suitable torque to make them hard to undo.


But yes, any suitable sized bolt will replace them.
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CoachDom
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 20 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked
How do I remove them?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 20 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill the end off and then the threaded bit should be loose enough to undo with your fingers.

Or use a dremel to cut a slot in it and use a screwdriver bit.
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