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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 18:43 - 27 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A slight update...

... so, after a few days I managed to learn what button/dial does what and what all the stuff on the display (HUD) means. I still can't quite make the camera do what I want it to, but I'm getting there.

I am amazed how much information/detail the APS-C sensor gets into the pictures, compared to a smartphone camera. Also, for some reason I found an unexplainable interest in monochrome photography. The level of detail just seems much higher when you work only with shades of grey.

Oh, and I bought a camera carrying bag, cleaning blower and a lenspen. I would not bother with the lenspen but I acidentaly touched the lense glass with my greasy finger and after reading stuff online, I decided to solve my greasy lense issue with the lenspen. I was sceptical, but it did remove the finger grease quite imediately, with no visible damage to the glass.

Anyway, here are some pictures. The original picture res. is 6000 x 3376, I had to reduce the res. to 4K to upload the pictures here. Otherwise all of these are JPEG right out of the camera. The F4 picture is my desktop wallpaper at the moment.

QUESTION: What do people say about affordable third party lenses? Lenses from 7Artisans, MEIKE, ... etc.? I do understand that my camera (X-T200) uses the lense for picture stabilistaion, and that the third party lenses do not have stabilisation, but missing stabilisation could only be an issue when shooting moving subjects and video, right?
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martin734
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 27 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
QUESTION: What do people say about affordable third party lenses? Lenses from 7Artisans, MEIKE, ... etc.? I do understand that my camera (X-T200) uses the lense for picture stabilistaion, and that the third party lenses do not have stabilisation, but missing stabilisation could only be an issue when shooting moving subjects and video, right?


I have used a couple of 3rd party lenses. Some were good, some were crap. One thing I did notice was that quality even with same brands can be very variable, quality is often inconsistent. On the whole, 3rd party prime lenses seem to be better than zoom lenses. if you are buying a zoom lens, get the best you an afford. Usually a 2nd hand lens from a major brand will be better than a new lens from a 3rd party and often cost about the same. As for image stabilisation, I would definitely recommend it. It isn't only useful for videos and action shots it is almost essential for shooting at longer distances or in low or variable light conditions. Depending on the weight and balance of the camera and lens, and the distance you are shooting at, shooting anything at shutter speeds of less than 1/250 sec almost always requires either a tripod or image stabilisation.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 27 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

While not normally a fan of facebook the groups are good for stuff like this there seem to be some with a lot of info about the Fuji X range even without signing up you can read and search.
Usually you are best sticking to the native lenses even if it means saving up a while but there are always exceptions it might for example be fine to look at something (e.g.) Sigma like an F1.4 50mm which is really nice for portrait or product type photos with blurred background.

The kit lenses are usually around 24-70 or 24-105 zooms, then it's always tempting to think about maybe a 70-200 or even 100-400 for more reach but a nice fixed length one good in low light i.e. Wide aperture F1.8 or lower is really nice to have and a relatively inexpensive addition early on.
A wider angle such as 28 or 35mm is good for astro or other very low light photos like city lights at night etc.

More affordable zooms are often F4 or higher so not as handy in low light.
Don't be hasty about additional lenses until you get a better idea of what interests you. Used lenses can be very good value for popular brands like Fuji.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 06 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you lads,

I only recently figured out how to actually use the kit lense (XC 15-45mm f/3.5-5.6) and the connection between aperture and shutter speed and how to use the auto focus or rather what mode to use and when. The manual focus is somewhat cumbersome. Could be the lense, could by me not understanding what's going on. This is where I might buy a used cheap prime lense (3rd. party) with manual focus and aperature just to try and learn stuff. But so far the Fujifilm kit lense is enough for me. I still couldn't even take many pictures outside, as it's either raining, snowing, freezing or it's just too dark.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 01:46 - 07 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bit of bad weather shouldn't give you a long face.


https://pbs.twimg.com/media/FIbIzrgX0AceQj1?format=jpg&name=largeTaken today.

F2.5 SS 1/100 ISO 160
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 08 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still not comfortable to use the camera in sub-zero temperatures and high moisture environment. Fujifilm says the X-T200 operation conditions are 0°C to 40°C, at 10% to 80% air humidity. It's not the camera that I'm worried about though, it's the lense, that contains hugh chunks of glass inside in a plastic housing full of electronics with no weather sealing whatsoever.

I did however do some hiking in the mountains today and took many pictures with my Pixel 4a phone. Although, ever since I got my hands on the X-T200 camera I find the smartphone camera, and its features, very limiting.
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 18:25 - 09 Jan 2022; edited 1 time in total
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Tarmacsurfer
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 08 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a second hand OM-D EM1 last time I was in Japan, sold it a few months back in a fit of "oh shit, I need money quick". I really regret doing so. Weather sealing is something I never knew I needed until I had it.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I made some pictures with my digital camera outside. I'm not quite happy with the results, it was dark, but it is a start. Once again, I had to reduce the picture resolution to upload them here.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Challenging light conditions there RhynoCZ where exposure bracketing probably wouldn't have given you much satisfaction....then again I'm guessing at what you wanted from the shots.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 18 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

In that scene to keep the colour in the sky that can't be exposed to much it will just wash out.
At the same time you often want to see some detail in the dark foreground (without losing all the silhouette look)
The camera can automatically bracket for you in that situation maybe try three shots at -1 0 and +1 or even -2 0 +2

But then you need to blend them together which is more complicated though (e.g) Lightroom will do it for you and make a decent job.

Another approach is to use one frame and lift the shadows and drop highlights a bit - effectively reduce contrast.
This can be readily done by pretty basic editing software but results will be much better if your original file was RAW rather than JPG
I did try to tweak things from the uploaded jpg but not much data hidden in the dark - you would retrieve something from a RAW file.

As soon as you start pushing things about beware of degrading the image by going too far, and making it look too forced or artificial.
One of those times when less is more

With film the 'correct' way would have been to use a graduated neutral density filter which is darker at the top so your sky isn't too bright if you increase exposure of the whole frame a bit.
Good filters are quite expensive and are not really needed so much with digital but certainly can be used and kind of fun to play about with.
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Stevie GooGs
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PostPosted: 08:52 - 19 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
So, I made some pictures with my digital camera outside. I'm not quite happy with the results, it was dark, but it is a start. Once again, I had to reduce the picture resolution to upload them here.


Really depends what your trying to get here, also you need to understand the limitations of cameras dynamic range vs your eyes.

If you wanted to be able to lift the shadows without washing out the sky then you would be best to do a bracket shot at different exposures then blend them together, some use HDR settings in camera but reality is most people over edit and it looks toxic. Or shoot in raw in shoot in-between and adjust levels etc on PC.

The shot with the trees might have been better composition to get closer to one of the trees and use that as your subject so you get the red sky behind it, however maybe you could not get across the field etc.

A rule of thumb is its better to under expose slightly than over as you cant recover any data from blown highlights and highlights are normally the first thing to go.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 19 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have the RAW file to the A1 picture. I tried to edit the raw file in darktable but the dark areas can't be brought up much without washing out the sky. Although, I can see all the trees in the background now. I uploaded a 4K (2160p) jpeg here. The original picture is in much higher resolution of 6000x4000.

The data says the picture was taken with 200 ISO, f/5.0, 1/85, 29mm focal length. ISO too low for the shutter speed and apeture settings? It looked alright in the viewfinder before I took the picture, though. Thinking

QUESTION: My smartphone camera has a fixed aperture of f/1.7. The Fujinon kit lense that I use on my digital camera goes as low (high?) as f/3.5. I get that f/1.7 is very fast, but is f/3.5 that slow? In terms of how long it takes to get all the necessary light through onto the sensor to get similar results?
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 19 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The composition isn't good (which means nothing if you're happy with it).
What was the focus of attention? What did you want in sharp focus? Where did you focus?


The bright area of sky would maybe have benefitted from a graduated filter or as I mentioned a series of images with different exposure settings.

Aperture setting (again...don't know which mode you were in and what you had in mind).

Next time you're out, setup your tripod and capture the same static scene using Aperture priority and note how the ISO and shutter speeds adjust. See how the depth of field alters.

Use the histogram to check that there isn't a massive spike towards the right (indicating blown out areas of the image that cannot be 'fixed' in post).

Most of all take lots of photographs and maybe some tutorials on the areas you're not sure about.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 19 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
I do have the RAW file to the A1 picture. I tried to edit the raw file in darktable but the dark areas can't be brought up much without washing out the sky. Although, I can see all the trees in the background now. I uploaded a 4K (2160p) jpeg here. The original picture is in much higher resolution of 6000x4000.

The data says the picture was taken with 200 ISO, f/5.0, 1/85, 29mm focal length. ISO too low for the shutter speed and apeture settings?

Nothing wrong there really, modern digitals with larger sensor you can bump up the ISO quite high if need be before noise is a big deal.
But generally best to keep it below about 400
On a picture like that a denoiser could smooth it out as there isn't much fine detail anyway.
I don't know darktable but would expect you could lower highlights then lift shadows and/or gently tweak the overall exposure.
It is a good candidate for blend of at least two shots one exposed for sky and one for foreground. That effectively increases your camera's dynamic range to something closer to how we perceive it.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 22 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use the (A)perture priority 99% of the time, as I only shoot static subjects and also figured out what effect do different aperture settings have on the final image. It's always the question of how sharp do I want the image and the background to be and what the camera should do with the ''light rays'' from various light sources.

Playing with the aperture also revealed a big dust particle inside my lense, right on the back glass, it shows only between f/11 and f/22, moves with the zoom. I have no idea how it got inside, however I am certain it wasn't there when I first had to use the blower to clean the sensor. It is visible on the glass with bare eye. Confused

I am tempted to remove the back glass (4 screws) and blow the dust out. Thinking

Anyway, I also try my luck with AUTO ISO, that I set to min. 200ISO and max. 800ISO (it can't go lower on the max. ISO with the AUTO ISO function), and I tell the camera not to drop the shutter speed bellow 1/60. That, unless I want to make a night time/low light picture. The Dynamic Range option and exposure compensation, I'm still not quite sure about. I sort of understand what these two functions do, but I can't predict the end results, if that makes any sense. I do use the histogram however sometimes it does not reflect the reality or rather what the final image will look like. My computer monitor also isn't that well calibrated. That being said, I still prefer JPEG over RAW, although I set the camera to shoot both, so I can then pick the pictures I like and edit them.

Anyway, I'm off to make some more pictures, last night I watched several Fujifilm camera tutorials on youtube and read through the manual again. Before I decide to do anything about the dust inside the lense, I'll keep the aperture between f/3.5 and f/10 to hide the dust bastard. Laughing
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 22 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:
The composition isn't good (which means nothing if you're happy with it).
What was the focus of attention? What did you want in sharp focus? Where did you focus?


It was supposed to be a dark wallpaper for my work computer. I wanted the branches sharp with open area in the middle. And the other picture, I just liked the colours of the sky during the sunset, with sharp and dark trees in the background. Thinking

EDIT: Just like on my smartphone, I use the rule of thirds for the most part, the composition is never random. So, if it's wrong by any standards, it was intentional. Smile

It was a quick session, no preparations, no multiple pictures of the same thing, no tripod, etc.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 22 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

My eye was immediately drawn to the brighter area and then it had nowhere to go but for a desktop wallpaper I can see what you had in mind.

As for the dust issue, have you tried using a *can of compressed air or is it possible to send it in for service under warranty?

Happy snapping.



*keep the can upright
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 22 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the camera and lense from a general electronics store, so I'm gonna have to check the service under warranty conditions. I'd say dust inside the lense isn't really something a warranty would cover, as the lense has no sealing whatsoever and the possibility of dust getting inside was always there. Fujifilm does have representation in Czech republic, so I might check the warranty conditions with them. I should probably register my camera first.

When you say compressed air, where would I even put the nozzle? It's inside the lens. I also heard that compressed air in the can is not ideal, as it may present moisture to the lense (electronics inside).

The next option, there are the local vendors who clean lenses for a little fee, with good results I hope.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 22 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Howling Terror wrote:


As for the dust issue, have you tried using a *can of compressed air or is it possible to send it in for service under warranty?

Happy snapping.



*keep the can upright

This would be Ok for lenses but don't even think of using it on sensor.
Any dust in the lens has almost no effect on images there is a remote chance of some kind of refraction artefact with strong backlighting or something.
Whereas dust spots on the sensor are inevitable even if you only have one lens and don't take it off.
It's easily dealt with yourself unless something diastrous has happened like bodged cleaning attempt.

Usually a rocket air blower will move obvious dust especially little fibres. Bear in mind position of specks is reversed so top is bottom and left is right.
You can usually see them with good light and perhaps magnifying glass.
The camera will have a cleaning mode you must engage so shutter can't spring into action Shocked

More stubborn sticky spots can occur and the best way to remove is special fluid which dries leaving no streaks and a camera/sensor specific swab which is the exact same size - so you just go once over and back and it's done.
Don't touch the sensor with anything else especially fingers, and blowing on it yourself is very unwise.

You can largely ignore a few spots they won't show up except in the sky, and rather low light conditions with your aperture wide open.
So unless something is really obvious don't worry too much you might go a year or more with no need to do it.

They usually have a self-cleaning option in menu, which kind of vibrates it but it rarely works very well in my experience
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 23 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:

Playing with the aperture also revealed a big dust particle inside my lense, right on the back glass, it shows only between f/11 and f/22, moves with the zoom. I have no idea how it got inside, however I am certain it wasn't there when I first had to use the blower to clean the sensor. It is visible on the glass with bare eye. Confused

I am tempted to remove the back glass (4 screws) and blow the dust out. Thinking


Don't. You may well wreck the precision optical collimation. A dust speck, even a big one, will have no net effect on the quality of your images. A few years ago there was a lens hire company that published an image that was excellent although if you were being critical, you might have said it was a bit soft. Then they showed a picture of the object lens - it was cracked to buggery.


In other news, I can recommend signing up with the Talk Photohgraphy forum - there are loads of professionals on there as well as knowldgeable amateurs and they're a friendly and helpful bunch Smile
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 23 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:

Whereas dust spots on the sensor are inevitable even if you only have one lens and don't take it off.
It's easily dealt with yourself unless something diastrous has happened like bodged cleaning attempt.

Usually a rocket air blower will move obvious dust especially little fibres. Bear in mind position of specks is reversed so top is bottom and left is right.
You can usually see them with good light and perhaps magnifying glass.
The camera will have a cleaning mode you must engage so shutter can't spring into action Shocked

More stubborn sticky spots can occur and the best way to remove is special fluid which dries leaving no streaks and a camera/sensor specific swab which is the exact same size - so you just go once over and back and it's done.
Don't touch the sensor with anything else especially fingers, and blowing on it yourself is very unwise.

You can largely ignore a few spots they won't show up except in the sky, and rather low light conditions with your aperture wide open.
So unless something is really obvious don't worry too much you might go a year or more with no need to do it.

They usually have a self-cleaning option in menu, which kind of vibrates it but it rarely works very well in my experience


You can get a sensor equivalent of a lens pen that works extremely well. Thumbs Up
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 20 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, today I made this. I used the wrong autofocus settings, I also should have used the burst shutter mode... anyway I've got a question.

QUESTION:
I use the 15-45mm kit lense that came with my Fujifilm camera. The blurrines of the picture asside, I understand that with a longer lense I could make that bird much bigger from where I was standing. Now, would a ring (set of rings) under the kit lense work? Those macro rings do move the focal lenght, don't they? Used macro ring extensions go for next to nothing, compared to proper zoom lenses.

QUESTION:
Focus to infinity, is it just set it to infinity and forget about it?

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/dscf1444-edit2.jpg
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doggone
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 20 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not for that subject realistically, they are decent purchase but to have autofocus work you need the slightly more pricey ones with contacts.
They really are mainly to make you lens able to focus much closer like almost touching the glass.

Infinity isn't always fully turned one way or on the infinity symbol if present.
With a zoom it might vary through the zoom range slightly.
With sony there is a way it can show you what's in focus called 'peaking' you get a red line round objects in manual - can be turned on or off.
Not sure if fuji do something similar
But you can do almost as good a job by eye, especially if it helps you by enlarging when you turn the ring.

Unless light is very low autofocus is so good now you are best sticking with it.
Sometimes there's an object like tree branch in the way so manual over ride is better.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 18:54 - 20 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fujifilm cameras do have the focus peaking and the red (or whatever colour you chose) markings on what's in focus when using the manual focus.

I use the AF+MF mode, meaning the camera does the focusing and I can then fine tune the focus with the focus ring on the lense. I've got several pictures where I focus on much longer distances with much sharper results. Not in this case though. The camera refocused, no time to fine focus it, and it blurred the image. The focus meter on my camera goes to 10m, then it's infinity, so my thinking here is manual focus to infinity and just leave it there to take such pictures of subjects in long distance.

The data says it was taken at ISO200, 1/450, f/10, with stabilisation turned on. Does ISO have an effect on autofocus? 1/450 isn't slow and at f/10 the lense should be as sharp as it can possibly be. Thinking

EDIT: Or maybe I just have high expectations.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 20 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

ISO shouldn't affect focus but some subjects confuse it and in lower light you often notice it will hunt from one thing to another.
In your photo the bird looks sharp I thought that was your subject and it is close enough that the distant trees are a bit blurred
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