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Heated grips on small scooter (and oddball electrics!)

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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 13 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, same sort of thing. When fitting just make sure they are oriented correctly.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 13 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
This the latest kit but its quadrupled in price 08ESYK40HG19. Prepare for a heart attack.

The original kit was about £115.


Holy shitballs! £510 for a set of heated grips! 5 week lead time too. I guess that answers your initial question quite well too.

That buys a lot of fucking about with £37 R&G heated grips. In fact, it would buy me making my own from scratch with resistance wire and silicone putty.

On the subject of R&G, on the CBR6 they draw 1.5A on the lowest power setting, then 1.9, 2.4 and 2.6A at the highest power setting (the manufacturer quotes 4A but that's clearly not the case). That's measured with a meter in place of the inline fuse with the engine running at a fast idle so about as real life as it gets.

I reckon it'll probably cope with that, on the hottest settings they are barely touchable anyway. Especially if she keeps off the electric foot which seems like an unecessary addition anyway given how easily it kick starts.

@Nobby. Thanks but I've promised myself I'm not going to get sucked into buying oxford products ever again. The only thing I ever got from them that did what it was supposed to do were fat grips and those little visor squirt bottles with a sponge on.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 13 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive been using Oxford grips for at least a decade and the only issu I've really found is that the rubber starts to wear down to the heating elements after 30 to 40 k milez
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 13 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had Oxford heated grips fitted to my R850R for the past 4 years they've been excellent so far.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 13 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:

When I did my first degree that was what we called it .


Valve era eh?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:20 - 13 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Islander wrote:

When I did my first degree that was what we called it .


Valve era eh?


I don't think I'm quite as old as you... Laughing

Although I did have to do a quick bit of study on thermionics when I did a stint as design engineer/production manager for a valve hi fi company.

I sometimes miss the electronic industry.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 14 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I reckon we may have case of overthinking here
Just had a shufty at the Innova diagram and it all looks like
the stuff I've seen on the other honda scoots I get to play
with at times, albeit made more complex because of the EFI
what happened to carbs and CDIs eh?

Positive earth? self exciting?
nahh very much doubt it

I have some led wedge bulbs that are polarity conscious and will only
work one way, so you may have to flip them if they wont light
some leds will work in either direction

You should be able to use leds without doing any wiring mods
and I'd suggest actually testing the things off bike before you fit it
as some may be faulty
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Robby
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Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 12:20 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried a similar amount of overthinking when fitting heated grips to a scooter a few years ago. Well, not that much, but trying to run a normal DC relay into the lighting circuit. Lots of buzzing happened as the relay switched at 50hz.

So I just ran the grips direct from the battery with a relay off the ignition switched live. These were cheap ebay grips for scooters, certainly a lower current draw than the ones on my big bikes. Plenty hot enough.

If it's cold enough to need grips on full power all the time, it's probably a day to take the car.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
I tried a similar amount of overthinking when fitting heated grips to a scooter a few years ago. Well, not that much, but trying to run a normal DC relay into the lighting circuit. Lots of buzzing happened as the relay switched at 50hz.


Good to know, i was just about to start fitting and was swithering if I should put the relay on the lighting or switched live. There's the answer.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:42 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


Positive earth? self exciting?
nahh very much doubt it


The lighting circuit is 100% definately positive earth. Checked the output polarity with the meter. It will also light up a positive earth LED tail bulb but not a negative earth one (and the opposite way round for the brake part). It also reads about 7V on the DC setting and skips about on the AC setting which would fit with it being halfwave rectified.

I have it on good authority they will start off the kickstart with a flat battery providing there is fuel in the line.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:14 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe maybe not
never had me mitts on one so what do I know?
but the anf diagram you showed is clearly a negative earth system
and most efi systems will go ape shit on low voltages.
Perhaps they designed a cunning wheeze in there to cope with a flat battery?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:59 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
maybe maybe not
never had me mitts on one so what do I know?
but the anf diagram you showed is clearly a negative earth system
and most efi systems will go ape shit on low voltages.
Perhaps they designed a cunning wheeze in there to cope with a flat battery?


I think there must be a capacitor in there somewhere and I think if it doesn't trip that main relay when you turn on the ignition, all the power generated from the kick goes direct to a seperate terminal on the ECU.

If you look more closely at that dagram. The head and tail lights are on a totally seperate circuit. There's a single phase feeding into the reg/rec from the alternator and multiple outputs, one of which is for the lights which only come on when the bike powers up. It's splitting the power output between the lights and the battery but not by dividing the coil like the older ones did.

On a side note. I'd forgotten what a pain in the arse it is to do anything to a scooter. Routing the power feed for the grips was a pennance. It's taken me three and a half hours to swap out the front flashers and headlight bulbs for LEDs, hook a relay in to the battery and route the wires for the heated grips. Just need to fit the actual grips themselves and fit the bar muffs now.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

ALL the lights on that diagram share a common ground
linked to Frame/Battery negative
That means they're all negative earth not positive earth.

We can only see terminations of the cables and not actual
switch mapping/functions mostly but I agree the lights are fed by the single yellow cable from the regulator.

I'd say the main relay function is to cut power on
the yellow cable (lights) while the starter is cranking

This is a commonly used device would not allow self exciting exactly
but give a kind of similar result by maximising as much
power that's available from the a possibly flattish battery plus the small charge given by a kick to power the ecu, fuel pump, coil, and injector.

If the battery was dead flat how would the fuel pump pressurise the injector, boot the ecu, charge the primary windings of the coil and ready the injector?
I really cant see how a breif kick ( 1or 2 revs at most)would provide enough power for this
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 16 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assure you the lights are positive earth and accessories are negative earth. All going back to the frame. Must get away with it because it's a single phase. I'll video it tomorrow.

I've got two stop and tail LED bulbs, one positive earth and one negative. With the positive one, the tail light works but not the stop light. With the negative earth one the stop light works but not the tail light. You get a negative volt reading and negative current flow on the multimeter when you measure the lighting.

Just when you thought Japanese small bike wiring couldn't get any weirder.

The LED headlamp bulb works too so it can't be AC. It shimmers slightly at idle but settles down once the revs increase
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:17 - 17 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I assure you the lights are positive earth and accessories are negative earth. All going back to the frame. Must get away with it because it's a single phase. I'll video it tomorrow.

I've got two stop and tail LED bulbs, one positive earth and one negative. With the positive one, the tail light works but not the stop light. With the negative earth one the stop light works but not the tail light. You get a negative volt reading and negative current flow on the multimeter when you measure the lighting.

Just when you thought Japanese small bike wiring couldn't get any weirder.

The LED headlamp bulb works too so it can't be AC. It shimmers slightly at idle but settles down once the revs increase


It'll be something like a split phase system where the common (ground) is taken from a centre tap in the alternator coils. Then it's a simple matter to rectify one side to produce a voltage that's positive wrt ground and the other to produce a voltage that's negative wrt to earth giving you both negative and positive earth systems.

Think of it as a dual rail power supply if that helps Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 17 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here we go. Short video showing the two different polarities on the same bulb holder.

https://youtu.be/Rb336rspMh8
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 14:13 - 17 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:


It'll be something like a split phase system where the common (ground) is taken from a centre tap in the alternator coils. Then it's a simple matter to rectify one side to produce a voltage that's positive wrt ground and the other to produce a voltage that's negative wrt to earth giving you both negative and positive earth systems.

Think of it as a dual rail power supply if that helps Smile


OK fair enough, kinda split rail sorta thing.

BTW I recall there's a place here in Bristol who sell BA type
led 'bulb' replacements for use old Pos earth cars and bikes
cant remember their name but they do sell via Ebay

Found em
this lot

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/ledbulbsforclassiccars?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 17 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


BTW I recall there's a place here in Bristol who sell BA type
led 'bulb' replacements for use old Pos earth cars and bikes
cant remember their name but they do sell via Ebay

Found em
this lot

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/ledbulbsforclassiccars?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2563


That's where I get my bulbs. Their headlamp bulbs in particular are a cut above the rest. No off the shelf solution for a stop and tail with opposite polarities though. It'll just have to stick with an inandescant for now,
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
Ummm...

Battery powered heated gloves? All this putting lithium batteries under the seat and things, but you can get gloves with built in battery pack connections, including battery packs which are rechargeable.

https://buysimple.co.uk/products/rechargable-heated-motorcycle-gloves-battery-powered-warm-motorcycle-gloves?variant=41073196826781&gclid=CjwKCAjw6dmSBhBkEiwA_W-EoKQT3wTab3TkxminI88Wimj0V8h_tg6gDTVel4BXiqBd2NY_8GWf_BoCHkYQAvD_BwE

Something like that?


Agree - surely the simplest and they're generally more effective than heated grips too, plus I expect purpose-designed batteries will almost certainly be a lot lighter than any leisure/secondary battery on the bike, plus Mrs.Stinkwheel could charge the gloves at work presumably if the battery capacity is insufficient for keeping hands warm both ways. Plus, charging the gloves at work would save on the 'leccy bill. Thumbs Up
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