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B1N
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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PostPosted: 09:11 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: The 3D Print thread. Reply with quote
I thought it might be a good idea to have a 3D print thread for people to ask questions, post up what they have made and anything else 3D print related.

I printed these makeup brush holders for my daughter a few days ago.

I got them from this Thingiverse link.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4415512

The small holder is printed at 100%, the big one is scaled up to 140% in X and Y axis only.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Joined: 12 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
I actually want a 3D printer, it will be used to make things with threads on them so what kind a printer/ filament do I need? Budget can be up to £1,500.00 (exc. VAT) but must be new.
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P.
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Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
Budget can be up to £1,500.00 (exc. VAT) but must be new.


That is a very easy budget to work with!
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B1N
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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PostPosted: 14:00 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
I actually want a 3D printer, it will be used to make things with threads on them so what kind a printer/ filament do I need? Budget can be up to £1,500.00 (exc. VAT) but must be new.


The best thing to do is start by doing some research and finding out what material and methods others have used to make similar items to what you want to make.

As you are looking to print something threaded I'd presume it needs to be mechanically quite tough.

Tougher plastics need higher temperatures to print and usually emit nasty fumes while being extruded too so need enclosures and fume extraction systems, most lower end hobby printers just won't achieve the temps needed for those plastics, I've personally never printed with Nylon or ABS.

If the thread you need is of fine pitch you would need printer that can print to high dimensional accuracy which would then of course need a higher end printer, you would need to look at various printer specs to find out what you need for that, again according to the item you want to print.

If you want to make loads for resale you might want to look into injection moulding of which I know not very much, 3D printers are not very good production machines, they are slow and it is difficult to get them to achieve a nice surface finish.

Have a look at Prusa, some of their machines can print a variety of materials.

https://www.prusa3d.com/
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Joined: 12 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 15:40 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
B1N wrote:
The best thing to do is start by doing some research and finding out what material and methods others have used to make similar items to what you want to make.

As you are looking to print something threaded I'd presume it needs to be mechanically quite tough.

Tougher plastics need higher temperatures to print and usually emit nasty fumes while being extruded too so need enclosures and fume extraction systems, most lower end hobby printers just won't achieve the temps needed for those plastics, I've personally never printed with Nylon or ABS.

If the thread you need is of fine pitch you would need printer that can print to high dimensional accuracy which would then of course need a higher end printer, you would need to look at various printer specs to find out what you need for that, again according to the item you want to print.

If you want to make loads for resale you might want to look into injection moulding of which I know not very much, 3D printers are not very good production machines, they are slow and it is difficult to get them to achieve a nice surface finish.

Have a look at Prusa, some of their machines can print a variety of materials.

https://www.prusa3d.com/


Some great questions and pointers in there, so I will try to add more details:

1. The thread itself doesn't need to be mechanically tough, there are three uses for it:

(a) Rapid prototyping of threaded parts to check that they fit, etc. Also provide physical items for visualising and presenting to others who the products will be used with in addition to the CAD model,

(b) Same as (a) but the product will then be sent away for negative moulds to be made (so the part can be cast later),

(c) Ad-hoc requirements like making spacers, adapters, etc for jigging or whatever else is required on the fly without putting it out to someone else or taking the time to machine it ourselves on the mill/lathe.

2. Plastic doesn't need to be mechanically strong but it does need to be very near to the final part dimensions and tolerances. There will be fine threads so need the resolution (if that's the right term) and accuracy.

3. The parts are not for resale, they are for prototyping in plastic before making the actual parts from steel or aluminium.

Hope this gives a better idea!
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B1N
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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PostPosted: 22:31 - 20 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
I 3D printed the parts for a wheel balancing stand today.

The bearings were left over from another project, the chrome rod came from an old Epson printer I pulled apart for bits years ago.
I'll knock up a wood frame for it tomorrow. Smile
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4546098
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 24 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Lethal illegal weaponry only. Makeup brush holders? Shocked
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hellkat
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:57 - 24 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Shifty
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B1N
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 25 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ribenapigeon wrote:
Lethal illegal weaponry only. Makeup brush holders? Shocked


Nearly Laughing
I'm printing this for my daughter at the moment..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMIYkcR-Spo
I've finished all the 3D printed parts now, just working on the electronics at the moment which are going to be a bit more elaborate than his version.
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Ribenapigeon
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 25 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
B1N wrote:


Nearly Laughing
I'm printing this for my daughter at the moment..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMIYkcR-Spo
I've finished all the 3D printed parts now, just working on the electronics at the moment which are going to be a bit more elaborate than his version.


Im afraid im a bit of a snob about 3d printing. Its like the 3d version of painting by numbers. I used to work as an engineering and architectural model maker back before 3d printing was even a theory. Scratch building from architect and engineering drawings is a whole other ball game. Check this guy out for real talent https://youtu.be/dkFZr3mpt3I
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mentalboy
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 02:38 - 26 May 2022    Post subject: Re: The 3D Print thread. Reply with quote
B1N wrote:
I thought it might be a good idea to have a 3D print thread for people to ask questions, post up what they have made and anything else 3D print related.



There used to be quite a bit of interest in the subject...
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=251397
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bhinso
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Joined: 21 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 01 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
If I had a 3D printer, the first thing I'd print is duplicate 3D printers and sell them
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hellkat
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:16 - 07 Jun 2022    Post subject: Re: The 3D Print thread. Reply with quote
mentalboy wrote:

There used to be quite a bit of interest in the subject...
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=251397

Ah. The fiendishly gifted Mr Elysium Wub
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Hong Kong Phooey
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Joined: 30 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
B1N wrote:
Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
I actually want a 3D printer, it will be used to make things with threads on them so what kind a printer/ filament do I need? Budget can be up to £1,500.00 (exc. VAT) but must be new.


If the thread you need is of fine pitch you would need printer that can print to high dimensional accuracy which would then of course need a higher end printer


Wouldn't it be better to use a tap and die set to create the threads?
Make the bolt slightly oversized, the nut slightly under.

Or print the carcass to be bolted together with actual steel nuts and bolts, with the appropriately shaped recesses.

Pretty much any consumer grade 3D printer could achieve that.
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 14:01 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
This week I are mostly bin scrounging up stuff from Freecycle
and about to collect a Solidoodle2 3d printer so expect
requests for tips and tricks.

Yeah I know, it's 10 years old and no bragging rights to be had
but I'd like to get it working
A for the occasional time I actually need a 3d printer.
B just for the tinkering fun of it
C to share with my local tinkering community chums


https://images.freecycle.org/posts/images/15470312
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Last edited by WD Forte on 16:13 - 08 Jun 2022; edited 1 time in total
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just got back with it, it's still in the car.
The guy said it should still work as it just wasnt being used so got
stowed away.
He gave me a reels of filament, spares, cables and stuff with it
I'd have trotted down there just for the free clock gauge!

Had quick look for specs
and found:
ABS or PLA, (possibly nylon after some mods I'm told)
Build Volume 152 x 152 x 152 mm (6 x 6 x 6 in.)
Layer Resolution Low 400 micron (0.016 in.)
Layer Resolution High 100 micron (0.004 in.)
Nozzle Diameter 0.35 mm
Filament Diameter 1.75 mm
Print Speed Min. 50 mm/s
Print Speed Max. 100 mm/s
That'll do me
It does have a heated bed but not self levelling
hence the clock gauge I spose, not sure if this is a big issue
or just a chore one must endure?

https://imgur.com/fSXsYp1.jpg

https://imgur.com/agtHBrN.jpg

https://imgur.com/7CdanX2.jpg
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B1N
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Joined: 13 Feb 2022
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PostPosted: 18:26 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nicely snagged.
That sort of printer is called a 'Core-XY' type of 3d printer.
I'm looking at the pictures for some sort of LCD and control panel or SD card slot, if it hasn't got one then you will have to run it directly from a computer, laptop or small netbook.
If you are not already into raspberry pi there is a program called 'Pronterface' out there, it's an oldish program but still good and works well.

Did you get a disc with it with maybe a slicer program?
Is that just a spare PCB, I'm hoping it is and the printer won't have to to be wired up from scratch?

To be honest you have given yourself a heck of a steep learning curve starting with that printer, (or anything that old), it would make a great second printer once you got the hang of how to 3d print with something easier but good luck to you. Thumbs Up
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's got all the controller stuff on the back ( pic below)
taking the PSU out of the bed I found it has 5 more of those glass plate thingys with yellow film on them too
plus a roll of the yellow stuff
I shall take my time building a dossier of info on it
before powering it up in anger.
I found a couple of useful blogs on it with tips trick and what mods are good for it.
Reviews said it wasn't brilliant but could an Ok machine after you tweaked the setup

I'm told it has an Arduino based controller and I have couple of spare Mini ITX pcs here I've used to run my CNC machine on.
I can dedicate one of those for the 3d rig

There is some SW called Repetier? I think which is multi platform
and cheap or free to down load.
I want tidy up all the rats nest and map out all the connections an stuff and get to know what's what and what it does.

That inmost ( blue) PCB looks very much like an Arduino Mega to me


https://imgur.com/6xwrW9e.jpg
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 08 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ahh! once you get past the rats nest its all pretty straightforward.

It uses an Arduino mega 2560 with a Ramps 1.4 shield as a controller
the sauce code for the Marlin firmware is available online and OS so tweakable
The Ramps also has SD card reader inputs plus LCD capability too.
The boards and add ons for display and SD card reader are cheap AF too

amma gonna have fun pimping my freeD printer.
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