Loose wheel bearings

[ThunderGuts]

Just went to change the wheel bearings Now they’re pretty snug but there’s enough play for them be removed without force. I suspect this is what was creating the very slight play I have misinterpreted as worn bearings in the first place. Any ideas? New wheels/hubs are not easy to get in good condition. Is some sort of bearing retaining fluid a suitable fix? The bearings are the correct pattern parts but there is no sign of scoring on the hubs suggesting they were rotating in the hub housing.
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TG.

[MCN]

[Nobby the Bastard]

Pattern parts....
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Ste]

[slowasyoulike]

What are these pattern bearings you've bought? Last time I did the wheel bearings in my C90 SKF were like £6/set. A mate of mine insisted on buying the cheapest shite Chinese bearings he could get (actually not that much of a saving at £1.25 a side) for his and he had exactly the problems you describe.

I've had the same problem with correctly fitting bearings in a BMW C1 some years ago, and got around it by sticking them in with Loctite 641. So either that, or buying some better bearings, should sort it.

[Islander]

Loctite bearing retainer FTW. It's excellent stuff.

I had a similar problem on the rear wheel of my M900. The bearing was spinning in the wheel - not sloppy loose but no longer an intereference fit. Bearings were fitted with Loctite bearing retainer, left for a day to fully cure and I've had no problems since.

[ThunderGuts]

nd it worked a treat. Froze the bearings first and heated up the hub to help it in. Wheel spins perfectly now and no play.
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TG.

[Easy-X]

Loose bearings: general wear & tear or pointing to another problem?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Robby]

[ThunderGuts]

Did a 50 mile test ride (yes I did stop after a few miles to check!) and all is well. Spins freely with no play at all. When they next need attention I may consider a new hub but if a cheap fix works then may as well crack on. It’s hardly a precision racing machine.
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TG.

[stinkwheel]

The tolerances on cheap bearings can be pretty shite. We had terrible issues with them on overhead trolley wheels at a place I used to work, they weren't particularly load-bearing so we'd just used cheap ones (they were for running along the cross beam behind a gantry crane to stop the cables hanging down too far). You'd fit one in a wheel and it'd fall straight out, grab another from the same box and it was to press in. Went through gallons of green permabond.

We went back to koyo after that. The ones the crane itself ran on were always FAG or SKF.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]

Bearings are relatively cheap/inexpensive precision machines so skimping in that area is a bit retarded. (Unless you know exactly what you get from suppliers)
FAG, SKF, KONO, TIMKEN and cetera manufacture to international standards and are so precise that interchangeablity is common.
I would suggest that a wheel bearing on a bike may be a critical area. Not frequently changed and comparatively cheap.

And the big names do not hold back on information about their wares either. Some very informative details on bearings on big name websites etc.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.