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VFR750 "Shed find"

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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 15 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weekend off so plenty to do.

Cleaned up the road dirt off the headstock.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV2osGKifP9d2GsJjVkdXqGh3_sK_cBI8RvZ8WqLVCPWWGkE4XK8Hj6whss8ilFyqeh0Sw_NOBAy0GaHt7j5KLhntURm3yRq92jNsK_2pDVS-Nxoix2NSCcqiCX_d0HTlMwUQS1OdHpT2PggVhldZuW=w1378-h776-no

The bottom yoke wasn't as bad as it looked. Wire brushed the corrosion off with the bearing masked then brush painted with machine enamel. It can't be seen anyway so the paint is just for protection. I'd fitted taper roller bearings previously and they were in good order. Also re-attached the front subframe.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUfFFbjqec3vXxmxP-Gurm4Xzc87A-5sTQJ0ZwpeST1I0EACEiAHOFhIwewvyUIw7BoJr6DRZQH6W1WFAJ5iRRV3U9bzF5Hl1pWDOqM47GMeQZykgsdn84LntTyt-bLA8-TK3C1d_FhtjDd4kTS89JX=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVd6q1SmWYR4t-YH4wIQOsMp-80iWbXUxvjoCOHy3s3OGPo4w6x_3oYb10KBipYrlqX5T_scgSaGNb7pt0KGwRdjTLXlsiYL_UdYxOUlIy3KSoVhRfcJQAJSybxiJh_Ojx6qmKDbNnOGz_bo9qjfglp=w1378-h776-no

This bit took some time, there's a spaghetti-junction of wiring and relays in there and I'd re-wired the clocks with LEDs after the flexible PCB in the back of them failed. Unfortunately, the marker pen I'd marked which block connector goes where had worn off but I got everything in the right place on the second attempt.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUS1VzfZCsxVe5FvdTdU6zP0vGWsdtOcpMmp2fOXGYm4RzB_Cw4132CYkzbAEFqOhnuxDXcV1Zb29CbxygGrurYYVuSlFGiFHedB1xwJUE_yurx68zat-Ne7xkP8zdp9RxZQrqGK4d-Z3UPEq0A-Ty_=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXoc47JKwupOQvKvJFkcFy8HXmK3DYRhnV19H18an_8NgRCT7zHD3x9dnX9x4UbaHquPFvqp8p2gXdpOsmsINcCyjSm6RHpDzfSWORyYBd5bMPu6-csKWBvEnmW0TwOkrtpb9C9ffP3h3T0eEBBP9_8=w1378-h776-no

Now onto the fairings. Todays program has been brought to you by the step drill. Pros and cons of fibreglass. Pros, it's easy to work with and easy to repair. Cons, the dust is horrible stuff, so a nice hot sunny day working in long sleeves, gloves and a respirator.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX6brvTGONEz-sejOA3NM154soYQ26xTFBcBrFkETEJ_Xh1hp4MCCAo0ElkylVsZCDrQoZU5ASkaIF1CDHq4qzesGpElj9v5GKCflDEeVPOZXHBwPdP4hbm5PTyiUNzM1YkQCjF4PGJyPGEjOm0JsHE=w1378-h776-no

One piece front cowl. The original has about 10 pieces of plastic in it held together with door-card tabs. Replica fairings come with no holes drilled and no bracket attachments, you need to sort this out yourself.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUim1fbdUUHBM8rJXu8gLbgVaBcK78OM0Ca7iF4oNztlu0s065gg-WZYwhF1pxuST-AseMBZwSb0WRrIugvxEimqQyxpGRf1OTZ8EUkSypYkpKrwqtgsWR3z0l6QJPztJG6UaixjKFvHI7s0cOERwUe=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXc3EvDoKz-_4ondp72pPGu3g3YXDvqG7EgYkzMnLccPU5Qx1NO8gBpFh_POxDePEhqzSQlvMf3646MaFoSGe6UbhC-ApC8w1nrjkoAh69k8nObpkx07VfeI-MHmcJektrhRyJZlq5kvfkn6FSyyXlv=w436-h775-no

Loosely bolted on for now. I'll take the holes out bigger and fit rubber grommets in them for the final fitting.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXSlfkcbvQPJrXI1ePAOwnHpsv_Cqfutz3DokYb55aQc15bJ51YyKUn3q_TBnSt3fa3F7W4igsjFb74r_PKaQhgw8WY3G2ncbu23MyHvGKxsoZnV658LkkJop1bUduwZVahbsKmO2GXRXuyXXaRWzzN=w1378-h776-no

One-piece belly pan. You could fit a fluid catch sump to this if you were racing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWsNgQLhrH60z40jZEsPNk7PyQSjaLfTZ0dC6uACMLe1zNyI1g1u7Uw-MnKOM6XUswuwwZbrwcfl2o3ntppaqDAuat8cGBrsw_M02MxjqsyVeitkoAXckGlH40EewLBHjiuEd2nykBZAPt2LVncbArE=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVR73dEJ4Sqm0Afxank-s5u0-x8XjDACf6Xf-wKldXVWyv5-Ls80HNIJB82M7FdgxKlXa8I0rTaX-dQeyjCMJHQ6gwdOqYThh3AdbK0hz4XpLWFrOTaUpog3-XwgQwnBsZsCO3P-vp8rCcMZMLY1cdK=w1378-h776-no

Aftermarket exhaust + aftermarket fairing = fettling to do, but I wont cut it until the final fit-up. The standard one actually touches too and has a bit of heat shield on it so might land up going that way.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXiqxPIVnFSYesEtPFB96oKoYKY1WeBFn1EbfBBEww_WXBRxWviDto2IupwY2CnbLNBAFl4SLTjzwLrazIdMINApRu3Tc1Vi3HW5oVSiHNCPGf95CCDFri45kY-GBbKB89LKNeJHfvEftHAZHFOxXZ5=w1378-h776-no

Side panels also incorporate the front section that goes in front of the radiator. It's one of the flimsiest things out and is held in with well nuts so I'm pleased to see the back of it, it was without fail a total pain to fit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVsr_HQTY5wMPrSE7ZRRJ4KBv_cr-RhD3O-gDcqGAJXa6RlDQOqnT15ICj0rKCcdgvV5vtK4bJely7Fvca3Cp6eBxW9PgATtDHKtss1rwxwmOYNFA-3tvuwOmFY0s21WQFZGyLNSKPqmn9QMzbACIOX=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUs1_ZGM-cIpmva0ZlNVl9MsWt8vOcd32E4N9ox65amUsIK-NC6KGBLoMcuOqBNl_vYw3MsjzGx2yXMuBwW3kKgR1aZNtO9gVPTCPgM0lY3cIVJoB16khFrhQ7UyfU_I8C00lwdA2bkNokkaiRO5FX4=w1378-h776-no

Initial fit for checking and to see where the holes will go to fit the various pieces together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWc20IMiXs1ESqBmHzRsK04ma_3f0NPEfbf7EiK15m8MI_mzJA7zCjiPf8ceVhpfxkommtB0WIbniOosAHJpZgJplz1e8dz83QdG1BjLwtaEDsbfjTyXyQxxxyb9S3iWZLagE2pS8ih_GGRvgKyXrAP=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV3sIi0kzlSH8-jmBTPT3DedYUDIdGJtLb-9QivWGtBxDubcaAknHiZbAIH1GgOf5ZMyGvvKnCoiZPEY1VPuo2cEUnX4DQQx67sFo-ExQVZhm2bOPmLEdQR0wdyVDM98jG-IUM6xCyuKJNU_tRORj5x=w436-h775-no

The inside of it fouls the radiator cover/oil pipes. A simple fix, just needs half an inch cutting off the inside edge. You can easily cut fibreglass with a normal hacksaw or fine-toothed wood saw.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVl6UKPWYN8jb5RQc3EtiCBDbombCT9E_j_au95swx4LI4oZS0foEW_NTkSgmjNKbizCt1q7Hqp0OFDJa8W27UEj-IjBD8mNkO5pEU9pmd5FRHSCRctXkU1F0xyYM49jzV87Pb5AtZb2bT1iw40RbTU=w436-h775-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWV7WWoBaWoE_GSlXqEQHmGtSBsdFhhs9ff11vF0rWebk-0NFs-wdicv0fam2Jm41Ud-7j-o8FNF_k9XEn3HAqmHgHOfTrRLnZyRTzZ2zaABDGR_WY0sSZzwdT7OnCVawaHWw2ExHZamgfe2JrUWQvZ=w436-h775-no

A few gaps but they'll pull into shape when I fit the fasteners.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUaSaj36AlOZRK325tfmbpoaW6XIhL0Fu1JClu1Eyfk84EqcRHxDX0Zqi9oO0heyC4M9WI9Ur8DdE_tFjicKDzpSI_EO-6aCQrUNzX-Dlb7f02H7oCqKncvjGI5pt9EB-3o08iVQC2NWX3faOfp1ccJ=w1378-h776-no

This one is persistantly springy though, I'm going to have to fit an extra fastener here to hold it down.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWDtCpCKLLOVAlYsx9x9PNGJ59H3o81UMKvrZ_-XtRhxvBkRS1C5PQ0gpql6HCRTZatnhJJwiiMUYIVqGPXvPxPBmtflB8HS2bfDodkiT_hP5nWODyQKVQzU8JuYtuE9d0kpEan-r9zcamSfi0t2j6x=w1378-h776-no

This gap howevwer is a result of bent bracketry following previous crashes.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUQbyOP1gLgM_XErUA5AX8NqcMk1QXvg37PYF_-basjc_cgc-IZL6jyYPMlR5xx2RcwMU_7W9leBvxfhREgfJ0hgYZuGp-FkRCrPtrnBvbQU4PbfU78MC4osFuO7xDaX9odv8gkDjf1GZq7-c3uOcc2=w1378-h776-no

Easy fix.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWES7h6nxC4RENhqjYw_h1Cumxh2JbrNwBWVnKJGRwtLGgAzEXxZ6HfAjJw__shyIbJmOFpmuT98Q1A1gZwIYgnS34idFqqPyQCPbh60BhdncTogUdEwuLNWDqOmaCes7wIckQVwgJqaN6_cIPtIJ-P=w1378-h776-no

I'm using dzus 1/4 turn fasteners so having marked the hole centres, a lot of drilling and rivetting.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUSXYEvWHvXz6KmlL5KG1Iz77RVMrIou7tKy4O8QCS3kXvfRInr9wlL5qMLN_1p3ok0y1Es7OG6KGr0rqbwDZAUfgfnVkApZx9mHDBsWYEUopBfdjZxBM_DaDcPkgnRq6vuoKJ_5xhF5sTe8lSq-OmT=w1378-h776-no

The holes for the flashers were a total pain in the arse to cut out. An eccentric 4-sided hole on 2 planes. I roughed it out with a coping saw then filed the edges until I could get the flashers through. I was going to bond on a bracket to fit them to then I thought why not just bond them directly to the fairing? Any crash that breaks a flasher will also seriously damage the fairing which will need to be repaired anyway. So they can be cut out and replaced.

This also give me an oppertuinty to fill any gaps left by my inept hole cutting. Being fibreglass and gelcoat, epoxy resin bonds very strongly to it. I futher thickened some west-systems G-flex with glass microballoons to the consistancy of peanut butter and applied a fillet round each flasher.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVBsa-ayXfRBzIiXoo3pMv_o8UWDsOQARe2nvhIIQylLL-BYLJC6Ojkh2j5N_1ma2Sk1Jjv32jSKSwbhQA1w5dpzD1IzW1-n5a3XJhCufMwhmYZzKJZA-6RQS-o0mrh479rv2POmyjyR6ZaX-9acJ2I=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVeqCGzoSyfSyDgWoUjbnbos-KpfJhZeSH8i_yNbIzz4mDU_vgLwOtKbxPya3CsVsW8gC08fkt7LjhtJEiV3j65frsFIo8peOSV-rLsy2VSElIG74Y2qjQkyMwJ7baxWupFKPgTQR5yprlbGfOVGMzH=w1378-h776-no

As you can see, getting dark but that's the plastics at a point where they're pretty much ready for painting. The above took a full day, there were a few other things which I forgot to photograph like making some new brackets to replace ones that had got lost.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 15 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pleased I remembered to take the masking tape off as the epoxy started to go-off! Once it's painted, these will look like they were fitted properly. They are very firmly fixed, theyre not coming out again without cutting.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUG9N-wVCbYdnz75k2UgkJW6fjWqkPmmP_xbnvCbbjvV7hynrXIGwTQHh4ZebFjI7I5o3pY5Esi9c9aH4N2QO5_SGw3Qwfshv1AnWnJ7YEjmLaPFnbEf0lnqIF-vqROYe0YOWPsF6_7M9k4rVejmITT=w1378-h776-no

Now why did nobody remind me to fit this rubber splash-guard that keeps road dirt off the carbs and coils before I fitted the airbox? All had to come off again!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXssicHXbnUT0G9LPbyFgarLnTD5UOv6-QrODuDhhnr0U8QhNouI4sN4tDiXmphWQcv1NlzFaMexc9FfoV0Ww9eyCEaPGGo_wsMskY-nIP8l5akEICLhgDTfPhpjrEG-qoUXpwNs7yW0y2TY_LWoBOy=w1378-h776-no

Finally got the tank fully fitted. I'd lost the two rubber grommets and steel tube that go inside the tunnel on the tank. Typically, a non-standard size of top-hat grommet. I landed up paring down a larger pair. This took way longer than it should have done. The tank is entirely rubber mounted.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW286B2xSY_Qf_6TlDxKF-pTtj2eZmMd5g7TEFegqD1IOKzfoNA8htFuBT6yk454cczuoBvu8nlP7cNEEJEkwYJMmRAhnTpD4BJM5lHQbPPgESRBuFJj6vzufkblhwy6-c1A16E3UZ2oxTePO-_r7rg=w1378-h776-no

No going back now. I've robbed the sorted out forks and brakes off the old VFR and fitted an old, knackered set to wheel it about on. I might re-fit the firestorm front end and flog this, or I might keep it. Depends if the storage unit I've been promised comes up.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXcCRIOv7eHiMe6-vRF6qIWhesdSohUyeMH6wq2tagIhdBCvwbuFgLJ30g85xmNF1w_tq-ShC-Pz8KDMaCXoYIrYwk5siiqCoZUdNgreGAL59B3d76GibtG79JpCAuuIf_i6g2mlkupRhK1uDVnLonv=w436-h775-no

Since I'm robbing stuff, I'll be wanting this.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXo-C557yU98iM3Vzlx8kpyvga5UED50Br3x_T8C1bjWzQ1uOMwa9vr5RjEd2f6hv7Y4L9DFxddxE2vegeQQx6he4sM8Zh-P3yPh5bcWh4lg_-8HngxdTvHC-WMbBo6MUnD_cyMDPeSzN0nZ4-dLcFo=w1378-h776-no

The fuel pump normally sits in a rubber cup fittred to two tangs. I've bent the tangs over to hold a bracket and used a wee bit of carbdoard assisted design to make up a bracket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWd4HK8gp-1QJeUNkh6WEveKhJAMD09f-2XhCVfYn8QB9v2V6Am11h1XuoEZZkfos43UeX90MEFXeqG43P5EOue-K3Tu1P7KL3bc0VZGNAlJ1mkLKKgAqCW1AP1FZut_AqZF_JBoUTzptasQobAhq75=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVTn0l1HMtlz0BQcmLR_-HxiVSjsn5XcMrk7mzsaUESVX3xP_e_UiDAKEwd5tREZ_SfHZcKQ-to0Lq4Zs-uIcLYTRSzR1R9fJN1tP4o2fR4iE8_GcTMOyITXS9HpY8xiY1ep2gNdAIW8p2tWZ1BJ9eR=w1378-h776-no

Neat. I just hope it will fit under the tailpiece. It'll be close. New fuel filter also fitted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV5mOQxVMGVoOiF9CIHvSER0kUSuP0iQFP28N-rcJaG7iuSOFWcfb8EYTST1CWFGEN_BpkWr2YsRh58Wd5i-NS6K3UZUOvgg1diR-3JdnJsVJXU1AZIemnW2V8AclLCOmkbEC5SrPlLgk5IqHd4PMdY=w1378-h776-no

it fired up but was only running on 3. Problem traced to a loose connector on the coil I must have knocked when fitting the tank.

I also need to fit the headlamp. It normally bolts to the inside of the fairing but I'd rather have it attached to the subframe. It locates onto two rubber bungs so I'll have to puzzle-out a way of making and attaching brackets.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU0Nlw30lYO-VqrCDSnHKfu6rx6dE4mVJZGtrscFuzpeFdmNhu7LQGBPY9J4x59SKOVvTVPfWoJY_Y1mpQj3eQLtx2wC2sDLWIzdob2vr_SR_cM3LnF9STYmhY90YNrGLehxQ9tVHxqXz3d_6WO731Y=w1378-h776-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:00 - 15 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got some steel tube the same diameter as the subframe. I reckon the best way will be to make a couple of bends for the bottom fixing and slug them into the subframe.

Similar for the top fixing but I'll use a munsen ring (a pipe clamp which has a threaded hole attached for fitting water pipes to skirting boards or above hanging ceilings). Might get away with a bit of aluminium flat bar for the top fitting.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXwJ0oDmGDdGJ4Gq3XRBd2dypVayiKxoNtTd0NXiMdZAnCYvMcjktdsfMw79Sz2qlzn3UJOc6jqO8ACn-wBGHtDNguE5LJ5ioMFCdbKRZY6zwWZWYauSfDwcVzjD07wppST48SD3B2nJECHVtwf4gHJ=w1378-h776-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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struan80
World Chat Champion



Joined: 04 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 15 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wish I got enjoyment out of fixing things up Sad Spent a long time working as an engineer and really cannot be bothered with it anymore. After retiring from life. The cardboard is showing initiative mate. Looking forward to seeing the finished article.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 19:14 - 15 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

struan80 wrote:
I wish I got enjoyment out of fixing things up Sad Spent a long time working as an engineer and really cannot be bothered with it anymore. After retiring from life. The cardboard is showing initiative mate. Looking forward to seeing the finished article.


For me it's something different to work, although admittedly the fault finding process is very similar to what I use every day in veterinary medicine (list the faults, relate them to systems, identify common factors between the faults, list possible causes, carry out tests to eliminate the wrong causes) . It gets my head in a different place though.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 18 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some bigger jobs out of the way today on my day off to let me do some smaller assembly jobs in the evenings.

Stripping paint yesterday. New paint stripper sucks, I tried nitromorse and it took the plastikote bbq paint off the fork legs with the assistance of wire wool. Didn't even soften the stuff on ther calliper or front sprocket cover. However I have a secret stash of starchem.

Doing the calliper silver. It was black on this model, silver or gold on others. Silver because I have a can of silver VHT paint.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWbK5c2Yrvd4NopAv37iOAh0HVTXGK91EEPN_XnQzBZQyGVhiaexzzIjzc8XDvdk7J7z9hcKxwEThMgXbEPMKn9qWl8TRIuXHzW--jAysiq2DFOqn2mGzCZ_0CXF9x-VF5yd9JpMTIiUmRCV-7a9QVG=w1378-h776-no

Fork legs and sprocket cover done with black machine enamel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXPFHNRyS3-efBZiWqrw5znWtPsIeOMn1GVmCyNmrMF48pr7dDPf-faz71PNMW2df8xR36AdKUX8lChkeQeQOJtxrxCFi_cfQviEqm9i0BXeItt1yMIagZpq5liumkyJRMMGbX8LGSVo0lD15-YUXHR=w436-h775-no

Finish is a bit funky on this, I'd left the compressor turned up too high from the impact wrench but again, it's not really on display.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVGBa2RzmS5jEbwBOFBSJmyE87LOMTSBsI-rzDpjkKRLoy3ylRuHlLWsPUC2T5DhoUD0qJ_YqOfuJ3y8oWapbxgD2JonAnbcJmWHzLnRP0X66hgSb760bXevcZfHvBFs2NnEdZRzD-MQFtLNKmGLK_9=w641-h775-no

Nice sunny day so may as well do some epoxy work. One main split on the tailpiece and a couple of cracks round one of the fixing points.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVTDiRb91jSLtX1DtMiCUQ3x9sJc91m3w1dBiTpola9jh-rKsjj2rRvbnWUcynz3QKNwrebAyIUsNf0EcaYJDcWLQP56SSL_JxqbeTQJDq34FuOpIbRJAt8ve_a80yhEG8w5gAMdSLBXbSBuhgrHqIG=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUAnCdODlDe7h5dRr6b8I3WBPN6_KJhoD7FBZCNhc-huQI7MiTNYfYYnDfpVZvKNUFPnivlGfuUj2R4ff2UXXY6LAcFvkVF9VGLzAQOVVACf3MVNNgoudyXqXLx6gXDTgXiQYX2OOidCsTaDHfe3ki0=w1378-h776-no

"Stop holes" drilled at the end of the cracks to stop them spreading further.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXu18r2JxRoSHjyk5tVTtOqrWfrW-S4TcCKyUPFkYNoTyVwEOFqabpxRz3YT8IBrboTJszIsuBwElEOUlOOF6oOIVWVMUuX8s3S3Mnkq84FoZK73xHtIp7DKsynhn6I5TBqZonb_9rJ84ADBV42XymU=w1378-h776-no

V-ed out the inside of the cracks with a sharp blade then bonded them with G-flex. Then laid two layers of bias weave fibreglass over the wet g-flex on the inside and wet it out with standard epoxy. I have no idea why people persist in using chopped strands to repair bodywork, they just make an horriffic mess. The bias weave will conform to all but the tightest of curves and is a delight to work with.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWQYJBg9kA3piUridvgd3n7f5YZTrVFCfszcHneX7rrmJOcL0_3RJ1iYSo2KmOvG6w9G2L_rH2rmIsUlr9JfkjzwLt6AsA0wUbHeJV2JYY7u5m-4zmtuEHweS5VWp1viDI3OyF8geNbQ3C1R4lEK6eT=w1378-h776-no

Excess can be trimmed with a stanley knife once the epoxy has cured and the edge sanded smooth. I may scrape on a second filler coat of epoxy if this goes off quickly (should do, it's super warm and sunny today).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWQvCmxQc9XyVcTbkuw7tM50UqP3qdml7QocAqNtX2uehlIjmhjWWqAnmz_OCKgkjaDpLPABVjcAHDKQiQxFkFTd5O04ej4BLwRDkYvyZQciOSFe-_3u2Uc8wRwU0iJzcqWXSmG9w2f_TCDyvNLSOqy=w1378-h776-no

Rear hugger is also in need of attention while I have epoxy mixed. It picked up a stone at some point and my quick and dirty hot glue repair with it in-situ isn't really ideal.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXOx2qe2AWCPWkoe_rTpS4LiF8XQcOQv7l4x8FA8mmL8xAoOiuAO_Bim5vYbmAuYczXlprLQzkPjcWoD6guo3Y7mS1LIrKjfeu8J0uK2GkmL32xygocYQMu8hF8tgtdt_7AQ8LpilRSxWaIt2V6QbTe=w1378-h776-no

This will probably need another couple of layers of cloth but I don't have a vacuum bag so I'll just trap air if I do too much at once. I've given this a good soaking in epoxy because the carbon fibre cloth was exposed and a bit limp in places.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVYAET7-l_k4ZhEuLcu5VxHhEYva0pqUuXA7zJOzmS8xUfC1fo5yZIgC0NajFQIq58Px6l8aw5AQ0Lq4UoWGuiJckdEG5QViuZQBfCbyuQDUFRn-y1Wziab0R6XfLxHpL9tyKhDtILk_jzMa4i7NL9S=w1378-h776-no

Front brake callipers in the ultrasonic for a freshen up. Once the paint's hardened on the forks, I can start fitting bars, heated grips, brakes, switchgear etc. This might be a good time to have a go at the seat latch. Needs freeing off, greasing and a new cable making. Once that's on, I can fit the tailpiece.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 18:42 - 18 May 2022; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 18:39 - 18 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a week or so in a jam jar of diesel, the seat lock came apart and after another 15 minutes in the ultrasonic it even works!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXDEsRz_gpL2uVBYkYdqdpzgPCED4QDy5RhvyRuqLu2_wWTyO4Fx0K8mSfl30Uk9tmkhJMeSoevDMP0PcSUnubYkVExa2mOfYmpTFcFZl4L-3QovmiWYHVSShvXt0GU2oUJMMYCKU4Tj6anLvPg55jN=w1378-h776-no

Latch back on and new bowden cable made and fitted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV113jHZxJb8lIn7LO4ApzrlYaFir-YSjBMS7m4FJlj21E7iV5JajhrquDhRrMMwzQQ6chbKRua3qZ9gLGwQrY9wXCptWazlLmYReyqXTFZaV3UZjbyPN7_knpvgDuIvhBzTQZ0WDKsY9aXxwJS6pWn=w1378-h776-no

The rear hanger and the lock are strill a bit manky, I took them back off again for a better clean-up. I'll probably just black phosphate that rusty bit, paint would stop it working properly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUrXLAdxQ87mVszTM-pKUC0XKnmzHdE90FXy3zhxRZvtMFGRwuuWH5jUc6MWRikldpakem8b2VZnLzKW9ZWQDZNGzz-A-hvCLLM-EgZZ-NMuO8z17mYJlNpID3a5HtILsoWXyTGvDinp9s_ZCR28kcY=w1378-h776-no

I'd bee putting off fitting the exhausts because i knew it would be a fiddle. It was. The clearance for the back tyre is waffer theen. I even looked at oval cans but they are just as wide and this one is period correct for the bike. I had to cut the joining piece at an angle to accommodate the bend in the link pipe, I also had to modify the hanger to have the can a little lower and further out. Then I had to dismantle the can and reassemble it again so the micron badge was on the outside rather than the top and the tail piece angles out rather than into the numberplate.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUT-ScZSQAGvUxcaqfvJyyVR9dORpA4f2V1UVs4sR4p3zhMMGJXr8hpdoOyu1qm0sQ1WJe1dBFbXUYlst4o2h5pFJ0u7PxnpjNHwnAueTZSx6g42mu_g_i0JUxjiusRngiArYSjLxOu7DH_vUNYAtBW=w1378-h776-no

I sprung for the A4 stainless mikalor clamps so the shouldn't rot off. Happily, this can breathes so freely, it's not particularly prone to blowing at the joints anyway, it was just on a slip joint before and that sealed fine. If it does leak, there's always plumbers silicone.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW3X2HiXiJDH3E5Svlwz5UiTBUMO9UrnpMs8Zt-EypZf-G8jATWawLa_ltyrBmAmJVawmThDD1fjWoxhm9ZKMQQT4AQk1WdLKxDx7nf74jUVrWTAqvfcYit0EB0w65f3F-Q2kU1TIzLytsDo52n1lpX=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVGJP3PyUwALWcZMpeQ3mRIXwNoyf8dh28rBmDsVcDm7C82J0jJAUBsu1sF-UhxIwsYMw0zN918RzaNZdbz9bfpnkycC1oMBrUDuGHtxSB5xv0MJERxdW3p1zoc8co2vaCZwClgOKbR4J4ugbu-edIM=w1378-h776-no

I also took the time to clean up the clutch slave cylinder. I thought I was going to have to rebuild it but I reckon it's good.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUbJp4SqVSofN_xPM8XI9H51oNtcbZ5KK3aDX3VFJ5s6CrkTdMhyAzTQEttm5Be8aVY2PVW40b6-JiZnFw5Jex5_TxdQCneX0UfYC__OKSjgD7pq74yxW4_gJEYTwkNXTpn8SFdzq67lpq9Gr1SfqMY=w1378-h776-no

I've found what looks like a tidy VFR1200 shock on ebay so that's on its way.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 22 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

On call this weekend so can't start anything that can't be left put away in a few minutes.

Rear brake calliper. New pistons, slider pins, seals, rubber boots and pads. It would have been cheaper to buy a good second hand one but by doing this, it'll be like new. And with stainelss pistons.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVmKHxWQiOka7aoIWJNsEe7XJtI7qrSqg3th7CMPwINc5TUKuBa6Pp9nDgxZ1DoZoVyM3p-gIl8NvCz5SnAFmVg2r0t4S-hzzyaA36jNsCOhoaEWCHHiihpQiDbuxnXH9nvp4hzBA6JV3KA2FQ8MA_M=w436-h775-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVgaA3OHEy45B56d-yFzy5n5Ecf0I-prIN2Gk7IHugN7JSNHgK9h-XnEwVJRlwq9fem2tOL0lERE7eKoYCiqbazmao4U5swaXhv7FSkQxe3t3DRMUzknlnl2gEUleXSEHlHGJ2g6Miv1uINoXD9-ftS=w1378-h776-no

Somehow managed not to loose the spring clips and pad backings.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV-GQ3-ZME3os96G3CiEb4DtcW9u4zeaT1h7ufjOHsykTprLFiuplDdQBTdWi_bNwh-3ugJ5VOECG7BTuJhrI1cOLxwOzlYINZYtcwZzGFy8piM73ZcBtmOokU5uopjEad_XDiZvR85qKERYwwXLanQ=w436-h775-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWuIh-TvJ6l4ru_uaB6l9JdmANhcGeFkYNHnVXGHklDAV9L-4-kdLIjvKJWpaabCEOgTROHEsk2UfPZ464E8Ddk20kJivguwSe9Ki6e0BSisTxB_v-rs95IceVoDkJRz16VrUpMbCxb6NGE688dXsZc=w436-h775-no

Also fitted a new piston and boot on the master cylinder.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW-iSKRPLNYB6WbQkIVrXkB6i-QC6M1zX5BfyIo3YQrF--NYuPq3GfmJwFL436JvBv6b0qtwFkwdTs-hQz8YwuFilvcN663tqQ9WkiPnoe3QUXfBSOo3ofHRPD9ysOfVQDKMyfIul-PybCqdDZ9gSdK=w1378-h776-no

Paint nicely hardened so fited the forks and freshly powder coated front wheel. fresh bearings, new road 6 tyre. Even more amazingly, I found the wheel spindle which was put away in a box of bits before I moved house 11 years ago in the first place I looked!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWkl1E5AJJAR4CI3Gb945jMPa25lqBxzuEe06SqZTRxs4dgPRlCSBVoeuWvjeJ3WShniNivmq9RklF5E9-mMZZ0XzrYcJjFZCFDyBbaN_Rgl5zOP3RqPXOlCgZk3_4-tUnLIdCcIIUswhFKsTAXWVh3=w436-h775-no

Nothing wrong with the discs. Fitted with new stretch bolts and torqued down. Put a little ceramic grease between the disc and mounting posts to prevent galling/corrosion but in fairness, the finish on the carrier is very tough and hasn't been damaged since they were fitted to the other bike.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV_m0YVtkmhCr0QLyTwDpaY8fjaxl5EuaeaZbFqoKJnx5CcDUY-syO5xGUcO-9j2Wx-2iLYO8fVD1QWwweaHf7xwK5Wy7PLBrHKym4OkuenKqdVDL7wembWAEAKLGazwTmVkCYbKIhIKMYsrsnUE8tG=w436-h775-no

Bars and switchgear fitted, new left handlebar from the breakers because the one I had on was off a different model. The forks are standard lowers with fettled VTR1000 innards and custom weight springs, so slightly shorter than standard. Hence fitting them as low as they go. I usually run standard VFR forks dropped through the yoke about 3/4 of an inch to improve tip-in on corners and these land up about the same ride-height.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUCUTPdnrSoJPtp4EkHbgdwHPMmKraKo2oE__FAPHtuWLD59GLn6ba4DqkoTfYFo-jxZJAd8yqAflRMzzmI7Pd6S8msJ3PPLHeWd5a5BVqsHaZ3i-3DScYBw6ojK2jGvLX6Pu5n1S9vc_js4A8MRURf=w1378-h776-no

Cleaned the corrosion off the clutch push-rod with wire wool. These can start binding in the seal and is a common cause of nasty clutch action or even slipping on these bikes.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWfEAZd2_HsrYZwYllOGiJOGOLzFSNOKH--gjyF2vbrFlkodT4-4kh0vORsd5G9geDr_9PBJpqr4BQg-MUClG2NkUqPtsNU7TPWw7l2Phoi4ZlOvjoqj-qmYt6ppkp7pDfBUn4liuB-wDnFcOUziRok=w436-h775-no

Front sprocket cover back on, clutch slave cylinder and speedo drive refitted and new clutch hose as it was on the original 25 year old rubber one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXMpfgPr3wI2aYEmAPCbujVkeMq7VCbkYCmJijhClNWeAYVmhtvQswr63VDZ5HUQNaVBc_0IVhsWN6e_cbXj3LsRe8QaAOZETnwUvvkbRUz4_REfOwysOpDtt8pNECA1u6hAQ2HFjkKRFCUTeaA8ZMD=w1378-h776-no

Just spent about 45 minutes stripping the clutch master cylinder. Had to drill out one of the cover screws which rounded even with the proper JIS screwdriver. Also had a bastard of a job getting the circlip out, the holes are marginally smaller than standard so the pins on the pliers only just get a grip. All in the ultrasonic now ready for fitting a new piston and seals.

Now it's sat on the front wheel I can clean up and refit the brakes, fit the mudguard and will be able to remove the old shock when the new one arrives. I'm going to fit new terminals to the coils when I do this (they are more accessible when the battery box is removed for the shock fitting) and while the back wheel is out, I can fit the hugger and rear calliper.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 26 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've applied several thick coat of "a good looking at" to the headlamp mounting conundrum, also emptied out all the spare bits of alloy tube and offcuts I have lying about. the aim is to have the headlamp mounted on the subframe so the nose fairing is easy to take on and off and so the plastic tags don't snap off the headlamp or fairing in the event of a crash. Here's what i came up with.

Two bits of alloy tube.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXknA-s4KhWnST2kGGH0HdsfFwDr2p6back9yVadLjslyNVsAxYuAjpkS-mC1gAP-PWRdJE6mfvLP_F_EwSZBptM2v7MUAnAL07FZYgZeZFXfJQkqKbS1ZGBO7IskiY6a6JJ6GmrxTYMI9j8i37FaIE=w1378-h776-no

Joined them together with aluminium solder. If you try to get it too neat, you land up melting it all off again. Neatness will come with practice I think. Using a reducing flame with the MAPP made this a lot easier than last time I tried to use the stuff. You have to have a conventional blowlap roaring hot on a high oxidising flame to get enough heat into the metal.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUNGWXonRjSnQkYlvtvTAO4Bxp7bkBiOcDIj_-_EhUoFLw1Z-_S102xYEvgadSr6dw5b0DY5UM53UVG4vd4Jp95Bqv1XrmfLUIKSFD3ylievy9ud9294m4bV8um43a6lp9WRUdR5NqVcdCiOr-lVBvG=w1378-h776-no

Also needs a bend in it. The trick here is to heat the aluminium to just above the temperature where sharpie burns off. It then becomes quite plastic and bends like rubber.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVXO9xGq07u8f1-uMo0TaNOz7ihw8J6N1Dr2xpGeiiWHtXh9mL8qfGajiKwaNj3uquYYFdEhk7P260AWpd2cVu7HDm1fAFId9tMiaA4xvz0m5V7hqV-Oq6v2j6N9E90HEEt57ANJdB_wc-zue8FqEi1=w1378-h776-no

Slugged the end, soldered it in and cut a thread.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXw3O6zA3SkeNjG35Fn6s6FjsXyE4SBHusOM_iJY5ISepskmxUVjDODds0TbMGxPFiDeA4uSy-9lfc4qNnTw9cQQi_mGIiMmmtgMgvE2GPRTo05A_IUWtPP_bSIlZ5pS46fUDcrNnj9fEb4DUxc5_Uc=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWYOnTDarR7WgwLRJLQVgtUdohtfen41gFpr0pqEhT0zoNHh7PXCAskNdatvblA8Dq7AED1YnJwRE5BOfmsNlwnkcwsKVaKM8HEmewyKjA_YmJHjCnXL6r8h291hogIPqxjJX4wBXCuIYTxoo1Ts68G=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXD3u7LUWDr15PH-6ZLqql_vlqWVjkf_ctDNNmVy6wwFSKm_QbNwIJ19y8hEUOzwd8xi4XsV7xlLT1CBhF-mnZ65qiZqtd_vL7KOhc9pe8CsgceGG735ts0GJxfNLbh3EsTXEkCwI4mKpxd2GsiuJCV=w1378-h776-no

And we have a bracket that will slip up into the end of the subframe, held in place with two over-riding wedges like you'd fit bar-end weights with.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU_P14rMEDJfUoESMDPc-Ck1Rkl4LJ6of-nEZ4XSHdQ0de2VOHvj9N1o5u9-JiYCPgnxfQDCMdBHPcSD_E-7B8bJt90dyZ08vp5zI9w3YPPV_NaYujMYupeYWHHcvzGMoIOsZIupdTjkIJNix-nblkl=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW9lQdW8bmpVz5YjlDHuOGmz7RGy-YQ3SAdEdROmuBRf2famEcikePpZ_jKQPouRnNay46ynb5houo72HJaQZOUYAyJoLYuw-uAcqAH6_vR2AY95QDigu4MvDOfk4w6tdCEkNMkYuZfIaqhdevXRgTr=w1378-h776-no

Similar (but not identical as it turns out) thing for the other side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWyxLx07aCff8ht3KlH5PnIoIzyMHEcGC7deDhesTxINIHaKo_pjPOpUWGliUKMEJMDfcjuhWkhA3p9szW1hHg-BqDl0FNsD_TW8ZIUJyzlUF5cMmYhN3rgigDhF14FaIcgz66YiG4PLLcCYH7kEuGZ=w1378-h776-no

Then the top mountings. I got some stainless munsen rings (pipe clamp with a threaded boss attached) that clamp over the subframe.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUTw3PKTmh9Wwng8pfWAhNtUKNRlSQHN9fNL2KuzioZbX-ICiEV4ewJ9j0mbWJKRVetrTgDfeQqmU1dxxrekr2HqtfIc83OHARkxEKLJPQSCmTeM5GHL0wMV703IT9pKwmcLKT1nzF7RVgneZPiIFXN=w1378-h776-no

Drill a couple of holes in a piece of thick alloy bar.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW6ADDtSQAFy5Oi7ig6_tf7V7PKpXAA_hcqZNkwep7OD1ivjxSl9Uiw0zkiml_nO07bGxN30f6dRnbQyROiqmMyL5-cPf11jRGUoTHN_bvdY9X6WMzYBb23cKtfDx1IcDTNr6wxCA-iROK24zn7_WDI=w1378-h776-no

Recess and solder in a piece of alloy tube and fit a thread insert.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW4pt8igxekfPa0Z5VvdkaaPy0m3YPuk6A7uxeTmRPEfPT87WNBfJAThMpYcdBz6G7JKWg64_lMEbS-u1c-oYW6U39AYZNHPviEX0cHSuraZG_srmzUunUdJNHs9tDpsTPX5W_4jTxYritbIdyNEQxw=w1378-h776-no

Attach to munsen ring.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXTWzdRXoHLUc9bKl0KMoDsfk-nl4YVIGCrNmuGfWJ5IZWm6gnjKyoTQoGJkWKSDwutjaW6RyMgbzqJowq7cNfhZADBw46IuMksGHB1T6yzowR1P0ptJFYb0VMYbtB3GUwr1B3AK5CsQfGe091YY4nw=w1378-h776-no

Attach to headlamp.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWZ3hC5Utwy-Xv-llpeyEO3Q1vCpVZMw-AHe-IUThLQquVHH9k7vA6lMvTmdfIgUZubwusF0IKxhNVAu6jt5sp8sSDuGRuFidw5JWV69hr3qnw8r1mZLeTg687V6c-r7yWQ5r0ScC4cLlDHU4-naXAH=w1378-h776-no

Headlamp solidly attached. I remembered to fit a decent pair of bulbs and check they are working bofore fitting!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU--xxVXKdtk3BsmmOimtflx99qLZHy9ttlEWW3rHApW91kUko6HbATOBNt1vheL1hgf-ZcStwYUohoIJJB3RycAzmW7viiYrT8Lau9UJHDauawUcJwCOSjnz1LMHUSsQq6sVftOcw7pNCBBYiIs_EK=w1378-h776-no

Test fit the top cowl to make sure it's aligned and the brackets don't foul anything. It's starting to look like a motorbike now!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVxtFb8x5zGqczSO9P7970StNBEEwmDSffQjZc6UYURaFbOOe9uf1u4zLbsMTbQxxx50Az1M90Yybb-OqT2hZDvWTwtu3UGJPQYKrVFPdu_bmDJR0jNKK-thKmyFY3zNXF3-D5SCTHbMhwKNpqDT6GZ=w1378-h776-no

Next job is the arse end which is a case of extending the hose on the rear preload adjuster of the new shock (remembering to thread it through the frame), brake calliper, hugger, new terminals on the coils, accessory fuse box and wiring for the heated grips, tailpiece and rack.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 29 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to change the shock. Old one out first. You dismount the coils and starter solenoid then und two screws in the bottom of the battery box and remove a metal plate. This gives you access to the top of the shock. You lift it out through here, it can't be untangled from the single side swingarm otherwise without removing the swingarm.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVfrrvXK8fON1idDl464FNNkjfnjqWj2fYpbTzniW0LfFJ5J_tPXAPvMduInnJcMSEA_BfyBx_F1Do-ckgtnW0xKo53_97VhdA1yEPJQ5m1E3vpJr3Shu5MV0cQ_G2dRJkOFh_rhA8rHh3fUHe3_ewk=w1378-h776-no

I'm fitting a VFR1200 shock for now. It was cheap and is in way better nick than the existing one and is in theory at least, the same length and spec. It has a remote preload adjuster which is something I will find useful but it was on a very short hose, I've fitted a much longer hydraulic line.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXcA7qpku6XULWz2uHjGd3LavoyHYIK3Wcg5oAVmw2PZiDpLkObwqcqQQKF-grx7C63of4kX0zDJ4z07WFMitdcX43gtyYNEbQrrWJlMAAOQCkk1JCoHvW7jMBrZgLFunWOILDx-m7gh28DrvTB_uF0=w1378-h776-no

I could find no official info at all about dismantling the master cylinder, re-filling it and what spec of fluid goes in it. It turns out the lid/adjuster knob is just a push-fit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV5c5SmQi3uKTE6RISfpauUPIL6QAK5b0DGX6pGUonBncpz2KhnhMHYjN7bfeQyyKSoGI_pSCWCuYtII8-y_GJWPqO0O7w0UOpmrCtLSXYCCi1Hqyf9Il3i592yhjUt6MA5CdfdI9tx6psTha1Vp5mR=w1378-h776-no

It contains two pingshits (sprung ball bearings) that sit in the two holes in the lid and engage with a little dimple inside the reservoir to make the "clicks". I had an idea there would be which is why i took it to bits over a towel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVBokUkynrUiwP8nVqs5rRcpIJWqk1ad_pAaCK_gAItt2uckRZUYTpQ-78iRGgi3192lniyk5CgNi9rqSADB-GD0Rw-yWZukbmJ6mPwTgOhJtn5xBzY5GeBSj6atCuHEXdoeUflwZJbLBTdOPG4B8DV=w1378-h776-no

The internal circlip was nippy as hell to remove, eventually got it with a very small, sharp screwdriver. Then the piston pushes up and out with a small drift from the bottom.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVztKECeIIuGdkLURAZMDx7wyjw0SJl5296PSXuqMf2eH2lMuUAJYKsW0cq-EltSN4jyIYLT3cEPSrRFpQ-VlQd0rNHjFSon5LoCo9KJ5P-tkKZLtmLXdlvCVE6Z4McBuV9HJUIZGRShMYKy1eX_YbS=w1378-h776-no

Most people were suggesting some sort of mineral hydraulic oil was probably in there. I decided to mix some of what came out in water to confirm it wasn't brake fluid or hydroelestic fluid (both of which would either dissolve or emulsify). Does not mix with water so mineral oil it is. I opted for fork oil.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU9-ghgcJMfLqHjgcjZSMmu4fKH5Ve0aUOcVFltu5HGbWtazfNSXDwTVJTuNHUzTDkhogdhF3nhAcNOTqi3jxLsikNs_MYC5bj3jGZRJ3wAuHH9b1tyCF0YCIU7nAJ5TsnHSmoX0R611ougq8kW3JNc=w1378-h776-no

No bleeding instructions but it's a closed hydraulic system so it wants no air in it. I filled the slave end with oil before attaching the banjo. I then set the reservoir above the shock and filled it with oil, leaving the bottom banjo loose and waited until oil flowed out before nipping it up. That should be the bottom end and the line filled with oil.

I then made sure it was above the normal level of oil, cracked the top banjo slightly and lowered the piston down into it being careful to allow any air bubbles to escape past it before the seal engaged (so the piston was fully submerged in oil before the seal engaged). I continuied to force the piston down until it was level with the circlip groove by allowing it to force oil down out of the top banjo, then nipped the banjo up and popped in the circlip before cleaning the excess oil out from the space above the piston.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV7XDEHIgJkhVys9xsdGDWU2Q1w-XJB5k8PBHG3WJJ0cqZ4K7Fn0KbJwuwQIV9fwePAizZePfsH9DARHD-VRjTggSTB34lf5CXacukGfusSecb6sDwRXa_Fyj_PF-IDJGnJwV7IdTmFOCkJ1Be-mJSl=w1378-h776-no

Then a test. If there is air trapped in the system, the air will compress instead of the slave cylinder forcing the spring down.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVpX46CQ3Py7QUYAxYPGMh4VwZtSSbrR7aSbxEvYWdJoaCcS9VaQzuqDCw3RbPphWtb2q-fImj7G_sGWHhqPsreHe1a-Ux-K0wGGOsZYkciUR-nvbSk5QZzG9cOkqTJdvmb8k6JUTK6csDbBSTAw2bK=w1378-h776-no

Success, and the same range of movement as it had before.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVFzKrs1DKLS5zGcS7E0O8_bFdQihp3q71JDu5ynKar47UnUwN66uc9LRVKlVjJjfuX5Dsp9Cz6M9kpvATRhViMHOGr739UL2sNXlsg4tO-GBwKVpZViVvxkLrnS83DwUfchHjQSYA86_8xtzVkT3_h=w1378-h776-no

then just a case of carefully pushing the cap back on without losing the ball bearings. I'm going to mount it up under the tailpiece, a simple bracket will be required but no point making it until I see where the tailpiece sits.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXwb1GfNZbgrp0Kzd3dU8B_595CY2Jbq1KfcEB_tus2dGqkmX3-roh7K3Rar2IhUkGAoJkclSJwNaciqPU-UB3GEFsX665eLxaXeb_W8f81mRx0HZIwvh9N7hHuZwSNEfvYqomgX1IYtwTHBweU3u4v=w1378-h776-no

I forgot to take pictures of mounting the rear calliper but it's a simple pivot bolt into the anti-torque bar which is secured with a split-pin and two mounting bolts onto the carrier. You can see it in the background of the next few pictures.

Fixed a bit of silicone tube over the end of the hugger bracket that rests on the swingarm to stop it rubbing any further.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVaYfo0gFDV-QslZAxSHwZa9pOqKEqbX3ln0bYGypcOSLNsDWeilxgrTEVctCCrTzjRtGuhPrGgvbJL7VskKMMCvogtW0UQNMdALOM-NG-Z033cY0f_rgvEgFEsLLHW0SMl_VsDi0dZpHRTHjh9IiDx=w1378-h776-no

Attached the repaired hugger. I've bonded a repair washer to the outside of the holes in it to stop the holes ovalling further.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUuuAxdo1cvi3Ynd5X-2Hz7N03ia2fAGPVm66Fp0DgDnGjZil_GSkeYUw3jnJ-AWUb_P0lCQS77kWILvCwPGwiytiOLwmZIXPks-aKYGmp_avd2mNQiFCOgCvemp-zdZ7Yw8Yxbz14BiJcyvUrgAf_Z=w1378-h776-no

There was a big chunk missing at the back corner so I've bonded an alloy plate to it as a mounting. it's not really load-bearing anyway, just stops it rattling bout. the brake line goes inside the hugger. This all looks scary until you realise it's all sat inside the "hollow" of the wheel like car brakes.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLW_Nvd6ngY4nkuQqKUhaO-54UMz5HrTKxJRtSOSO1L16a_8GexW7DGbZKroLgBF79HsMyWEcdBUsBuV74xbyb4eiSViuCDwvavwuxnFFfM4bjwpkoUf7auhgHsgu1BgawHPgZSknTSZL13wY-OL3KqS=w1378-h776-no

I've been putting off cleaning up the footpeg hangers but I'm going to have to now or I'll have nowhere to fit the rear master cylinder to. i think I'll get a hydraulic banjo switch for the brake light because conventional mechanical ones are a constant source of annoyance. I'll use the live feed to it to trigger my relay for the grip heaters too. I'll order new front brake and clutch switches too.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 14:13 - 03 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more job at the tail end then I can put the plastics back on. I want some switched, fused power outlets for the front end. One for heated grips, one for a USB socket and a spare. I'll also hook the voltmeter into these.

4-core multicore cable to run alongside the loom up to the front. three power and an earth return, the current rating is way more than I'll be using even with all three feeds sharing an earth but I might loop each device to a frame earth at the front anyway for redundancy.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVj4_V0w_H-uD0nAzUZpy7u89-xIR0qlxRgw2NpQn4xxpxhkQRI6H8Atb3Flnny7NjREj07uBWZ3K7M23nNwuiWqc2lU9PnzaGnS0ZFQQVQpusueQxaURnmKSV9N16Ct9jhTowBwYHx3o2omBvXYUwS=w1378-h776-no

You can buy little plastic fuse and relay holders quite cheaply that hold 3 fuses and a relay so the three bits of multicore clicked into the fuse outputs and an orange cable for the switched live feed looped along the inputs.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUAe31rh8Vu83px18I1X2PIHjW3szdV0yRetwCzO62xo-8xEm5rKYvFEOxxWhcoKOvULsLgVxtbAqAxh-htywRPPRs2DpzQIG1SuogykKMN39gXP4jULjAkQV2qrXjARKppD2VfUPiLRnnOoEzfPI0P=w1378-h776-no

Switched live to terminal 87 of a 4-pin SPNO relay. A red live feed from the battery to terminal 30. The multicore earth and a green earth wire to the battery earth in terminal 86. A black flying wire for the switching input to terminal 85 to be connected to the new rear brake switch when it arrives.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXH7biO3KfTRgiGcB1TgcbiKO3pdZv5W_i4tb_G3Q1p4exsdPXKhr1979RVXTRgeD4MS_2UBblbiZsVp_ZN2Zc_mf1uwZlpCGFJlZB3YTfK61LytfZNrfWBvU7aPGLpEdhrAhSYEVSQLbHu5PcXQbIy=w1378-h776-no

This seems a neat and out of the way place to put it and mounts with a simple L-bracket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXyjVdWsagl8c8F6AD2Of_a3GesuzXcAsvPBMxZgYlT7NnfXx_lF5qprB8wF_1phyzeQLozqT53L9oIRUSmvlKZWes9QrTzSKlT6GX1PaGhtYaP2UInYWnM6skXuK-c7AM0FuZ2SsCPe0dgjIyf0u8R=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVDm8JhDoxRUfzRdNShONcYlUUm17vzY9kboroCRE7XEFOxcRvSfeeVjslgZuDrAlqTnaM3lVI0Npb12p91AVlqL6vUglYE5DanI-rOU7V6_3GF7N7BjRphi_OKgjp68e-icEDCmwWKFbO2ktUATt6n=w1378-h776-no

Ring terminals on the red and green and neatly routed to hook up to the battery.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXZ_m-ww0y8P5PDpZuPIwhan4ku1mhBtFhu50z6S0_g8l8ygidGvm-tWF3ll0hPLIXveikJg8RGKkpJ_jky513DlAabpy7fT-krodzLBMmp1qNvXdNCBWyxkavW5ZUWePTvZTsE-qesFM3s6LK_fj0F=w1378-h776-no

Nice. Happy with that. New correct size battery also fitted. Fuses left out for now until there's something on the end of them. Touching the black wire to the positive sees the relay click and 12V at the fuse holders so all working.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWfYOa0GkuwV_naGVm711Kowofsgs9lgrOWogxTABfXcbN4D_DAXhkp1PeIsNQinnfjzSh3UTwo2pPfO5jwHqWxvJ8mdJBy8VSWRHKzN8dFtySsfRcgpFN8JN_39JT8o9xYx3IXRO53CcUAgPP0Hx8y=w1378-h776-no

Rear footpeg hangers cleaned up with scotchbrite and attached.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXKMLrLcU-6FdtTeC1TKe3a4V_NuCmfT4pOInct60yhuh31wmHLDW-UkH8OgJU2aMkQGbE6bUgZ1i0rWauu9SOeS4C44fkcXEw1d8owrWTqjHP3iTiGSyxXSQ1qs7JuJ62SU5z3w0BZGhm0bskDSazG=w436-h775-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUCFDa8qKTdVFNV5aAXiI6onQalr-hxTfR8PD3aw9w2i3j10ZoRzFSkbxtTVZmXqs5GyZsTb-nbQ0sRoz1wVEGMLkgdSFrWNpjUsuJlKvGvzq0cf6LUOOW1kV6TKAhlVDi9v1BrRESEd_LFyrFoJOX1=w1378-h776-no

A bit of cardboard assisted design for an alloy bracket (excuse the chequer-plate, I didn't have any thickish plain alloy plate left, someone needs to hurry up and throw some more out in the scrap metal bin next door to my work).

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWS7Q_qLptDdhzw98rqtATwMl3wKtoRD6drO3ILyQdPr57jWgAeipbAFeDiYUrIlACV_NlODh6Mnz-ldvdiFBTucCOuV7kZ7MqEIGm0-y8I7t-VLV8TPEmwVjsy4vdFZQ37elgHEzVMy8XLLN8XoLiA=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUwm5yDF6b6UM94R6Jz9yC9Z3zk7Q0gpnEoJAyyMEsLdWbuKg4Rthpr3Cgda6EqZ0aaH0Q5MvMfw9EbyuVT54c94HLwhdg-3Gp0arA1TJKUzTDUGBVvE1gudfOU_baPZ7ucUxehDdU4Q_S4vnKcgZm7=w1378-h776-no

Preload adjuster mounted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUs-Vj8QSCWU-BjdYJD4fyYqloVRpj67zWqcpA744mdeYbSr1tyvursxcbTP0Ck-aeG0GHs5TTBD50s21VAGoYhz_ZnnqVNF_sMu7f54oTy6OS1k8LlWxVqv-vvIPnYofgeGqxfSObLpzkrsI8ZmanH=w1378-h776-no

Tailpiece attached, luggage rack on. Lights hooked up and working. One of the flashers wasn't working which was quickly traced to a rusty earth on the bulb holder.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXswUxEFjqsPrEABkmCoCBFW2oQL8W115ekFxKeByxSmvXEbw0ou7KsrLYRzi2gYR3hWGlgbzhAs03lkIRHBN3bpQ-Rf6okCoQe6yJB8vCTBqcxcWfBrFdYKUlVzYhICj-dkn1nzEJepEopAudPSnwW=w1378-h776-no

Toolkit, puncture repair, cable repair and set of crashed but still working levers stowed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVxPekaMSa0y7cWx5gjHyyFGJeQauglNk8gifRDv2rGoYugS9iW7SSCIYCdZn61VY2ge7Ot00Cn3-h4fLN4_pRVssyBSGMk7v7MUpCudm4belCJEQZ-Gi-L5_OdfbqNAUAc7KL8bH_u71BqSflOOp45=w1378-h776-no

Seat back on, release catch functioning.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLURReAj1VclWsnLP60KeH_5OFaK6uhtzqbqAZIQaAmqLQlCBEuNEaffpHbCob7-WGjGyHB8dLGFDrXVf0gQ8z8EfGkZZhjPubeTUknB2dG4Cgef-ipWkr2CpJRusQWrOhFHKlRhHkPg3lowzHCzJ0xV=w1378-h776-no

The footpegs were worn and wobbly. For some reason, CBR1000R ones are about half the price of VFR ones. They are 1.5mm too wide and the pins are 5mm too long but nothing that can't be sorted with a few strokes of a file and a small alloy spacer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUQvKAtjyXet_hIuIMejmWO2Cf3jZn53KVgdrTqX61XTPZ6muSTPVSAz7x7vByGL9_chwqIRuAaMaJdMctMbYKjt6GMigM4lyugu4ewwq3NdrWhyxppwsJy0eBGjdSAQEkeGx3wJig5DAQSvWSNQvHw=w1378-h776-no

Gear lever also painted up and refitted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVXxv8Hwl_NMVj9ctaaVkDgECNf5_435O5oxCJ5sIx-XxnXsDba837tNAWLjxuKwzvxd5fnMxia_SsMwPmyofm1-8QMPqm-XxmtRew1ePmQkcb9rNm2v-BCYfJPIsxPzpYEVYIMwonYCdxhW4OrYsAP=w1378-h776-no

Rear brake assembly reassembled, heat shield found in a box of bits. Awaiting the hydraulic brake switch. Of course, I also forgot to mount the fluid reservoir up under the tailpiece so it'll have to come off again. or at least be moved to one side a bit. I'm going to fit a new clevis joint too because this one is rusty as hell and I've lost the clevis pin.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUnRFmnz-JzpfZLPVvBZMX-PGT2sd9axD2jH05jC6kWI08THrhLGfdMQVMyShcJpQMtcOAj1RTrsNcPnmhtyZrF6XskwklorPj3J5Tfn34wMCsJWRTQmduClHIQq_717af7a2dLSgTPRWqRW0FVA2ce=w436-h775-no

Still waiting for the hydraulic switches for the brake and clutch lights so can't bleed anything through yet. I'll try and fit the heated grips and voltmeter this afternoon.

Not too much to do to be rideable now. i might take it for an MOT with just the nose fairing attached (for the flashers), then I can do some road testing before painting and fitting all the plastics. Must remember to put proper coolant in it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
Karma :

PostPosted: 23:47 - 16 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the clutch bushing and pushrod arrived. Cost more than the lever.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWtZpMIig5kPCMqebJmh0ddiz37th7uYaQKIm7-2A7y0k8TSNYikLRmm1G__WVNOWL16LIZmgfUfO-E9_Ihez77ik8YjgP3oLmPAJssEiKzBkbjMVrXzWXNBS5BrB9cuN1z2T4g_0Bd3INlM4twk0yn=w1378-h776-no

All fitted along with the hydraulic banjo switch. I spent ages bleeding the clutch, couldn't get a proper stroke on the lever. It turns out I'd fitted one of the seals the wrong way round in the master cylinder. Rolling Eyes

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWYzM8sOVH0xcMgjVvuu40fgNGl9C3j1SZdtSmwBbgTo27z7w2eDiJzTOMHmQzDw8asdfCiZ-jhQ3t8uV94vaReIRp2MT_qDpMNNj82aCLr7be_P6Glph1EuXxrSN5G6CReHfUu7Fb2YHp6LlSHx4cY=w1378-h776-no

A bit dark but this is the inside of the fuse box cover, I cut a rectangular hole and fitted a mini LED voltmeter then epoxied it in so it's weather proof. The orange stuff is masking tape I used as a dam to hold the epoxy in place while it cured. It was not very effective, I'd use blu tak or gaffa tape next time.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUX4CgbNfAU6hQFEuHE9INo3O78g_1ZlN5dsw13HB45zzzz9Htj3fMGvnpirYJ5-PnSQaM0y25AgXU9p7SCSvOaAbk0sHfQn2PwHiknuuAkDvNyetXw0Q8SfhCmsEwrY1g2ITT1Nr-C7zomM4tYzDdi=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWcOvTOU4oL-JfbLOihGnypBG8ZWMBv3bYl1eoQT2iAREjssTjZQ3Bpz4lH_D4heXClE22t2DKps52chjqN55e-N_FEEK5cru_GpKbE-fi3HDy9qsO7_EhfDy5jfU_s2CQDPQ7zzgA7QRgvEGvAd8x6=w1378-h776-no

Nice and easy to read but not intrusive on the dash.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUiO84KMIYJSeAhSTawmKiJDaVnIPO-jEzmgZK3KOxzAAThpkEOHp91_gpNMR5X6Ex5SvM4Q6qZ8eVUpVGHUd20XNWThuBFOHaT87Zk7W3fkUqW1yXb_lVXmqaXOMDivHsCS6RotIsPwbfE6qwucMRe=w1378-h776-no

While I'm on wiring. A USB charger might come in handy. I'm fitting the transformer up under the clocks with a flying socket coming up into the region of the top yoke so stuff can be plugged in there or it can be moved up inside a tank bag.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUTw4fEIOAvzn6Kjrv_Cuwk19ULCI3hXE6U49drQAOXuh4p-Q5c1Kn3a2VSHUMjeDSJOzFuVObbxaSbluaDo6Ziq4LQSH-p-jB4ylMaUV0qVJ46dSAUKPwJ1m--PwUoaMy9BvSmQpiO8VInRJuHs-cO=w1378-h776-no

Check it's working before I put the top fairing back on.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWwHamlAhu3-R66mWAombdd83f0fVr6v8hU41NYaopPRDRTme-995tkXFKufZ0Kttq0F-r8vz2PVzbx-8u8DyqopJ-qFM7lMgwqb4J4Xq7lr1DEjbVrZSch1-vs1Bb9-PLjr4Is9xqOMJpsoT6f_16w=w1378-h776-no

The rear brake lever has a lot of play on it so I've fitted a new clevis joint.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLV9lqwDxcDAXc9NT1PLb0I5C5vo5KBBOe5ZbA3mUaILeaWGODWdumOc_EtlHinHoJuRNkzVCyOMuDOtRglSAHhmxgwt9RGtjcCNHVEJjCgymD9Zqtgj-WITOkVGx2TmoLi6CL1lS4Gxq21q_VQdwwqk=w1378-h776-no

Also another hydraulic switch.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWSza1Yl6IghLnodPDfimQVf_SrDbG4jp6DErtnWfw3qgJzhMiYDPnkZB0aEzEgkBpQeT89vLJCAZzBYfqRsaaLo0TX-G8QA7k5_dLaoDs17umCpS5VMr1VsLllXaAQPpclrjYXVqdU6hSGalV3l2Gi=w436-h775-no

I managed to wiggle the terminals for the original rear brake light out of their housing and inserted the ones for the new switch, along with the trigger wire for the accessory relay.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVtLtAHFt5Iv8JqureUh6DTIld59_GWmunizxDiLLuLTlBX1TkshzS0UlWu0w8t0BtSRtmkfmZ7huwrZpp3wybMc4ltNWuvUpicr42-igjKEOvXFLEUQprE0nrYtjrnNCbwU0Cr9lWGSvtummvG_Wtt=w1378-h776-no

Also a double banjo switch for the front brake.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXZ4XZxDyliTvsZ4-lmgRRiu4ftpMAN40K6Q38IZjed76eAdiTJ2U7skBl8KzhyvJ8JB1gQPlY2PwOFZul2WD4I7qbP4R8fTlPFk6Ch85OeEqooo3f9wInx545Xz98aIafQcRqi5_FsJl-WAE5MaAMk=w1378-h776-no

So a lot of bleeding hydraulics.

I did remember to put proper coolant into it. On firing it up, the float stuck slightly in the back right cylinder which flooded. Cue much pissing about wiggling sparkplugs out without removing all the bodywork again. It's possible with the back cylinders, if you want access to the front ones, the radiator has to be detached.

I had half an idea I might take the bike on a club run next weekend so I threw the nose fairing back on, attached mirrors, put the scabby rear wheel on and hooked up the flashers so it's MOT-able. I then decided this was a stupid idea and a sure way to have a long trip home in an AA van. Mrs stinkwheel says I can borrow her CBR if we're going further than a comfortable distance on the Enfield. Then I can do some more local road testing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU--75mVjXHhYu2uloPNNG1KjVrNndFLhrsYqjd5iOonfv0IdciUVETF50XLNJbBKJqo2SChNFDn0JQOdoTxSReEu_sbz-OKkoBufKAEJJ1lvxfY4LVB9gi4Eq2owM_LR_7qcrUqbrrPKo6VshwB11e=w436-h775-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLX4O0c_FD71X_D9uyzMWz0GyjKb_TtD9T_g2MVhKSARdEuajsrDA-pM1u6f5sXNf4rK1HVejpvONOjQOYPUqzqmBxA19AO_T0tTMiVC6XyUlb92JAfNM0IpTcb3idjNuQvGp0OLzrTIz_gD6GzidUvt=w1378-h776-no

A sneaky 3 mile road test revealed no major issues. Clutch still rattles like a ducati and I had the front wheel twisted in the yokes. The VFR12 shock seems acceptable for now.

Dash now has a voltmeter, heated grip controller and USB socket on velcro.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLWjVBqrMqud3e9aUjmN44lu0lZnqQZPSImKfPnaSM-TRaRN2zz5jFOGmCr9Ivl476Ywm6j0gfuymxcZNztQRDRrJHJfsGEtmj6ggTaZpqz8HlAIlFOmHCrD81e_kkuVtS4ybmYn2_iFfglsb8NFB13s=w1378-h776-no

Needs MOT, good wheel fitting and the plastics painting. I found a couple of extra jobs that need doing on the plastics so the screen is firmly attached.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Bhud
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Joined: 11 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 16 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooh! Getting there.
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struan80
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good Smile
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 19 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've put it off for long enough, these plastics need painting. As I said, I'm using epifanes yacht enamel which is tough as old boots and designed to go onto gelcoated GRP.

In an unusual fit of organisation, I decided to read the instructions for prep and thinning and watched some youtube videos on setting up my HPLV spray gun. They give you detailed instructions on the pressure, nozzle size and viscosity to use for best results. The jam jar with a hole in is my ersatz viscosity cup. 100ml should run through a 4mm hole in 20-22 seconds when it's properly thinned. I also ran it through a filter after mixing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXl40OM2UIwyDHN9upruHJAaDmsn9btuAAf8HIjv7SZ9iVAyXBKGj-gO5YCn34UoQYubMMx3ORnF9DP3sLIaAXgVWwjb85QgjiRqAcDH0hUZ2uO74G8U3NEZ2wEgvJLSnew2dMgAm16Rpciszf3blCv=w1378-h776-no

Correct viscosity seemed to be the magic bullet for getting a decent finish. just the first coat and I've put it on a bit too thick in places but it's to rub down and recoat 1 or 2 times more anyway. It's a matt finish so no need for laquer.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXf8xWJmPNDI3rOA8RHLJ681dp_lJlTX3vCRLIH8ooS3EAd9ERE9a8ABuCZU8YEK06gsW2ge4ZCHvhSlybL3aiP5HbSpk_ATguhhtI0paIlOeVXOHALHy9w7v-S6uxVd9SZbQ4oRWz5G3Y15c3-Rdbr=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVOV6y_xzpT1s3e_M3ptdUDGLoN7NQh4npRZmWmkgZKd_e55OZsSDTcgg6NKmcDnyXTBr7JP117TS6NMdZOTD5lUmYIwusB2mEtXHU-RPzLaDMg_F0quvebVmPdqmIKk4TrnNxWneD54TbIghvsbMf6=w1378-h776-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLU_o5WzTGsZBsTY2jJvjNEbmdvYcOxbfRIPwwsHgzjuayXQR1oCDuh4Ndzrw7rvU4SMdu_T28gCiHlxwG-nOryemsU9MNyayADqkPIgukQxkhzMFgw4a8h3CroIkp7E2Z6_MdxX6jbD4-JDsRFIfGlK=w1378-h776-no

Masked up the nose piece too. Amazing how many flies I accumulated in a 4 mile test run.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLVYPgE05fFIjyW2_2NnBpQ7OtrDURg88gpztOx7itzmN8mAyCHNIeP2pQVJG_L526sw3UxZBLZq6qicPtVVLSbbPg7BgbROGdVHPHOmTpTQcyulKsl4oXkODx0Fn83ztk7tZRqRMGHDrWYLu4hK6c3O=w1378-h776-no

Also (hopefully) the last of the fittings, I just used delrin block with a thread cut into it then epoxied in place.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLXARb6vg-mQ1ugtiJVNUD0IgeZpIpPGEbddkfp6sEuGlr0xjQl8j92FoQqC3yezCacC3_UfDTBzUDfVhnJxmbezKW5Wcr82Q_P-yP0D28v4i4REwipiqs1fk1cWkdpyqSEH593RFpqwXYJ_xCTu_w4J=w1378-h776-no

There are some black trim pieces (fake air scoops etc) to add once it's painted but I'm just going to attach them with black silicone, it seems to hold up well and they are in no way load bearing.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AM-JKLUUjasUlv8_9DWUsBNG_hLQygx82GN2qO1eeJbLEH0pGa4PDINmk8jRiwRBDvEnn9Kc9G-w4bI2DPM1dP5BPGUK0wdRtY5ueaiJPcUlAbMdpjcluBpec4Ed4RJLpgA6Ij3-nAdsx0ifxWGcrhJ1pLgf=w1378-h776-no

They need to sit for at least 24h now before they can be sanded.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 19 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
The jam jar with a hole in is my ersatz viscosity cup. 100ml should run through a 4mm hole in 20-22 seconds when it's properly thinned. I also ran it through a filter after mixing.


Interesting idea Thumbs Up

On the black silicone, make sure to get exterior UV and mould resistant Smile
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Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 19 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
The jam jar with a hole in is my ersatz viscosity cup. 100ml should run through a 4mm hole in 20-22 seconds when it's properly thinned. I also ran it through a filter after mixing.


Interesting idea Thumbs Up


I should add that it doesn't work all that well, I found the paint won't run out if you put the lid on the jar because it forms a vacuum. I put 100ml in the jar then poured it back through the hole in the lid (without the lid on the jar) into the bigger jar.

I'd say this HPLV spray gun used 1/4 as much paint as my old traditional one and has next to no overspray.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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struan80
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Joined: 04 Nov 2014
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 06 Aug 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any updates?
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