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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:13 - 08 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

PS.. you might ask SFM to check the compression and valve clearance wile he's in there..as there might be something more to #2s 'funk' than meets the eye.

PPS.. or that might piss him off if you appear to be telling him how to do his job
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 08 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure he will have done those but I will ask him.
Thank you for the explanation, most of which I understood Cool
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 09 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Just as an aside here's an example of how you'd sense direction with an optical wheel:

https://www.labbookpages.co.uk/circuits/wheelEncoder.html

tl;dr two sensors and you arrange things so the pulse overlaps hint at the direction.

Anyhoo, you can fiddle with the timing to make reversibility slightly easier or harder but probably better off chasing down why the engine stalls and fix that.



I've found the reason, but not sure on the solution.


The points open at the correct time, but actually close about the same time after TDC- this is the cause for the backwards running, but a second side effect of that is this:

The coil is being charged too much. Points should roughly be open from half to 3/4 of the total rotation of the crankshaft. This means the coil overheats and causes improper running in various guises.

So, I know the problem now, finally- but not sure on how to get around this. The cam (and I've tried others which I know are good) are original and not worn. If I open up the gap of the contact breakers to an extreme amount then indeed they act accordingly to how they are supposed to- but that is then out of timable range of course.

Hmmmmmm... I'm wondering if the crankshaft is not true. The easiest and cheapest solution is to buy another electronic ignition unit- that would circumvent this problem, but I wanted to keep the bike original and on points! Rolling Eyes
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 09 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
I'm pretty sure he will have done those but I will ask him.
Thank you for the explanation, most of which I understood Cool

Thumbs Up Wink
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:38 - 09 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

blurredman wrote:
I've found the reason, but not sure on the solution.


Only the cam profile would dictate how long points hold open for from a mechanical perspective but how that translates to spark... what about the condensor?
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 09 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put bar end mirrors on, and made a switch holder from a 30p 22mm pipe clamp and Sugru for my garage door opener.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 10 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

After waiting seemingly forever for the Fuel Pressure Regulator to arrive from the states, that got chaged out and cured the running issues. Changed out the oil, oil filter and air flter as the tank was up, so might as well, and it stunk of petrol.
https://i.imgur.com/es4Rvz8l.jpg

Also stuck on the fancy adjustable lowering pegs in Ti she got me for my birthday, becuse I'm a lanky bastid. Need to adjust gear lever and prake pedal now, but it's all good so far. Old vs New
https://i.imgur.com/kJqNd4ol.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jhBSQZnl.jpg
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 11 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bumped into an interesting new chap who has the same sort of Snarley as mine and we had a helpful conversation.

So I have asked a local buddy to arrange for it to either be completed asap or transported elsewhere.
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B1N
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 11 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

blurredman wrote:
I've found the reason, but not sure on the solution.

The points open at the correct time, but actually close about the same time after TDC- this is the cause for the backwards running, but a second side effect of that is this:

The coil is being charged too much. Points should roughly be open from half to 3/4 of the total rotation of the crankshaft. This means the coil overheats and causes improper running in various guises.

So, I know the problem now, finally- but not sure on how to get around this. The cam (and I've tried others which I know are good) are original and not worn. If I open up the gap of the contact breakers to an extreme amount then indeed they act accordingly to how they are supposed to- but that is then out of timable range of course.

Hmmmmmm... I'm wondering if the crankshaft is not true. The easiest and cheapest solution is to buy another electronic ignition unit- that would circumvent this problem, but I wanted to keep the bike original and on points! Rolling Eyes


Have you tried a new condenser?
A leaking condenser will definitely heat up the coil.
If you use an electronic ignition always take the condenser out.
Good luck Thumbs Up
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 11 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The old fella wanted to try out the "Autotune" feature on the Breakout so we went down to Box Hill on what turned out to be a lovely afternoon. Seems to improving things slightly. Really needs a few hundred miles logged so WIP.

Just for a change I borrowed his Triumph Bonneville America (a fancy Speedmaster) very different to the XSR obviously! The pipes aren't quite as loud as the Harley but they are obnoxious - a bit rat-a-tat-tat - think the baffle packing needs redoing.

Going round normal bends is a bit bizarre with how much I needed to wrestle it over to the side of the tyre but conversely it seems turning the handle bars to a certain point it wants to fall into full-lock. Doing right angle turns at the lights is therefore trivial (it is an "America" I suppose) but some sharper bends I found myself fighting the steering in the opposite direction. Not sure that's normal but the old fella just said "you should have tried it before I upgraded the suspension!"

I can't say it was as comfortable as my rose-tinted spectacles for cruisers would have expected but foot plates are always good for a laugh. Unfortunately this particular bike has very swept-back handlebars and my wrists just couldn't get on with the extreme angle. I'll stick with my XSR Smile
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 13 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the reason. The crankshaft is out of true/balance. This is the route of my cause. Anything else is just a plaster that doesn't fix the proper issue, whether that be electronic ignition or otherwise.

So it's engine out again at some point.. Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 19 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
I have asked a local buddy to arrange for it to either be completed asap


Well well! My buddy visiting and politely requesting that the Snarley be done "in 10 days or ..." appears to have worked. Apparently I will be able to pick it up next week.

Got something or other on order from America to do with the swinging arm but when that arrives I can take it back and they will put it on.

So fingers crossed for Saturday Dance!
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:47 - 19 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

With regards to the handling of the Triumph mentioned previously I checked the tyre pressures: 10psi at the front and 25 at the back, I think the old fella's trying to kill me Smile
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 20 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
With regards to the handling of the Triumph mentioned previously I checked the tyre pressures: 10psi at the front and 25 at the back, I think the old fella's trying to kill me Smile


Shocked
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P.
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PostPosted: 10:24 - 20 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, filled the tank with "diluted as per the guides" phosphoric acid to try and resolve the rusty tank and get it back to serviceable use.

Looks to be a bit too rusty, as it appears to have eaten a small hole at the bottom back corner of the tank.

Ordered another tank, but I must say that acid does work absolute wonders, it looks near on spotless in there, so something to consider next time.

Have also worked on the wiring, removed the scotch locked headlight wire to some shitty chinese DRL type LED bar. Snipped, stripped, soldered and popped some heat shrink to put that wire back into a non shit state. Normally I'd not have bothered with such a small nick in the wire and just pop a little insulation tape round it, but that area seems to get a bit grotty from the road so worth the hassle.

Also wired in a nice lightweight fuse box and 2 relays so I can wire in my USB stuff and satnav, helpfully the 12v feed to rear lights is the easiest wire to find and splice in to, so repeated the same process as the front lights.

Should be ready to go once the new tank and fuel tap/seal arrives.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 20 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Well, filled the tank with "diluted as per the guides" phosphoric acid to try and resolve the rusty tank and get it back to serviceable use.

Looks to be a bit too rusty, as it appears to have eaten a small hole at the bottom back corner of the tank.

Ordered another tank, but I must say that acid does work absolute wonders, it looks near on spotless in there, so something to consider next time.



Thumbs Up I'd be tempted to try lead soldering (never done it myself yet though) for just one or two holes..
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Robby
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PostPosted: 13:10 - 21 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't. If it's thin enough to rust through in one area, there will be other areas not far behind. The tank is fucked, replacements are available.

Also any kind of repair work on tanks always ends up being far harder than it should, and nearly always needs a respray afterwards. It gets quite expensive quickly.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 21 Sep 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
I wouldn't. If it's thin enough to rust through in one area, there will be other areas not far behind. The tank is fucked, replacements are available.

Also any kind of repair work on tanks always ends up being far harder than it should, and nearly always needs a respray afterwards. It gets quite expensive quickly.


Fair comment - probably a fool's errand when rotting from the inside.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 19:10 - 02 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the freshly-fettled GSX out for a little run down to Kent.
Sportster ... what Sportster Question
Mr. Green Laughing Mr. Green Laughing
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 20:06 - 02 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
Took the freshly-fettled GSX out for a little run down to Kent.
Sportster ... what Sportster Question
Mr. Green Laughing Mr. Green Laughing


how were the newly released ponies, did you notice much difference?
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 02 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking
Hard to say, as I've hardly ridden it in over 5 years.

But it was very smooth - I've spent too long on the Snarley and had forgotten what a joy it is to be smooth and fast Cool - and being able to corner with your hips and elbows Cool

When I originally rode it back from Milan it was definitely as zoomy as it was today Mr. Green Thumbs Up - but you can't really build up a head of steam riding in from Maidstone to Docklands. The M2 was quite, errrr ... fun Shifty

In fact my biggest buzz on the way home - despite having to squint into the setting sun - is the moment I came over Beckton Alps (home straights) and was rewarded with a perfect sunset view of all the pointy buildings of London - Canary Wharf, the Shard and assorted other new ones that I can't remember what/where.
It actually was beautiful.
One of those "I know I could live in NZ but ..." moments. Brick Wall Laughing Laughing
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 03 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

T140 isn't running well, seems to only be firing one cylinder Sad Left I would say is weak spark and right is non-existent. Still, these are most likely the original >40yo coils so time for replacements. The KZ1000 did a similar thing - performance dropping off until the point of no spark at all - and new coils cheered it right up. Hopefully it's the same for the Triumph.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:42 - 03 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
T140 isn't running well, seems to only be firing one cylinder Sad Left I would say is weak spark and right is non-existent. Still, these are most likely the original >40yo coils so time for replacements. The KZ1000 did a similar thing - performance dropping off until the point of no spark at all - and new coils cheered it right up. Hopefully it's the same for the Triumph.

Had similar with my GT250 (also 45 year old coils). - it would run - when it felt like it..

Happier now with some fresh coils .
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 03 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slight wobble: took the description of Lucas coils on faith "12V coils for Triumphs from 1968..." Errr no, even though it's a 12V electrical system on the bike the two coils are in series, wasted spark, so it's actually two 6V coils, when I checked the wiring diagram Rolling Eyes Luckily they hadn't been sent out yet so we should get the correct ones.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 15:24 - 03 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally it seems I have fixed a idle issue with one of the bikes. After all the messing around I did, it seems like either the HT lead or cap is at fault. Both of which I installed new about 2 years ago... Crying or Very sad

Still. Seems fixed! Cool
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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