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Cbf 125 headlight not working

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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay.

There are three wires going to the back light. What colours are they?

One is earth, one is power for the brake light and one is the power for the rear light.

Does the brake light work? It doesn't need to be running but just turned on for this to light up.
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mariust5
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 26 Oct 2022
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok , there's a Light Blue , Yellow , Green and Yellow and Green as main , 2 more for indicators .

The Back light only comes on when the engine is running , so does the brake from the foot brake , the hand brake not coming on , i'm sure it was working before .

thanks .
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DannoXYZ
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 10 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
mariust5 wrote:

Only thing i'd do is the old twist the 2 wires together and tape over . Get rid of the blocks Smile


You're not too old to get your arse smacked!

Ideally use crimp connectors applied with the correct crimping tool. If you can't do that, use soldered splices covered with shrink tube.

Don't even do that as it's far from ideal. Crimps do not provide adequate mechanical strength, we've all pulled wires out of crimped-only connections before. Nor do they provide sufficient contact area for best conductivity. And no long-term corrosion resistance. A proper joint requires 3 separate properties:

1. mechanical strength - best to tie western-union/linesman knot, you'll want to be able to hang 50kg from wire with proper joint (or up to strength of wire itself)

2. electrical conductivity - provided by solder with much, much more contact surface area than any other method. Least amount of resistance and heating up joint.

3. corrosion resistance - from adhesive shrink-wrap tubing with much higher 5:1 shrinkage ratio than non-adhesive. Adhesive also seals gaps to prevent moisture from creeping in and causing green/black wire disease.

It is done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability. This will restore OEM-spec and quality wiring as if wire was one-piece continuous through joint. Will clean up that rat's nest you have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhzXRIj5FaY

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_zn5YwFw0fusgGp6D
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DannoXYZ
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 10 Oct 2011
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

mariust5 wrote:
Ok , there's a Light Blue , Yellow , Green and Yellow and Green as main , 2 more for indicators .

The Back light only comes on when the engine is running , so does the brake from the foot brake , the hand brake not coming on , i'm sure it was working before .

thanks .

Yellow is power to tail-light.
Green/yellow is brake-light power. It comes from brake-light switches. Measure for power on that line when brake-lever switch with squeezed.

If no power, measure black wire at brake-lever switch for input power to switch. Should be +12v. Black line should have power since brake-pedal switch is working Adjust/replace brake-lever switch if there's power coming in, but not going out.

Trace yellow forward. It should branch off (T) directly to marker lights and position-light in headlamp housing.

Yellow ultimately ends at dimmer-switch.

headlight low - power back out as white to low-beam filament
headlight high - blue to high-beam
left winker - orange wire out of dimmer-switch
right winker - light-blue wire out of dimmer switch

green is common ground for all lights
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 03 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

DannoXYZ wrote:

Don't even do that as it's far from ideal. Crimps do not provide adequate mechanical strength, we've all pulled wires out of crimped-only connections before. Nor do they provide sufficient contact area for best conductivity. And no long-term corrosion resistance. A proper joint requires 3 separate properties:

1. mechanical strength - best to tie western-union/linesman knot, you'll want to be able to hang 50kg from wire with proper joint (or up to strength of wire itself)

2. electrical conductivity - provided by solder with much, much more contact surface area than any other method. Least amount of resistance and heating up joint.

3. corrosion resistance - from adhesive shrink-wrap tubing with much higher 5:1 shrinkage ratio than non-adhesive. Adhesive also seals gaps to prevent moisture from creeping in and causing green/black wire disease.

It is done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability. This will restore OEM-spec and quality wiring as if wire was one-piece continuous through joint. Will clean up that rat's nest you have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhzXRIj5FaY

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_zn5YwFw0fusgGp6D


Nah.

You missed metallurgy.

Solder is hard. Copper is soft. Recently heated copper is even softer because it's just been annealed.

If you have a high movement joint (like motorcycle wiring going round a headstock or attached to the handlebars) a solid piece of copper wire will bend roughly equally along its length distributing the bending force. If you solder part of it, you make the soldered part rigid and the copper immediately below it unusually soft. Instead of a continuious bend, you get a sharp kink at one point just below the soldered portion. A perfect stress riser. Bend this a few times and the copper snaps inside the insulation.

Properly applied non-insulated crimp connectors are stronger that the terminal on the end of them. I tested some crimped on ring terminals with weights on the end. Non-insulated crimps failed at 95 N. I took pre-insulated crimps up to just over 160 N at which point the ring itself failed.

I garauntee NASA don't splice a high mobility piece of wire, they'd replace the whole piece... Which is what we've recommended the OP do. But if I was going to, I'd preferr a crimp in most circumstances.

If I had the rats-nest that the OP has to deal with and there was a good reason not to fit a replacement loom, I'd probably bundle the individual wires into sub-looms, shrink tube them. Say one for the clocks, one for the headlight and one for the flashers. Then fit some SP13 inline multiconnectors with solder pins on the ends which have proper strain relief glands. Like I did for the rear sub-loom on my Bullet build.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEW4t8sueI8_GttvEkAU1fA3DPDlqRDBa5fzGEClJBXgi2GWYpOLb_Vqo5T0GwC96d98KfcbR3OicWiVF1EojDVLPbAes_XMb4fyQVPEgxxmM8PG0Ytq2Q7XNFwcOBLvdqhntUK5i13Q2_3iqnTvJKZA=w1182-h886-no

If the wire isn't being subjected to bending forces, solder-splice away.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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