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Suzuki cougar 100cc front forks

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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 08:51 - 18 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah fuel glow is fine, also no change with choke on at high revs (giving more fuel) which makes me think it’s not burning the fuel, also it smokes a lot when it’s hesitating.
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 17:19 - 18 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The reeds are in the barrel, so couldn’t take them out without removing the barrel etc.

Did a compression test and it was around 100psi, I have attached a picture of the plug which would suggest it’s running rich, it is a dry black.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 18 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

100 psi is a bit low for a 2T.
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 17:48 - 18 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
100 psi is a bit low for a 2T.


Yeah I thought that myself, the bike has been stood for quite sometime, I have only riden it probably 10 mins max, I think I’ll give it a good 30 minute ride when it’s dry and see how it feels, maybe some sticky rings, if nothing changes I’ll strip the top end and rebuild it.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 18 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farmingstock wrote:

Yeah I thought that myself, the bike has been stood for quite sometime, I have only riden it probably 10 mins max, I think I’ll give it a good 30 minute ride when it’s dry and see how it feels, maybe some sticky rings, if nothing changes I’ll strip the top end and rebuild it.


Well, you've established it's not running lean. Maybe Italian tune up time. Give it a longer run, you may find it clears its throat and takes off like a scalded cat in a dense haze of blue smoke after a bit. It's barely had time to get up to temp. I've had strokers do that before if they've sat for a bit until they burn off all the old oil residue.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 19 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided to strip the top end after giving it a good 30 minutes of ragging, what a pain that was, the barrel won’t come off as it hits the frame, so engine out job, the bolts that hold the engine in won’t come out due to the foot pegs, which are part of the frame, the foot pegs won’t come off due to the rear brake, never worked on anything as awkward in my life!!

Anyway, the rings are free (will check gap in barrel), the bore is reasonable, but there is oil in the crank, so looking like the crank seal has gone maybe??
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:04 - 19 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could be a crank seal or it could be unburned fuel residue.

The skirt of that piston looks pretty scored up in your picture.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 19 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the crank seal is on the inside so ended up stripping the engine, will replace piston, rings, gaskets and crank seal if I can find them all, bearings seam fine.

I can’t find any videos etc, never stripped an engine this far and I’m struggling with how the gears are meant to go back together, also there is a claw and I’m not sure how that goes either.

All a learning curve and why I’m on here asking for advice, is there a way the gears should go back together and anyway to test them??

Obviously need to find parts first, which seams borderline impossible! An engine schematic would be amazing it’s a 100cc Suzuki
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 19 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go on cmsnl.com They have prarts fisches for almost every japanese motorbike.

Try AX100?
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-ax100-1996-t-general-export-e01p9_model13113/partslist/#.Y3kq8CXgrRY
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 19 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks I’ve ordered some parts from there, I’m struggling with these not sure how to check it’s together properly? How do I know it’s in neutral and all gears work before putting back together?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 19 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can't really tell until the selector mechanism is also on.

Rotate the final drive output shaft and see that everything that turns is turning freely and you can move the clusters along the shaft so the dogs fully engage. Make sure all the selector forks are sat in a groove

The biggest mistake you could make is one of the shafts or pins not being seated properly in its bearing/hole then tightening down the crankcase bolts. That would either bend the shaft or punch a hole in the case.

If you've got a cluster in backwards, it just wont work rather than damaging anything.

Next time take more photos during disassembly!

That said, it's easy done even with photos. Last gearbox I rebuilt I put the whole lot in backwards on the first attempt and had to take it all apart again. Shifty

EDIT: It's been ages since i split a vertical engine but effectively what happens is that selector drum (the round black thing at the top) is rotated by the gearshift. This moves the selector forks side to side in the grooves in the drum. Each fork is holding one of the gear clusters and moves them sideways along the shaft so different clutsters engage with one another in different gears.

Good video on the general principal. https://youtu.be/g8xnIFf4id4
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 20 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You can't really tell until the selector mechanism is also on.

Rotate the final drive output shaft and see that everything that turns is turning freely and you can move the clusters along the shaft so the dogs fully engage. Make sure all the selector forks are sat in a groove

The biggest mistake you could make is one of the shafts or pins not being seated properly in its bearing/hole then tightening down the crankcase bolts. That would either bend the shaft or punch a hole in the case.

If you've got a cluster in backwards, it just wont work rather than damaging anything.

Next time take more photos during disassembly!

That said, it's easy done even with photos. Last gearbox I rebuilt I put the whole lot in backwards on the first attempt and had to take it all apart again. Shifty

EDIT: It's been ages since i split a vertical engine but effectively what happens is that selector drum (the round black thing at the top) is rotated by the gearshift. This moves the selector forks side to side in the grooves in the drum. Each fork is holding one of the gear clusters and moves them sideways along the shaft so different clutsters engage with one another in different gears.

Good video on the general principal. https://youtu.be/g8xnIFf4id4


Thank you for your help, much appreciated, I have found a video of someone rebuilding the engine completely, still on the look out for a piston, all the ones I can find are all over size, but will keep looking.
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