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Front brakes: drop the hardline?

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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 24 Nov 2022    Post subject: Front brakes: drop the hardline? Reply with quote

I have some plans for my bike in the next year and given the existing rubber lines will be ~7yrs old they'll be on the replacement list.

I'm eyeing up the front brakes:

https://frentubo.it/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/yamaha_xsr_700_abs_frentubo_carbonio-5.jpg

Brake line comes down from the ABS unit and then there's flexi-hardline-flexi looping over the mudguard. Given I can make up my own braided lines I'm thinking of just one simple line running over Thinking
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 24 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

You wonder why they didn't do that in the first place, there seems no particular reason why it needs to be a hardline in that section. Maybe they found it was rubbing/bouncing against the mudguard?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 24 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe because whilst they were spending millions on developing the model they discovered that having a flexili caused problems?

There's a reason why they made it like that. 2 pipes are more expensive than 1 so it's clearly not cost.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 24 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pretty standard to do that even before ABS, one flexi line from the master cylinder down and a hard line across to the other calliper. I think it's a bit lighter and possibly cheaper than running two lines down from the MC.

It was also pretty common to shitcan the rigid line and run two seperate lines down from the MC when replacing the brake lines. Any time I've done it, it''s noticeably a bit of a fidget to get both lines fitted in and routed neatly down from the bars.

A hard brake line is better than a flexi one if it doesn't need to flex. If you're talking about looping a flexi line over the top of the mudguard to replace the rigid one, I'd just stick with the rigid one. If you're talking about running two lines down from the MC, one major advantage is they are easier to bleed. Two seperate lines was always known as "race" setup. I don't know why.

I know nothing about ABS so I don't understand half of the plumbing there. Or are they sensor wires?
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Pretty standard to do that even before ABS, one flexi line from the master cylinder down and a hard line across to the other calliper.

Yeah, but with this one, the line which loops over looks like part-flexi, part hard-line. With all the extra connectors and clips, you'd think it would be more complex, heavier and more expensive than sticking with just one or the other.

I always wondered why 2 lines is called a "race" setup. I can see it potentially having minor benefits for racing though. Besides the easy bleeding (which is worth it on it's own for me), it does make things easier for quickly working on the front end, you can leave the calipers dangling, and swap forks, mudguards, wheels etc. without dealing with a load of clips and things, and then zip tie them back on if needed. If the brake fluid in the lines absorbs some of the heat during braking, then in a race scenario could it mean that having 2 more or less equal and separate lines (and therefore volume of fluid) mean they heat up more evenly? Seriously marginal gains I imagine though.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 01:08 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Maybe because whilst they were spending millions on developing the model they discovered that having a flexili caused problems?

There's a reason why they made it like that. 2 pipes are more expensive than 1 so it's clearly not cost.


I have to agree, I can't recall ever owning a bike that has a hard line across the mudguard, so there will be a very good reason for it being there.

Best guess would be to optimise and equalise performance of the calipers when the ABS is operating - even a braided flexi line can deteriorate over time, which could introduce an unwanted variable.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:58 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:


I have to agree, I can't recall ever owning a bike that has a hard line across the mudguard, so there will be a very good reason for it being there.


Every bike I've owned that had twin discs had a single flex line and a ridgid one over the top of the mudguard.

Mrs stinkwheels CBR6 still does but when I come to change them, it will be getting twin lines.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:30 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The "race setup" arrangement is an interesting idea. Instead of stacking the banjos on the master one would stack them from the ABS unit which would obviously bear some examination as Mr. Stinkwheel suggests with regards to routing.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The FZ and FZR both had twin pipes.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 12:57 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is OP aware you can't bleed ABS brakes at home?
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A100man
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

I know nothing about ABS so I don't understand half of the plumbing there. Or are they sensor wires?


Indeed. Looks like a right bugger's muddle.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
It was also pretty common to shitcan the rigid line and run two seperate lines down from the MC when replacing the brake lines. Any time I've done it, it''s noticeably a bit of a fidget to get both lines fitted in and routed neatly down from the bars.


This. Run a couple of braided lines on a dual banjo bolt. I'll be doing this to my Viffer and unlinking the brake after Xmas.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
It was also pretty common to shitcan the rigid line and run two seperate lines down from the MC when replacing the brake lines. Any time I've done it, it''s noticeably a bit of a fidget to get both lines fitted in and routed neatly down from the bars.


This. Run a couple of braided lines on a dual banjo bolt. I'll be doing this to my Viffer and unlinking the brake after Xmas.


Exactly what I did on my GSR also when I replaced the stock rubber hoses.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:35 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

redeem ouzzer wrote:
Is OP aware you can't bleed ABS brakes at home?


You can on most bikes. As far as I know you only need the workshop box of tricks with Harley Davidsons and occasionally BMW's. Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki you are fine.

Zen Dog wrote:
I always wondered why 2 lines is called a "race" setup.


ACU (I think) bans the use of over the mudguard brake lines after someone lost a slider puck which got jammed between someone elses front tyre and mudguard. Ripped the mudguard off and the over mudguard brake line leaving them with no front brake.

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
This. Run a couple of braided lines on a dual banjo bolt. I'll be doing this to my Viffer and unlinking the brake after Xmas.


Potentially illegal but unlikely to be noticed.
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
This. Run a couple of braided lines on a dual banjo bolt. I'll be doing this to my Viffer and unlinking the brake after Xmas.


Running a couple of lines for the front brake shouldn't be a problem, but genuinely unlinking the brakes is much more involved than you might think. Think I mentioned it before but it's not just a case of making a few loops of brake line and removing things. You'll almost certainly need new master cylinders for a start. It can be done, but just have a good read on the VFR forums before you get started if you haven't done so already, just so you know what you're getting into. Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zen Dog wrote:


Running a couple of lines for the front brake shouldn't be a problem, but genuinely unlinking the brakes is much more involved than you might think. Think I mentioned it before but it's not just a case of making a few loops of brake line and removing things. You'll almost certainly need new master cylinders for a start. It can be done, but just have a good read on the VFR forums before you get started if you haven't done so already, just so you know what you're getting into. Thumbs Up


My mate did it on his blackbird, dead easy.

What he did was carefully drain the system, unbolt the callipers, linkage hoses and master cylinder. Then he threw them in a bucket in the back of the shed and bolted on a set of Brembo 4-pots.

Admittedly not the most cost-effective technique. Very Happy
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Robby
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure why you want to get rid of the hard line.

It's small, fits in place, doesn't flex, and means you only need to run a single flexi line down the fork leg.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:50 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm
I'm kinda on the "if it aint broke dont fix it" side of this
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 19:46 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
I'm not sure why you want to get rid of the hard line.


I think it's because if he's committed to replacing all the rubber/flexi pipe in the front brake, he'll need to make up 2 small sections to connect to the hard line. So he's considering making one line from flexi to replace the whole "over the mudguard" section as a simpler and probably neater looking alternative.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

He could also consider replacting the top banjo bolt for one with a hydraulic brake light switch in it too. It's what I do, had too many of those flimsy brakelight microswitches fail over the years.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zen Dog wrote:
Robby wrote:
I'm not sure why you want to get rid of the hard line.


I think it's because if he's committed to replacing all the rubber/flexi pipe in the front brake, he'll need to make up 2 small sections to connect to the hard line. So he's considering making one line from flexi to replace the whole "over the mudguard" section as a simpler and probably neater looking alternative.


Pretty much. I don't rate the OEM flexi-pipes on a bike in the same regard as say a car, the latter at least are never going to see any UV. That's still a thing? Or is it magical rubber these days.

In my experience making steel braided lines up it's less important to get the length dead-on to the millimetre the longer the line is. Eyeing the existing lines on the front they'd probably need to be spot on to just drop in and then I may as well stick to OEM stuff. I'm very much into incremental improvements where practicable so I shall give the "race setup" serious consideration.

On the rear there's two hard lines running in parallel to the ABS unit with block junctions to four flexi-pipes... for the single brake caliper Rolling Eyes Whereas it could be simplified to two lines between Master, ABS and Brake, less points of failure Smile
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 25 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
He could also consider replacting the top banjo bolt for one with a hydraulic brake light switch in it too. It's what I do, had too many of those flimsy brakelight microswitches fail over the years.


Interesting... in-line pressure switches are quite common (at least on the older bikes I've worked on) but how fare they up against ABS? I could see putting one on the output side would net you a rear disco light. Cars often flash their hazards under hard braking Thinking
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:15 - 26 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:


Interesting... in-line pressure switches are quite common (at least on the older bikes I've worked on) but how fare they up against ABS? I could see putting one on the output side would net you a rear disco light. Cars often flash their hazards under hard braking Thinking


Aye, it would probably need to go on the master cylinder itself. Which is presumably where the brake light switch and it's wiring is anyway. I presume it doesn't let pressure off the MC when the ABS kicks in, I thought that happens downstream? Maybe it has one anyway?
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 08 Dec 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I rebuilt my 3XW-FJ1200 ABS I had no intention of refitting the ABS clutter.I fitted a two line kit supplied by HEL from the front master cylinder directly to the calipers and the same one line for the rear.The gubbins that went with the original setup was complicated and not that effective from new,from what I have read on various FJ forums.

I have driven many cars that have ABS as standard and not once did I ever feel it kick in,despite braking hard in certain circumstances.Friends who have ABS on their bikes as standard have mentioned that they have never experienced it ever...which is not to say that it would not be useful,just that it can be relied on too much to get one out of certain difficulties.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 08 Dec 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't like ABS in cars, never tried it on a bike but I'd imagine it's similar. It's to let you steer with less risk of skidding while braking hard.

What I find is there are situations where I WANT to lock the wheel and the ABS kicks in causing the vehicle to just run-on when I feel it should have stopped. Also all my years of riding motorbikes have taught me to brake only in a straight line for maximum effect but come off the brake for steering. Tyres give maximum grip in any one axis, ask them to grip in two axes at once and you're in trouble.

One situation where it's a pain is on narrow roads where you put the nearside wheels onto the mud/grass/gravel at the side of the road. I usually lock those and they drag through the loose shit while I'm looking for max braking on the offside wheels. With ABS, there's no feel at all because the ABS kicks in super early on the tyres on the loose stuff.

The other is snow. Sometimes the only way to stop is to plough snow up ahead of the wheels and hope you wear through it onto the road surface. Or you need to lock the wheel to instagate a slide when negotiating junctions with piled snow on them. First time I used an ABS equipped vehicle on snow, it scared the shit out of me because the brakes did nothing at all. Still does.

I also like to squeal the tyres when idiot pedestrians walk out into the road without looking.

Don't get me started on traction control. You could stick my last van (RWD Vito) on a steep slope of wet tarmac 'till you turned the TC off.
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