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Honda HISS programming

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Noddy2
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Joined: 08 Jan 2023
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 08 Jan 2023    Post subject: Honda HISS programming Reply with quote


Hi All

 

I've just bought a VFR1200F DCT and it only came with one key.  I'm in the UK so bike has HISS installed.  I've just tried to program another key following this video:
https://youtu.be/YXHNGZXJVK8

 

When I connect the crank position sensor to the 12V supply and turn on the ignition, the fuel pump is not supposed to prime and the HISS light should stay ON.  When I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump does not prime but the HISS light stays OFF.  Under normal operation, the HISS light comes on for 2 seconds and goes off when I turn on the ignition.

 

So my bike is doing something that all the other HISS enabled bikes don't.  Could it have been reflashed?

 

Any ideas or suggestions as to how I can get another key programmed would be great.

 

Thanks

 

John

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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 08 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Video is in foreign so absolutely no idea what he is saying. I have registered HISS keys on different models of Honda but not your model.

So just to check you are following this procedcure?

1) Connect your special tool to the crank position sensor wiring connector.

2) Connect the tool to the battery terminals.

3) Turn the ignition ON with the original key, keeping the new key well away from the bike. HISS light should come on and stay on.

4) Disconnect special tool from battery positive for 5 seconds then reconnect. HISS light should come on for 2 seconds then start repeatedly flashing 4 times. All previously registered keys are now wiped other than the one that's in it. Bike is in registration mode.

5) Turn off ignition. Remove original key and move it away from the bike.

6) Insert new key, turn on. HISS light should come on for 4 seconds then start repeatedly flashing 4 times. Key is now registered. Repeat with any additional keys.

7) Ignition off, remove tool, reconnect connector and test new key works.

I didn't see what he was doing when making his tool. Did he fit a resistor in the potitive lead? When I have done this on other models, it required a 100R resistor in the positive lead.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 08 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why pick a Russian language vid?
This one's in English with the guy doing it on a VFR800

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db0ee6u7CjQ

Note he connects the ghetto lead with inline 100R resistor to the connector going to the ECU NOT the CPS

Maybe you do have a 1200 VFR, but as Honda uses basically
the same PGM-FI for nearly all its PGM-FI models which can all be
quizzed the same way,
why would they create a unique HISS system for one model?

Check your new key has a blank ID46 IC in it too
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 07:52 - 09 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
This one's in English with the guy doing it on a VFR800
Note he connects the ghetto lead with inline 100R resistor to the connector going to the ECU NOT the CPS

This vid works. Did my Fireblade (Pretty sure Honda uses the same HISS setup for most thing) following this. Epoxied the chips to the two cut, but not chipped, keys that came with her.

As said, it's the ECU Diagnostic connector, not anything else. Jumping it without a resistor will give you any error codes.
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'98 VFR800 (touring) - '12 VFR800 Crosrunner (Commuting) - '01 KDX220 (Big Green Antisocial Machine)
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:51 - 09 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont think its using the bikes PGM-FI ECU diagnostic connector
(for OBD stuff ) that would use at least 3 pins.
I reckon the ghetto lead just holds the CPS line high
at power on which triggers the HISS key process.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 09 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I dont think its using the bikes PGM-FI ECU diagnostic connector
(for OBD stuff ) that would use at least 3 pins.
I reckon the ghetto lead just holds the CPS line high
at power on which triggers the HISS key process.


It's been a few months, but I'm fairly certain that the diagnostic port is two pins. Straight short is code reading, inline resistor is HISS programming. By all accounts the late Viffers are the same.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 18:32 - 09 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThatDippyTwat wrote:
WD Forte wrote:
I dont think its using the bikes PGM-FI ECU diagnostic connector
(for OBD stuff ) that would use at least 3 pins.
I reckon the ghetto lead just holds the CPS line high
at power on which triggers the HISS key process.


It's been a few months, but I'm fairly certain that the diagnostic port is two pins. Straight short is code reading, inline resistor is HISS programming. By all accounts the late Viffers are the same.


I agree it is two pins, but not the same two pins.
Juts had a shufty at a 5th gen service manual.

The diagnostic connector uses green and brown cables
Green ground, brown to ECU.
the CPS or PCI or Ignition Pulse Generator uses yellow and yellow white cables and the yellow one when pulled high, initiates the HISS/key process.

I may be talking bollocks of course but Honda are usually pretty consistent with this stuff
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Noddy2
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Joined: 08 Jan 2023
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 09 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the responses.

The Russian video can be auto translated - turn on the captions then select English. The 12V goes to the YELLOW wire and the ground to YELLOW/WHITE. You can see that when he connects the lead to the 12V and turns of the ignition, the HISS light stays ON just like in the description that stinkwheel provided. My HISS light stays OFF. However the fuel pump does not prime and the check engine lights up indicating that the ECU knows somethings not right. If I plug the crank sensor back in, the HISS light stays on for two seconds and then goes off when I turn the ignition on and the fuel pump primes.

Almost all Hondas HISS keys from 2008 to about 2012 are programmed and behave in the same way.

I don't know why my bike is different - it's a 2010 and the Russian has a 2012 so it's not because it's a later version. It's nothing to do with new keys as I haven't got as far as trying to program a new one. I suspect that it is because it has a had a reflash but I don't know anything about reflashes and whether they affect things like the HISS programming.

I'm asking if anyone else has seen this behaviour. I can go to a Honda dealer and ask for the ECU to be put back to stock but who knows what problems that might open up. My other option is to take it to an automotive locksmith and see if I can get the key copied.

Thanks

John
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 09 Jan 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noddy2 wrote:
Thanks for all the responses.

The Russian video can be auto translated - turn on the captions then select English.


I still didn't see him fit an 100R resistor in the positive wire there. Have you fitted one?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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