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strategies to break in 125 engine quickly

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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 18 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
jeffyjeff wrote:

When you baby a new engine, the cylinder crosshatch wears down before the rings achieve a good seal.


Thats absolute bollocks. The rings are designed to wear before the barrel.
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Last edited by Nobby the Bastard on 20:49 - 18 Apr 2023; edited 2 times in total
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Islander
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 Aug 2012
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 18 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://jecparts.com/what-is-cylinder-honing-why-do-you-need-it/
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 20:36 - 18 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
That doesn't explain why/how the honing does it.

This does.

https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/answering-five-honing-faqs
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 18 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
You have to wonder why generator engines don't just blow up then. Those come out of the box, get filled up then immediatelty sit at full-chat for hours at a time. Never heard of anyone "running in" a genny and it'll be pretty much the same engine as a scooter.


The killer for most machinery is intermittent and variations in load.
We run 1400hp diesels to 50,000 hours before overhaul.

For plant equipment, 2000 hrs per year is a good indication service calculations for equipment that works about 8 hrs 5 days per week. Cars suffer the same load fluctuations.

Trucks run for millions of miles.
Motorways mean loads are almost constant.

Slowing pistons and speeding them up creates more stress.

So constant load with gradual changes and enough load to prevent over cooling all helps longevity.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 18 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
At the end of the day, the rings are designed to wear before the honing marks in the barrel.

Lose the oil, the honing marks will be worn out. Once they are gone the barrel and rings are shagged.

Being gentle on running in will not wear the honing marks before you fuck the rings, even if thats possible.
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jeffyjeff
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Joined: 02 May 2020
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PostPosted: 02:59 - 20 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
What you are really trying to achieve is wearing in the rings so they match the barrel without taking out all the honing marks in the barrel because they retain the oil.

We agree on that. Wink
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 09:46 - 20 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
jeffyjeff wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
What you are really trying to achieve is wearing in the rings so they match the barrel without taking out all the honing marks in the barrel because they retain the oil.

We agree on that. Wink


No.

I believe bla bla bla......

Razz
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A100man
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Joined: 19 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 20 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yeah, yeah all well and good..

.. but what oil should I use..?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 20 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
A100man wrote:
Yeah, yeah all well and good..

.. but what oil should I use..?


I would suggest Used Chain Oil.

(That was previously used in an engine.)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 20 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
A100man wrote:
Yeah, yeah all well and good..

.. but what oil should I use..?


Mineral oil for the first 100 miles then dump it and use semi synthetic/synthetic.
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stevo123
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 10 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 21 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have used hard and gentle break ins. The hard maybe made the engine more lively (marginally). The soft (recommended by manufacturer) achieved a smoother and quieter engine. Each to their own, just my experience
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 21 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevo123 wrote:
I have used hard and gentle break ins. The hard maybe made the engine more lively (marginally). The soft (recommended by manufacturer) achieved a smoother and quieter engine. Each to their own, just my experience


Evidence based?

If you want something hard enough, you will get the results you are looking for.

Razz
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DJP
Crazy Courier



Joined: 11 Dec 2011
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 21 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Just ride the bloody thing normally. Don't baby it but don't thrash it. Just forget that it's a new engine.

I've had half a dozen new bikes and that's all I've ever done and I've never had an engine problem.
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 22 Apr 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
DJP wrote:
Just ride the bloody thing normally. Don't baby it but don't thrash it. Just forget that it's a new engine.


This.

Also, it's a scooter. It's difficult to do much about engine speed, the CVT gearbox decides that for you.

Worst case here is that the top end wears out in 50k miles. This scooter is unlikely to do more than 20k miles before rusting away.
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1198
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 10 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ride it normally. Don’t keep it pinned, don’t let it big down (difficult with an auto scoot anyhow), just use it. Change the oil after 500-1000 miles if you’re bothered. Live your life.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 10 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Robby wrote:


Worst case here is that the top end wears out in 50k miles. This scooter is unlikely to do more than 20k miles before rusting away.


Or being stolen.
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c_dug
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 13 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
If slow running in was entirely ineffective and unnecessary then sure at least one manufacturer would have updated their recommendations by now?

I mean we all view it as a pain in the arse, so the requirement not to do a limp run-in would be a decent edge against the competition, a potential selling point.

I figure there must be a reason they all say pretty much the same thing...
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Joined: 12 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 10:06 - 14 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
c_dug wrote:
If slow running in was entirely ineffective and unnecessary then sure at least one manufacturer would have updated their recommendations by now?

I mean we all view it as a pain in the arse, so the requirement not to do a limp run-in would be a decent edge against the competition, a potential selling point.

I figure there must be a reason they all say pretty much the same thing...


I honestly don't understand all this fannying about trying to break in an engine "the right way".

When you shag fuck out your bird you don't think "oh I'm gonna be gentle and hold back a bit so she's not all clapped out for the next guy" so why the fuck do you care about your shite 125cc.

They're expected to be wrung the fuck out.
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DaddyStu
Spanner Monkey



Joined: 19 Jan 2023
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 14 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
c_dug wrote:


I figure there must be a reason they all say pretty much the same thing...


To give them some come back if their shiny new machine blows up and kills somebody? Or is that too cynical?
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grr666
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PostPosted: 10:27 - 14 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:

When you shag fuck out your bird you don't think "oh I'm gonna be gentle and hold back a bit so she's not all clapped out for the next guy"


https://media.tenor.com/bplg51v3mtsAAAAC/smooth-talker-that-one-ayanna-bell.gif

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A100man
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Joined: 19 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 10:33 - 14 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:

I honestly don't understand all this fannying about trying to break in an engine "the right way".

When you shag fuck out your bird you don't think "oh I'm gonna be gentle and hold back a bit so she's not all clapped out for the next guy"


Spoken like a true Glaswegian (or thereabouts)
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