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Clutch creep

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PotatoHead202...
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 15:35 - 10 May 2023    Post subject: Clutch creep Reply with quote

Right, I've finally got my CZ running and moving under it's own smoke. I adjusted the clutch so that at the lever end there was very little play (3 or 4mm) and seemingly correctly at the other end. Initially, I can start fine, select first, ride off and just about get into second (driveway is short and no MOT etc at the moment). When I turn around and try again I'm getting clutch creep - i.e. lever is fully pulled in but the bike is moving forward slightly. What also happens is that the lever is now very loose.

I've changed clutches before on bigger bikes but they were either hydraulic or needed no adjustment as the cable was attached to the casing. I know the plates went back in the same order and everything was assmebled correctly. Plates had plenty of meat left and the right gearbox oil was used.

Is this just a case of me fucking up the adjustment? I can't quite figure out how to fix it.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 15:37 - 10 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the cable stretching? That sort of thing usually preceeds the cable breaking.
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 10 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might be just some initial settling of the parts
have to tried resetting the cable adjusters and trying again?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:35 - 10 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, there's rather more to it that a Japanese bike clutch. As you know, you have a semi-automatic clutch release which from your picture looks pretty close to properly set-up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW6kqUILsZX4_n4Dul6JXnMYYoPpLl-apWRR9rjkfZzEEdvRecAwUGNnl9v_XwX8nsKw0TfNKruRKmSZL-UwjddUKXP2EUZ1fOkt_qQ3913_upqgJQeU8snNUdWdWWoK-9AxUGA9F1G3qsiKrdO_u8f=w1060-h678-s-no

You need to set the gear lever actuated portion of it first so the end of the mechanism is evenly in the notch on the end of the gear change shaft and starts moving a similar amount if the gear shift is moved up and down and has enough tension on the pushrod to fully disengage the clutch at the maximum travel of the gearshift.

Once you have that set, you then set the tension in the cable so it has the requisite level of slack. This can be a fiddle because it uses a solderless nipple at the engine end. They are prone to slipping and if it was pinched in a certain place for a long time, it has a tendancy to slip back there. They are also prone to breaking/fraying at that nipple.

So if that was all set up properly, the first thing I'd check is if it's crabbing when you use the clutch via the gear lever as well as when you use the hand lever by keeping your foot fully up or down on the gearshift after selecting a gear. This should do the same job as holding the clutch in.

If it's not crabbing when using the foot clutch, the problem is clutch cable tension usually due to slipping or fraying at the bottom nipple.

If it is crabbing when using the foot clutch, the problem is either adjustment at the outer clutch mechanism or expansion of the clutch stack or just plain ordinary bedding-in. If the plates were dry for a long period, they could well have expanded once properly soaked in oil again. In any case, I'd probably just readjust the mechanism before diving in further.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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PotatoHead202...
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 11:37 - 12 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Ok, there's rather more to it that a Japanese bike clutch. As you know, you have a semi-automatic clutch release which from your picture looks pretty close to properly set-up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AJFCJaW6kqUILsZX4_n4Dul6JXnMYYoPpLl-apWRR9rjkfZzEEdvRecAwUGNnl9v_XwX8nsKw0TfNKruRKmSZL-UwjddUKXP2EUZ1fOkt_qQ3913_upqgJQeU8snNUdWdWWoK-9AxUGA9F1G3qsiKrdO_u8f=w1060-h678-s-no

You need to set the gear lever actuated portion of it first so the end of the mechanism is evenly in the notch on the end of the gear change shaft and starts moving a similar amount if the gear shift is moved up and down and has enough tension on the pushrod to fully disengage the clutch at the maximum travel of the gearshift.

Once you have that set, you then set the tension in the cable so it has the requisite level of slack. This can be a fiddle because it uses a solderless nipple at the engine end. They are prone to slipping and if it was pinched in a certain place for a long time, it has a tendancy to slip back there. They are also prone to breaking/fraying at that nipple.

So if that was all set up properly, the first thing I'd check is if it's crabbing when you use the clutch via the gear lever as well as when you use the hand lever by keeping your foot fully up or down on the gearshift after selecting a gear. This should do the same job as holding the clutch in.

If it's not crabbing when using the foot clutch, the problem is clutch cable tension usually due to slipping or fraying at the bottom nipple.

If it is crabbing when using the foot clutch, the problem is either adjustment at the outer clutch mechanism or expansion of the clutch stack or just plain ordinary bedding-in. If the plates were dry for a long period, they could well have expanded once properly soaked in oil again. In any case, I'd probably just readjust the mechanism before diving in further.


Thank you.

Yes, that makes sense now. So effectively (without the cable being used) when the gear lever is pressed fully down it will engage 1st gear but fully disengage the clutch? When the lever is returned to it's central position the clutch will be engaged?

THEN adjust the clutch cable? Yes, it seems like it's slipping in it's socket. Just a bloody screw to hold it in place.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 14 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

PotatoHead2020 wrote:


Thank you.

Yes, that makes sense now. So effectively (without the cable being used) when the gear lever is pressed fully down it will engage 1st gear but fully disengage the clutch? When the lever is returned to it's central position the clutch will be engaged?

Yes, exactly that.

Quote:
Yes, it seems like it's slipping in it's socket. Just a bloody screw to hold it in place.


It's called a solderless nipple. You could try replacing it with a newer/better one, they are cheap.

Another option is to use a soldered nipple but due to the design, you'd have to make the cable "in situ" on the bike using the type of barrel nipple that accepts a pear nipple. You might also need a inline adjuster in the outer to give you some adjustment.

Effectively, you'd need to mark on your existing cable where the solderless nipple would go for it to be correctly adjusted then remove the cable and measure the free length of cable beyond the outer with the top nipple pulled up tight against the outer.

Next step would be to make up an outer the same length as your existing one but with an inline adjuster somewhere conveniant and screwed almost all the way in. Solder on the top nipple and feed the cable through. Don't hook up the top end to the clutch lever yet.

Get a barrel nipple that accepts a pear nipple (they are called a "loose barrel nipple". Put this in the clutch actuator where your solderless one is now and feed the wire through it. Cut the inner cable to the length you measured before and solder a pear nipple on the end. THEN connect up the clutch lever end.

You can get all the cable making stuff you need at https://www.carrotcycles.co.uk WAY cheaper than venhill. Use the thickest cable you can fit in the nipple.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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PotatoHead202...
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Joined: 10 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 15:11 - 16 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, appreciate it.

I think I've managed to sort it at the moment as it seems to be changing without issue. Shall look into the other bits as well though.
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Honda VFR1200F, Honda CBF500 ABS, CZ125 now CZ175
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 16 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

The clutch cable on my Jawa used to break regularly but it's not so much of a pest because of the gear lever clutch mechanism. With practice, you can ride it without touching the clutch lever at all leaving your left hand free to scratch your arse with.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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View user's profile Send private message You must be logged in to rate posts
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