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Jump starting motorbike

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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 10:05 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Jump starting motorbike Reply with quote

My ER6F hasn't been used in a couple months and the battery is dead, so I went to open the cunt up and trickle charge the battery back into life but as life likes to drop kick me from time to time the seat lock was jammed.

Tried to open it and broke off the spare key in the lock. So now I am going to cut in through the seat from the top with manually toggle the latch to get the seat off (bin the fucked seat and put on the old one that I replaced with it) but then I seen that you can't buy a replacement lock just for the seat (and run with two keys) so fuck me more I need to get a full kit including an ignition I'm not going to change.

Anyway, so when I break the seat off this cunt is it possible to jump start the thing using either a car 12V battery (car running or not) or my 125cc battery (12V but it's tiny):

This is the battery in my 125cc:

https://bs-battery.com/product/bt12-10z-sla/

This is the battery in the diesel car I could use:

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/ybx5019.html

or should I just pull the battery out of it and put it on a trickle charger?
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

12v is 12v. Stick the jump leads on and press the tit. I know people will come out with some convoluted explaination of why you shouldn't but I've jumped a motorike from a bank of 4 leisure batteries on my boat and nothing went bang. Laughing
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the broken-off bit of key out of the lock. Lubricate the lock. Get a new spare key cut. Open the lock.

Then fit some optimate fly leads to the battery so you can charge it without removing the seat or taking out the battery.

You can jump it from any 12v battery, but if the battery is flat you then need to ride it for about 5 hours to charge it back up. So you need to get it on a charger for about 10 hours really.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 10:45 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Get the broken-off bit of key out of the lock. Lubricate the lock. Get a new spare key cut. Open the lock.

Then fit some optimate fly leads to the battery so you can charge it without removing the seat or taking out the battery.

You can jump it from any 12v battery, but if the battery is flat you then need to ride it for about 5 hours to charge it back up. So you need to get it on a charger for about 10 hours really.


I lubed the lock for three days using oil and WD40 sprayed into the lock itself (used a flattened nozzle), it was still seized.

Going to just break it off, jump it and let it run for a bit and then stick the charger on it over night.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

You appear to have a lock, cable and latch forming the whole mechanism. So the lock itself may be fine, it could be seized elsewhere. Get some penetrating oil into the whole assembly.

If you're careful you may be able to detach or cut the cable and pull on in with a pair of pliers to release the seat.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
You appear to have a lock, cable and latch forming the whole mechanism. So the lock itself may be fine, it could be seized elsewhere. Get some penetrating oil into the whole assembly.

If you're careful you may be able to detach or cut the cable and pull on in with a pair of pliers to release the seat.


I considered that, I have no way of getting the oil to those parts while the seat is on the bike though. I also tried making a slimjim to fit in the gap between the fairing and the seat but the fairing has a lip that goes up and into a recess in the seat moulding so I can't even slip one in. There's no access in through the back taking the tail tidy off either.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've jump started bikes off cars and vans many's a time
just observe correct polarity and them big jump lead croc clips
don't get shorted on bike frame parts.
If the bike battery is dead flat I'll sometimes connect it up
start the car and let it idle for few minutes before trying to start it

Why? cos engine stopped = car battery at say 12.5V-ish

connect to flat battery this 12.5V goes lower as batteries try to equalise

engine running at 14V = moar eleckrikule power midgies get stuffed in bike battery
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grr666
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your battery may be beyond charging. Due to the somewhat rare usage of my departed MT09 it had three batteries
over the 6 years and 3000 miles I had it for. The charger wouldn't recognise that there was even a battery attached,
even piggybacking it off another functional battery to get some charge into them I had no joy I've been a bit more
careful to top up the battery on my MT10 over the winter.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 15:04 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't run the car/van/large vehicle when jumping the bike off of it, as you may fry the bike battery. It's perfectly OK to jump off of a larger 12V battery though, that's what a jump start pack is.
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grr666
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave001 wrote:

get a optimate and leave it plugged in that. every time i put mine away its plugged in


No power in my shed yet.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd try it hooked to car without it running first but can't see any real problem.
I suppose there's a chance that running it with essentially non-functioning battery will fry something else in the charging system.
If you've established it is going to need a new battery as it won't charge why not just fit one anyway and avoid any firey inferno or whatever else might happen.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you hook it up to a car battery, it'll crank it over like the wind.

Don't run the car engine with it connected to the bike because there's a chance the bikes reg/rec might try to regulate the car alternator output (depending on if it's set higher than the bike). The alternator will then just keep upping the output until it either hits its own upper limit or the bikes reg/rec craps out.

If you can hook the seat cable outer somehow and yank on it, the seat should release.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 23 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
If you hook it up to a car battery, it'll crank it over like the wind.

Don't run the car engine with it connected to the bike because there's a chance the bikes reg/rec might try to regulate the car alternator output (depending on if it's set higher than the bike). The alternator will then just keep upping the output until it either hits its own upper limit or the bikes reg/rec craps out.



I think that your typical modern regulator is before the bridge rectifier so it's not going to be affected by an excess of DC voltage.
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