Clutch not engaging

[Pea]

Hi All.

Looking to get a Motorhispania Furia 50 (AM6 Engine) back on the road after having been left for quite a few years…

After giving the carb a good clean out and fresh fuel it is now starting up and idling reasonably well - fuel and air mix needs a little adjustment.

However, it seems that the prolonged abandonment has resulted in the clutch lever appearing to have no effect engaging the clutch - I can see that it’s pulling the clutch arm but when I drop it into gear it stalls as if I’m not even pulling the clutch in. Can anyone shed any light on where to start to see what’s gone wrong ?

With the bike off and in gear, again pulling the clutch lever does nothing but I guess it should move freely and disengage the gear ?

Any help greatly appreciated, would be good to get it back running.

Thanks.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Plates are siezed together. Disasemble the clutch and re-assemble. you may need to buy new clutch plates if they disintegrate.

You could try putting it in gear, pull the clutch in and vigorously pushing the bike forward and back to try and free them but it's unlikely to work.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

As above, stuck clutch plates.

They sometimes free off if you ride them a bit too. You'd need to paddle it along in neutral to get it rolling then select first and do clutchless changes. If they don't free off, you'd need to stall it when you stop or slip it into neutral just before you stop.

As said, if that fails, you just need to strip the clutch. Also as said, sometimes the friction plates can come apart when they free off, up to you if you want to risk it. It's a lot less risky in a 2-stroke because it just makes a mess of the gearbox oil where a 4-stroke would risk it carrying clutch plate material into the engine oilways.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Pea]

Thanks both for the replies ! The more I was looking into the issue I did think it may be stuck clutch plates. I’ll have a go unfreeing by pushing or trying to give it a ride.

If not will strip it down, could probably do with flushing the oil anyways.

Thanks for the help !

[MCN]

Auld oil can absorb tons of moisture from combustion or the atmosphere. One reason it is replaced at service.
When we stack equipment for long time even 6months.
We drop the oil change the filters and run up to oil pressure is reached. Then shut it down plug every orifice and store it.

We should add VCI (volatile corrosion inhibitor) to the oil we use, but it is very expensive and not simple to find. And greenies don't like it.
We don't much bother.

If picky. Dessicated bags are popped into the crankcase and valve covers. Suspended by non corroding wire.
Then labels need to attached so the next silly fuss who start it know what to expect.

After a long store we change the oil, change the filters before start. The oil still absorbs moisture when new too.

Atmospheric moisture is the main issue.


So as said up there.
Strip the clutch, replace as required.
____________________
Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[blurredman]

Just put it in 1st/2nd whilst pushing along it and jump on (or just use a hill). Would probably free off if you just brake almost to a stall (but not quite (with the clutch lever in) several times. Done it successfully myself. Other than opening the thing up which may not be necessary. It's not as harsh on things as revving it and dropping the clutch against a wall either.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k. , 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k

[Pea]

Thanks All ! Will try and free it off but no harm in stripping and replacing the plates and oil - its more than likely way over due anyways !

Would Motul 5000 4T 10W-40, 4-Stroke Motor Oil be fine to replace the oil with ?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motul-104054-Oil/dp/B00G5GKR2Y/ref=sr_1_1?crid=24M2ES28RNB26&keywords=104054&qid=1708089180&sprefix=104054%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-1&th=1

Looking to buy online so I dont have to hunt around the shops (unless anyone knows anything else best?)

Cheers.

[MCN]

[stinkwheel]

It's a 2-stroke so you want gearbox oil rather than engine oil. On account of it only going into a gearbox.

The manufacturer recommends Motoul Transoil 10w-30. Wear gloves, transmission oil is nippy on your skin.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motul-Transoil-Transmission-2-stroke-Gearbox/dp/B072MP1S11
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]