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malb
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 21 Feb 2006    Post subject: Bike respray Reply with quote

Can anyone give me a rough idea how much it would cost to have a full respray done on a bike?

Or would it be easier/cheaper to do it myself?

Cheers
malb
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Jammy-R6
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PostPosted: 23:26 - 21 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Place near me does it for £200 for one colour. Cheaper to do yourself of course, if you have the kit. Have to know what your doing though and have a bit of experience to get a good finish. Where do you live could give you a hand.
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malb
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 21 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I live in Stoke-On-Trent.

How much would one of the kits set me back?
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Jammy-R6
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PostPosted: 00:02 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gun - £35ish, compressor £100. Then big tub of thinners - £10, half a litre of paint £7ish, laquer £8, primer £8. Enough to do loads, and youll have all the kit to do anything else with it!! Well worth having I've done loads.
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Richard1987
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

loads of preperation tho, sanding, flatting etc. you would need to be taught on how to do the job and perfect it Wink
good skill to have tho
i dont think its worth buying all the gear without actually knowing how to use it.

but canned aerosols give a good finnish now? cutting out the price of the compressor and gun. might be a better option
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Jammy-R6
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PostPosted: 00:35 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Richard1987 wrote:
loads of preperation tho, sanding, flatting etc. you would need to be taught on how to do the job and perfect it Wink
good skill to have tho
i dont think its worth buying all the gear without actually knowing how to use it.

but canned aerosols give a good finnish now? cutting out the price of the compressor and gun. might be a better option


Or a crap option! Your talking serious dough to use rattle cans for a whole bike and youd be left with a ok finish rather than an excellent finish. I would buy the gear, you can use the compressor for loads of other things anyway, tyre pressures etc. and once you have read the proper ways of doing it and practised a bit you'll be well away.
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Richard1987
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PostPosted: 00:47 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive done various car body repairs before, in the workshop i use. we do have the equipment to do jobs, it is great in the long run i totally agree, never doubted that. but for someone who's just starting out. i think the cans would be a better option. i would be gutted if i paid hard earned cash on all the gear only to find that you just suck at spraying.
If you try the cans and find that you can spray well, spend your money gear and earn some dosh?
if you dont feel comfortable spraying, its only a few cans? accept the finished product or get someone else to do it for ya Cool
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 01:38 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jammy-R6 wrote:
Gun - £35ish, compressor £100. Then big tub of thinners - £10, half a litre of paint £7ish, laquer £8, primer £8. Enough to do loads, and youll have all the kit to do anything else with it!! Well worth having I've done loads.

Do NOT tell people to buy the correct gear & then tell em to use laquer based paint FFS.
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JMH
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PostPosted: 07:45 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no reason you can't use spray cans. I've painted 2 bikes that way, and the one bike won first prize in a bike show! Lacquer spray paints dry very quickly (so they're better to use if you have to do your painting outside), but they lay on very thin, and require multiple coats, followed by wet sanding, then more color coats, more wet sanding, yada yada yada. The final outcome can be very nice if you're willing to take the time to spray the paint right, and follow with lots of wet sanding and final clear coats.

Enamels spray on shiny, but they take longer to dry, and have a tendency to create "orange peel".

The most recent bike I completed was painted with primarily Hammertone paint (black). The top of the gas tank was where I splurged, spraying it with that fancy color-shifting paint, adding artwork, then clear coating the top of the tank with clear urethane paint. The Hammered paint was not top-coated, since it has a higher risk of getting chipped (and will be easier totouch up because of the rougher finish of the paint).

Hope this may be of some assistance!

--JMH
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www.125power.com
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PostPosted: 14:30 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you take your time and read up on it aerosol's can give a really good finish......lots of prep work though, aerosol paint is thinner than normal paint so any dips, bumps, even dust will show all the way through to the final coat.......

I did this with aerosol's i bought 2 tins primer, 4 tins colour, 2 tins laquer and one tin of white paint and one tin of white wheel paint.
Plus sanding paper etc came to about £80-£100



https://www.bikepics.com/members/gavincarter2004/03yq100/ Paint wont be to everyone's taste but it is the finish i am showing you.......
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Jammy-R6
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PostPosted: 15:44 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:
Jammy-R6 wrote:
Gun - £35ish, compressor £100. Then big tub of thinners - £10, half a litre of paint £7ish, laquer £8, primer £8. Enough to do loads, and youll have all the kit to do anything else with it!! Well worth having I've done loads.

Do NOT tell people to buy the correct gear & then tell em to use laquer based paint FFS.


Whats wrong with celly? Think theres legislation in the UK to stop you buying 2 pack unless you have extraction systems. Nasty stuff anyway I've got good finishes with celly.
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jammy-R6 wrote:
Whats wrong with celly? Think theres legislation in the UK to stop you buying 2 pack unless you have extraction systems. Nasty stuff anyway I've got good finishes with celly.

It's 10x the work, starts to fall apart within a few months, is as brittle as glass so chips easily, never kicks off so it's ALWAYS soluble, & needs redoing about every 6 months. Rolling Eyes
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Misc
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PostPosted: 16:13 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems like you also need a clean place with no dust at all otherwise the paint starts to crinkle.
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The Tot
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 22 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your using spray cans, prime the areas properly and work the laquer off with 800 grit wet and dry. I'd say take the best part of a day to prepare the surfaces because otherwise you'd end up with a paint job like mine! Rolling Eyes.

I suggest not using enamel based paints as it takes forever to dry and because they're much thicker in consistency. It pissed down when i was doing my painting in the shed and consequently it caused the paint to to sponge up.

Laquer based paints from halfords are good, but thin multiple layers is how you're supposed to do it. Take time with the sanding.

It should be wise to say TAKE YOUR FAIRINGS OFF when you paint, in my case, this wasn't possible, so i ended up lines of dripping paint everywhere despite very well placed masking. Also, with masking tape, it tends to peel off the layer of paint underneath, so be careful. A hot cup of water and stanley knife can be used to score along the masking tape, using the hot water to remove the stickiness of the tape.

But if you can get access to a compressor and spray gun, by all means, use that.
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malb
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PostPosted: 01:04 - 23 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow ok cheers fellas, I think I might give it a go.


Its only really the wheels that I don't really get on with. But I have a feeling that they would be particularly tricky to do i.e. pulling them off the bike, taking the calipers and tyres off
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 23 Feb 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Titz wrote:
Also, with masking tape, it tends to peel off the layer of paint underneath, so be careful.

Thats not the fault of the tape, thats your fault for buying the cheap crap. Use 3M 233+ tape, it's bright green. You can use the cheap crap for taping paper to paper, but use the good shit where the tape is in contact with the paint.

There's also the distinct possibility the paint the tape peeled up was crap to start with, but even if it was, ALWAYS use 233+ tape by 3M. It will have the (red) 233+ logo inside the roll.

Titz wrote:
I suggest not using enamel based paints as it takes forever to dry and because they're much thicker in consistency. It pissed down when i was doing my painting in the shed and consequently it caused the paint to to sponge up.

WTF did you use? Acrylic or urethane enamel? Did you forget the catalyst?? I can do an entire car with from sealer to clearcoat in a morning & have it dry for buffing out after lunch. Why didn't yours kick off?
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