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Overhauling brake calipers - Guide

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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 21:28 - 20 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuck this shit, I'm sticking with my CG!

(Drum brakes)

*Goes and cowers in corner*
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Bullet
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PostPosted: 02:15 - 21 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

stripped my spare ones down, planning to fit them to my road bike with new seals and a respray e.t.c ordered the seals and they were almost £65 !!!!! (4 pot tokico's) there must be a cheaper place so i would sugest that people dont get them from kawaski like i did as i think thats rediculous!
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mylow
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PostPosted: 18:56 - 24 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

When putting the seals back in, it says on your guide to use brake fluid to lube the seal, my old man has said it needs to be done with some kind of brake lube, would it make any difference using brake fluid or brake lube

Cheers peps
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kat250
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PostPosted: 22:59 - 24 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think brake fluid is best option i have use silicon grease as it doesnt corrode the seals as its not petrol based.
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mylow
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PostPosted: 00:41 - 26 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

when connecting the brake lines back to the calipers, should there be any washers between the banjo bolt and the caliper. I have put mine back together but its leaking from the bolt, I dont remember any washers when i took them off, cheers peps
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JGY6000
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 26 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

when i did my seals not long ago i was recomended to use silicone lubricant spray, so i did and the pistons slipped in nice and smoothley and it done the job Thumbs Up

and yes i think theres washers between all the connections mate
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White Noise
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 26 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jose wrote:
and yes i think theres washers between all the connections mate


Yes there defintly should be a brass washer on both sides of the banjo bolt
WN
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mylow
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PostPosted: 15:43 - 26 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks a lot guys been a great help, and the so has this guide, thanks again Thumbs Up Clapping
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 12:06 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

White Noise wrote:

Yes there defintly should be a brass washer on both sides of the banjo bolt
WN


Copper washer.
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fuzz
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PostPosted: 14:25 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just curious, what difference would brass washers make? I had [edit]aluminium[/edit] washers on as standard.
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Last edited by fuzz on 17:21 - 31 Mar 2006; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 14:55 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The point of copper washers is that they compress and seal the joint (like a gasket). Brass will not do this (well, it might just about but it is a poor choice of material). Aluminium alloy washers are also commonly used.

All the best

Keith
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White Noise
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Copper washer.


i mean't copper washer Embarassed
WN
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quacker_boy
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 31 Mar 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers to WN for the help with my calipers Very Happy

Get your arse down to exmouth and i'll buy you a cold one! Razz
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 17:17 - 08 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

meh, my turn

rear caliper brake pads were really low so decided to renew them, the pad retaining pins were seized solid, and even a whack with a drift and hammer wasnt shifting them

lost my patience and disconnected the caliper from the hose, so as to get it away from the bike, and onto a concrete floor so i could hit it harder, in the end had to manually scrape all the encrusted shite off the retaining pins before they would slide out and release the pads

in short, a major pain in the arse

while i was there, i split the caliper, as it was in such a state... totally neglected, dont think its been done before

few questions..

1) are aftermarket pistons and seals acceptable, as yamaha will no doubt charge a mint...

2) i've cleaned it with 'gunk', and its no doubt in the fluid ways and probly on the seals... is this a problem?

3) do you need to renew the rubber seals between calipers halves before you re-make the caliper?

4) do i need to use loctite or copper slip or anything on the threads of the bolts that hold the halves together?

brakes are an arse! many thanks Thumbs Up
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White Noise
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 08 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

WildGoose wrote:
few questions..

1) are aftermarket pistons and seals acceptable, as yamaha will no doubt charge a mint...

what state are the pistons in? are they salvagible (not warped or badlt pitted). i have found using wet on dry on them works well to get tough nicks off them as also give a smooth finish to allow them to slide better, you can buy the seals sepratly and have always gone with yam parts, expensive for what they are but then again you want reliablity with brakes

2) i've cleaned it with 'gunk', and its no doubt in the fluid ways and probly on the seals... is this a problem?

are the pistons out? wash the whole thing out with water, then use a clutch cleaner to get rid of the water, make sure all the water is out of the brakes will feel spongy.

3) do you need to renew the rubber seals between calipers halves before you re-make the caliper?

not unless they have gone brittle and cracked

4) do i need to use loctite or copper slip or anything on the threads of the bolts that hold the halves together?

nope, well i didn't

brakes are an arse!

no they are not! Laughing any problems PM me


WN
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 09 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

if ive left the calipers soaking in 'gunk' overnight, will it have damaged any of the seals?

assume gunk is petroleum based

ive got some clutch and brake cleaner on order, but it wont be here for a day or two
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

right, the "between caliper" seals are nackered

looking at the parts book these arent things you can order, i think they are injection moulded or set in place when the calipers are assembled, so you cant order them

is it possible to re-do them with instant gasket or the like?

where were yours in those pictures?
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White Noise
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

WildGoose wrote:
is it possible to re-do them with instant gasket or the like?


i wouldn't due to the pressures invovled in the brake system, you would not want one of those seals to go under hard braking, what bike is it? have you got in touch with the parts department of a local dealer
the attached pic shows where the seals sit on my calipers

https://www.bikechatforums.com/download.php?id=32497

WN
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Last edited by White Noise on 23:38 - 12 Apr 2006; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:36 - 12 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Those seals seem to be forgotten on the parts list quite often. For example the FZ750 parts list doesn't show them, but people just order Suzuki ones (forgotten the model they come from). Find a decent parts bod and they should be able to help you.

All the best

Keith
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 15:08 - 13 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

brake piston removing tool arrived in this mornings post

reasonably clever design, but ultimately all it is doing is providing a big fucking handle to pull on to remove the piston, i was expecting that it would push against the body of the caliper or something

anyway, isnt it sods law that the biggest adaptor it comes with is still way too bloody small for the massive pistons on the rear caliper

although im sure it will be useful for the front calipers
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 13 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

righty, suzuki and kawasaki sell those seals, they are standard across their own range, and are around 6mm, yamaha do not seem to list them on any of their part catalogues (the ones the bike shop guy checked anyway)

mine are 13mm so typically they were miles to small, was about to abandon all hope, when i found a rubber shop, proper old fashioned, over the counter type business tucked away in a back street, total off chance

they were able to knock me up a selection of seals to try, cut out of rubber matting, they even looked up which rubber wouldnt be adversely affected by brake fluid and made them with that

4 seals and about 20 mins of trial and error on their part, and only charged 2 quid Thumbs Up

so hopefully should be in the clear now Very Happy
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Wave2k
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 13 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

how much to overhaul my brakes mike Laughing
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edd
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PostPosted: 03:18 - 15 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

to remove old pistons i use a foot pump connected to a valve sliced out of and old push bike inner tube, shoved into then JB welded into half an old scabby brake hose. Its a really simple thing to make, out of stuff that you probably have lying around. Siezed pistons usually take about 100psi of air behind them before they budge, so watch out for any residual brake fluid and dont let the piston hit you. (putting it in a bag/box helps) Thumbs Up
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WildGoose
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 15 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

righty, got there in the end Very Happy all the brakes are back on, overhauled and cleaned, and just awaiting a massive bleeding operation amd hope none of the seals decide to fail Razz

last hurdle was the fact that the pads in the rear caliper were stuck too far out to allow for enough space for two new pads and a brake disk, but taking out some agression with my 24oz rubber mallet and a block of wood sorted them out eventually

got to say the hero of brake operations is definately the rubber mallet and drift, wouldnt have been able to do this without them Wink

cheers for all the advice, white noise et al Thumbs Up
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