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Repainting the engine

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fuzz
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PostPosted: 21:51 - 14 Apr 2006    Post subject: Repainting the engine Reply with quote

After this Winter has taken it's toll on the paintwork of my SV650S, I decided to repaint it and give it a fresh look. I'll be doing a quickish job of it, by that I mean the engine will remain in the frame, and I will be masking areas off like the frame, downpipe etc.

So off to Halfords to get some high temperature paint. I found a matt black and also some cleaning solvent to degrease/demuck the area first.

This is what the engine block looked like before starting.

https://img126.imageshack.us/img126/7821/p10100862bk.jpg

Notice how the paint has completely peeled away between engine blocks. I had already started by the time I realised I could document it, so the rest of the pictures are from the other side. Both sides were as bad as each other; infact the left side was worse.

First clean the area of all dirt, grease, salt, everything. A wash and dry first, follwed by the cleaning solvent from Halfords, got the area nice and prepped. Then I sanded down the area with a sanding foam pad. It was useful because it got into the nooks while still being able to grip it well enough to be effective. Notice I haven't sanded down the valve cover. This I will be doing when I check the valve clearances.

https://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1250/p10100876zb.jpg

More solvent cleaner got rid of the paint dust. After masking off the areas and getting down to as much bare aluminium as I could, I started spraying. The key, I found, was to spray in very short bursts. The paint dried to the touch within a few seconds.

https://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8135/p10100889fv.jpg

I'm not too concerned at the moment with spraying the crankcase cover. I can remove the paint later with a some Autoglym.

As I said, take your time when spraying. I started to go a little quicker because it was all going well. I ended up putting too much on in one go and this happenned.

https://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4330/p10100895iy.jpg

I had to remove the paint back to bare metal, wet and dry it, and repaint. Don't be tempted to use more solvent cleaner, as the drips will spoil the paint and will also need sanding again before repainting. It's spoilt it a little, but it doesn't look at all bad. The can says to wait 10-15 minutes between coats, until dry to the touch. As the area was so small and the coats of paint are ultra thin, I put a new coat on after 3 minutes or so.

More to come tommorrow when there's daylight to finish it off.
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DucatiEVO
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 14 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks like the paint has reacted due to a contaminated surface, rather then to much paint applied.
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fuzz
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 14 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you can see in the picture above, the paint is smooth when applied sparingly. As soon as I sprayed too much at once, it started bubbling up as you can see in the bottom picture. After I had removed it and gone back to using it lightly, it remained smooth.
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phantomtek
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PostPosted: 02:53 - 15 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good there fuzz. The Halfords VHT paint is good stuff, I used it on the expansion chamber and exhaust on my old bike, looked next to new when I was done, looked really good. And the instructions are stupid, dried quickly with me too.

Looks good. Thumbs Up

P.S Is the cleaning solvent good then? How much was it ?
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fuzz
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PostPosted: 09:58 - 15 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was about £5 for the can, but I think it's just brake and carb cleaner. Smells the same and evaporates just as quick.
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craigs23
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 15 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks smarter - how's the finish though? A friend of mine sprayed the engine casings on his CB1, but found, because the bike's water cooled, the paint didn't 'bake on' like it should have done - bits rubbed off after a while when he had to clean the casings again (even when only using soapy water).

A respray followed by a couple of quick coats of laquer have helped, but I reckon normal paint would take to the 'cooler' engine casings better, VHT being best for exhausts and what not.
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Jack_Cheese
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 16 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

craigs23 wrote:
Looks smarter - how's the finish though? A friend of mine sprayed the engine casings on his CB1, but found, because the bike's water cooled, the paint didn't 'bake on' like it should have done - bits rubbed off after a while when he had to clean the casings again (even when only using soapy water).

A respray followed by a couple of quick coats of laquer have helped, but I reckon normal paint would take to the 'cooler' engine casings better, VHT being best for exhausts and what not.


Couldn't agree more. The sv is air/oil cooled, so i suppose it should bake on better than a liquid cooled bike. I've been considering painting mine, but i think it would make the bike over-black.

Congratulations on breaking the first rule of painting Thumbs Up Razz Everyone rushes on their first few jobs.

Jack
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phill.c
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PostPosted: 15:50 - 26 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

what was the foam pad you used like for sanding it down? as you said it gets in all the knooks, ive been using sand paper and a wire brush on mine at the moment but still can't get into every little corner. oh and what do they look like?
thanks
phill.c
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MikeH
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 28 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

fuzz wrote:
As you can see in the picture above, the paint is smooth when applied sparingly. As soon as I sprayed too much at once, it started bubbling up as you can see in the bottom picture. After I had removed it and gone back to using it lightly, it remained smooth.


It's because the more paint you put on the longer it takes to dry hence giving the chemicals and solvents longer to react with the base layer. You may find it will peel eventually anyway as the paint is obviously reactive with the original finish. If this happens you'll need to strip it back to bare metal and start again and you'll need to etch prime first as it's alloy. Otherwise it will just peel again and again. I think you'll probably find now you've started, it will be an annual event unless you strip it completely and do it properly.

Phill.c get your self a bit of Nitromors to clean out the corners Wink

Mike
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phill.c
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 28 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

nitromors is that like a paint stripper turn rust remover?
cheers
phill
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MikeH
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 28 Apr 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paint Stripper, be careful it melts plastics
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