Not a bike, but wifies Tourneo brake issues. Help.

[Polarbear]

Ford Tourneo Connect 2016 1.5 diesel. I need some help from any resident mechanics, car gurus or people who have any experience of this problem. A bit of an epic story -

Wifies Tourneo Connect (Transit based thingy) seemed to lose power while she was driving it. Turned out front nearside brake caliper had siezed on according to RAC who ferried it back to our local Formula 1 who had just serviced and fitted new tyres.

They replaced the brake caliper, both front discs and pads and gave it her back.

A few hundred miles later exactly the same thing happened, brakes seized on, RAC recovered it back to Formula 1 again. RAC man was pretty scathing in his report saying they hadn't looked for an issue, just replaced the damaged bits.so I had a rather epic rant at them not least because it frightened the life out of wifie when the brakes jammed on.

Formula 1 fitted a new front flexi incase it had collapsed internally. This didn't cure the brake binding so they stripped everything down and found the driver side rear had been binding as well and needed rebuild. They did this and on testing said the front left and back right brakes were still binding and reckoned it must be the ABS modulator/pump unit at fault and they weren't equipped to do this repair and it should go to Ford.

So I very gingerly drove it home as they said it only locked up if you braked hard. Anyway I got it home and it's now on the drive. It's so far cost me a grand for brake parts and labour (including a substantial discount from Formula one) and all pads and discs and two calipers are new so I don't want to wreck them.

So to my questions. Are they probably right with the ABS unit failure. I have had absolutely no warning lights up in respect to this fault and would have expected an ABS failure to come up. Bearing in mind that the brake system on most cars is split so if you get a failure you still have some brakes does the fact front left and rear right are binding point to something else, maybe master cylinder?

Please anyone with any ideas however outlandish. I dread to think how much it will cost me if I simply say to Ford, come and get it and sort it out.

Many thanks for reading if you haven't fallen asleep by now!!!
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[Nobby the Bastard]

Braeks on 4 wheeled vehicles are on two seperate lines, Left front/rear right and right front/rear left so its got to be something that is affecting the whole line. That really just limits it down to the ABS pump or the master cylinder.

I would suspect the master cylinder, The ABS pump should only become involved when a wheel locks or slowws dramtically compared to the others.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Polarbear]

[Nobby the Bastard]

A seal kit for the master cylinder would be vastly less than a ABS pump as well.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[jaffa90]

It looks like a common problem, just google

( Brakes not releasing on Ford Tourneo Connect 2016 1.5 diesel.)

[Polarbear]

[WD Forte]

Phuctyfiono I only drive old bangers
But this post from
https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/threads/2019-ford-transit-connect-front-right-brake-sticky.96206/

suggests the ABS modules are often to blame

"I wouldn’t say I figured it out. But I gave up on spending money. Here was my solution. For starters. I’m 99% sure it’s the ABS module that’s going bad in these vans. Part was around 2,000$ and it’s not a job I was willing to do.
The thing is buried deep in the engine bay. Too deep for this guy. So I started playing with fuses. There are 2 30A fuses under the hood in the engine bay. One of for ABS. One for traction control. Pull either one you get the typical dash lights (traction control, brake light and ABS light) but if you pull the ABS, you also loose you speedometer. Odometer and all the dash cluster stuff.
BUT
if you pull the little 5A fuse marked for ABS / Traction Control. It will disable the system. (Still get dash lights, but speedo and everything work as they should) and with this fuse pulled it not longer allows the ABS module to activate. Allowing me to drive as if I always should have been able to.
Get some electrical tape and cover over those lights. I should have know buying ford would turn out this way. Sorry ford lovers. Everything built like crap now. Not just fords."


Other posts:

We've had several of these do the same thing. F/L & R/R will lock after bleeding brakes and pressing the pedal once they lock up again. It turned out that the ABS Module gets jammed up and needs to be replaced. Ran tests with scan tool and didn't fix issue had to replace part and have ford recalibrate it. Hope this helps

#35 · Jun 22, 2024
Same for me. 3k worth of work and c parts
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bikers smell of wee

[Polarbear]

[Robby]

More importantly, if you pull that 5a fuse you can diagnose the problem. If you're sure it is the ABS pump, and it's a common failure, you should be able to get a remanufactured unit and have it fitted by a local garage.

I'm going to assume that disabling the ABS is an MOT fail, so removing the fuse is not a long term solution.

Has it had regular brake fluid changes?

[Polarbear]

[Easy-X]

You might just need to bleed the system. I put something on the "Dear Auntie" section about the wife's Grand C-Max, similar issue: brake locked on, the front much more than the diagonal opposite at the back it seemed.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=334801

tl;dr laptop + cheap software + OBD2 lead allows an automated brake bleed (some function of the ABS unit apparently) that works. The normal pump brake pedal while fiddling with the brake caliper nipple does not.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

Polarbears ongoing saga and expense at local garages makes me wonder how useful they are.
It appears they're doing a lot of swap and hope at his expense while a few seconds googling gets much better info
in telling us how the ABS modules on Connects can be a massive PITA.
As Robby says, just pulling a 5A fuse and driving it will quickly and cheaply give an indication whether the ABS is to blame or not
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bikers smell of wee

[Nobby the Bastard]

Hmm, I stand corrected.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Polarbear]

[Polarbear]

[Easy-X]

The disc and pads were cooked on the affected wheel. I took no chances and replaced disc, caliper, pads and flexi-hose but in hindsight the caliper and hose were probably salvageable.

Not had any problems since getting all the air out with the software. People were suggesting master cylinder or ABS unit on Ford owners' forums but BCF had the correct answer

Worth bearing in mind: regardless of what your fault actually is, this software bleeding procedure will need to be done at the end anyway. For the cost of a couple of bottles of brake fluid it might be worth trying first. Of course, inspect pad and disc wear as well. If you're giving it to a garage to do, ask them how they bleed the brakes on this sort of Ford. TBH it looks exactly the same as my wife's Grand C-Max but with a square arse. Same year, same engine too.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Polarbear]

Well, pulled the 5a ABS fuse and no change as in the brakes take a few seconds to unbind after hard braking. Of course I suppose that could be because the ABS unit is stuck in a certain position or something, I don't know. Our drive is a slight slope and if I put the brakes on hard then release, you can feel the brakes dragging slightly as they release and then the van starts to roll down the drive.

It's certainly driveable but having had new discs and pads I don't want to fcuk them up straight away.

I'm going to go down the software route that Easy suggested but even if that works I'm a bit worried that it will seize up again as the first time it happened was straight out of the blue.

Hey ho, I can see this being an epic and expensive journey. Thanks all for help and suggestions.
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[Robby]

[Easy-X]

Note: the brakes might not be "releasing" in the sense you're thinking, as in the pistons easing back and taking pressure off the pads. What's probably happening is you're shaving a layer off the pad surface
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[P.]

Exactly what happened on family members ford c max, send the abs control.unit for recon, £200 or so, then bleed when back, you can manually bleed but easier to plug in the free ford diag stuff.

[Polarbear]

[sickpup]

[blurredman]

[Easy-X]

[blurredman]