Fettled Bike 2. 1979 Yamaha DT175MX Restoration.

[tinkicker]

Sorry about that little spat guys. I claim the most responsibility for that.

I am currently taking a week off work, sank five large bottles of Peroni last night in the evening sun and was a bit shitfaced.
I make it a rule never to go on the internet when pissed, yet I sometimes do. When I do, I tend to respond differently to minor irritations than I normally would. I never was much good at obaying rules...

Stinky. My bad, I overeacted.

Back to the thread.

So the sun came out and a test ride was on the cards, which went without trouble. I was allowing it to rev through the gears, but avoiding full throttle operation.

Another ride out occurred and I was riding it normally. Since it will not pull full throttle in top gear because of it being overgeared for the road, I just let it get to 50 - 55mph (5000 - 5500 rpm), and roll off till it maintains speed only. Just wasting fuel and wearing the engine trying to go faster.
Top speed is actually faster in 5th than in top because it can get to its max power rpm before drag overcomes it...

Back home. Remembered the headlamp not working. Flicked it on to test again.... Nothing. Damn and blast.
Looked at the switch labels closely and switched the on off switch on instead of the dip/ main switch and headlight came on.. DOH!

I had it in my head that the outer was on off, and inner was dip/main and never checked because I fully expected the devil bike to screw with my head again, wheh I thought the problems had finally been addressed.

Not the case. Nothing wrong with the headlight all along, it was the feeble light bulb in my head, along with the paranoia that was the problem.

Light switch is opposite to what I thought intuitively. My VFR750 main/dip is at the top of the left switch in the same position as the on off switch on the DT. Perhaps this is what caused the confusion.

One more test run to help someone on here out suffering from an apparent lack of rpm was on the cards.
Since I was about to be giving full throttle in a lower gear, I gave the oil pump max output another test - it was fine and set out.

Full throttle in fourth gear made 7250rpm, according to the tach, but I have a feeling the tach is lagging a bit.
It did not sound strangled, just run out of steam and sounded like very high rpm.

I have reason to suspect the tach is not telling the truth in the very upper ranges but no smoking gun.

When it is idling, the needle tends to waver up and down a bit by about 300 rpm.
I set idle speed at the bottom reading of its little tantrum.

Cable ( new) is lubed with moly grease with only the top 4 inches left with standard lube on it and is routed according to the good book. Yet the wavering continues. Just like a broken cable.
Nothing I can do about that. I will ignore it.

Once I got home and let the bike cool, I pulled the plug to check the colour in "everyday" riding conditions. Not a difinitive high speed plug chop, but a good indication.
Pre new liner, the plug colour was milk chocolate brown.

After new liner, the plug colour is a light tan.

That is close enough for me. No more messing with jets or anything else.

The demon has been exorcised and we come to the end of this tale....
Or have we? Can I ever just leave the soddin thing in peace?

Hope you enjoyed the read.

I can concentrate fully on the " little yeller, new addition" thread now.

Bikechat edit..
That particular thread came to an end. But the devil bike has not finished with me. I had another current thread about the devil bike running at the same time as I was updating this older historical one.
The original because of other peoples contributions ran to 17 pages.
I kept those countributions out of this thread and let you off lightly with a relatively short thread.
You did not need a short missive about my restoring a 1980s Honda CB900 for instance, I cut out that entire thread twist as it was not directly relevent to this thread, however it was in tune with the original contributors.

I will tack the more current thread on to the end of here. Another very long thread for the same reasons, but I will only include my own posts to keep it relatively short and cut out the inherent thread twists that are not relevent to the devil bike completely

Again, because of this it may seem disjointed or go off at a tangent at times as I respond to others questions and observations.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

New thread........


Had the devil bike DT175 on a nice ride out this bank holiday afternoon. I was naughty and put about 30 miles on her, enjoying the new found zip and the motor doing two stroke type things rather nicely. I did not want to go home.
On the way back, she went onto reserve about six or seven miles from home, so headed back the shortest route.
Came out of a neighbouring village onto the lane back to my village with about four or five miles to go and the lane being unrestricted, opened her up through the gears and into top.
My word, she was flying. 60mph, lovely smooth power.
She has never achieved 60 and 6000rpm in top on my overgeared setup before. I was revelling in it.

Running absolutely lovely. Then she wasn't. A single backfire and shut down. No nipping up, just stopped firing.

I thought I had completely run out of fuel, but no, the filter was still full...

A prod on the kickstart was.... A little disappointing. Like standing on a rotten tomato.
Oh God. I know what that is.

I pulled the plug, observed the dark gray colour insulator and ground electrode with alloy flecks in it, threw it into the field as far as I could in disgust and started the long push home.

I have no answers....
Ignition spot on. Set by dial gauge. Double checked by strobe.
Rotor key is intact.
I did a wide open throttle plug chop previously, showing slightly rich at the top end.
Genuine Yamaha piston.
B8ES plug.
New crank seals including an IT175 item on the left.

I did consider leaving it at the side of the road overnight..... Fecking feckity fecker of a bike. I feel like I did ten rounds with mike tyson after pushing the fecker five miles. It did the tendonitis in my ankle no good at all.

It is going to have to wait in line now. I will finish the little one before I get around to the devil bike again.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[Easy-X]

It's pushing a bike where you realise there are a lot more inclines than you'd previously been aware of
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

They do always seem to run really well immediately before they blow up.

Dunno if that's cause or effect.

Your wavery rev counter could be a broken damper/return spring? Since you do watchmaking, you'll be better equipped than me to fix something like that, they always look like watchworks to me when I go into them (usually to glue a needle back on).

Top tip for pushing a bike. Don't push it, pull it. Find a bit of rope or a strap/bailer twine and tie it round your waist or to your belt. Tie the other end to the back of the bike somewhere (carrier rack, pillion handle, rear footpeg) and set the length so it's just coming tight as you are stood at the bars in the position where you'd usually push it. Then all your arms need to do is steer it and you're moving the weight using centre bodymass. On thing to note is you need to stop both you and the bike with the front brake or Chuckle Brothers levels of comedy can ensue.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[tinkicker]

Actually I am not too downhearted. When it was running so well, I had an inkling that something was going to blow up in my face. Nevertheless, if it was going to do it, lets get it over with. I confess I wrung its bloody neck down that lane.

I never came across an engine that did not run the best ever shortly before it was going to die.

350 Bultaco. Always a lovely motor. Suddenly became hyper smooth and seemingly more power and torque.
Then the crank pin tore itself loose from the right flywheel 30 minutes later.

CB900FA. Same thing. Always a nice engine. Suddenly seemed to lose 20,000 miles and 15 years. Hyper smooth and refined as one would expect of a bike fresh from the dealers showroom. Running in perfection. It died under the wheels of a mitsubishi shogun 10 miles later.

Did I ever mention how lucky I am?
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

I brought home one of my inspection mirrors and had a peep down the plug hole...

Confirmed. Hole in piston maybe 12mm in diameter.

I finally got my phone to talk to flickr and send the plug pic I took before launching it on a ballistic trajectory into the shrubbery and starting my walk of shame.

Here we are:
Comments appreciated. I am out of my experience zone. I never saw a holed piston before in the flesh. Everything I know about it is anecdotal.
I think the stock plug is too hot and as RT says could do with a 9 or 10. I also read elsewhere that the stock plug in the 175 was very borderline hot.
Piston crown is same colour though so it might have gone lean as the fuel got low. I do not know what I am looking at though, it does not look lean to me.
This is my first ever holed piston. Does it make everything turn grey? I was expecting burned white.
I was expecting mounds of alloy on the plug, not a tiny dusting.

Snapshot of conditions at exact point of failure.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53150001031_a936a23091_h.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Thanks guys. The motor will come down. If nothing else it gives me a chance to put one of my previous paranoid thoughts to bed.. I can run a setsquare around the crank to make sure it is not misaligned.

RT made a comment that reminded me of a one off odd occurence on the ride that I shrugged my shoulders at and carried on.

Getting ready for work now, so will elaborate when I get home again.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Nothing really to update.

Piston is holed and the bike will not get any attention till the little one is finshed. It is just languishing in the conservatory.
I have not even bothered removing the tank or seat.

I did allude to a transitory "issue" earlier. I was going through a small country town earlier in the ride. Very narrow streets. Two cars cannot pass each other narrow.
I came to a T junction and the rpms hung for a very small moment. Not hung as in revving its arse off, but not falling back to idle as crisply as it did, it took a second or two to drop from 3000rpm to 1500. Also the exhaust seemed to be louder at the tailpipe than usual. Less muffled and more crackle.

After that one time, it never did it again. Everything seemed normal for another 10 miles. One of those things you shrug your shoulders at. Perhaps it was just fuel getting heated up more in the pipes and carb as very low speeds, low airflow and low fuel flow made everything run hotter.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Nah. I am not really down in the mouth about it. For the first time I felt that it was getting really close to completion and was enjoying riding it and I have learned a lot from this episide.

I perhaps went too far in going down two jet sizes from my spurious 130 to the spurious 120 that came with the bike.
130 was obviously too rich, it was not producing the power.
Now I know that 120 is too lean. The issue was compounded by dropping the needle a notch to get the midrange right, compensating for that likely overgenerous, spurious chinese 130.

I have resolved to find and fit a genuine Mikuni #130 main in both the DT100 and the 175, as per official Yamaha spec. DT100 main jet having being tampered with sometime in the past.

Total cost maybe £80 for a new genuine std piston. I am reusing the old rings as they are bedded in to the bore, provided they are not blued, nor have damage. If they feel like toffee, of course I will have to fit new and hone the bore.
£15 for a jet.
£10 for a gasket set and odds and ends.
Plus maybe 5 hours work dropping the motor, stripping it down, checking crank alignment, cleaning the bits of melted alloy out, rebuilding it and slotting it back in.

A small price to pay to finally rid the demon hand from this bike.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

UK Parts book for my model deffo states 1371414326 # 130 main is std with 125 and 135 optional.
needle jet and needle are correct. IIRC 02 and 4j13-3. Slide 2.0mm cutaway.

Running premium 99 octane fuel in all my bikes.

As for wear. Bear in mind the bike has just rolled over 2000 miles from new.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Holy thread ressurection Batman.

DT100 finally put to one side, time to pull the head and check the bore for damage before ordering a piston.

Thankfully the bore has escaped with no apparent damage, certainly above the exhaust port. I will pull the jug tomorrow. I only stay in the conservatory for a half hour at a time in the winter. With it being cold in there, I do not want my breath causing a problem with humidity/ condensation.

I can now order a new OEM std piston. I have been watching one for a few weeks. Since the rings are new and are just bedded into the bore, I will reuse those.

Parts already arrived:
Genuine mikuni main jet #130 as fitted as std.
New mains. I could clean the old ones out, I doubt they are damaged, but while I have the motor apart... For the sake of a tenner for new ones.
Gasket set.
175 wide small end bearing.
Piston circlips.

I will not bother disturbing the crank seals, just make sure they are squeaky clean.

Holy piston. Thanks for the five mile / 3 hour push home.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53444986732_627b26c26d_h.jpg

Undamaged bore. PJME did a good job and rest assured, the sleeve has not come loose as someone would have dearly liked to have happened ...


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53444986692_f39f9c886f_h.jpg
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Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Piston ordered. It was listed as for an NVT Rambler which used the DT175MX motor.
I have had my eye on it for weeks, it is half the price of one from CMSNL, but knew if I ordered it, I would find bore damage and need a first over.

No box shown, just writing on the top showing yam part number and NVT part number. I suppose people thought it may not actually be a genuine one and not take the chance.

Once again fate has intervened and provided the right part at exactly the right time..

Always say never miss a chance to educate others with important information they may require to get themselves out of a tight spot in the future.

Someone care to pipe up and tell us how there is irrefutable evidence that it is a genuine piston and a genuine bargain without a genuine box.


Piston pics
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/bQ4AAOSwW8VkU8uF/s-l1600.jpg

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2lEAAOSwkEFkU8uH/s-l960.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Yes indeed UncleAl. ART make OEM pistons for Yamaha. Good enough for me to believe the seller is correct in his assertions and it is not cheap crap chinese knockoff.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[stinkwheel]

I've holed pistons on two strokers. Both were eventually tracked down to lean running conditions. One of them had a shot crank seal, the other one had a hairline crack in the inlet manifold (which took dye testing to find). Over advanced ignition timing and detonation would also do it, that can happen in seconds. Both engine states could easily be associated with a sudden unexplained increase in power output.

I think lean running rather than advanced timing is more likely because there's no nibbling on the plug electrode. Plug looks very sooty and I was wondering if a focus of carbon deposit might have been causing predetonation but the piston crown is squeaky clean. Too clean really given the increased rate of 2t oil inclusion, it's been getting HOT.

I also holed a piston on an enfield, the cause of that was more obvious because the bottom half of the exhaust valve was still stuck in the hole.

EDIT. Here's a piston from a 2t with a leaking crank seal. Not fully holed, it was a twin and the molten alloy arced out the plug electrode before it got all the way through. Rode it home on one pot. A distressingly large amount of spall comes off the underside of it too so it's probably worth flushing the crankcase. The main bearing in that bike was effectively alloy plated, although being a soft metal, it would probably have got rid of it over time.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[tinkicker]

[stinkwheel]

I wouldn't have expected a slightly undersize main to cause that level of problem. It would most likely get hot and possibly seize. Piston holing territory would mean running seriously lean. Significant air leak at the inlet manifold/head gasket/crankseal lean. Probably something that let go shortly before it happened (about when it started running like a cat on a hot tin roof).

Although I agree about the Chinese jets. I use them occasionally if I'm dialling in a totally unknown carb on an engine it wasn't meant for to get in the ballpark, then move onto the OEM ones to dial it in. Which aren't actually all that expensive, are you aware of Allens Performance for carb parts?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[tinkicker]

Sat on the sofa this morning, sipping my favourite Arabica bean beverage, watching youtube vids and occasionally looking into the conservatory to give the devil bike the stink eye..

I have a couple of hours before my stomach will start growling and insisting on feeding, so I girded my loins, hitched up my pants and went to do battle with lucifers folly.

Engine on bench, ready for further assessment. Not made my mind up whether to strip it at home or take it into work.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53448360403_b98e10aa56_h.jpg

My word, the ally dust got right back into the intake. Did not expect that. The reeds stopped it going further.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53448233511_2b8d876666_h.jpg

A right old mess. Not sure if it will need the crank pressing apart. That is a 0.020" feeler gauge between the thrusts and flywheels. Not sure of the max allowable, something tells me it is 0.015", but I cannot remember exactly after all this time. It looks and feels a lot, but not a lot of rock.
Edit. Its fine, well within tolerance.
I need to get the crank out to mic up overall flywheel width before deciding on the next course of action.
I need to check it is true in any case, but I am strongly leaning towards splitting the crank and at least fitting a new bearing and pin.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53447308197_3e53441f96_h.jpg

Little end bearing looks fine, no discolouring or bits of alloy in it. I have a new one in stock, so it will be discarded in any case. I will reuse the pin.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53447308187_c6c03bb332_h.jpg

The only score on the piston starts well below the rings, so happy to reuse them.
Likely caused by a clump of blown out alloy getting caught between cylinder and piston skirt. Damage confined to small section of skirt so ring area has not overheated.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53448648505_41b6dd7514_h.jpg

In respect of the new piston arriving, listed for a late 1970s NVT Rambler. That little bit of knowledge re piston manufacturer resulted in a £80 saving over buying from the dealer. The holed piston was genuine in a yamaha box. I will gladly do without the box....

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53447308157_44737eb6fe_h.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Reading back through this thread. It occurs that one member on here has been much maligned by a toxic character that is no longer with us for being errr toxic.

That maligned member being PJME and his motorcycle engineering business having to put up with someone spouting utter nonsense about his workmanship. It was well documented on the 175 restoration thread that PJ had fitted a sleeve into my barrel a month or so before this debacle and he could well have done without a certain doomonger crowing when the piston blew.

It also occurs that I can do something about that and this thread is the place to do it.

Cue a pic of PJMEs work.
New sleeve fitted into old liner. I had to look very carefully to see the fit line. You are looking for a circular line in the dark coloured ring... I can barely see it at all now it has been run and is the same colour as the surrounding liner. Dunno why it looks brown in the pic though, it doesn't to the eye. Just looks a normal colour.
edit. It is the utility room lighting and the phone camera processing it. Every pic taken in there looks brown.

And no, it never came loose or caused it to overheat. I alone bear that responsibility.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53448967174_0f5a49d825_h.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Well the motor is apart. I made a mistake in thinking to split it at home, wipe out the crankcase, refit the crank and screw it back together again. It made a 30 minute job a lot harder and longer than it need be due to my completely inadequate home tools. Should have taken it in to work to split.

For the want of some correct sized circlip pliers, a copper hammer and other bibs n bobs I left armageddon in my wake.

​​​​​I am going to have to change the crank seals yet again because it left the left hand bearing in the case when I drove out the crank. As ever, this sodding bike is going to make me jump through hoops.
I never knew a more recalcitrant machine in my entire life.

I have left an assortment of bent kick idler circlips, part rounded off crankcase screws and even a bruised gen rotor nut when my polyurethene hammer was not man enough to get the crank out of the left case and I lost my rag with it and got all medieval on its ass with a steel hammer.

I should have walked away and taken it into work tomorrow to tap out with my copper.. But no. A case of a red face and " I have had enough of you yer fecking bike, you are coming out yer bstard". I may even have bent the thread on the crank a bit more than it was, so it is going to have to go into work for straightening once and for all, and the crank checked for true. I am ashamed....
Deffo going to press the crank apart and check the pin and bearing properly now it is going into work tomorrow.

Of course, we all know what I will find... Rust pits and skidding ridges on the pin most likely. Its the only part that has not had attention after its 40 year sleep.

I see a ProX conrod kit looming... Or the crank getting thrown through a window into the canal. No point fitting a double lip IT175 seal on the gen side anymore. After checking the new seal path marks left on the shaft, there is corrosion pitting right where the outer lip runs.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Thanks for the tip Paul. Rod kit ordered. File Attachment:

By now as everyone will have guessed, I split the crank and it was not a happy clappy time.

As I forecast, rod, pin and bearing rollers were corrosion pitted and the rollers were showing signs of skidding.

Oh well. Entirely my fault. I should have checked them when I had the engine apart back in 2021.
They felt absolutely fine and still do. I relied on it having done less than 2000 miles from new.
Maybe the skidding rollers were the cause of the vibration I felt above 5000 rpm.

Apart from the bearings submerged under oil in the tranny and the clutch bush, that big end is officially the last bearing or bush that has not been changed on the entire bike. Everything is new.
I am thinking of just replacing everything and being done with it.
Seems no matter how carefully you inspect something on the devil bike, it will eventually force you to replace evidently serviceable parts.

Not something I expected to be doing when I bought a "fully overhauled" bike from a college motor vehicle lecturer.

Good job I split the crank to check. That big end did not have 500 miles left in it.

Seal paths evident on crank. Outside lip of IT175 seal fitted was directly over the corrosion pitting. The inner lip is clear and clean of shaft corrosion. No point in fitting another IT seal. It will just wear and blow through on the outer lip. I have ordered a standard genuine one that is well clear of any pitting.
Again, this is likely due to the crash 40 odd years ago where the generator cover was broken allowing moisture in.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453869982_aaf2b72cbd_h.jpg

Some rollers were in a dreadful condition. This crank gave absolutely no hint of any thing untowards, yet this is the devil bike. The decision to replace the rod assembly is a good one.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453870032_f6da750259_h.jpg

Pitted pin...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53455107859_11ba4dd969_h.jpg

Pitted rod on the bearing running surface...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53453869972_cafec3d411_h.jpg

At least I have got the wobbly thread trued up and the flywheels prepped.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53454795351_aae6a7adb3_h.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

So bits ordered...

Kick idler circlips that I butchered. ( correct sized pliers ordered for refitting - do not like bringing my work tools home, I invariably urgently need them for a job as soon as they are at home).
Gen rotor nut. ( Butchered in a fit of angst)
Crank seals.
Rod kit.
2x case screws.

Also got a koyo NR6304 bearing on order for the tranny output shaft. It feels and looks fine, but of all the bearings in the transmission, it is that one that would be most susceptible to hidden corrosion, being only protected by the oil seal and can only be changed by splitting the cases.

A bit of deliberation. A B9ES plug. The roads around here are all rural 60mph limits with little traffic. That means the bike is pretty much close to wide open most of the time. The largest town near here would be considered very small by most peoples standards and the next largest is just an overgrown village. My own village takes five minutes to walk from one end to the other. So very little low speed town work.
In view of this I consider a grade cooler plug to be added insurance, along with the standard, genuine mik main jet.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Rod kit arrived and I will press the crank back together on monday. It came with a new small end bearing, so I do not have to open the new genuine one. It is the correct, wide shouldered one for the 175.

Piston arrived and is identical in every respect to the old one.

The corrosion pitting on the left shaft has been sealed with loctite 660 shaft repair goop and sanded down to a polished surface. It is no good for running seal lips over, but will ensure the new seal does not get torn on any sharp edges on refitting. The inner lip is well clear of any pitting, which was confined to around the dust seal area.

I ordered the last remaining ballrace in the transmission for the input shaft. 6303z. Felt and looked fine, but for the sake of a fiver, I will replace it. I know that the two needle rollers are in perfect condition and have never corroded as I can see the running surfaces clearly.

So things should start happening next week.
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[tinkicker]

Crank rebuilt and trued without incident. Well apart from the last millimeter or so when the pin creaked and jumped.
Luckily I already had my feeler gauge in place so it stopped it jumping too far.

It got a sodding good grip on it though. A moment of consternation when I thought it was stuck solid. A good clout with the copper freed it though.

Crank trued up easier than I ever had before. Initial set up with square brought 0.05mm. A tap with a wedge between the flywheels brought it down to 0.01mm. About time it cut me a bit of slack.

0.01mm runout. Well within factory tolerance and at the limit of the gauge resolution. Happy with that.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53464257457_0ece48fa14_h.jpg

Other end. Width turned out to be 55.94mm. Close enough to 56mm for me. Esp considering it was a bit chilly in there this morning.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53465485384_cf49c54108_h.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.

[stinkwheel]

You used a hammer on the crank!?

For the benefit of future readers of this thread. Do not use a hammer to get a crank out of a main bearing. Use a puller to pull the crankcase off the shaft. If it wont come, add heat and try again. Same for re-fitting, hot bearing and cold crank usually gets it far enough to start winding it in with the crankcase bolts but I generally order in a bit of thick-walled pipe with the same OD as the inner race to use as a puller if necessary.

If you don't have the correct puller, you can usually cobble something together out of a universal harmonic balancer puller and a bit of steel plate as a base-plate like I did here:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczOulGRXQBuLzju7edxY4pEyQkwyiXWpXcmOrJIYa8__agguABfGrAUj3ps-Gezq2NMCUf1-tdQok0X5yBOULzg3qwYwjDPte4w2uHA0rkShCF4Jlo4w6Hwdhv8rQhgB4Isd3eI1VAiRpYMzhlUHddmr=w1557-h876-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[tinkicker]

Sigh....


Couple of hours to spare this morning. Cracked on building the bottom end.
Left case heated to 100C and crank dropped in. Transmission dropped in next, giving that expensive special output bearing one last glare before left case fitted.
Even tried the stores manager who orders 100s of bearings a week to see if he had seen a bearing with the same number. Nope. Out with the bearing books and nothing. Arm and a leg time..

Cases screwed together, tried the gears and I have a box containing six gears that snick in and out.

Fitted new piston with new small end, new circlips but original rings and pin. A word of caution when cleaning out a bottom end after a holy piston event. Even the piston pin had debris down inside its bore.

Bottom end complete. I will fit the top end tomorrow and leave the outer cases until after the motor is in the frame.

Still need to strip carb, subject it and the intake parts to a warm bath in my ultrasound machine. Rebuild with genuine std main jet and throw the damnable spurious ebay special one as far as I can over the garden wall into the field behind the house.

Bottom end built.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53475879635_b47357f6c4_h.jpg
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Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time.