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Rat engineering: Homemade "clip-on" handlebar

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Nath
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 29 Nov 2006    Post subject: Rat engineering: Homemade "clip-on" handlebar Reply with quote

A few days ago I crashed one of my bikes, a 1988 Honda Bros400, going over a speed bump a little too fast (60mph Sad). I lost control and got thrown off the bike before it proceeded to slide 50yards up the hill on its side, luckily avoiding hitting anything. Whilst I was lucky, the bike still sustained a little damage including a snapped handlebar which prevented me from riding or pushing it home. Today I made a replacement handlebar from some scrap steel.

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar1.jpg
My raw materials. A bit of scaffolding, a length of 7/8ths steel tube I'd found at the back of the garage, and an old homemade shelf bracket - Basically a length of 6mm flat bent at a rightangle.

Spent a few hours working away in the garage and managed to weld something together pretty much the same as I'd had planned in my head. Used a 10mm thread as I was a bit worried about the thickness of the scaffolding requiring a fair force to clamp it round the stanchion. Welded a nut onto my steel flat rather than messing around with a tap. Had the anglegrinders out a little bit, but also used a hacksaw and file for half of the work to save getting grind dust all over the garage.

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar2.jpg

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar3.jpg

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar4.jpg

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar5.jpg
The finished product! Not bad eh?

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar6.jpg
You can see that the homemade clipon points down at a slightly different angle to the 'proper' bar, but I couldn't feel the difference sat on the bike.

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar7.jpg


There ya go, not bad for an afternoons work starting with a few bits of scrap steel. Still need to cut it to length once I've got all the controls on, and possibly weld up the ends to stop water getting in. I may try and attach the bar end weight off the original clipon which I found in the middle of the road after my crash. Then just paint it to stop it rusting up.

Should look pretty tidy once all the control are on, and I dare say this bar will not snap in half as easily as the other one did!
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Gazdaman
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 29 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I read the title I thought "oh god, this is going to be shoddy".

Saw the first pic, thought, "wow, this is REALLY going to be shoddy".

But it's fucking quality mate! Seriously well done. I'd keep that on there, looks fine.

Nice one Thumbs Up

Gaz
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Klause
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PostPosted: 00:40 - 30 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember our rat conversations at Portugal faro. You certainly live up to your conversation ideas.

Planning on more trips at all? Believe im doing France and Italy with R4nger next summer.

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colin1
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PostPosted: 02:43 - 30 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

glad u r ok

not sure u shd trust your welding skills with something as critical as a handlebar

i liked your ammobox racks, but if they fail, u are ok

if the welds on your handlebar fail, u are fucked

i dont know enough about welds to know if those ones are good or not

also, one bar is a different weight from the other which i reckon will fuck up the handling

if you are determined to keep your home made bar, i think you should make another for the other side that will be the mirror image of the first

was going over the speed bump at that speed intentional or not ?

Nath wrote:

I dare say this bar will not snap in half as easily as the other one did!


the bar isnt the weak link, the welds might fail tho
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quacker_boy
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 30 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those welds look really done Nath, so i'd actually say ignore Colin that'll hold up for a long time.

For a bodge job, that is FUCKING impressive mate Thumbs Up

I'm sure one's longer than the other though Laughing
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G
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 30 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work.

Note 'sticky out bits' that don't snap/bend aren't always a good idea - as they may bend or snap something else.

A lot of racers use Harris clipons; which use a replaceable aluminium (I think) rod for the actual bar along with a more heavy duty fixing to the fork leg. Whle the bar may be more likely to bend, it's a pretty cheap bit to fix and ensures nothing more expensive goes.
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jon_nsr
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 30 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

just go buy one Rolling Eyes
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 30 Nov 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did wonder what you ended up doing Laughing tom will be pleased to hear your makeing use of the scaffold Laughing

Looks like a damn fine job though there..

follwing from what g said, one thing might be worth doing is drilling a hole through the end closest to the clamp, that way if it hits the deck it'll snap and not fark your forks? you've allready proved you can make a new clipon Laughing but new forks would be a beearch..
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Nath
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 01 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I can definitely see the logic in parts that are designed to break in a certain way, but I wouldn't have though this steel clipon should break in anything other than a big big crash which would do lots of other more serious damage as well. Not really possible for the clipon to damage the stanchion either.

Colin, I think you need to understand a little bit about metalology. If you cut a steel bar in half then weld it back together, the weld will be the strongest part of the bar. Everyone always talks about welds "failing", but how often do you see this? The last two broken frames I've seen posted on this forum from serious crashes did not snap at any welded joins (Gaz's Bandit and Andy's SV650).
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G
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 01 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

It shouldn't be a big problem, but the clip-on can quite easily 'pinch' the fork leg - as it's above the slidey bit it won't really compromise the bike.

Suspect it can also help to bend/twist the yokes as well, though.
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 01:00 - 01 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a go mig welding once, it was like a pidgeon had been fed laxative and slowy pressed in a vice..

The two pieces of flat bar welded end on end took 2TONS of force before it went and it wasn't the weld that went!.. and this was an abismal mess of a weld, not a pretty one.. pretty amazeing..

The breaking.. i dunno, the only thing i was thinking is the force being transfered through the yokes, could potentially crack them maybe.. dunno.. much like your pannier/wall incident Laughing probably not gonna be a problem though..

Alternatively just stop bloody crashing Razz (allthough i'm amazed its not a weekly thing in notts)
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palmer
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PostPosted: 16:05 - 01 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

jon_nsr wrote:
just go buy one Rolling Eyes


exactly what i was thinking Embarassed
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kawashima
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 01 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I am always surprised to read BCF is you have so much skill and facilities Shocked . Most of japanese riders ask bikeshops. Most of us don't have bike garage either. Many of you have skills as high as bike shops Shocked . I wonder if bike shop can do welding...
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gixerboy
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 01 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some I made:

https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v106/gixerboy1/anoclips.jpg
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colin1
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PostPosted: 01:59 - 02 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nath wrote:


Colin, I think you need to understand a little bit about metalology. If you cut a steel bar in half then weld it back together, the weld will be the strongest part of the bar. Everyone always talks about welds "failing", but how often do you see this? The last two broken frames I've seen posted on this forum from serious crashes did not snap at any welded joins (Gaz's Bandit and Andy's SV650).


there is a difference between a good weld and a bad weld.

good welds are strong, bad welds are not

home made welds are not always as good as welds made by manufacturers using skilled professional welders

funnily enough i do actually know about metallurgy including how to spell it.

when you heat metals their properties change and can remain changed, for example they can become very brittle

if you want to learn more, look up 'phase diagrams', and words like austenite, martensite etc

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austenite

all sorts of things affect the quality of the weld. in particular, if you weld something small to something big, the big thing may not heat up much when welded compared to the small thing which may get very hot. this may mean the weld sticks well to the small thing but not the big thing

a bit like when soldering, the difference between a wet joint and a dry joint

loads of other factors such as weld porosity, surface preparation (or lack of) etc

i dont know about welding, but i do know a bit about metallurgy. i sell steel for a living.

its possible your welds are great, but i dont think you can know that

gixerboys look imacculate and professionally done, but for all i know they are weaker
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palmer
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PostPosted: 10:42 - 02 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin you anorack Laughing
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 02 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
i sell steel for a living


For about 2 months Very Happy

Welding thick to thin is all about concentrating the heat in the right place, it isn't particularly complicated!

What on earth are home made welds.

Quote:
weld sticks well to the small thing but not the big thing


Weld doesn't stick to anything Confused
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colin1
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PostPosted: 20:30 - 02 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

he said i needed to understand a bit about metallurgy.

my point was that i know more about metallurgy than him as i studied it for my degree.

i dont think i know more about welding than him, but i do know that there is a difference between a good weld and a bad weld, and why.

its the quality of the weld that is important.

Maybe his welds are great, but he hasnt been welding much longer than i have been selling steel.

If he is confidant in the strength of his welds, fine, and no one has said oh my god that weld looks shit, so maybe its fine.

However when its such a critical bit of the bike, i dont think he should leave it to chance, but then i think he said that he was riding one of his bikes with no brakes for a while, so maybe he likes to take chances.
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Nath
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PostPosted: 05:08 - 03 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

"Leaving it to chance" - Utter rubbish. I'll tell you how to tell the difference between good and bad welding. You put what you've welded together in a vice and attack it with a gret big hammer, if it breaks apart then the welding wasn't much cop was it.

Maybe I have only been welding 6months, but I've made quite a few bits for my cb550 and have put them through the most strenuous use possible. You've admitted you know nothing about welding, yet still try to preach. Let me let you in on a secret, you say it's the "quality" of the welds that are important, but that is totally incorrect. It's the nature of the join that matters, even if you can produce a fantastic quality weld with great penetration it counts for shit if you actually join the two pieces of metal together in a stupid way. Take a standard cross shape, if you weld two pieces of steel flat together like that you can have 4 seperate runs of weld - Even if your welding is beyond shit you will still struggle to ever break apart the two bits of steel since that is an inherently strong joint.
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colin1
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 05 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

what you say makes sense, and i like it that you test your welds with a hammer Smile

i wasnt preaching, just saying what i thought

oh and palmer

palmer wrote:
colin you anorack Laughing


its anorak Smile
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Nath
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PostPosted: 21:43 - 13 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two weeks later, and I finally found the time to finish off my handlebar and get it on the bike.

I decided to use the old bar-end weight thinking that this would be the key detail that would determine whether the bar looked like a bodge or like a professional replacement. So I welded up the top end, then cut the bar to length and welded a nut inside for the bar-end weight to screw into. Sprayed the exposed part of the bar, stuck my controls onto it, and jobs a good'un.

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar8.jpg

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/steven.coy/images/handlebar/handlebar9.jpg

Total cost of handlebar: £0.00
Had to buy replacement switchgear and brakelever off eBay for almost £30, and need to spend another fiver on a replacement lid for the brakefluid resevoir. But all in all not too bad a cost to sort out the consequences of quite a bad crash. Unfortunately there are now too many things "wrong" with the bike for it to ever be a good condition standard bike again, so I suspect it will probably get the full-on rat treatment at some point next year Twisted Evil
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Jenks
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PostPosted: 01:44 - 14 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

or sellll to meeeeeeeeeeeeee
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colin1
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PostPosted: 02:58 - 14 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

does the handling feel any different ?

it is nice that you get stuck in with all this stuff, even if it does make me a bit nervous

i tend to have this daft idea that some things should be left to 'professionals' when in my experience, they are often worse than a novice with a bit of advice from the internet
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palmer
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PostPosted: 09:47 - 14 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree colin.

Even if i could weld realy well, id still rather have a 'professional' do the work. Then if it fails you can have a go at him Laughing
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feef
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PostPosted: 10:01 - 14 Dec 2006    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:
home made welds are not always as good as welds made by manufacturers using skilled professional welders


I suggest you read my thread about the FJR gearbox..

and most manufacturers use robotic welders these days, and have less control over the quality of a single weld. I'd trust a competent welder more than a machine for consistency.

a
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