Help bolts sheared trying to remove rectifier. - What a day.

[kawakid]

Ohh, What a day. See my other post today
https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=105364

Anyway I've tried and let me say I've failed to remove the rectifier,
what a stupid position it is right under the rear wheel.

Must have got hit by so much grime over the years. Anyway both bolts on the rectifier just sheared off.

There is currently the thread going through the rectifier. But the bit you turn at the bottom has come off and there's no height to get in from above. At the top, the bolt goes in to a nut, which is welded on to the frame. Ohh the swing arm is an inch or 2 underneath,
so hardly any space to maneuver or even think about drilling it out,
because the angle won't allow.


Thus there must be thread going through the rectifier.

What do I need to get these out.?? I've tried with a hacksaw blade, but its too thin an area to get in to.

The thing is I'm worried about even riding to my local motorcycle repairs place, (ie with the dodgy rectifier encase of more damage).

The other option I have is to take it to my work, (we have a truck repair work shop on site), I could ask someone there. But again the risk of riding it.

Or should I just order the rectifier, fit it somewhere else temporarily on the bike, then ride it to garage and see if they can somehow remove the old one.

Ohh my MOT runs out on Thursday.

https://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b82/mondeokid/rectifier.jpg


Any help appreciated folks.
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I've a twin and a 4.

[finpos]

[kawakid]

Doesn't feel like rust holding it.

The bottom of the nuts (ie with the head are off)

Thus going through the rectifier, is just the thread.

The only other thing, could be the amount of rust just holding it.

I've still not decided what to do. Please read my post at the top.
____________________
I've a twin and a 4.

[finpos]

If those bolts have become so rusted that they have sheared off, then there may very well be enough rust in there to be just jamming it on. It's also unnecessarily costly and pretty bad practice to fasten two threaded parts together with a bolt. i.e. I very much doubt you have a threaded component (the rectifier) and captive nuts together.

If you don't feel confident about trying to remove the old one, I'd unplug the old one and loosen enough of the wiring loom from the frame so you can just cable tie the new one on. You can then get it safely to the MOT or to work. Careful you don't put it where it can be trapped by the swinging arm coming up when you sit on the bike.

I think regular and abundant soaking in penetrating fluid might help you here.

finpos.

[kawakid]

Thanks for that.

I guess it does make sense not to thread it, there's no point. Its
got to be rust.

I did spray it all with penetrating oil, but no joy.

Good point on the swing arm, I might have missed that.

Do rectifiers get hot? I'm guessing so by there shape. (ie like a computer heatsink)

--------------

I think i'll order the rectifier tomorrow from Wemoto. If I can't remove the old one, i'll temporary fix the new one until I can get the other removed.

Just a point on the heat of the rectifier and cable ties?

Thanks
____________________
I've a twin and a 4.

[finpos]

Keep at it with the penetrating fluid, if you're patient enough it can take days but it'll work in the end.

Spot an about the regulator acting as a heat sink - when it's working, it effectively dumping all the excess voltage (anything above 14.5V ish) as heat. In normal use, it'll just get warmish.

finpos.

[kawakid]

Thanks for all the help.
____________________
I've a twin and a 4.