unseizing a bolt!

[carlmalibu]

ARGH!

10 year old CB500, sheared off footrest, got replacement part, take rusted splitpin out, now cant get the bolt out. No threads, is supposed to just slip out, but 10 years of no movement has meant that no amount of hitting-with-hammer or applying firm pressure approach is working, and copious amounts of WD40 aren't helping either. And advice?
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Shine on, you crazy diamond
CB500, woop.

[tintin]

Soak in WD40 or other penetrating spray, you need to leave it for a few hours.

Try to apply any kind of movement, twisting, pushing, pulling and keep spraying the WD40.

If all else fails then you could try heating it up with a blow torch (try not to set everything on fire!), and application of a big hammer/lever will sometimes do it.

Can you post a picture of the offending part?
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The older I get the better I was

[Walloper]

As above.
You could also weld a nut to the stump.
Place a plain washer under the nut and fill to the top with weld.
Arcweld not gas.
Allow to cool and whip the stubborn b4stard out.

Or use the old gas axe.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[thx1138]

if it's anything like the basket case CG-125 I had.

Can and a bit of wd-40, time, tears, many belts with a rubber mallet and something to help it through.

[carlmalibu]

ARGHx2

ARGHARGHARGH

I hammered and hammered and the pin moved! (woo) but now it won't go through any further (its about 1cm out now) and try as I might with a pair of pliers and all my weight (a lot) I can't pull it out the other end

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._________\....../_____
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Hammer here

make any more sense?
____________________
Shine on, you crazy diamond
CB500, woop.

[thx1138]

drill it out then?

Drill through the screw/bolt effectively splitting it into two, and then retracting it?



or a pair of long handled mole grips, tight hold, and a bit of leverage?


Good old Haynes Manual. never tell you about all this shit!

[carlmalibu]

"Good old Haynes Manual. never tell you about all this shit! Laughing"

Too right!

it says :

"remove split pin, remove bar, replace footrest"

Oh aye.
____________________
Shine on, you crazy diamond
CB500, woop.

[st3v3]

try removing seized on nuts from a 11 yr old NS barrel... not fun, but for your case, whack it whi't hammer. and a pointy blunt instrument
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Roger wrote: Women don't get damp for clingy puppies. Get some better happy pills, hit the gym & buy a medallion the size of a dinner plate. Job done

[bob-a-job]

[DEN MONKEY]

try pissing on it..heard that works
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meh

[kwellsqpr1]

i dnt no wat it is ur on about lol but if its a bolt. put the rachet or spanner on it and put a bigger bar ontop of that for more leverage.
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keeping it rubber side down

[Walloper]

[phk6]

get a centre punch and a hammer

put the centre punch on the endge of the bolt (make sure its going in an anti clockwise direction) and give it a good blow with the hammer after being sprayed with wd40 it will get it lose enough to undo with an allen key
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Current .. 2008 BMW R 1200 GS Adventure ..
Before .. 2003 Yamaha Fazer 1000 .. 2004 Kawazaki Z1000 .. 2003 Suzuki Sv1000s .. 1999 zx6r Track Bike .. 1999 CB 500 Cup ..
/Phil

[MattEMulsion]

If you've moved it about a centimetre then give it a good dose of penetrating oil and whack it back in. Then have another go at whacking it out. Keep it moving inwards and outwards and it will eventually work itself loose enough to come all of the way out.

Remember though if you have knurled the end over where you have been hitting it, then you will need to either grind it smooth or file the edge flat so that it can pass through the bracket cleanly.

Once the cotter pin gets level with the first stage of the bracket it may be easier to use a punch to whack it all the way through than trying to pull it with a pair of pliers.
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Yamaha YZF-R6

[stooster]

try restoring 30odd year old scooters.....

your two best friends are wd40, xa300, contect spray or amy penetrating oil.....

and heat....heat heat heat.....heat it up and wack it or turn it...if it dont work after a while then cool and start again...

good stud extractors are torque (star) bits..drill undersize...heat up then use to remove....

youll get there and if all else fails be patient and drill out....then retap..make sure you go square....patience needed here mate

[ColdInsomnia]

On my bandit I've come across about a dozen bolts that refuse to move. It's mind-bendingly frustrating.

I've found that a good way to deal with rounded bolts if you're short on tools is just saw half of the top of the bolt / screw off with a junior hacksaw and use the flat edge as a surface to whallop with the old hammer + screwdriver combo. Should turn it slowly.
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Yamaha YB100 | Yamaha TZR125 | Yamaha XJ600S | Suzuki GSF600
"Our society is run by insane people for insane objectives. I think we're being run by maniacs for maniacal ends and I think I'm liable to be put away as insane for expressing that. That's what's insane about it."
John Lennon

[tintin]

This has been posted before but for those who haven't seen it:

HAYNES MANUAL - THE REAL MEANINGS

For those of us that have ever used a Haynes Manual (or Clymer or Chilton equivalents) in attempting home maintenance of a car or motorbike. These are the books aimed at those who want to fix their own vehicles and which keep qualified mechanics in paid employment putting things right afterwards. They are chock full of photos, diagrams and step-by-step instructions which are obvious if you are a fully qualified motor mechanic, but which are frighteningly sparse on detail ....

Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with molegrips (adjustable wrench) then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?

Haynes: Should remove easily.
Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: Remove small retaining clip.
Translation: Take off 15 years of stubborn crud, it's there somewhere.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scarey photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Locate ...
Translation: This photo of a hex nut is the only clue we're giving you.

Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size).

Haynes: Ease ...
Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.

Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly".

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!

Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it up?

Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).

Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and that your AA cover includes Home Start.

Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!

Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!!

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "bugger" repeatedly under your breath.

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.

Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder. Once that sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Locate securing bolt.
Translation: Remember that worrying noise when you drove along the A38 last summer? That's where you'll find the securing bolt.

Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Remove drum retaining pin.
Translation: Break every screwdriver in your box.

Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone use a hacksaw.
Translation #3: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with adjustable wrench then beat repeatedly with hammer.

Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to do!

Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain wrench or length of bicycle chain.
Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with a hammer.

Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
Translation: I know I've got a tube of Super Glue around here somewhere.

Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing upon a bottle of washing-up liquid (dish soap). Wipe some congealed washing up liquid from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease.

Haynes: See illustration for details
Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or variant model. The actual location of the unit is never given.

Haynes: Drain off all fluids before removing cap.
Translation: Visit bathroom, spit on ground, remove baseball cap in order to scratch head in perplexity.

Haynes: Top up fluids.
Translation: Drink 2 cans of beer and call out a mobile mechanic to undo the damage.
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The older I get the better I was