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banksy
Nova Slayer



Joined: 28 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: 14:09 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Warming up Reply with quote

okok so another question about my brand new honda cg Rolling Eyes

in the morning it wont start unless the choke is fully out (fair enough)
however unless im constantly holding the throttle open the engine will stall.. unless its warmed up. This can take about 5 minutes even with the choke out.
i feel like a right twat sitting there for 5 mins revving up... i dont mind it warming but having to hold it is awkward

is this normal?
ive heard you can increase the idiling speed but will this solve the problem?... and is it a good idea to attempt this myself?

ty
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st3v3
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PostPosted: 16:11 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

just find a big screw on your carb, and turn it until your happy it's not too lean/rich, and idles ok. it shouldn't, but four strokes essentially need to warm up a bit before use Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need the oil in the engine to warm up. The slowest way to do this is to leave the bike idling.

To warm up the oil, you need to compress it through the oil pump. Best way of doing this is to put the engine under load.

What I do is start the bike and as soon as it's settled, get on and ride away. About 100yds down the road, I switch the choke off. I take it easy for the first couple of miles until the engine is up to temperature. The engine in my KLE500 has done over 70k miles and I have never left it sat idling to warm up.

This may be a contraversial oppinion but as far as I'm concerned, the fastest way to get the oil up to working temperature is to ride the bike.
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teampots
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You need the oil in the engine to warm up. The slowest way to do this is to leave the bike idling.

To warm up the oil, you need to compress it through the oil pump. Best way of doing this is to put the engine under load.

What I do is start the bike and as soon as it's settled, get on and ride away. About 100yds down the road, I switch the choke off. I take it easy for the first couple of miles until the engine is up to temperature. The engine in my KLE500 has done over 70k miles and I have never left it sat idling to warm up.

This may be a contraversial oppinion but as far as I'm concerned, the fastest way to get the oil up to working temperature is to ride the bike.



agreed, this is the way i do it on my cbr 125
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bushido
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PostPosted: 16:55 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there

I also have a honda CG and have a similar problems (not that I call this a problem), My bike tends not to start first time from cold and generally takes a few attempts. ASfter she has started there are no problems and she runs great.
Someone with more experience about bikes than myself (which isnt hard as Im a complete newby) told me that the CG struggles to start first time because of the petrol shut off switch having been in the off position for a period of time

How accurate this is Im not to sure, But it may give you an insight into the issue.

Happy riding
Stuart
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banksy
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats just it though... she doesnt settle until about 5 mins of revving
ive tried increasing the idle speed n im just waiting for her to cool down
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thefallenange...
Crazy Courier



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PostPosted: 20:42 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

CG's are like this. Mine took a while to start from cold but i'd ride it pretty slowly to warm up. It's not it's going to go bang like a 2 stroke anyway.
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kwellsqpr1
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

on my mums cg its the same what i do is start it on choke. rev 4 a few seconds then put it to half hoke while im still revving then while im still revving take choke off. then keep reving and ride straght away but just keep it easy.
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ace_tweety
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PostPosted: 21:09 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do that with my yamaha sr.
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banksy
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea but when i ride away (with choke on.. havent tried without)
even after about 3 mins... it acts like its in 3rd gear and barely moves and judders about

... as soon as i throttle off coming up to a junction it stalls even though the bikes still moving
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banksy
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Jull
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a Honda XR125 which I believe is the same engine.

What I did was full choke to start, then once it's caught turn to half choke, put helmet, gloves etc on then turn choke off and ride away.

Always worked and never missed a beat! Thumbs Up
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colin1
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You need the oil in the engine to warm up. The slowest way to do this is to leave the bike idling.

To warm up the oil, you need to compress it through the oil pump. Best way of doing this is to put the engine under load.

What I do is start the bike and as soon as it's settled, get on and ride away. About 100yds down the road, I switch the choke off. I take it easy for the first couple of miles until the engine is up to temperature. The engine in my KLE500 has done over 70k miles and I have never left it sat idling to warm up.

This may be a contraversial oppinion but as far as I'm concerned, the fastest way to get the oil up to working temperature is to ride the bike.


i think the idea of warming it up with no load on is so that the oil will get where it should to protect the moving parts when you do put it under load.

If you put it under load straight away, not all the moving parts will be well oiled so you may increase wear to some degree.

Yes it may warm up quicker, but the purpsoe of warming the oil is so that it can protect the moving parts and if you have ridden it without warming it up first, some parts will be unprotected for a bit.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 06 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:


i think the idea of warming it up with no load on is so that the oil will get where it should to protect the moving parts when you do put it under load.

If you put it under load straight away, not all the moving parts will be well oiled so you may increase wear to some degree.


I suspect that the oil is where it is supposed to be within about two seconds of starting the bike, as long as it takes for the oil pressure warning light to go out. There is one hell of an oil pressure in there. At idle, my MZ was capable of firing engine oil a good four feet in the air at tickover out of the oil pump bleed hole (put it this way, there was oil on the clocks and the top of my head).

My GPZ once emptied a good 2 litres of oil on the ground in about a second when I blipped the throttle after having inadvertantly left an extra o-ring on the oil filter.

You've been watching too many castrol magnatech adverts (with the amusingly helpful property of sticking to the piston skirt if their animation is to be believed).
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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keyser soze
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 07 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
You've been watching too many castrol magnatech adverts (with the amusingly helpful property of sticking to the piston skirt if their animation is to be believed).



what! you mean they've be lying to us all these years. good grief who can you trust if you cant trust the guy on the telly?? Shocked Very Happy
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colin1
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PostPosted: 00:57 - 07 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
colin1 wrote:


i think the idea of warming it up with no load on is so that the oil will get where it should to protect the moving parts when you do put it under load.

If you put it under load straight away, not all the moving parts will be well oiled so you may increase wear to some degree.


I suspect that the oil is where it is supposed to be within about two seconds of starting the bike, as long as it takes for the oil pressure warning light to go out. There is one hell of an oil pressure in there. At idle, my MZ was capable of firing engine oil a good four feet in the air at tickover out of the oil pump bleed hole (put it this way, there was oil on the clocks and the top of my head).

My GPZ once emptied a good 2 litres of oil on the ground in about a second when I blipped the throttle after having inadvertantly left an extra o-ring on the oil filter.

You've been watching too many castrol magnatech adverts (with the amusingly helpful property of sticking to the piston skirt if their animation is to be believed).


so why do you think its generally suggested to warm the engine if its not to get the oil warm so its less viscous so it protects all the moving parts ?

and yeah i am thinking of a magnatec type scenario

I suspect that if a bike is used everyday, the oil is still in place to some extent, so i would think it wd me more important to warm an engine on idle if its been stood for a bit.

my tt600 is definitely a lot smoother when it has warmed up, and my rs125 ran better when warm too
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mattgirv
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PostPosted: 05:54 - 07 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually I believe the point of warming an engine up is so the metal can expand. Basically as the engine gets hotter, it expands and the oil flows through. Going nuts on the engine while it is cold has more chance of friction between said metal parts hence why you should warm it up.

Also hot oil and cold oil work pretty darn similar, especially under pressure. The only difference is really to do with the rate at which it flows.

By the way, it is a lot quicker to warm your engine just by riding it if possible. An engine under load will always warm up quicker than an engine simply idling.

Infact I will add to this that excessive idling is actually bad for your engine, and for the green folk, the environment. Laughing
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 09:50 - 07 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:

so why do you think its generally suggested to warm the engine if its not to get the oil warm so its less viscous so it protects all the moving parts ?


I have never actually seen it suggested that you warm up a 4-stroke engine at idle, I'm at a bit of a loss as to why people think you should. Certainly not seen any advice to that effect from the manufacturers. Have you?

It's one of those 'they' things. Someone will tell you that 'they' say you should do such and such but when pushed are unable to say who 'they' are. I believe 'they' are usually a bloke down the pub.

If it was important, I imagine it would have been mentioned in the owners manual.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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khoock
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 10:46 - 07 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

banksy wrote:
yea but when i ride away (with choke on.. havent tried without)
even after about 3 mins... it acts like its in 3rd gear and barely moves and judders about

... as soon as i throttle off coming up to a junction it stalls even though the bikes still moving


You cannot ride a CG with choke on for more than a minute or two. I did this the first time I rode it - the previous owner had left it on full choke and like a noob I didn't check. Riding on full choke it will stall, produce a lot of smoke and require a lot of revs (which will put off stalling but it will still stall nevertheless).

My startup sequence is similar to kwellsqpr1: Put on full choke, start up CG and moderate revs for 10 secs, then go to half choke and continue revving for another 10 secs, then turn off choke and stop revving. It will idle a quite low revs and feel like it will stall but the CG does idle at relatively low revs and it will be fine. I then put on the rest of my gear (helmet and gloves) and ride off. Never had a problem yet.
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c-m
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 07 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If my bike isn't warmed up you cannot ride it, simple as that it just stalls every time.

I generally use the choke to start it then open the throttle a little to increase the revs then let it idle for a minute. By the time I've got my lid/gloves on I can just about pull away slowly.
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notoriousb.e.n
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 08 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive got a brand new CG as well its the same here. i find if you give it full choke let it start, rev for about 30-45 secs, then knock it off and do the same on half, you should be good to go. also within a minute of riding it should be warmed up anyway, it shouldnt take much to get a new bike going properly anyway. and it shouldnt take many revs either to warm up, just a gentle nudge on the throttle just to coax her awake.
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colin1
Captain Safety



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PostPosted: 23:12 - 09 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

i googled "warm engine to"
and found loads of things suggesting its good to warm an engine before using

on everything from boats to helicopters

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=%22warm+engine+to%22&start=0&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official

but nothing that actually says why
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Last edited by colin1 on 00:04 - 10 May 2007; edited 1 time in total
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Kickstart
The Oracle



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PostPosted: 23:23 - 09 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The oil does need warming up, but I do the same as Stinkwheel.

It doesn't take long for oil to circulate in normal conditions (although well below zero it might take quite a while). Litterally a second or 2 (unless the filter is empty and the engine previously drained). However it takes a hell of a long time to get the oil fully up to temperature (probably 10 miles or so of normal use), far longer than it takes the engine to show full temperature.

Main reason to warm things up is so that the clearances are about right. Different metals expand at different rates, so are only going to have the appropriate clearances relative to each other within a certain temperature range.

Another issue with warming a bike up on choke at idle is that you are sticking a very rich mixture into the engine, and the petrol will do a good job of washing the oil from the cylinder bore, increasing wear.

In some ways 2 strokes are more resiliant than 4 strokes at being thrashed when cold. No valve gear or cams to get rapidly worn out, nor plane bearings that need high oil pressure. Rings getting caught in ports and cold seizures are problems that have only really been a major issue in the last 10~15 years.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:33 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Rings getting caught in ports and cold seizures are problems that have only really been a major issue in the last 10~15 years.


Showing your age now Laughing

The 250LC came out in 1980. That's 27 years ago. Probably the first of the really fussy 2-smokes. They had heat seizure problems for a long time before that but most bikes previous to the LC you could start and ride away on straight away (amidst coluds of blue smoke and a 4-stroking engine).
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Cigaro
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PostPosted: 10:59 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Re: Warming up Reply with quote

banksy wrote:
okok so another question about my brand new honda cg Rolling Eyes

in the morning it wont start unless the choke is fully out (fair enough)
however unless im constantly holding the throttle open the engine will stall.. unless its warmed up. This can take about 5 minutes even with the choke out.
i feel like a right twat sitting there for 5 mins revving up... i dont mind it warming but having to hold it is awkward

is this normal?
ive heard you can increase the idiling speed but will this solve the problem?... and is it a good idea to attempt this myself?

ty


My CG does that, and the bike I did the CBT on did the same (it would just about idle but if you revved it up and let go of the throttle too suddenly it'd die.) I think it's relatively normal, although I may be wrong.

Mind you, it's normal for me - when I learned to drive cars I had a few old bangers that were an art form to get going in the morning, especially in the cold Very Happy
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Stiffler
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 10 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think with pretty much any 4 stroke other than the little 125's your good to go straight away, as long as you take it easy and don't rev the nuts off it. But with the 4 125's I've ridden (in my short biking career) they all bogged down terribly, stalled, struggled if you set off imediately and were pretty much good to go with the choke off if you allowed them to idle warm up for 2 mins. Which I used to find easy enough to kill while I'm getting my buff, helmet, gloves on...

Now with a 400cc bike I start it up, let it warm up for about 20 seconds while I put my gloves on and it's good to go.

Tim
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