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salty21
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Joined: 08 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 28 May 2007    Post subject: running in Reply with quote

hi, just about to change my rings and was lookin around for running in times and came across this, does this procedure sound any good to you guys or is it a bit harsh Question


Unlike 4-stroke engines, the main components in the NSR engine (crank, con-rods, and pistons) all run on "needle" or "roller" bearings or "ball races". This means there is little or no "running-in" required after assembly. In fact, the only "running-in" that needs to be done, is to the piston rings. The NSR piston rings have a teflon style coating on their outer edge to aid lubrication on initial start-up after their first installation. Once these are bedded in, the motor is once again free to rev to its' limit!

The safest way to bed in the new components is to perform a series of "heat cycles". Our recommended procedure is as follows:

1. Start the motor on a paddock stand. constantly vary the throttle, but keep the revs below 5000rpm. Allow it to run up to normal operating temperature which will take a few minutes. Once at operating temperature, vary the revs between 5000 and 7000rpm for a further 5 minutes.

2. Stop the motor and allow it to cool fully. Allow at least 30 minutes for cooling down, but 1 hour is more desirable.

After the first heat cycle, check all the coolant hoses for leaks, and the coolant level in the expansion bottle and radiator is at the correct level.

3. Restart the motor, and ride the bike. Allow the motor to rev freely up to around 8000rpm but do not "labour" it, i.e. low rpm/wide throttle openings. Ride the bike for 15 minutes + warm-up time - probably 20 minutes in total.

4. Stop the motor and allow it to cool fully.

5. Again, run the motor to operating temperature. While riding the bike, allow the motor to rev freely to 10,000rpm, but again, use only small (less than half) throttle openings. Another 20 minute session should be more than adequate.

6. Stop the motor and allow it to cool fully.

Successfully carry out these three heat cycles, and you should feel confident enough to take the bike out and use it as Honda intended!

Congratulations! You've completed your engine overhaul!
____________________
04 NSR 125(sold) Sad ---- 03 CBR 600rr(sold)Sad Smile ----90 pan euro ST1100 'Shocked' ----02 CG 125 Smile
94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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Jamie S
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Joined: 28 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: 22:48 - 28 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just take it easy for a 100miles or so and you should be ok.
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salty21
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Joined: 08 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

i also heard if you just thrash the nuts off it on cheap oil for an hour or so it forms a better seal between rings and barrel, although it was an article on running in a new 4 stroke engine are the principles the same and would it be advised?
____________________
04 NSR 125(sold) Sad ---- 03 CBR 600rr(sold)Sad Smile ----90 pan euro ST1100 'Shocked' ----02 CG 125 Smile
94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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bish777
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Joined: 11 Nov 2004
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PostPosted: 00:48 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say no.

But do rev it to the redline now and again.

Its hard to desribe, but dont thrash it but dont go easy on it either. Make sure to use the full rev range, but dont linger at high rpm for too long as the motor can overheat and seize.

Do that for as mentioned previously, about 100 miles or so.
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DrJustice
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Joined: 04 Dec 2005
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PostPosted: 01:12 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
i also heard if you just thrash the nuts off it on cheap oil for an hour or so it forms a better seal between rings and barrel, although it was an article on running in a new 4 stroke engine are the principles the same and would it be advised?


Yeah I heard that aswell except for the cheap oil ,why cheap oil ?
They reckon a bike or what ever will be faster if its run in hard !
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salty21
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Joined: 08 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think what they meant by cheap oil is mineral oil because fully/semi synth would be too slippery for the rings to shape to the barrel properly
____________________
04 NSR 125(sold) Sad ---- 03 CBR 600rr(sold)Sad Smile ----90 pan euro ST1100 'Shocked' ----02 CG 125 Smile
94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

salty21 wrote:
i think what they meant by cheap oil is mineral oil because fully/semi synth would be too slippery for the rings to shape to the barrel properly


That only applies to four strokes.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F; Cheap project: CBR900RR FireBlade
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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salty21
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Joined: 08 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

so should i carry on with fully synth then?
____________________
04 NSR 125(sold) Sad ---- 03 CBR 600rr(sold)Sad Smile ----90 pan euro ST1100 'Shocked' ----02 CG 125 Smile
94 CB400 Super Four ---- 2000 VTR SP1 (sold) ---- 08 ninja p8f(sold, meh) ----05 CBR600rr Smile
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alains
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes 100 miles is plenty enough , just dont overtake 5500 rpm the first 20 then get up 500 rpm every 20 miles and fully synthetic oil is highly recommanded
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st3v3
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Joined: 16 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: 20:11 - 29 May 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did my NS recently, and just about finished successfully running it in I did:

replace rings.

bolt engine together, not forgetting all gaskets.

start bike, check ticks over fine and no leaks from anywhere.

may well be smokey at first, but this is fine. Then, when bike ticks over fine rev it to 2-3k and if it sounds ok go for a ride, now go slow for first few hundred yards allowing it to reach ok opertaing temp, but even when this happens and the bike is running sweet, DON'T take it over half it redline(mine is 11k, so no more that 5-ish K) although the odd(once or twice in the running in period) quick rev to 9-10k will be beneficial and do this(taking it to half redline) for about 3-4 weeks and after this, carefuly take it up further until it reaches it's optimum performance, but make sure the water topped up(unlike mine which nearly overheated when sprang a leak Sad )and I used mineral oil as I was told it 'seals' the rings and barrel closer together as it's thinner than synth, but I'm not an oil expert... either way it should be ok after this, and ready for normal use.

if anyone got that? Laughing

EDIT, didn't see ^that post^ Embarassed Laughing
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