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Exhaust Stud

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carl1990
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 27 May 2006
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Exhaust Stud Reply with quote

hey all...

just here with a mate who`s exhaust stud has snapped flush against the head...
ill get a picture if i can
basicly...

The stud on the right is fine , the left port stud has snapped

will i be able to drill it out, and put a bolt in...
my dad mentioned something called easy outs.... Confused

i have NO idea what these are..
drill bits?

Any help please..
Ill get a pic ASAP

oh n the bike is a piaggio Typhoon, the once that wouldnt start a few weeks ago...
but thats done

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Rookie
World Chat Champion



Joined: 09 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 19:44 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It will probably need helicoiling, not too expensive if you're getting it done by a garage, but apparently it's a complete git to do.
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steveh
World Chat Champion



Joined: 24 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 19:49 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill it out, and re tap all the shite out of it.

you could get a stud removal kit, we have one at work.

is there any thread atall? perhaps u can tack weld a nut on the end, and screw it out.
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carl1990
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 27 May 2006
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

steveh wrote:
Drill it out, and re tap all the shite out of it.

you could get a stud removal kit, we have one at work.

is there any thread atall? perhaps u can tack weld a nut on the end, and screw it out.


theres no thread...

the stud has snapped against the head..
the 1 is fine, the other you can see is just clean snapped flat...

im trying to get a picture, damn cameras not working

can someone fill me in on what easy outs are, my dad said something about them.
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cheekythomas
Crazy Courier



Joined: 06 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a form of reverse drill bit... basically as it screws into the stud, it trys to screw it out.

If its a typhoon 50, its not worth buying one for, barrels are only like £20... paying a garage to remove, clean and retap it will probably cost that. Wink
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Walloper
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Joined: 24 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 20:13 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Heat can make them as hard as fuck.
If standard drills do not look at it and you are able to get a grinder. Sharpen the Tungsten Carbide Tips of a Masonery Drill the 'TAPPING' size of the hole.
Mark the centre of the stud and carefully drill out the stud.
Do not go like the hammers of fuck with the drill nor push it like a mad man. The carbide will cut the stud like butter.

Get a set of taps and clean out the threads that are left.

As you drill the last little bit of bolt may loosen and run down the hole. If you notice this ten stop and try to dig the bits out.

Brake cleaner is good for washing out the debris as you go.

Wear eye protection when grinding/drilling.

Bastad of a job.
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BanditsHigh
Worse than a woman



Joined: 21 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

And if you try to use Eaziouts then be fricking careful ... they snap very easily ... and it would be extremely difficult if not impossible to drill them out!!

Good luck ... Barry
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carl1990
Two Stroke Sniffer



Joined: 27 May 2006
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 14 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Heat can make them as hard as fuck.
If standard drills do not look at it and you are able to get a grinder. Sharpen the Tungsten Carbide Tips of a Masonery Drill the 'TAPPING' size of the hole.
Mark the centre of the stud and carefully drill out the stud.
Do not go like the hammers of fuck with the drill nor push it like a mad man. The carbide will cut the stud like butter.

Get a set of taps and clean out the threads that are left.

As you drill the last little bit of bolt may loosen and run down the hole. If you notice this ten stop and try to dig the bits out.

Brake cleaner is good for washing out the debris as you go.

Wear eye protection when grinding/drilling.

Bastad of a job.


my dads just come in and drew a very complicated diagram lol
with pitch, root, maximum Diameter, Minimum diameter...
basically this weekend im going to get a small drill bit to mark it,
then get a masonry, as you said and drill it out..
my dad said you may get lucky with a masonry bit and lock the stud and undo it..

when i get it out, will i have thread in good condition, or will i have to insert a tap?

cheers for the help Thumbs Up
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Walloper
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Joined: 24 Feb 2005
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 15 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

carl1990 wrote:
Walloper wrote:
Heat can make them as hard as fuck.
If standard drills do not look at it and you are able to get a grinder. Sharpen the Tungsten Carbide Tips of a Masonery Drill the 'TAPPING' size of the hole.
Mark the centre of the stud and carefully drill out the stud.
Do not go like the hammers of fuck with the drill nor push it like a mad man. The carbide will cut the stud like butter.

Get a set of taps and clean out the threads that are left.

As you drill the last little bit of bolt may loosen and run down the hole. If you notice this ten stop and try to dig the bits out.

Brake cleaner is good for washing out the debris as you go.

Wear eye protection when grinding/drilling.

Bastad of a job.


my dads just come in and drew a very complicated diagram lol
with pitch, root, maximum Diameter, Minimum diameter...
basically this weekend im going to get a small drill bit to mark it,
then get a masonry, as you said and drill it out..
my dad said you may get lucky with a masonry bit and lock the stud and undo it..

when i get it out, will i have thread in good condition, or will i have to insert a tap?

cheers for the help Thumbs Up


It depends on the drilling out part.
If you make a nice job of it you might not even really need to tap it.
If you nick the threads badly then it's Helicoil time.
Helicoils are like Springs with the inside diameter like a bolt hole thread. You need to buy a kit tho.
The kit comes with it's very own tap which firts f all but the specidfic helicoil.
You then drill out the hole bigger and tap with the special tap.
Using the other special tool to insert the helicoil in the finished hole.
Then cut of the excess.
Thety are good for light load but complete and utter shite for anything worth holding.
New Barrel sounds about right. But practice drilling the broken bolt in the old barrel for future referance.

I hate motorbikes.... Evil or Very Mad
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addmanniw
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 18 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 19 Jun 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, hows this solution - been holding on my ER-5 for 6 months and costs £3.99 and takes 5 mins.


Basically, assuming you still have 3 exhaust studs, then just use exhaust repair putty! make sure the exhaust manifold is on tight and then surround the exhaust with broken stud with putty and overlap the edge of the exhaust/engine casing.

It holds firm, no fumes escape and when it needs to come off, it will usually come away cleanly if you wiggle the exhaust off or failing that, it chips away easily.

Plus, if it does go again, you just patch it with more putty!

Got bike through MOT with this expecting to get advisory on it and did not even get this! So even the Ministry like it!
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