Fazer 600 (00) Starting Issues.....help....

[Lewis88Carr]

Hi everybody, first poster here and need some help

Bought a 2000 Yamaha Fazer 600 3 months ago now and all has been well.

I fitted an after market alarm the week I got the bike, morning after alarm on, bike wouldn't start, new battey fitted and all fine until this week.

2 days ago I went to leave work and when pushed starter there was a chik chik chik sound under the seat and no life in the bike, got a push start, started easy and all was well for 2 days (starting fine 4 times).

Went to leave work today and no noise when pushing starter, bump started easy again, only rode half a mile, stopped for 5 minutes, and again chik chik chik, bump start again (getting good at these) and bike started easy.

Both times I've had trouble alarm was off for the day and has started fine when alarm on so I don't think that is the problem.

I fitted new spark plugs 2 weeks ago.

I used to leave lights on when parked up, then noticed a couple of times that the lights stayed on once key out (which shouldn't happen so I make sure I switch lights off now).

I am new to riding and motorbikes in genreal so was hoping for a bit of advice on things to check.

[J.M.]

I read somewhere that alarms use more power when off compared to when they're armed. I don't know the truth in this though as it seems backwards to me. :S

I would be checking that your charging system is working properly. Battery sounds flat.
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2004 R1 & 2018 XSR900

[Lewis88Carr]

Yeah seems somthing like that, like for some reason some of the time all the charge drops off, but not other times, loose connection causing leakage?

Will be doing checks in the haynes manual sunday so will see what comes of it.

cheers

[Walloper]

If it's an older bike the chances are the battery is on it's uppers, the charge system is weak or both.

Alarms use some power but day to day week to week not enough to be of any significance.

First buy a Multimeter form Maplins (for about a tenner) check the battery open cell voltage on a battery fully charged and in good condition: Disconnect the battery lead (one or the other) meter test leads between the battery posts you should read >12Volts (Ideally 13Volts)
Connect the battery again.
Start the engine and watch the meter as you slowly increase the engine RPM. the volts should increase to about 15volts as the RPM picks up. But not more than 17volts. If it get any higher then the regulator is fecked.

To check for something drawing current you will need an ammeter capable of measuring about 10Amps a cheap meter probably only goes up to 2amps so may not be able to show high current.

Disconnect the Positive lead from the battery.
Connect the meter between the battery positive post and the positive lead. This allows the current to flow through the meter which can read the current drawn from the battery.

With the ignition off there should be no current.
The alarm will draw some current which you will find in the book for the alarm.
Anything more than spec. will be something you have fooked up/connected to earth/ground


https://www.maplin.co.uk/domestic-multimeter-37279

If you have a bike you NEED one of these feckers. It sort of lets you see inside your bike's nervous system. You can tell if it's really clinically mad or just special needs.
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W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[0l0dom0l0]

Are you doing mostly short journeys?

The symptoms you describe are that of a flat battery, and I suspect the cheap alarm is the culprit.

The Fazers charging systems are known for their shiteness, ie they don't charge the battery at a high enough rate and as a result with a lot of draw on the system the battery will slowly start to loose it's charge.

Give the battery a charge before you do anything else.
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CBT Passed: 30/08/2009, Theory Passed: 31/08/2010, Mod 1 Passed: 6/9/2010, Mod 2 Passed: 13/09/2010. Restriction ended 13/09/2012.

Bikes: 2007 Derbi GPR 50, 1998 Yamaha Fazer 600 (written off), 2002 Yamaha Fazer 600, 1994 CBR 600F, 2003 Triumph Daytona 600, Kawasaki ZX6R J1.....Current: 2006 Yamaha FZ6, 1998 Suzuki TL1000R and a Honda VFR 400 NC30.

[simoncottrell]

Ignition on, dash lights show OK but then go off after 3 seconds. Starter won't operate, can't even hear solenoid going. Repeat attempts - does the same thing. Doing so before / after lights going out makes no difference. Adding jump leads makes no difference. Kill switch is set to run.

Any ideas ? a previous post mentioned checking the side stand/clutch switch but didn't say what exactly the process is, whether its replacing a part or simply making an adjustment?

[0l0dom0l0]