Repairing a punctured radiator

[loply]

Hi folks,

During the course of pop riveting a radiator bracket in place I somehow put a drill bit (don't ask...) through the radiator and popped a hole in one of the upper tubes.

The drill went through the tube in the "middle" not at the front edge, so the fins obscure it, and I believe it has pierced both top and bottom of the tube.

I'm on a budget here and don't mind what things look like... Can this be repaired DIY?

I was thinking about cutting away the fins at the relevant spot then trying some kind of liquid metal type bodge? Provided I don't block the whole passageway the functionality should remain?

Is there a standard tactic?

Any suggestions appreciated!
____________________
Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Ted]

How big is the hole?

Have you got a pic?

[alains]

if your rad is brass made , use a cupper nail soldered with tin , otherwise use a flat head screw with 2 component sealant
____________________
the worst day fishing is better than the best day working

[Walloper]

Depends on the exactr position and service the rad has seen. If miles old chances are the tubes are worn (inside and out) and won't like soldering much. If you can cut away the the small air fins around the hole and try a solder repair good. You will need a blow lamp or an old fashioned solering iron you heat up on a stove/gas ring as you will not transfer enough heat using a normal cheap electronics jobby. (You can get heavy electric ones too)
You may be better off cutting out the tube from the top and bottom tanks and sealing both slots in the tank. You will not miss one tube as you have over capacity anyway.

Easier than this and probably as good is JB Weld about 5 quid a go. Like aradite but takes 300 Deg + temp and can be drilled when set (at least 24hrs)

PM sickpup. He is a bit of a 'White Paki/Arthur Daley' and has 'sources' for such items.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[MattEMulsion]

Unless you are confident of being able to do a decent repair yourself, then I would advise you to get it done properly by a radiator specialist. Because if your repair fails whilst you are out riding then it will dump all of its water and probably cook the engine if you don't spot it in time. Then you will be looking at an even more costly repair to the engine than what it would have been to get the radiator sorted properly.
____________________
Yamaha YZF-R6

[loply]

The drill was a 3mm drill and it is impossible to see the hole due to the fins. The hole I presume to be in the "center" of the 20mm deep pipes, which are like 20mm x 2mm.

The rad is alu and must be about a gnats dick in thickness, but it isnt rotten or old (2004 Suzuki).

I believe what I am going to try, and advise me if you disagree, is this:

1) Cut away fins above and below the 3mm hole
2) Put a small nut above the hole, and one below
3) Squeeze the nuts hard together with pliers so that they squeeze the hole shut
4) Smother it in Liquid Metal

I believe the resultant blockage will not be substantial enough to impair performance majorly, and hopefully the crimping effect of the nuts will make the leaking area very small.

I'm unsure how I'll cut the fins away neatly though. How are they attatched to the tubes?
____________________
Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Walloper]

[loply]

Reckon Evostik Liquid Metal will do the same job as JB Weld? It sets into an almost rubbery compound, rather than rock hard like JB Weld.

I only ask as I don't actually have any JB Weld and Halfords don't seem to sell it (though they have similar stuff under other names).
____________________
Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Walloper]

[loply]

Well I tried to bond it using an aluminium foil bandage coated with Liquid Metal.

It seemed to work well - I used about a 1.5cm strip of it and wrapped it around the punctured tube. The Liquid Metal squirted out of the edges a little bit when I applied pressure.

I let it set and filled it - no leaks. I ran the engine - no leaks. But then I squeezed a radiator hose gently and it started spitting water.

I've filed it all down again and tried again using a bigger bandage and more liquid metal.

I get the impression this Liquid Metal stuff isn't grabbing the metal very well - I've keyed it really well but it just doesn't seem very "etchy". More like it wants to float on top.

I believe the aluminium foil may be inhibiting the setting reaction so I'm going to wait a long time before testing it again.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
____________________
Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[ZRX61]

Stop buggering about with various goops & bodges & just crimp that one tube flat for about an inch either side of the hole...
YOu could even cut it at the hole & roll it up a bit like a toothpaste tube.

[MattEMulsion]

I still think that unless you get a proper repair done by a professional then it is highly likely to cause you problems in the future. The things that you are trying at the minute are nothing short of bodges. Now unless you are practicing 'bangernomics' (running an old banger on next to no money), then you shouldn't be trying to bodge it - get it sorted properly. The last thing you want is for it to fail somewhere inconvenient on you in the future.
____________________
Yamaha YZF-R6

[Walloper]

You must ensure it is Skroopyolusly clean and dry.

Nail varnish remover, Thinners or lighter fluid will de-grease it.

Make sure you mix the stuff correctly. Uniform colour etc.

No reason why it shouldn't stick if cleaned.

Cut out the burst tube leaving 1/2" to nip and tuck then Glue it.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[loply]

If I just crimped the punctured tube, would this render the radiator useless? I always thought the water went through one, then the other... Not just through all at once?

Obviouslly I would be loosing 10% of the cooling capacity.

The Liquid Metal I have doesnt require mixing, its premixed and comes in a cartidge gun type tube.

I'll be testing it later so will let you know.

I'm on a budget so I have no quarms with repairing it, I don't see the need to spend £300 on a new one or £150 on a second hand one when this one can clearly be repaired!
____________________
Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Walloper]

[Pete.]

Cut the damaged tube with sharp scissors/shears. Stuff tissue into the two ends and then fill-up the ends with JB Weld (Or JB Kwik if you're in a hurry).

BTW the coolant flows through all the tubes in parallel, so losing one won't hurt.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[loply]

Won't the tissue dissolve and disappear into the engine? I'd be more tempted to just use JB weld on its own!

Unfortunately the second attempt at the repair didnt work either... The coolant is finding some impossible route through the liquid metal and out into the open.

I'm going to take it back off and attempt surgery on the tube with crimps and scissors as discussed.

Thanks for the help folks! Much appreciated.
____________________
Yamaha SZR660 Caution to the wind, the throttle pinned!

[Walloper]

Are you washing all the antifreeze out?
You will need to have it clean and dry.
Any liquid will seep into the repair before it has set through caterpillary action.

Best bodges are never rushed.
____________________
W-ireless A-rtificial L-ifeform L-imited to O-bservation P-eacekeeping and E-fficient R-epair

[Pete.]

Walloper's right, remove the rad, clean the area & get it nice and warm to evaporate any liquid inside. You'll need to find a way of keying the inside of the tubes too. JB should work, no reason why not you just have to prep it right.
____________________
a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good