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Recommend me a (push)bike

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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 18:27 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Recommend me a (push)bike Reply with quote

Hi guys,

Got the ride to work thing at work, and want to take advantage of it... My budget is about £800 +/- £100, and the bike will be kept indoors so a small ULock will do for the shops.

I want to get into offroading as well when my fitness levels improve, but I don't want a rear shock as I will be road riding a lot and I think I'll get better components for the money if I don't get a shock.

I've been looking at the Specialized Rockhopper:

https://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=70265

and the Kona Kula:

https://www.evanscycles.com/product.jsp?style=70187

Are these a good choice? I take it I'll need road tyres as well.

thanks guys

T
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nothing wrong with either, but they're top bikes for general use. You'd be pushed to tell the differnce between them and bikes half the price.

However, go for them if you've got the cash.

Look for 2006 bikes for a much better deal.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah what he said^^^^^ they're both full of lovelyness. If you're spending at a proper shop you might be able to get some road tyres in the deal....

Also have a look at come Cannondale bikes, some of the hardtails are cool. And they last FOR EVER.
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

cagiva gezzer wrote:
Look for 2006 bikes for a much better deal.


The 07 bikes are the cheap ones now, won't be many 2006 bikes left in non-freak sizes.

Toby, are you restricted to buying from one shop?
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

maurice wrote:
cagiva gezzer wrote:
Look for 2006 bikes for a much better deal.


The 07 bikes are the cheap ones now, won't be many 2006 bikes left in non-freak sizes.

Toby, are you restricted to buying from one shop?


Yep, Evans Cycles.

Need to figure out what gear I need and what brands are good and bad.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's no such thing as a bad brand anymore. Different bikes ride differently, as in some have shorter geometry. Best to sit on a few brands and see what feels ok.

Keep in mind that bars / stems are easily changed and give the bike a much nicer feel. OE bars never feel as nice as a set of nice eastons.

If you're buying from a shop you'll be able to get loads of bits thrown in for cheap as tyres / tubes generally are on 400% mark up.

Ask about maintenance schedules / cost for forks, as if you're not that good with spanners you'll need them booking in at least twice a year to keep them moving sweetly.

I'd buy cheaper and spend money on SPDs, kevlar bead tyres (ultra quick steering), 3+ pairs of cycling shorts, some wicking tops, camelback, compact tools.

No point having a nice bike with sore balls, poor feet positioning and clammy clothes.
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 20:28 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I must be living under a stone, but how much do bikes cost these days?

I think that my NHS Trust support the green transport bike thing and give money off if you use a bike instead of the car, but forking out x hundred pounds is just Shocked.
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yzf750r
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whosthedaddy wrote:
I must be living under a stone, but how much do bikes cost these days?

I think that my NHS Trust support the green transport bike thing and give money off if you use a bike instead of the car, but forking out x hundred pounds is just Shocked.


Exactly.... £90 jobby Halfords! Laughing

Not that I have one, havent had one since I was a kid and that was .... years ago! Laughing
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Whosthedaddy
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

yzf750r wrote:
Whosthedaddy wrote:
I must be living under a stone, but how much do bikes cost these days?

I think that my NHS Trust support the green transport bike thing and give money off if you use a bike instead of the car, but forking out x hundred pounds is just Shocked.


Exactly.... £90 jobby Halfords! Laughing

Not that I have one, havent had one since I was a kid and that was .... years ago! Laughing


Snap and at £175 I had a loan from my nan!
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colin1
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PostPosted: 21:22 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

id never spend £800 on a bicycle, but if i did, id get something second hand off ebay

i reckon they depreciate a lot so get more for your money second hand

i also reckon a road bike is better on the road, than a mountain bike
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Wafer_Thin_Ham
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

colin1 wrote:

i also reckon a road bike is better on the road, than a mountain bike


+1. Although you'd never know until you rode a road bike.

I moved from a Specialized Hardrock Pro-Comp to a Specialized Langster when I started cycling to work.

The hardrock is an awesome bike by the way, but it's more for trails than jumps and what not.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 21:49 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ride2Work is a pretty hefty discount you know...

It's 50% off, and then you pay the balance 0% interest over 12 months BEFORE your pay gets taxed...

Wouldn't dream of spending that much otherwise...
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Dom
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a rockhopper disc (not the pro one you linked) earlier this year and have loved it so far. The only slight issue I have with it is that the clearance of the pedals isn't great so on very rutted trails you have to think about that more than you might otherwise. It's a non-issue really though and if that's the worst thing I can say about it, it's doing pretty well.

For road stuff you'll be grateful for the lockable forks and the brakes are excellent. During the summer I had slicks fitted and, whilst it's never going to be as good as 100% focussed road bike, it is pretty competent, in part thanks to it's relative light weight for an MTB. One of the main reasons I opted for the rockhopper is that it's known for having a great frame so it's a good 'base' if you do want to go all out with the ridiculously trick kit at some point down the line.

I would say you want to be sure you will be getting into riding on terrain tougher than fire roads etc, because if you're not it's the smarter decision to get a road bike.

This is the model I have, but they only seem to have tiny sizes available.
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thing is, old bikes were good value for the money. They were steel (chro-moly) frames with rugged componets.

Now, everyone wants alu frames & suspension. This leaves very little money for componets and to actually build the frames right.

Anything below £350 is utter tat.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dom wrote:
I bought a rockhopper disc (not the pro one you linked) earlier this year and have loved it so far. The only slight issue I have with it is that the clearance of the pedals isn't great so on very rutted trails you have to think about that more than you might otherwise. It's a non-issue really though and if that's the worst thing I can say about it, it's doing pretty well.

For road stuff you'll be grateful for the lockable forks and the brakes are excellent. During the summer I had slicks fitted and, whilst it's never going to be as good as 100% focussed road bike, it is pretty competent, in part thanks to it's relative light weight for an MTB. One of the main reasons I opted for the rockhopper is that it's known for having a great frame so it's a good 'base' if you do want to go all out with the ridiculously trick kit at some point down the line.

I would say you want to be sure you will be getting into riding on terrain tougher than fire roads etc, because if you're not it's the smarter decision to get a road bike.

This is the model I have, but they only seem to have tiny sizes available.


Thanks for that mate, it's really helpful

What's the worst terrain you can take a road bike on?

Thanks,

T
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ram_doom
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PostPosted: 23:09 - 05 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go all old school, and buy a 2001 GT Zaskar frame, some pace or rockshox sid forks, the best set of rims and shimano drivetrain you can afford, along with some magura hydraulic rim brakes Razz

Cost you fek all, and you'd have a brilliant bike for cross country Wink
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olionel
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PostPosted: 00:20 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went to my grans and picked up my dads old bike, its a Raleigh from the 70's... brown frame.. really comfy seat... 3 gears.. and a good old bell Very Happy
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Azonicben
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PostPosted: 10:49 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Toby R wrote:
Dom wrote:
I bought a rockhopper disc (not the pro one you linked) earlier this year and have loved it so far. The only slight issue I have with it is that the clearance of the pedals isn't great so on very rutted trails you have to think about that more than you might otherwise. It's a non-issue really though and if that's the worst thing I can say about it, it's doing pretty well.

For road stuff you'll be grateful for the lockable forks and the brakes are excellent. During the summer I had slicks fitted and, whilst it's never going to be as good as 100% focussed road bike, it is pretty competent, in part thanks to it's relative light weight for an MTB. One of the main reasons I opted for the rockhopper is that it's known for having a great frame so it's a good 'base' if you do want to go all out with the ridiculously trick kit at some point down the line.

I would say you want to be sure you will be getting into riding on terrain tougher than fire roads etc, because if you're not it's the smarter decision to get a road bike.

This is the model I have, but they only seem to have tiny sizes available.


Thanks for that mate, it's really helpful

What's the worst terrain you can take a road bike on?

Thanks,

T


Some of the better road bikes can be crap on anything other than Smooth tarmac, but look at cyclocross bikes for the ideal comprimise.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 11:04 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think I'll go for the Rockhopper with Road Tyres Very Happy

T
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might not even need the road ones, I've ridden a mates 07 Rockhopper disc with the stock tyres - they're kevlar/folding as standard (so light), quite thin for an mtb these days and have quite low rolling resistance.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

maurice wrote:
You might not even need the road ones, I've ridden a mates 07 Rockhopper disc with the stock tyres - they're kevlar/folding as standard (so light), quite thin for an mtb these days and have quite low rolling resistance.


Nice, I'll give them a go then...

Anything else you think I'll need off of the top of your head?

Should only need lights really?

T
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

That bike has spd pedals, i.e. the ones where you have special shoes that clip into the pedal. It's a lot better when you get into cycling but for a n00b you're likely to have several embarrassing stand-still topple overs when you forget to unclip.

They do come with a plate so you can use trainers with them, but this is really an afterthought, designed for people demo-ing bikes outside the shop. They're really slippy with trainers.

You need to decide whether to buy a decent pair of flat pedals, (these can lacerate your shins if you slip off them, but very grippy so rarely happens), or go the spd route and buy a pair of spd-compatible shoes.
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Dom
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PostPosted: 12:08 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

maurice wrote:
You might not even need the road ones, I've ridden a mates 07 Rockhopper disc with the stock tyres - they're kevlar/folding as standard (so light), quite thin for an mtb these days and have quite low rolling resistance.


Imo the 30 quid on road tyres is very well spent if you're going to be on tarmac quite a bit. The stock tyres aren't bad on the road but there's still a significant improvement when you move to slicks. I used these during the summer and would recommend them. 100% slick in the middle but with some tread on the outside for cornering on dirt. They were capable on all but the more harsh trails, though do slide around a little on loose surfaces at speed. The one's I've linked to are the 'anti-puncture' version and cost a fiver more per tyre; a no brainer I'd say, as I have yet to get a puncture whilst they're on the bike.
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UnknownStuntm...
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PostPosted: 12:16 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah come on Maurice, it's a rite of passage to be splayed across the road at a set of traffic lights still clipped very firmly into the pedals....... Mr. Green
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EuropeanNC30R...
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 06 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I suppose it depends on the locality of where you're riding. There's a lot of semi-technical bridlepaths here that'd I'd be annoyed I couldn't ride down if I was passing one on a mtb with slicks.

Btw Toby, if you're doing a lot of Liverpool city riding involving locking the bike up and leaving it bear in mind your seat and wheels are quick release, you've got a 300 quid fork that can be removed with an allen key too.
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