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Gilera 50cc misfire

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Paivi
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PostPosted: 22:21 - 17 Dec 2007    Post subject: Gilera 50cc misfire Reply with quote

The son of a friend of mine is having probs with his Gilera 50cc.

Can anybody offer any suggestions as to what could be wrong with the scoot?

Quote:
My sons scooter has developed a misfire and power loss when the engine is warm. The scoot ran perfectly for a couple of weeks and then developed this problem. It has a sports exhaust fitted and a foam type air filter it has also been derestricted.
It is a Gilera 49cc with fuel injection. I have changed the plug and tried a standard air filter set up with no improvement.
Symptoms are, from cold the scoot whips off the mark and runs perfectly, however when it is warm it develops a misfire and loses power. It starts on the button and will idle and rev on the stand perfectly, seems to have problems when under load.

Do you think it is a fuelling or electrical problem breaking down under load. I do not believe it is a fatal problem as it runs ok at rest. Local scoot shop is scratching head.


Quote:
Could anyone PLEASE help with this issue. I have fitted a new ECU, coil, stator, original airbox ( it had a foam filter on it ) and the bloody thing still will not run right.
It starts ok, although it struggles to stay running from cold initially, however from start when cold it fires off the line. Within a couple of minutes its starts misfiring and losing power at full throttle. If you roll off the throttle it will run smoothly although, then you are only running at 70% capacity so cannot get it above 20-30mph.
I would appreciate any input, as its becoming a small bike money pit ( £400 so far )


Ta muchly!
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DOS
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 17 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest I don.t know much about scooters and will check tomorrow
for a manual for it.
Is the choke a manual one or is it auto.It could be that the choke is
sticking on partly.

Paddy.
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Phil_P
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PostPosted: 10:23 - 18 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it's running lean, which could be the result of the aftermarket exhaust. Obviously, being fuel injected it becomes more involved to sort out fuelling. If you can get hold of a standard exhaust to try it may be worthwhile. In the meantime, do a plug chop and have a look at the plug colour. Get the bike up to full chat under load, uphill is good, then hit the kill switch, and let the throttle shut. Pull over and whip the plug out and check the colour. It should be a nice pale brown colour.
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djrichieb
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 18 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some automatic scooters do not have a kill switch so if you can not use a kill switch just turn the key off.

If it idles and rev's ok on the stand could it not be the belt or rollers? Or variator?
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baldy
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PostPosted: 17:36 - 18 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

it probably runs fine on the choke as it is richening the mixture, i suspect that the sports exhaust is the problem.
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pax
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PostPosted: 14:49 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

baldy wrote:
it probably runs fine on the choke as it is richening the mixture, i suspect that the sports exhaust is the problem.


Hi, its my sons scooter, My issue is, the scooter ran perfectly for about 3 weeks then overnight developed this issue. The local dealer has replaced the ECU, stator and coil, I have also fitted an original airbox. Why would I have to replace all these things when the bike ran great intitially. Surely they could not all have failed at once! Talking to my son today I have discovered that the temp guage has stopped working and this happened when the scoot started playing up. Could this be related? ie: the ECU is getting the wrong info from the temp sensor so the fueling is staying on as if the bike was cold. This would seem reasonable as the scoot runs like a dream from cold and only starts playing up when warm. My local shop tells me the temp sensor for the guage is not related to the engine/ECU and will not have any bearing on how the ECU deals with the fuelling. HELP!!
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GeorgeCBR
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PostPosted: 16:20 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive heard that F.I scoots dont react to sports exhausts, or any other kind of tuning other than derestriction... It might be a good bet to source a standard exhaust... But this is just from what i've heard. When you fit a performance exhaust on a carbed bike, its common to up jet the carb to suit, now if the E.C.U hasnt been remapped to let more fuel in/change the mixture, this could well be your problem.
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pax
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PostPosted: 16:26 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

GeorgeCBR wrote:
Ive heard that F.I scoots dont react to sports exhausts, or any other kind of tuning other than derestriction... It might be a good bet to source a standard exhaust... But this is just from what i've heard. When you fit a performance exhaust on a carbed bike, its common to up jet the carb to suit, now if the E.C.U hasnt been remapped to let more fuel in/change the mixture, this could well be your problem.


I appreciate your advice, but how would it explain the fact that the scooter ran perfectly for 3 weeks prior to the fault developing. Also the guy I bought it from had run it like this for quite a while. Its possesed I tell you grrrrr!
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GeorgeCBR
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PostPosted: 16:27 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suppose i didnt take that in to account. That's me out of ideas anyway.
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pax
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

GeorgeCBR wrote:
Suppose i didnt take that in to account. That's me out of ideas anyway.


I really am grateful you took the time to reply and I have heard that these exhausts can cause all sorts of problems. I am going to put the old ECU back on and start again because after replacing all the major electrical items, I am convinced it is the info getting to the ECU rather thatn the ECU itself. It has to be to do with a sensor somewhere, hence it will run great when cold as fuelling is correct but not when warm as bke is running too rich................................... I think. Oh Dear!
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GeorgeCBR
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a problem, the F.I scoots seem to have no end of problems when people simply put bolt on's on, and completely forget about fuelling, hence my reply. Good luck with it all
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prawny1
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PostPosted: 18:41 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

often scooter rollers can wear leaving flatspots on them what this can do is stop the variator pulleys from returning to there rest/lowratio position properly and makes the scooter feel underpowered and run iffy (think trying to ride your manual bike in the higher gears all the time it will feel crap at low speeds then will pick up as road speed increases)

Being a 50 it may not have the power to accelerate at lower speeds with the pulleys in high ratio position
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Phil_P
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PostPosted: 20:00 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

The symptom of the dead temp gauge is quite interesting. If the problem with the gauge is with the sensor AND if the ecu uses the same sensor to derive it's engine temperature date, then your guess that it might be at the root of the problem is possibly valid. I would like to see a circuit diagram of the bike to try and figure out if this is a possibility.

The amount of fuel that the ecu tells the injectors to 'squirt' is certainly temperature dependent.
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it was a sensor issue surely the garage will have checked for that as being a Fi purejet engine, it has a fault code system so will be flashing a fault code at them as soon as they plugged the diagnostic box in.

It needs to be looked at by someone who knows the machines, as first checks before bolting any bits to the purejet engine is..

A=check for faultcodes on the ECU

B=check fuel pressure is 8.0Bar at tickover

C=check air pressure is at 5.5Bar at tickover

D=make sure the 2 figures stay approx 2.5Bar different as the rpms are altered.

E=do a compression test to make sure its not a issue with the piston, which reminds me, what oil are you using as the FI motor needs specific oil, not any old 2 stroke from halfords.

But in main reply to the temp gauge issue, then yes the signal from the temperature sender unit screwed into the head goes direct to the ECU at terminal 9. Without that the ECU has no way of knowing what temperature the bike is so will revert to a base setting which will make it run like a pig. So thats certainly the first thing to do... but the fact the dealer hasnt makes me think it needs to go somewhere better as they clearly dont know the system.

Assuming youve been using the right oil so the engine should be ok, the only other common fault on these engines is water emulsion issues in the fuel injector body, which is easy to see by taking it out and looking into the pressure regulator, if its clean all is good, if its full of milky substance then it needs cleaning. The air compressor is also a common problem if the diaphragm splits.


Last edited by cheekythomas on 21:24 - 21 Dec 2007; edited 1 time in total
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Phil_P
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PostPosted: 21:18 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where on a scoot will there be air at a pressure of eight bar? That's 100 psi! Atmospheric pressure is 1 bar (give or take a few millibars) and in the inlet manifold, the pressure will be LESS than 1 bar. 0.8 bar I could understand.
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 21:20 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

(i got the 8 and 5.5 wrong way round, now edited.... but 0.8bar pressure and the engine wouldnt run at all... wouldnt even fire)

Infront of the rear wheel running off the crankshaft is a compressor unit that pumps air into the fuel metering head at 5.5bar and increases with rpms.

(now added piccy from workshop manual Wink )


https://img176.imageshack.us/img176/5/51089190mq7.jpg
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Youve obviously not played with one of these beasts then...

Without getting into the major technical stuff, it basically has a fuel metering head with built in pressure regulator that keeps the fuel to air pressure within approx 2.5bar of each other. It uses a fuel injector that doesnt spray into the engine, just into a chamber that houses the air injector, which also fires and provides the engines air/fuel supply.

(imagine holding a airline blowing into a inlet manifold, and then mist some fuel into the air flow so that the air drags the fuel in with it, and thats basically the system in a crude form.)
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Phil_P
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah well, what do I know, even after reading that excerpt however, I'm completely baffled as to what that 8 bar of air pressure actually does!

I can only assume it is a crude form of supercharging.
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Last edited by Phil_P on 21:41 - 21 Dec 2007; edited 1 time in total
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

And i thought i could remember from the training course about the air hitting 8bar.... and here it is... it gets to about 8bar when switched off so its ready for the restart.

https://img138.imageshack.us/img138/176/44642146it9.jpg
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 21:42 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phil_P wrote:
Ah well, what do I know, even after reading that excerpt however, I'm completely baffled as to what that 8 bar of air pressure actually does!

I can only assume it is a crude form of supercharging.


The air pressure is used to force the fuel into the engine, and if the engine had no air it wouldnt run as combustion couldnt take place. The bike doesnt have a conventional inlet manifold.

Both its supply of air and fuel is via an injector... it has to be at a high pressure to keep up with the demand at high revs.. if the engine needs say 1/2 litre of air for 1rpm it needs to get that in there in the time scale allowed, hence the high pressures needed.

Do you get it now?

Think of a 2 stroke basic engine, with only an exhaust port and no inlet manifold or opening. Now drill a hole for a fuel injector to squirt fuel into the cylinder, then add another injector this time to put the air in... thats how this system works.

On a normal injection bike, the air is sucked in by the piston movement, and only the fuel is injected... this has both injected.
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Phil_P
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 21 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understand the principal now. seems like an awful lot of trouble to go to to do what atmospheric pressure does on most 'normally aspirated' bikes. Each to their own I suppose, no doubt it's sold loads of scoots. Razz
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 00:08 - 22 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was done to show how much the 2 stroke emissions could be controlled... and that there was no need to kill the 2stroke off.

Its a good system and used by a few companys now, but its costly to make, and to tool up for.
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davidlewtas16
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PostPosted: 01:56 - 23 Dec 2007    Post subject: my gilera runner sp 50 has a problem can you help Reply with quote

my runner has a problem where it keeps cutting out when i rev it can any of you help me Surprised
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cheekythomas
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PostPosted: 16:14 - 23 Dec 2007    Post subject: Reply with quote

As per your main post. More info is needed before any advise can be offered.

Age of machine, type of machine, type of fueling (carb or purejet), has it started all of a sudden or got worse, bike standard or had race exhausts etc fitted... give us some info and we will see what we think Wink
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