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Help with a radiator. (Resolved)

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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Help with a radiator. (Resolved) Reply with quote

Hello, I have a radiator that hasn't been used in a few years. It's turned on full and it doesn't work.

There's no heat at all on either end of the radiator or the pipes coming from the floor.

This is the radiator:

https://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6264/radiatorut0.jpg


On the left is the thermostat (Which i've taken off) Theres a little pin that moves up and down, I've googled and found that the pressure of the water should push the pin up letting water into the radiator, which it doesn't. So i've pulled it up.
Heres a pic of it:

https://img118.imageshack.us/img118/7560/leftdl5.jpg


On the right side of the radiator theres another valve, I played about with this on another radiator in the house and found that it regulates how hot the radiator can really get. It's screwed right out.

Pic:

https://img118.imageshack.us/img118/903/rightcn5.jpg



I've tried bleeding it, Water comes out, Doesn't seem to be any air coming out. I read there could be an air lock in the pipe so I should tap the pipe a lot... This didn't help.

Every radiator in the house works except this one.

Can anyone help? Thumbs Up


Last edited by Jamie. on 23:07 - 02 Jan 2008; edited 2 times in total
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

One is a flow control valve that you adjust to balance flow between the radiators the other the thremostaic looks gubbed now.
Make sure the heating is set to max and running.
Open the bleeder screw at the top of the rad one on each end or just one and allow any air trapped in the rad to escape.
The water may be hot when it does come out and contain inhibiter which will stain wood carpet kil kittens.
If you have air in the rad it will not permit water to flow through.

God luck
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Last edited by Walloper on 16:55 - 02 Jan 2008; edited 2 times in total
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LeeR
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PostPosted: 16:54 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it could do with being bled, there should be a bleed nipple somewhere on the radiator. Loosen the nipple until all the air has come out and only water is left, it helps to cover the nipple with a dish cloth or rag to do this. Though you can do this whilst the radiator is cold, it actually works better when the system is hot, but be careful not to scald yourself. Thumbs Up
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Last edited by LeeR on 16:59 - 02 Jan 2008; edited 1 time in total
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.diydata.com/problem/central_heating/bleed.php

PS In future before posting pics of your hovel on BCF tidy up a bit first... FFS... Razz
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LeeR
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
...PS In future before posting pics of your hovel on BCF tidy up a bit first... FFS... Razz


My youngest said "Dad why are there cables everywhere?"... Laughing
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Robby
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

My heater in my flat was stone cold - turned out that the boiler was knackered, and my heater was the last one on the circuit, so by the time the water got to it it had gone cold.

So try turning off the other radiators in the house and see if yours gets warm.
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Cillit-BANG
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the incoming pipe isn't even hot, then there is either an air lock down the pipeline or somethings knackered.

If when you bleed the radiator (when on) air is hissing out, or water is being forced out then at least you'll know if it is under pressure.
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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said I have already bled it and there was no air, But definetly pressure as it comes out with a fair amount of force.

I have turned the boiler right up and turned all the other radiators off. Been about 20 minutes and still nothing.

When I put my ear to the radiator I can hear water flowing and at times you can hear water flowing without having my ear against it.

I bled every radiator in the house and two had quite a lot of air in them, But still the radiator in question is cold!

Walloper wrote:
PS In future before posting pics of your hovel on BCF tidy up a bit first... FFS... Razz


I did move quite a lot of crap before taking the pic. Laughing
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:06 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may be possible that some phanny has closed the lock shield valve. You will get flow if you open to bleed but if this valve is closed you will get no flow in-out. It can be fitted to any end BTW.
The noise you hear could also just be transmission up the pipes from the parts of the system in use.
Have you got a heavy coat you can wear? Smile
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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
It may be possible that some phanny has closed the lock shield valve. You will get flow if you open to bleed but if this valve is closed you will get no flow in-out. It can be fitted to any end BTW.
The noise you hear could also just be transmission up the pipes from the parts of the system in use.
Have you got a heavy coat you can wear? Smile


Did you read my first post? Shocked
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Jamie- wrote:
Walloper wrote:
It may be possible that some phanny has closed the lock shield valve. You will get flow if you open to bleed but if this valve is closed you will get no flow in-out. It can be fitted to any end BTW.
The noise you hear could also just be transmission up the pipes from the parts of the system in use.
Have you got a heavy coat you can wear? Smile


Did you read my first post? Shocked


Well.... The pipes have been disconected.
There is a serious blockage.
Or the radiator is full of sludge.
Was the water you got out manky?
It is normal to be blackish but red means rust. The rad is made of steel which may have corroded during the time doing nothing. This will have allowed the rust to settle and not be flushed away by the hot water.
It's glaringly obvious I never read your 1st post. Embarassed
(But it doesn't mean I'm a bad person. Crying or Very sad )
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LeeR
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops... me too, he's bled it, soz. Embarassed
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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

The water was crystal clear, Some of the other radiators had black water and some were slightly murky.

I've just found out that my mum had tried to bleed it a few months ago and took the bleeder nut right out (Not knowing you're not supposed to) and water went everywhere, lots of it.
She's also certain the radiator worked before she bled it as the water that came out was very very hot.

So now i've found this out, It hasn't worked since all that water came out. Is the whole heating system in one big tank somewhere, Presumably the loft.. So losing water wouldn't make any difference to one radiator alone.

Anyone got anymore ideas since this new discovery?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Jamie- wrote:
The water was crystal clear, Some of the other radiators had black water and some were slightly murky.

I've just found out that my mum had tried to bleed it a few months ago and took the bleeder nut right out (Not knowing you're not supposed to) and water went everywhere, lots of it.
She's also certain the radiator worked before she bled it as the water that came out was very very hot.

So now i've found this out, It hasn't worked since all that water came out. Is the whole heating system in one big tank somewhere, Presumably the loft.. So losing water wouldn't make any difference to one radiator alone.

Anyone got anymore ideas since this new discovery?


You have an air lock.
You should have an inhibitor in the system too. BTW
The system is probably topped up from a wee tank in the loft. So any loss is automatically topped up via a ball cock.
Surg-estion------

Close the gate valve on the wee tank in the loft. (Test by pushing down the ball, and if no water skooshes into the tank then it's closed.)
bleed about a litre of water out the 'bastad' radiator. Close the bleeder.
Open the valve to the wee tank. It should top up the water lost by bleeding....
If so, you have established that you 'have' the radiator 'in' the circuit.
If not then it's blocked..... Sad
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Stevep
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have a thermostatic valve that has locked with dirt

Gently tap the valve with a hammer around the sides and the shock will eventiually free it also make sure the lock valve at the other end is fully open.
I normally charge up to £75 to do this but this one is free just remember tap it not hit it
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stevep wrote:
You have a thermostatic valve that has locked with dirt

Gently tap the valve with a hammer around the sides and the shock will eventiually free it also make sure the lock valve at the other end is fully open.
I normally charge up to £75 to do this but this one is free just remember tap it not hit it


You'll get hammered like I did for not reading his 1st post Laughing
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bonzo
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say youve pretty much done all you can do as a DIY'er unless you'd be up for draining/filling the system by yourself. It's not actually that difficult.

You've probably got a lot of crud inside you're system which is collecting near to the offending radiator. If you call a plumber in the will probably want to powerflush the system which is probably gonna be £200 for the day (and it will take most of the day).

Put a post up/search at DIY Doctor. There's quite a few qualified plumbers on there that post regularly and will help. I'm only an apprentice so im still learning Very Happy

https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/forums/index.php?sid=5c9723639e7d71683d7228160c1d0d9c
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Stevep
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PostPosted: 22:46 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Stevep wrote:
You have a thermostatic valve that has locked with dirt

Gently tap the valve with a hammer around the sides and the shock will eventiually free it also make sure the lock valve at the other end is fully open.
I normally charge up to £75 to do this but this one is free just remember tap it not hit it


You'll get hammered like I did for not reading his 1st post Laughing


The pin is capable of being moved by pliers but it still will not pull the washer inside the only way to get washer inside to move is to use the power of the pump with a few taps on the valve and the dirt that is jamming it will shift and flush away allowing a full flow and the rad to work You will know when it has freed as the pin becomes hard to push back down as the water pushes it up. Does the pin have any resistance when you try to push it down or does it go down with ease


Your mum got hot water out because when she took the bleed screw out the hot water will of come from the locksheild side this is normal to happen it is a partially blocked thermostatic valve you have and I have never known the shock treatment not to work.
What boiler do you have and has it got a pressure gauge on the front or is it a back boiler behind the fire
I am a Technician Plumber BTW
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Last edited by Stevep on 22:57 - 02 Jan 2008; edited 1 time in total
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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stevep wrote:
The pin is capable of being moved by pliers but it still will not pull the washer inside the only way to get washer inside to move is to use the power of the pump with a few taps on the valve and the dirt that is jamming it will shift and flush away allowing a full flow and the rad to work You will know when it has freed as the pin becomes hard to push back down as the water pushes it up. Does the pin have any resistance when you try to push it down or does it go down with ease


Your mum got hot water out because when she took the bleed screw out the hot water will of come from the locksheild side this is normal to happen it is a partially blocked thermostatic valve you have and I have never known the shock treatment not to work.
What boiler do you have and has it got a pressure gauge on the front or is it a back boiler behind the fire
I am a Technician Plumber BTW


Do I have permission to bum love you?

I was tapping it with a screwdriver before.

Read your post, Got the hammer, Whacked it a few times and almost burnt myself on the pipe!!

Thanks so much Steve! Karma for you!

Mr. Green
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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that it's sorted, All the lockshield valves in the house are fully open, I think someone told me once the house should be 'balanced' by them.. What does this mean.

Am I right in thinking the radiators nearer to the boiler should be almost closed and the ones further away should be open more?

Thanks again for your help. Thumbs Up

EDIT: Should the little pin be coming up on its own now when I push it down?
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Walloper
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PostPosted: 23:22 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
One is a flow control valve that you adjust to balance flow between the radiators the other the thremostaic looks gubbed now.
Make sure the heating is set to max and running.
Open the bleeder screw at the top of the rad one on each end or just one and allow any air trapped in the rad to escape.
The water may be hot when it does come out and contain inhibiter which will stain wood carpet kil kittens.
If you have air in the rad it will not permit water to flow through.

God luck


For one who duznae read posts I hit this one on the head in my first line.... Smile
We will let you freeze to death next time.
And have you put the Hoover away? Razz
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Jamie.
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walloper wrote:
Walloper wrote:
One is a flow control valve that you adjust to balance flow between the radiators the other the thremostaic looks gubbed now.
Make sure the heating is set to max and running.
Open the bleeder screw at the top of the rad one on each end or just one and allow any air trapped in the rad to escape.
The water may be hot when it does come out and contain inhibiter which will stain wood carpet kil kittens.
If you have air in the rad it will not permit water to flow through.

God luck


For one who duznae read posts I hit this one on the head in my first line.... Smile
We will let you freeze to death next time.
And have you put the Hoover away? Razz


There is no hover in the pics? lol
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pin should be pushed up by the water pressure.

I'd be interested in the answer to your other question though. I always just open the valve until the radiator starts warming up, starting at the nearest to the boiler / hot water tank.
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bonzo
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PostPosted: 23:56 - 02 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's pretty much the jist of it i think Ichy. It's just a case of restricting the flow to the radiators that are getting the hottest. Depending on the size of the property it shouldnt need much balancing at all.

Glad the problems been sorted though Thumbs Up Ive made a mental note of the hit with hammer technique Very Happy
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 03 Jan 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whats needed now is a 'guide to replacing radiator valve without flooding the house'
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