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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 00:51 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: About time i done it Reply with quote
Finally got my ass into gear and bought some oil. Castrol Power1 GPS 4T 10W-30

If the weather is ok, I'm gonna take the bike out for an hour, warm it up then do an oil change. i have the tools and there is a oil can i can put the old oil into.

Any tips?

Cheers
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SM.Morgan
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PostPosted: 01:19 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
replace the oil filter as well, do it cold (ever tried working on a hot engine?) and make sure you have somewhere you can legally put the oil. Thumbs Up
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 01:39 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sappenin morgan Very Happy

I heard that its better to change the oil while its warm so that the oil drains freely, and takes any crud/condensation with it.

And yeppers pal, there is a refuse dump that has an oil bin, and a few garages around here that i should imagine wouldnt mind me dumping a litre of oil in their dalek Very Happy
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iooi
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PostPosted: 07:13 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
No need for a hour, just 5 or 10 mins will be more than enough....

Just watch them hot bits.... Rolling Eyes
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alun111
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PostPosted: 07:36 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
The way I look at it is if the engine's cold (preferably left over night on it's centre stand if fitted) then all the oil's already in the sump (bottom of the engine), this also means that when you fill it with fresh oil you're going to get the level correct and not overfill.

What tends to happen for me if I run the engine first not all the oil drains (the engine's still coated in it up top) so I fill the to the full level with fresh oil and the next morning when all the oil's drained in to the sump it's overfull! Pisses me off!
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bugsy46
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PostPosted: 08:27 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Sorry but the way your looking at it is wrong

The reason you drain the oil hot is because the oil expands and becomes thinner meaning it drains more easily.

And your whole procedure is wrong aswell! You fill to the upper mark, run the bike, let it sit 2 minutes then refill to the max mark.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 10:10 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
You've bought the wrong oil as well... Isn't it 10w40 you need?
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
I don't know what the bike manufacturer recommends but 10w30 isn't going to be a big problem. Personally I use a 15w40 or a 20w40, but then again I don't go out when its -20c.
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Nb
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
bugsy46 wrote:
Sorry but the way your looking at it is wrong

The reason you drain the oil hot is because the oil expands and becomes thinner meaning it drains more easily.

And your whole procedure is wrong aswell! You fill to the upper mark, run the bike, let it sit 2 minutes then refill to the max mark.

Thats how i did mine this morning on my bike. And its how i did it on my previous bikes. Thumbs Up Made a bit of a mess draining the oil though..... Doh! Shifty
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have a centrifugal filter, and the workshop manual says:-
https://img122.imageshack.us/img122/7697/filtergn9.jpg

just give it a wipe?
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bugsy46
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yep thats what it says dont it!!!! I wouldnt bother doing that every oil change to be honest
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CaNsA
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
just went to do it, only to find the spanner i have is a mm to small dammit.
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alun111
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
bugsy46 wrote:
Sorry but the way your looking at it is wrong

The reason you drain the oil hot is because the oil expands and becomes thinner meaning it drains more easily.

And your whole procedure is wrong aswell! You fill to the upper mark, run the bike, let it sit 2 minutes then refill to the max mark.


It's not WRONG at all, people have different opinions. I've followed that procedure MANY times on my bandit 4 and after standing it always ended up overfull. That's because the engine needs a long time to stand to let all the oil drain in the sump.... it doesn't happen instantly. The amount of oil flung around the engine can take it from full to past the view of the sightglass when allowed to accumulate!
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iooi
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
alun111 wrote:
What tends to happen for me if I run the engine first not all the oil drains (the engine's still coated in it up top) so I fill the to the full level with fresh oil and the next morning when all the oil's drained in to the sump it's overfull! Pisses me off!


Simple answer to that one.

Don't fill it to the upper level. Thumbs Up

Personally warm up for 5 mins.
Drain and leave for a hour, tea break time Laughing
Then refill, to about halfway between levels, go for a run and check for leaks on return.
Leave till next day and check again. Top up if needed.
Filter change every other oil change.
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bugsy46
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
alun111 wrote:
bugsy46 wrote:
Sorry but the way your looking at it is wrong

The reason you drain the oil hot is because the oil expands and becomes thinner meaning it drains more easily.

And your whole procedure is wrong aswell! You fill to the upper mark, run the bike, let it sit 2 minutes then refill to the max mark.


It's not WRONG at all, people have different opinions. I've followed that procedure MANY times on my bandit 4 and after standing it always ended up overfull. That's because the engine needs a long time to stand to let all the oil drain in the sump.... it doesn't happen instantly. The amount of oil flung around the engine can take it from full to past the view of the sightglass when allowed to accumulate!


Oh ok. Its not an opinion mate its a fact. And no it doesnt take a long time for the oil to drain into the sump what ever gave you that idea!? Its a fact that thinner oil drains out easier and quicker than cold oil

But anyway, il pass your theory on to the technical trainers down at honda next time Im there so maybe they can re script the workshop manuals for us and future technicians
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 13 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Warm up the oil? Its not only Honda that suggest it, Yamaha and Kawasaki have the same weird idea. Feck me, I just checked and Ford, VW, and even Bentley have the same lies in their service manuals! Misleading bastards!!! I bet its so they can charge extra for the time it takes to warm up, absolute scum. No wonder the price of oil is through the roof. Leaving bits hidden in the top of the engine just to make you buy more!!!!


Anyway, back to reality, I always thought it was common knowledge that you should warm the oil up first before draining it? According to the Nazi run Yamaha, it takes just 5 minutes for the vast majority of the oil to reach the sump no matter how far flung it is. Despite them being snivelling toadies of the fascist state I somehow struggle to understand why they may be making it up?

Unless.......
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iooi
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PostPosted: 05:18 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ichy wrote:
Misleading bastards!!! I bet its so they can charge extra for the time it takes to warm up, absolute scum.Unless.......


Na the real reason is so they can use the we need to warm it up as a excuse to send someone out for the butties Wink
Oh and off cours it all adds to the hourly rate charged Laughing
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alun111
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PostPosted: 06:27 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
bugsy46 wrote:

Oh ok. Its not an opinion mate its a fact. And no it doesnt take a long time for the oil to drain into the sump what ever gave you that idea!? Its a fact that thinner oil drains out easier and quicker than cold oil

But anyway, il pass your theory on to the technical trainers down at honda next time Im there so maybe they can re script the workshop manuals for us and future technicians


Yes it does take a long time for ALL of the oil to drain in the sump. For the most accurate oil level it's always best to leave the bike on it's centre stand overnight so that all of the oil that was flung around the engine when you just rode it has then drained in to the sump - Hence the reason HONDA manuals say to check your oil everyday before you start riding.

Yes, I agree that it is fact that thinner oil drains out easier and quicker than cold oil - I wasn't disputing that.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
alun111 wrote:
bugsy46 wrote:

Oh ok. Its not an opinion mate its a fact. And no it doesnt take a long time for the oil to drain into the sump what ever gave you that idea!? Its a fact that thinner oil drains out easier and quicker than cold oil

But anyway, il pass your theory on to the technical trainers down at honda next time Im there so maybe they can re script the workshop manuals for us and future technicians


Yes it does take a long time for ALL of the oil to drain in the sump. For the most accurate oil level it's always best to leave the bike on it's centre stand overnight so that all of the oil that was flung around the engine when you just rode it has then drained in to the sump - Hence the reason HONDA manuals say to check your oil everyday before you start riding.

Yes, I agree that it is fact that thinner oil drains out easier and quicker than cold oil - I wasn't disputing that.


I might be wrong but don't most bike manufacturers say to run the bike up to operating temperature, and then allow to cool for several minutes before taking a reading? Rather than letting stand overnight.
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Ichy
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Completely right Toby. As I mentioned in my ramble, Yahama suggest 5 minutes between engine off to taking a reading.
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alun111
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PostPosted: 14:20 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, but this means that not ALL the oil has drained in to the sump and therefore after it's stood for a proper length of time all the drips from the top of the engine have accumulated and (certainly for me on my old bike) brought the level over full.
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
alun111 wrote:
Yes, but this means that not ALL the oil has drained in to the sump and therefore after it's stood for a proper length of time all the drips from the top of the engine have accumulated and (certainly for me on my old bike) brought the level over full.


This is probably WHY they dont say just leave it overnight, the residual oil that gets left for that long probably doesn't 'count' towards the maximum level anyway.

T
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veeeffarr
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
alun111 wrote:
Maybe, maybe not. I'm just expressing my opinion and experience on the matter and that cunt up there told me I'm wrong.


Don't know, but one reason for not counting the stuff that drains overnight is that it's not lubricating anything when it's stuck to the side of the casing is it? Razz

Like if you had a measuring jug of treacle, with 500ml in, when you pour it all out there's always gonna be stuff that runs down the sides, so you probably only pour out about 450ml...

T
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bugsy46
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PostPosted: 17:44 - 14 Apr 2008    Post subject: Reply with quote
alun111 wrote:
Yes, but this means that not ALL the oil has drained in to the sump and therefore after it's stood for a proper length of time all the drips from the top of the engine have accumulated and (certainly for me on my old bike) brought the level over full.


You check the oil level when its been run? So why would you check the oil level after a long length of time? Oh sorry do you ride around engine off in neutral with someone pushing you from behind?! What do you think dealerships do when they get bikes in? Leave them overnight before they work on them? And by the way, Im not a cunt, the only cunts are punters like you who cant perform simple bike maintenance.
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