Design something better?

[Itchy]

I mean exhausts and how they attach , surely somebody in the engineering world can design something better than the studs and nuts that are used on many bikes, I mean if Norman Hossack and various engineering firms in the 80s and 90s can out do the big Japanese 4, surely there must be a better way of attaching an exhaust to a cylinder head?.

I was > < from buying a front end damaged CBR600 (I figured it would be a £400 repair its not listed for insurance either and he wants £500 for it) but then I found out its downpipes are damaged which means more nightmarish stud and nut removal (recently did it on my CBR), which means its a £600 repair....

Which put me right off....

So come on engineers and clever folks surely British ingenunity can design something better, the only thought I had was one of those glass jars with a spring type system so you can hasp it closed sort of.


Though I'm currently considering putting a BROS400 swing arm on the front of the NTV as sort of a cheapo method to put a hossack based from end on the NTV.

Any thoughts?

Ta
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[Kickstart]

Hi

There have been other ways. Plenty of older bikes had the exhaust port threaded, and then the whole coller screwed in to hold the pipe in place. Great until someone screws that thread up.

However unlikely to happen as modern bikes are pretty disposable.

If it uses studs and nuts then the easiest thing to use is probably a nut splitter. And then choose more suitable materials for the replacement nuts.

All the best

Keith
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[the grim reaper]

AS Keith hinted at, it's not the choice of a nut and thread that is the problem, more the choice of materials that make up that stud. If they used titanium fasteners then there wouldn't be the issue but titanium costs money and bikes are built to a budget.

The best way to save the ball ache is to buy a bike and replace the studs as soon as you buy it, that way any removal later will be far easier.

Cheers

Grim
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[stinkwheel]

They in all likelyhood just need to use bigger studs which wont snap as easily.

Or there is the whole sprung expansion collar idea.

Of they should fit them using brass nuts which are seize resistant and in any case should strip before the stud shears.

What it really wants is a removable/replaceable manifold that bolts onto the front of the head. If this was bolted to a proper facing with a copper or aluminium gasket, the threads wouldn't be able to corrode. The headers would then attach to the manifold using studs and collets in the normal way.

I'd go so far as to suggest bolting said manifold on using recessed M6 socket head cap-screws with a screw in M8 'cap' over the top like they do with honda brake calliper pins. Stops the recess and socket head getting full of yak. The cap is easily drilled out if it becomes seized revealing the pristine bolt underneath.

If you sheared a stud, whip off the manifold and either replace it or drill out the stud in a pillar drill. Piece of piss.

EDIT:
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