Scottoiler fitment to SV

[Kris]

Part one

Short story?

I fitted a Scottoiler a few weeks ago and took pics whilst I did it. After around 1500 miles I'm very impressed!

Long story?

I do a fair few commuting miles and my long-term plan for the Bandit I was previously using was to fit a Scottoiler kit as soon as I could be arsed. Firstly I was sick and tired of having to oil the chain (admittedly made easier by the centre stand) with my trusty paintbrush and pot of old oil - and secondly I was pretty impressed with the feedback of people who had them. I've always been one to keep a keen eye on chain tension and condition (I guess that's my 'thang' ) so was a bit sceptical of trusting a device to do the same job properly. The initial outlay of £60 and the horror stories of oil being dumped on the tyre meant that I left it as a wish-list item and never bothered. I must have ummed 'n' ahhd a dozen times in Hein Gericke. I think they began to suspect I had issues...

Anyway the Bandit got smacked and I treated myself to an SV1000N (the nekkid one). It soon dawned on me that oiling the chain on these was not going to be as easy as on the Bandito. No centre stand and an exhaust that runs very close to the chain run means that I repeatedly burned my hands. Grrrr. (I always oil the chain after a journey - much better for it )

So that was it; I'd melted my palm to the exhaust for the last time. A trip to Hein Gericke later and the box was proudly sat in the garage duly awaiting it's maiden voyage.

A few weeks later (alright! I'm a slacker ) came the day to fit it. I'd read up a few fitting guides from other SV owners so duly got the spanners out.

The first job is to lay out the contents and read all teh paperwork. I was quite impressed with the sheer variety of fittings and connection parts provided considering you will probably use just one combination unless swapping the system to a different bike later. Next I cleaned the chain, swingarm and other areas where I'd be connecting parts to. It's a good idea to plan out the routing and connections before starting.

Positioning the remote oil reservoir (RMV) is next up. I've seen many a bike with this fitted on the pillion pegs or under a side panel but I chose to use the rubber clamp and bolt combination, fixing to the rear subframe under the pillion seat. Not only is this conveniently hidden from sight but is easily accessible for filling and a hole of the correct diameter is already provided by Suzuki. They must have known... When fitting the RMV there are a few rules. It must be between horizontal and vertical with the oil output never being higher than the rest of the main body. Also there ideally should be a head of pressure of 12" between RMV level and the level of the applicator by the sprocket. Happily my chosen postion was suitable. It must be said that with such a large supply of fitting parts my choice was entirely up to me; I would assume it would be a doddle to fit to any bike.

Next on the agenda was the positioning of the bracket on which the oil feed pipe is held up to the sprocket. An assortment of connectors is provided, some with multiple holes, some with extra brackets for single-sided swingarms etc. The SV1000's swingarm is of the conventional type so I chose to use the mounting bracket which uses the paddock stand bobbings to hold it in place. I had to cut off a larger pice of the bracket to get it to fit tight against the swingarm, although this was very simple and explained in the diagram. The bracket has a curved and which the tubing sits in, held in place with a jubilee clip provided.
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NSR125RR - ZXR750H1 - ZX9R E1 - GSF600S - GSF600SK3 - VFR400-NC30 - SV1000N - ST1100-R - CBR900RR-R - GSF1200SK5 - GSF600SK1 - VFR1200FA - GSXR1000K2 - ZZR1400 D8F
www.prisonplanet.com

[Kris]

Part two

To this newly positioned RMV we must fit a few pices of tubing. (Worth noting that you'll probably need to get a good grip of the RMV again so don't bolt it down in final position just yet. Leave it loose so you can fiddle with the next steps).

The Scottoiler works with a connection to the carb or fuel injector vacuum take-off point. This is the brass connector that mechanics connect to when balancing carbs etc. It's a constant vacuum supply that works when the engine is running. The Scottoiler taps into this by means of thin tubing, which then opens a valve in the RMV which in turn allows oil to flow to the sprocket. This rate of flow is variable by adjusting the collar at the end of the RMV itself. (You can make out the numbers 1-9 on it in the pics).

So, next job is connecting the thin black tubing to the end of the RMV. It slots inside the existing rubber hosing on the end, providing an air-tight connection.

Also connecting to the RMV is the oil delivery tubing, which is the larger diameter clear tubing provided. one end of this slips over the brass end on the RMV itself. It's a tight fit but will go on.

The last connection is the filler cap / breather hose. This is the piece supplied with the rubber bung at one end, and a clear tubing and filter attached. This sits in the filler hole on the side (facing upwards ) to keep the oil in, plus acting as an overflow system for the RMV. This can go on temporarily now.

Right, by now you've earnt a cuppa but there's no time for that now so back to work.

Now it's time to attach the black thin tubing to the carb / fuel injector vacuum take-off. Luckily for me the SV uses fuel injection with standard brass fittings so a black connector slots on top in place of the original bung. Other bikes that will require either seperate fixings or cutting into rubber hoses are catered for with a large selection of assorted bits. Before connecting the vacuum supply up, route the black tubing discreetly along the frame ect using the cable ties supplied. The neater the job the better. Once this is done the connection can be finalised.

The next connection is the oil delivery tubing to the rear sprocket bracket. This is the fiddly and tricky part that requires careful planning. The idea is to route the clear plastic tubing down from the RMV, discreetly to the sprocket itself, with adequate slack in the tubing to allow for suspension movement. Most people run the tubing under the rear side panels. down near the shock and along the underside of the swingarm iteslf. Fixing the tubing to the swingarm is made possible with the superglue and plastic tubing brackets provided. I decided against this route, instead preffering to route the tubing down past the battery, down the side of the pillion footrests and running along the top of the chainguard. From here it it bends down through 90deg near the spindle bolt, curving round back to the bracket. The last 6 inches of the delivery tubing is sheathed in a harder plastic with metal inner, to allow for bending into final position and permenant fixing. I used a drill to drill small holes in the top of the chainguard for cable ties to loop through for fixing the tubing whilst using more cable ties to hold the tubing close to the spindle and away from any exhaust movement.
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NSR125RR - ZXR750H1 - ZX9R E1 - GSF600S - GSF600SK3 - VFR400-NC30 - SV1000N - ST1100-R - CBR900RR-R - GSF1200SK5 - GSF600SK1 - VFR1200FA - GSXR1000K2 - ZZR1400 D8F
www.prisonplanet.com

[Kris]

Part three

Okay well that's the hard work done!

The last few steps are tidying up the tubing routing and checking all the connections over. Only tighten down the final parts once you're sure the correct slack is allowed and that no parts are rubbing.

The last job of all is to prime the RMV itself and set up flow rate.

Priming is easy. First remove the filler bung/ breather pipe. It'll also be a good idea at this point to place a rag under the rear sprocket to catch the drops. I found this out the hard way! Set the low rate adjuster (collar) to a setting between 1 and 9.

Next, Invert the Scottoil refill bottle with clear dispensing tubing attached and put the end into the filler hole on the RMV. Squeeze hard and let the unit fill with oil.

The next bit is the tricky bit. In essence you are 'bleeding' the system of air. Refit the rubber bung but disconnect the breather tubing end from the connector. You will notice a link piece. To this attach the Scottoil bottle tubing. Set the RMV to 'Prime' which is past setting No.9 on the flow rate collar. Hold teh Scottoil bottle upright and squeeze hard. Hold the bottle like this for approximately 2 minutes. Mine took a little longer but eventually all the clear tubing will fill with the Scottoil. Keep firm pressure on the bottle until there is no longer any bubbles in the tubing. Reset the collar to a flow rate of 4 or 5 and refit the bung / breather tubing.

Start the bike and check the oil flow to the sprocket. Ideally you're looking for a base setting of around two drops of oil dispensed per minute. Use the RMV flow rate adjuster to increase or decrease the flow depending on preference. Settings vary between RMV units. (Mine is best on 7)

And there we are, all done!
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NSR125RR - ZXR750H1 - ZX9R E1 - GSF600S - GSF600SK3 - VFR400-NC30 - SV1000N - ST1100-R - CBR900RR-R - GSF1200SK5 - GSF600SK1 - VFR1200FA - GSXR1000K2 - ZZR1400 D8F
www.prisonplanet.com

[ms51ves3]

I read the whole of part one not realising there was 2 other parts. There's a lot to read.

I just scanned through and from all the I get the message that you are happy with it